cooldrew22

i agree with checking your distributor first however a problem i had recently which sounds similar to yours in which the car just lost power one day and wouldn't restart. theres a body harness plug that is up under the driver side frame rail next to the gas tank in the far back. this plug started to separate on me and the computer would have intermittent connection with the fuel pump. might be worth checking only takes 2 minutes just gotta get your hand up there with a flashlight and make sure that plug is clean and connected.

the ground for the coil wire is controlled by the ECU. locate the wire that runs from the ECU plug to the relay, then do a Voltage drop test from the pin at the ECU to the #2 side of the coil i believe. what your looking for at key on is the voltage to go from 12.6 (battery) drop down to under 1v this will show that the ECU is correctly grounding the relay coil for that 5 second priming period.

update: found the issue! after messing around with everything and checking the ECU and relay and the pump harness the truck started up. i decided to start messing around with the harness in the tailgate section trying to get the truck to turn off and it did! so i started it up again and kept messing with wires until it shut off until i was able to narrow down what section of the harness had the problem. Turns out there was a harness plug that was becoming slightly disconnected and two wires that were rubbing on a section of the frame, so that's fixed and she runs great now!

yeah i realized that a little while after i wrote that haha and just the pump, but i did check the wire, at the pump terminal and it was receiving a clean 12V. and the ground circuit was dropping a normal 0.03V so that's within good limits. but ya at this point im thinking it's gotta be a bad ground or loose wire in a strange section that's moving around when i drive

yeah i checked it with a known good relay and also confirmed that i was getting 12 volts at the coil for the relay. also, the random time that it did start and run confirms that technically the circuit is all good and intact since it did in fact run fine for a few days, i dono if relay's often intermittently fail. I've been skimming through the FSM for it and also checked with another source and im gonna go ahead and check Crank Sensor and Cam Sensor and then confirm my ECCS relay is functioning and verify that the ECU is supplying ground for the pump relay

Alright, so I have a 1992 Pathfinder SE, 5 speed, RWD. first thing i did when i bought the truck was do all preventative maintenance: new starter new battery distributor cap and rotor spark plugs all fluids fuel filter all belts checked my grounds and battery terminals. the other night (about a month ago) came home and the truck wouldn't start, crank but no start. seemed like fuel issue so pulled the pump and had a friend turn the key, no prime. So, tapped on the pump while cranking and it came to life. so i figured i have a failing pump, well drove it for another few weeks no problem then it died on me doing 70mph on the highway, just shut off and wouldn't start. so i finally bought a pump. installed the new pump and nothing, no prime, no start, just cranking. checked the wiring and it's receiving power at the pump and the relay is good. WHILE i was checking codes on ecu i heard the pump prime randomly, decided to try and start it and she started right up. no idea what i did but whatever it ran. drove it all week and today, pulling out of a gas station shifting into 3rd gear it just shuts off, so i popped it into second but it wont start up again even pop starting it. now back to cranking with no start and i swear im not getting fuel but i dont know why the fuel pump is not coming on. i checked and cleaned all my grounds, it has a full tank of gas, reset the ecu, checked my ignition relays, nothing. anyone have any ideas? or ever seen a car (5speed none the less) just turn off while driving? any ideas at all, Thanks in advance!

What were the results of the new O2? If your having issues on 2,4,6 I would tend to think you have a bad bank 2 sensor 1 O2. If you can check it with a ranging multimeter you should see a sine wave of it quickly fluctuating between 200mv sweeping up to 850mv and back, anything 50+ mv outside that range at all would indicate a bad or failing sensor.

I work at a company that primarily builds and deals with Skylines, and I would definitely say the RB25 would be a good swap candidate but Im not sure about the AWD functionality. If the half shafts for a pathy are similar in length I think that it COULD work but the ATTESSA system is an electronically controlled AWD function and only directs power to the front wheels when it senses slip in the rear so 90% of the time its RWD. I believe an RB20 oil pan could be fit onto an RB25 if you wanted to keep it simple and do only RWD which is what I would do IMO. The engine mounts im not too sure about but they're fairly generic to VG series motors and easily modifiable so theres a solid chance they'd drop right in, and the RB series runs a clutch fan so you should be good there. just remember though that while the RB25 is turbo'd it's technically a whole half liter smaller than a VG30 so you'll loose a good amount of low end power. hope some of this was helpful, lemme know if you have anymore questions about RB series anything.

have you checked condition of your MAF? TPS? i had a blonde moment a while back with another car that i forgot to plug the maf back in, started, idled down and stalled but would start and idle on second attempt but as soon as i touched the throttle it would fall on it's face. A car will run (idle) without either TPS or MAF but you wont really get anywhere with it. Make sure your TPS signal wire is sweeping between 0.4 and 4.5 volts and that your MAF is clean and free of debris. also, are you running the 3.3 or 3.0 ECU? not an expert on this part but im assuming there would be a major difference in the fuel base mapping