Jump to content

PATHRIDER

Members
  • Posts

    591
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by PATHRIDER

  1. This is one reason why I try to do all the work on my pathy myself with the help of members here..Damn highway robbery if it is repacking the bearings

     

    another thing is if they break something theyll claim its already broken so you are the one stuck with buying that parts they broke. I know their scam

  2. Thanks adam..The horn works ..I replaced the vacuum hose today just to make sure.

     

    would the indicator light only turn on when you set cruise or would it turn on when you hit the on/ off switch just below the vents? the switch has a square green light and that turns on when pressed

     

    Im going to have to check the switch on the brakes. I have not looked under there yet..This saved me time trying to trouble shoot all the wires bro..Thanks

     

    BTW I dont think it matters if its stick or auto on the brake switch part right?

  3. been trying to locate where the fuse is on a 94 pathy for the cruise control guys. I looked at the fsm and it shows that its fused but it does not give a location where the fuse is.

    My cruise control switch on the left bottom corner comes on but Im not quite sure if theres an indicator in the dash to tell me its activated coz the cruise control on my wifes truck has never been tested until yesterday. Turned the switch on yesterday and hit the set coast button on the steering wheels and nothing happened

     

    checked all my fuses and theyre all good...Is there another location for fuses on a 94 pathy besides the one inside the cab just above the kick panel and the one on the engine bay drivers side close to the firewall?

     

    I also checked on how to trouble shoot the solenoid and the cruise module itself but before i go on poking wires i just wanna check the fuse first and if it isnt then Ill have to determine whether its the module switch or solenoid

     

     

    Thanks fellas

  4. Yes, it must be on the compression stroke, TDC cylinder #1 (the forward most on the passenger side IIRC) and the dizzy rotor should be pointing at the front passenger corner IIRC). Best way to tell compression stroke (springy one is probably right) is to put your finger over the plug hole and crank the motor. On compression stroke, it will push air past your finger... ;)

     

    I have to ask, only because I have done it, do you have your timing light clipped to the right plug wire?? #1 again... ;)

     

    B

     

    Thanks b .. I have it clipped on plug 1 :D Im going to double check on it today and make sure Im on compression stroke on plug 1 when I reinstall the dizzy

     

    Im pretty sure I did it on exhaust stroke thats probably why its 180 off..I will keep you guys posted. W

     

    I took a short clip last night on how it runs just cant figure out how to upload the vid

  5. #1 Will be at TDC (top dead center) at both compression and exhaust iirc... it's which valves are open that are different. Again, someone a little more knolidged on this particular subject should chime in soon

     

    Im thinking that its just like when we do the timing belt that the cylinder has to be up (compression stroke) before lining up the marks on the belt. It has to be on tdc in compression stroke

     

    Trick that i was told when I did my timing is pull out plug 1 and stick a long zip tie in there and wath for it to go up then its for sure in the compression stroke..Thanks man

  6. COuld the dist. be in 180 off? Like on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke? Someone will correct me proably, just thinking openly

     

    You might be correct bud. when I manually turned the crank pulley It has the real springy feel to it at first then it passed the 0 mark (thanks to my drunk buddy) So I have to crank it clockwise again and the second turrn it is a lot easier and soft to turn, When it has a springy feel when cranking the crank pulley manually it means its on the compression stroke right? i bet thats what the problem is..I didnt pay attention to exhaust and compression stroke when I dropped the distributor in and lined up the rotor with the number 1 plug

    Im going to pull the plug out tomorrow and make sure im on compression stroke before i line up the rotor to plug 1

     

    Compression stroke it when the cylinder is up right? :headwall:

  7. hey guys I was finally able to fire up my pathy thats been sitting for about a month now but one problem iss when i was going to set the timing it was way off

    Before i started her I pulled the distributor and replaced it with one I got off of a 94 pathy at the junkyard and the ecu also came from a 94 auto

     

    When i installed the distributor I followed my1paths instruction on installing it. I have the mark on my crank pulley at 0 and dropped the distributor in making sure that the rotor is facing spark plug 1 which it is. started her up and it took a couple of crank before she fired up and it runs great except with a little hesitation that sounds like its choking a bit so I figured it must be cold still , I let it warm up for about 10 mins and checked the timing and it is about 180 degrees off or its passed the 30 mark on the crank pulley by about 6 notches (0.5.10.15.20.25.30)

    It surprised me that it ran well considering the timing is way off.

     

    My question is could it have skipped a tooth or so on the belt? I did my timing belt 2 years ago and hardly drives my pathfinder

    could the distributor be a defective one?

     

    should I let it warm up some more ?

     

    Thanks Fellas

  8. If you do JR's test itll change to four basics

     

     

    GAS

    AIR

    SPARK

    ALCOHOL

     

    Kidding aside, this might be helpful also

     

     

    1267505219003851800.gif

     

    A. The most common cause of this symptom is a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) inside the distributor.

     

    PURPOSE:

    The Crankshaft Position sensor, located in the distributor, monitors engine speed and piston position.

     

    OPERATION:

    When the rotor passes between the photo diodes and Light Emitting Diodes (LED) the slits in the rotor plate cut the light being transmitted to the photo diode from the LED. This generates rough-shaped pulses which are changed into ON/OFF signals by the wave forming circuit. The Engine Control Module (ECM) interprets these signals to calculate engine rpm and cylinder position.

    Nissan Altima Dies, Won't Restart When Hot

    Crankshaft Position Sensor

     

    CONSTRUCTION:

    The unit has a rotor plate and a wave forming circuit. The rotor plate has 360 slits for 1° signals and 4 slits for 180° signals. Photo diodes and light emitting diodes (LED's) are used for the wave forming circuit.

