Nevyn

I have had a look in the manual, hopefully I will be able to put it to good use...... as for the gasket, I never pulled the pump apart...so the only gasket is what will go between the pump and the timing cover....that had a new gasket, but I will make a new one from some gasket paper.....its a bit thinker than the bought one, but should still work ok.

Thanks for that Cuong.....I will do that tomorrow...I have a feeling it won't be the problem though as the pump came off the engine I took out...but best to check everything first...... not looking forward to having to change the bearings with the engine in the Pathfinder still

Whats the best way to test the pump? Whats involved in testing the pickup?

So I got the diff out.....so much easier to get the torsion bar out when the front is jacked up to take the tension off...... Got the sump off and the oil pickup looks fine, the filter isn't blocked at all.....so what else now could be causing the no oil pressure?

got the diff out....much easier with the torsion bar off

Thanks for that.....I had tried undoing the adjuster nut but after going so far it got so tight even a rattle gun couldn't get it to turn....I tried jacking up the adjuster thinking it would take the tension off, but it made no difference......should I jack up the whole front, or just the side I want to take the torsion bar out from?

mmm....I don't find that particularly helpful Cuong.......maybe explaining how to get the torsion bar off may be a little more helpful

could you clarify that a bit for me Kingman.....not too sure what your saying

for those interested I unbolted the gearbox crossmember, unbolted the tail shaft from the rediff, then pushed the gearbox back as far as I could......with a bit of pulling and twisting I got the engine off the gearbox shaft.....installing the engine was much the same with a bit of pushing and twisting of the engine, and using a jack under the gearbox to get the right angle and height to line up the shaft with the engine....needed to turn the tailshaft a bit to line the splines up right.....used a jimmybar to pull the gearbox up to the engine enough till I could use the bolts to pull the box and engine together fully...... Its a bit difficult to tell if doing it like that would require the front diff to be dropped or not and I'm a few months away at least before I'm pulling the engine back out to find out. Biggest problem I have now is getting the front diff crossmember out from where it is sitting on the torsion bar.....do I need to remove the torsion bar to do this?

Does anyone have any idea how to remove the front diff from a 1987 WD? I have every bolt undone and have only managed to get one side of the cross member down lower than the torsion bar (left hand side).....the right hand side torsion bar is stiopping the other end.....this is starting to become very frustrating as I need to get the sump off so I can change the oil pickup...... any help would be appreciated

the pump and the dizzy are both run off the crank by the same shaft that runs between both of them.... I haven't touched the car since last week....I just had to have a few days away from it to get me head clear.......I was worried it may have been the oil slinger, but after a bit of research I am doubting that.....I am starting to lean toward the pickup screen been blocked though, as the engine sat for 3 years without ever been turned over. Even though the oil was never drained, the screen could still have been blocked if the oil thickened in that time.....I still have the front diff all unbolted, even though I still can't get the bloody thing out :-/ ..... but if I lift the engine off the mounts, will that give me enough room to take to sump out?

I changed the sender, still have the light staying on......I've now removed the oil pump and it is bone dry, not a drop of oil in it.....now what could be the cause of that? could it be the pump itself of will it be the pickup in the sump? Is there a way I can check the pump with it out of the engine?

once I got the air filter on and all the vacuum hoses fitted I started it up again and it ran a lot better.....no backfiring, running a lot smoother, and no smoke at all.....still needs a tuneup and the timing tweaked a bit, but overall running a lot better....oil light is still staying on, but will deal with that tomorrow

the engine is in and all bolted together.......still under 100psi on compression in #2 & #3....#1 & #4 are fine......I put a bit of oil down the spark plug holes of #1 & #4 and put in the plugs and hooked the leads up....the engine fired up with no effort at all first time, but due to the oil in the cylinders smoke filled the backyard.......engine is running a little rough with a bit of back fire and won't idle on its own, so obviously needs the timing adjusted a bit and then a tuneup.......main concern now though is the oil light staying on....the engine is full of oil, so baring the oil pump, or faulty sender, what else could be the problem?

So I got the engine's swapped over....fount it a lot easier to unbolt the main tail shaft, unbolt the gearbox cross member, and push the gearbox back as far as it would go, all back together now fine...... Now I am putting the head back on I need to make sure the cam is in the correct position before putting the timing chain on....on youtube I found a video of a block doing a full rebuild of a Z24, only problem is that its all in spanish....now when it came to doing the overhead cam timing he showed that the 2 has to line up with a mark on the #1 rocker, like how it is in the photo.....is this correct?

ok.....after jacking the diff up and tapping the flanges with a hammer I managed to separate the drive shafts from the diff......the diff lowered down more than it had before, but not sure if its still enough to get the engine out.....will try that tomorrow.....if it doesn't then I will look at pulling to diff back and lower it to the ground

trexterra, do I need to take anything else off to get the axles out? I thought unbolting the flanges would be enough

so I've got all the bolts out, wound down the jack.....but the diff ain't moving.....any ideas how I get it out, or at least lower it enough to get the engine out?

so on the left hand side of the front diff (looking towards the front of the car from underneath) are these the correct bolts to undo to separate the diff from the drive shaft?

Thanks Slartibartfast .....I have the bolts on the cross member out, but the torsion bars stop it from dropping. In these 2 photos I am thinking the bolts to undo at the drive axles are the ones marked??? is this correct?

I'm am trying to get the engine (Z24) out of my 1987 Pathfinder. The sump is hard up against the drive shaft from the diff. In the manual it says "remove the bolts that attach the rear mounting member of the front differential to the frame." Can someone please explain this to me please.....hopefully with a few photos so I know what I am looking at. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.