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SYNCHROMASH

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  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

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Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    First 4x4. Already catching the fever... Needed hubs and new CV's. Trying to keep the build on a budget.
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    Chilkoot
  • Year
    1998

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Vancouver
  • Country
    Canada

SYNCHROMASH's Achievements

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  1. Do you know who OP is? I want to contact him regarding design ownership.
  2. YOU'RE THE MAN. Seriously, I would like to reward the good behaviour. Please send me your email address.
  3. Hey guys, A couple years ago I stumbled across the drawings for a split design swing-out spare tire carrier that someone had fab'd and published the drawings for. Does anyone know where the images are? I recall a photo of the owner standing on the opened carrier to prove its strength, and it being a gold R50 parked inside a well-kept garage. I did some searching here but it's so hard to narrow down the search criteria without getting too specific and getting 0 results. If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be greatly appreciated. $10USD etransfer in it for ya if you send the images or post a working link. Cheers, Mike
  4. I once had these saved on my computer but am unable to find them now. They were proper weldment drawings with cut lengths and all necessary fabricating details. If anyone can link me to them, I'd be eternally grateful.
  5. I have recently installed new front struts: New KYB Excel-G strut with used springs (kinda like used beer) as mine were sagged and I was hoping for an improvement. Also installed new KYB Gas-A-Just shocks in the rear. Interesting feel. Stiff over sharp obstacles, and pretty passive compression valving over speed bumps/large obstacles. Fronts struts got OEM Tops and Bearings and KYB Boots & Bump-Stops. After holding both Monroe Strut Tops and OEM Strut Tops in my hands on separate occasions in the process of purchasing the parts, I can say with almost complete certainty that the Monroe parts are coming out of the same factory and likely the same machine as the Dealership parts...at about 40% cheaper. I took everyone's advice and got the dealership parts but could have gotten away with the Monroe parts after getting the Lordco price down a bit. (april is trade-show month so they can slash pretty heavily. Got the shocks and struts down to basically Rockauto prices). The Monroe box might have included strut bearings as well if I'm not mistaken. Anyways, just trying to state some facts and add information to the forum. Cheers!
  6. Mind if I hijack your thread? No? Cool, thanks. Background: Trying to keep the R50 capable but on a budget. Also feel that open diffs lacking weld beads are a serious waste of space. Too broke for a front locker, too lazy to weld it and be paranoid about forgetting if I drive onto a surface with too much traction (and still have the hubs locked). Materials: Stock R50 Chilkoot Trail R200A front diff (in the vehicle). R200 VLSD out of a 1992 S13 SE. Both use 6-bolt stub shafts. Question: Any Nissan differential gurus in the house? Will the VLSD centre section (the VLS of the D) bolt up to the ring gear AND receive the R200A stubs shafts? Thanks for your time. Cheers, Mike
  7. If I may contribute anything of value, I just put my own Excel-G's up front, and Gas-A-Just's (acronym pluralization comma..?) in the rear and am pretty happy given I tend to roll with a little extra gear in the rear. Thankfully shocks are cheap enough that you can play around with them a bit and figure out what works best for you. Best of luck good sir!
  8. Hello good people of NPORA! Behold, my first post. I'm well aware that there are specific suspension threads/boards/chatrooms/drum-circles, but I'm dropping this here anyways. Respond with a link to a helpful thread, or don't. N00b ALERT. Big N00b here. I'm a N00b. Is that clear? No one's going to ask any rhetorical questions or be a smart ass? I promise I wont. I just picked up my first 4x4 recently for $500 as a rusty '98 Chilkoot Trail 5 spd that came with 31x10.5's on 15" yota pickup rims and am looking to replace the very blown suspension (springs and shocks are poooooched). The truck is just intended to be a very capable camping rig. Not looking to do any major Moab-level or multi day treks with it any time soon. It is being built one a budget. Questions: 1. What specifically is the 'AC 2" lift' that I see so many raving about? (respond with link please..?) I have found a couple different 2" lift kits on 4x4parts.com but am unsure which one exactly y'all are talking about http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981166-pathfinder-suspension-package.html 2. I notice people often running HD springs up front but am curious (if there are any suspension gurus in the house) if this will wear on stock-rate struts/shocks if there is no additional weight on the front end of the vehicle. Often when budget honda guys cut the progressive section out of their springs and run strictly on the more aggressive-rate portion of the spring, it eventually tears the shock valving apart because there is too much force extending the strut/shock. 