     

    If there is oil in the distributor coming up past the shaft seal, then it is possible the oil may be filling in some of the slits and causing the engine to die.

     

    However, it is much more likely the CPS itself is bad. Sometimes you can confirm this by letting the engine run for about 30 to 45 minutes with the hood closed, then tapping the side of the distributor with a small hammer. If the engine dies, you have a bad CPS for sure.

     

    If it doesn't, the next time you drive it and it dies, check for spark at once. If there is no spark then you probably do have a bad CPS. The problem is if you check it when the engine is running normally, it will check out as good.

  9. A. The most common cause of this symptom is a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) inside the distributor.

     

    PURPOSE:

    The Crankshaft Position sensor, located in the distributor, monitors engine speed and piston position.

     

    OPERATION:

    When the rotor passes between the photo diodes and Light Emitting Diodes (LED) the slits in the rotor plate cut the light being transmitted to the photo diode from the LED. This generates rough-shaped pulses which are changed into ON/OFF signals by the wave forming circuit. The Engine Control Module (ECM) interprets these signals to calculate engine rpm and cylinder position.

    Nissan Altima Dies, Won't Restart When Hot

    Crankshaft Position Sensor

     

    CONSTRUCTION:

    The unit has a rotor plate and a wave forming circuit. The rotor plate has 360 slits for 1° signals and 4 slits for 180° signals. Photo diodes and light emitting diodes (LED's) are used for the wave forming circuit.

     

    If there is oil in the distributor coming up past the shaft seal, then it is possible the oil may be filling in some of the slits and causing the engine to die.

     

    However, it is much more likely the CPS itself is bad. Sometimes you can confirm this by letting the engine run for about 30 to 45 minutes with the hood closed, then tapping the side of the distributor with a small hammer. If the engine dies, you have a bad CPS for sure.

     

    If it doesn't, the next time you drive it and it dies, check for spark at once. If there is no spark then you probably do have a bad CPS. The problem is if you check it when the engine is running normally, it will check out as good.

     

     

    1267505219003851800.gif

  10. The CAS (Crank Angle Sensor also called a Crank Position Sensor) is located inside the dizzy on all petro burning WD21's. It can be replaced separately but from what I know (have always been told) it is such a sensitive part (dust, moisture, etc) that replacing the complete dizzy is often recommended.

     

    Depending on what brand and where your buying from, a complete distributor may only be a little more than just the CAS.

    arghhh...I just replaced my dizzy yesterday but from trying to remove the old rotor that seized I squirt it with a bit of pb blaster and it sipped inside the sensor ( under the gold cap..I opened it up and theres a bit of pb on there so I sprayed it with electonis cleaner and used a air gun to dry it.. Do you think that damaged my distributor? :scratchhead:

  11. B if you put another bolt or 2 where I had the green arrow pointing I can guarantee you that bumper aint going nowhere. If you look at the 2 brackets you have there isnt anything fastened on the chasis without a bracket. No matter how tight you tighten those bolts theres still a chance of the brackets moving on all fastening point.

    My top bracket is only there as a washer but it is bolted directly on the chassis

     

     

    1267501499017528000.jpg

  12. Heres how I did mine. I used the brackets that came with the body lift kit.

     

    The bottom factory whole was utilized when I first installed it but after a few times that ive removed and reinstalled the bumper I stripped the factory threaded hole but no problem I just drilled it out bigger and used bigger nuts and bolts (grade 8) once I got the bottom bracket installed in place I had a buddy push up on the bumper and in so that I can line up the bumper to where i wanted it so sit then drilled another hole just a bit below the elongated hole to the right. Im going to be drilling another hole where the green arrow is pointed soon as I get some time. Its held up fine for 3 years now.The only time I had a problem with it is when my pathy got stolen and tried to tow it from the brush guard and the guard it bolted on to the bumpers also and it snapped the weak bolt. I since upgraded all the bolts to a bigger and stronger grade

    For me this worked out great coz I can adjust the bumpers to where I want it positioned

     

    1267469676021337900.jpg

    1267469934037860900.jpg

  13. I'm fairly certain the idle specs for the MPFI are 700-800 manual tranny and 750-850 AT. I have never had to adjust it before, so I'm no help there...

     

    B

    I was about to send you a message bud...lol..Im sure somebody can chime in on how to adjust the idle..Ive never done it either and everytime I do a tune up I only adjust the timing and call it good....i was looking at the ecu and it has idle speed screw on there..maybe I should mess with it

  14. I believe you need to view/adjust your timing at EXACTLY 800RPM or you'll never set the timing properly, and the engine needs to be 100% warmed up.

     

    how do i set my rpm at 800?

  15. My wifes pathy had the very same leak and I replaced the hose a couple of days ago and now her steering is so much better and smoother.

     

    I bought some 3/8 hose at auto zone and used different clamps .Filled it with dex3.Its an easy task. 1 hr tops

  16. Im having the same problem on my hardbody...It was running fine till I changed my plugs, wires,pcv valve,filter, caps and rotors.

    I replaced some of the vacuum hoses also and it still idles funny. I gaped the plugs to .032

    It runs fine but when im at a stop it seems to idle rough and i can see my rpm go up and down from about 700 to 800

     

    Could I have crossed any of my plug wires? When I took the old plugs out which are also ngk I noticed the gapping on them is far wider than .032..I can almost shim a quarter on there

×
×
  • Create New...