Nevyn

Could be possible, but no cruise control...... I'm been rather busy lately so haven't had much chance to do anything, but have a pretty free day tomorrow given we have a long weekend over here....I would rather be out up in the mountains but not till I get this hose sorted.

It does seem to idle higher than it should be, and has started to use more fuel..... With the weekend here now I am hoping to find time to have a very close look over the whole engine and try and find where it should be.

The other end of it goes in through the firewall to something in the dash......I can't find anything that is relating to this in my service manual.

Have never seen a vacuum routing diagram under the bonnet, but will double check just in case. It definitely goes to the inlet side of the engine, so rules out the dizzy vacuum (and that hose is connected anyway)....but I will move the hose around and see where it reaches.... When the engine in running the hose is sucking.

Didn't think of checking where the other end goes? Will check it out soon. It's a 1987 model...Z24 with a carburetor, not injected

Thats what I did, reused the old one.....settled it down a bit, but not much

Hi all....I have noticed a small vacuum hose is off at one end. I have no idea where it goes and need some help. I can't even say where its coming from as I don't know what its called, but I have included a photo to help with that. With this hose not connected could it be causing any running issues?

Is it possible to buy the little white bit on the end of the cable that goes into the speedo? I bought a new cable, but it didn't come with it, and now at around 60km/h the needle bounces back in forth like crazy...once I get up to about 80 it stops and seems fine.

Thanks Slartibartfast for the help. I ended up taking the resistor out and just wired the dizzy straight to the coil.....all working fine :-)

After reading the link you included I am thinking the same about keeping the resistor..... Thanks for all your help and explanations

Sounds good and very similar to what I was told this arvo....the condenser you mention the the ceramic fuse you find beside the coil?

I finally found an electronic distributor for me 1987 Pathfinder. The problem I see though is the wiring coming off it, 2 wires, 1 red 1 blue...with the old points dizzy it was 2 wires from the wiring harness that went to the dizzy, 1 of them cliped onto the wire coming from a capacitor that was screwed to the side of the dizzy body.... Can anyone help me with how these wires connect up? Cheers Nev

I don't recall if the battery was disconnected or not at the time. I did have it out that day recharging, but think I may have reinstalled it before changing the coil...at the time I also put a new fuel filter and line in. Thanks for the link for the regulator, I will check that all out when I get home from work tomorrow.

After fitting a new coil to my 1986 Nissan Pathfinder, Z24 engine, the tacho, fuel and temp gauges are no longer working....could it just be a fuse blown or have a caused a bigger problem with the coil?

defiantly a light foot....I won't even start moving till the oil light comes on.....overall its running better than the engine that came out, but be interesting to see how it goes on a few hills where this engine use to lose a bit of power.......won't do that till I get a wheel alignment on Tuesday, after having the torsion bars and front diff out it badly needs an alignment.

been an older engine I have always used 20-50 oil in it....I did come across a 30-60 oil about 4yrs ago and used that for awhile as I had a few leaks from the sump

Pathfinder is up n running....have driven it around a few times since yesterday, oil light still comes on if left idling for too long.....just needs a good wheel alignment now and should keep me on the road till the other engine is fully rebuilt

I seem to have the oil pressure problem fixed for now......the light isn't going off as quickly as it should, and then after idling for a while it will flicker then come back on, but if I give it a few revs the light goes back out.....now to get the front diff back in before taking it for a drive

got another week off, so will get a start on it today sometime

As I have said, this engine is just a temp fix for now while I get the engine I took out a full rebuild....for now I just want it to get on the road and get me around for 2-3 months. One thing that was suggested to me today is to use the bearings from the original engine instead of spending money on something that I will rip out in a few months.....I would rather save me money if I can for the rebuild.....

I can get both sets of bearings here for $110, so may as well do both while I have the sump off..... all up since I have had this engine in I'd say it had been running for around 20 minutes trying to get the oil pressure up.....how much damage would you think would have been done to the bearings? for a temporary engine its getting a lot of money spent on it

To help get me head around this.....How can trashed bearings affect the oil pressure? Would they be the main bearing or the rod bearings? Or both?

that sounds like bloody good idea Coung.....will have to get some...... I have been told to unbolt the pickup pipe and put an air hose in the hole and blow it threw to check for any blockages in the block, will do that today

tested both oil pumps today, and both are pumping fine.....back to square one..... Is it important the the pump be full of oil when put back in place?

the one positive coming out of all this is I am learning more n more about the engine, running gear, and suspension