3. Does there actually exist a KYB (being brand specific because 'GR-2' now is labelled as 'Excel-G') 'lift' strut? I've heard that the KYB struts that come with the 2" spring/strut/shock lifts kits aren't actually a longer/longer actuating strut. My current plan is to use used springs on KYB Excel-G's (Gr-2's), new OEM tops, and camber bolts up front, and used springs with KYB Gas-A-Just in the rear. The springs are out of another '98 Chilkoot Trail and hopefully aren't sagged. Hopefully the KYB struts only do come in one length so a front end lift later on wouldn't make the struts useless and replacing the rear shocks would be a relatively cheap expense. Extended brake hoses front and rear, and dis-connectable, adjustable sway bar end links in the front (and possibly rear). Probably going to re-purpose some jeep end links as it doesn't appear 4x4parts.com offers any Perhaps a pan-hard bar mount relocation bracket as well. Lately I've been considering that perhaps a body lift is actually the way to go as far as preserving front-end handling characteristics when zooming down logging roads as some kits claim to not alter suspension angles whatsoever, but 2" seems like a mild enough suspension lift. ANYWHO, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Mike P.S. Just purchased Excel-G struts and Gas-A-Just shocks. About to put another R50's used springs on them to get things going because currently the rig rides like the motion of the ocean.
  9. N00b ALERT. Big N00b here. I'm a N00b. Is that clear? No one's going to ask any rhetorical questions or be a smart ass? I promise I wont. I just picked up my first 4x4 recently for $500 as a rusty '98 Chilkoot Trail 5 spd that came with 31x10.5's on 15" yota pickup rims and am looking to replace the very blown suspension (springs and shocks are poooooched). The truck is just intended to be a very capable camping rig. Not looking to do any major Moab-level or multi day treks with it any time soon. It is being built one a budget. Questions: 1. What specifically is the 'AC 2" lift' that I see so many raving about? (respond with link please..?) I have found a couple different 2" lift kits on 4x4parts.com but am unsure which one exactly y'all are talking about http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981166-pathfinder-suspension-package.html 2. I notice people often running HD springs up front but am curious (if there are any suspension gurus in the house) if this will wear on stock-rate struts/shocks if there is no additional weight on the front end of the vehicle. Often when budget honda guys cut the progressive section out of their springs and run strictly on the more aggressive-rate portion of the spring, it eventually tears the shock valving apart because there is too much force extending the strut/shock. 3. Does there actually exist a KYB (being brand specific because 'GR-2' now is labelled as 'Excel-G') 'lift' strut? I've heard that the KYB struts that come with the 2" spring/strut/shock lifts kits aren't actually a longer/longer actuating strut. My current plan is to use used springs on KYB Excel-G's (Gr-2's), new OEM tops, and camber bolts up front, and used springs with KYB Gas-A-Just in the rear. The springs are out of another '98 Chilkoot Trail and hopefully aren't sagged. Hopefully the KYB struts only do come in one length so a front end lift later on wouldn't make the struts useless and replacing the rear shocks would be a relatively cheap expense. Extended brake hoses front and rear, and dis-connectable, adjustable sway bar end links in the front (and possibly rear). Probably going to re-purpose some jeep end links as it doesn't appear 4x4parts.com offers any Perhaps a pan-hard bar mount relocation bracket as well. Lately I've been considering that perhaps a body lift is actually the way to go as far as preserving front-end handling characteristics when zooming down logging roads as some kits claim to not alter suspension angles whatsoever, but 2" seems like a mild enough suspension lift. ANYWHO, any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! Cheers, Mike
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