Meatsac

Ok so stil working on this and not getting anywhere really. at least i have a multimeter and a suspected culprit. Here is a picture of the relay that the above nissan 720 article is relating to (BTW if anyone has a FSM for a non injected Z24 i would really appreciate it). I measured the voltage in at all the ignition positions and came back with this Colour Running (v) On (v) Accessory (v) Off (v) White -0.02 0 0 0 White Red 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6 Yellow 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6 White Black 0.34 <10* 12.6 12.6 White Blue 0.38 <10* 12.6 12.6 Black 15.4 12.6 12.6 12.6 * these numbers were continually running down, should have checked them before i started it but i didnt. I checked continuity from the white wire to the ignition switch at it was ok. below is the diagram, presumably of the same relay but in a 720 as that is what the article referred to. My electronics are all working fine except for 2 things: 1)Most of the time the key won't shut off the engine. I have to bring it to bite point, turn off the key and then hit a killswitch (that i have no idea how it functions) 2)Battery light is always on in while the engine is running. If anyone can help point me in the right direction towards fixing either of these i will be eternally grateful. Thanks Terranovation for setting me on the right path.

Thanks! From, the future.

Sweet, so new zealand is the land of the d21 then. There's at least three others parked within 200m of my house

Out of intrerest, how many pathfinders do you see about? Are they rare near you? Personally I've seen probably 10 today after 4hrs of driving, half of which was well away from traffic. They're all terrano's here but i've seen a few actual pathfinders too. Usually one comes for sale every day or two.

so you take the battery out and bring it into your house and then stick an electric blanket around it? that's tickled me that has

So I did it and bought some new hubs and, surprise surprise, it was them all down to them. Really appreciate the help of the community, feel like i understand differentials a bit more now. I realise this question crops up a fair bit, having found a couple of other similar threads after posting, but if we all went around only asking original questions then the world would be pretty quiet right? Now all I have to do is get the fuel pump to shut off with the ignition and she'll be ruinning as good as new. Thanks again Pathfamily

Can I force the hubs to stay locked or something? They both looked the same when I opened them up, but they could easily have both been screwed.

That's what I've been hoping. I just thought that CV axle would be spinning inside the unlocked free hub. Is there a way to test this before i go and get some new hubs?

neither front wheels are spinning at all when on grass, wet mud etc. My auto hubs no longer make a disengage click like they used to when i did have all wheel drive. What i mean by the cv axles are spinning is that when i get someone to drive back and forwards while i look under, i can see the front left CV spins, and the front drive shaft, but not the right. If power is going to one side but not the other, wouldnt the open diff mean that i get zero power at either wheels?

Sounds possible. The killswitch was installed well befor i broke it, presumably because they are pretty easy truck to break into. This issue has only been since the alternator was installed by local garage.

Sweet. Where's the fuel pump on a z24? Will badger a neighbour for a volt meter

Battery is a week old. Exactly that happened with the garage installing two alternators before giving up. When I turn the key, the battery light comes on, it starts and runs fine but the light won't go out. Turn the key off and take it out doesn't stop the engine. Luckily there is a kill switch installed. I'll do the earths and maybe change the fusable link. Brown wire feels a bit rubbery. Thanks for the advice.

As far as I can tell is ok. Not got avoltmeter atm though. Last time I checked I was only getting power to the left hand side of the main relay by the battery. Would that indicate fusible link? It was at a garage who said they could keep working on it as long as my wallet was botgomless so I had to decline.

At least you didn't have a stranger break yours.

At least you didn't have a stranger break yours.

Yet another complication. Alternator died. New one in charging fine but something is definitely fried. Battery light now is permanent. Key no longer kills the car, having to use killswitch instead. This is not that much of an issue, although i would like to be able to tell if my battery does stop charging etc. I have replaced some obviously burned out wires in the engine bay to no avail. Now i guess i must go into the front quarter and have a look. Just wandered if anyone knew of any in line fuses or anything that could be the issue, and weather i can get at them through the dash instead of taking off the quarter panel. Thnaks agian for any help.

Hi people, having a bit of a nightmare. Went out to a few tracks a weekend or two ago only to find out, some way in, that the front half of my 4wd is not working properly. Managed to get about with only the occasional tow out, but obviously this has to change. Was hoping someone could give me a worse case scenario based on my limited troubleshooting ability. So here is what I think I know: Front auto hubs don't seem to be either engaging or disengaging (not 100% which but assuming disengaging. Opened them, cleaned them, they seem In working order. Drive shaft from transfer case to front differential spins in 4wd. Left front CV spins in 4wd. Right front CV does not spin in 4wd. Now I'm assuming that i will need to replace the diff, or at least something inside of it. Any tips on what I should do to further diagnose and if I do need a new front diff then are they interchangeable between the 1991 terrano/pathfinders or would I need a Z24 one specifically? Truck is 1991 Nissan Pathfinder Z24 further than that i know not. Cheers in advance for knowledge.

Yeah seems like i will have to. Just wanted to get it on myself but as its the daily finding the right time is a nightmare.

Ok will give it a go. I basically live in New Zealand's Asspen at the minute though so everything is overpriced and in limited supply

Sorry i already posted something like this elsewheres but here seems more appropriate. So, here we go. Firstly I have a two door pathfinder with the z24 engine. My registration has the year as 1991 but it seems like the two door z24 wasn't i production then so maybe that's just when it was imported. I have bought replacement sections for the rear two sections of the exhaust but cannot for the life of me find the front section, roughly 3ft, that connects to the manifold. There are sections on ebay and the like for the d21 hardbody, is there any chance that it would be the same? aren't they basically the same underneat + same engine etc.? The only other thing i've seen that comes close is for a 1996-99 terrano 2 2.4l which again i didn't think existed. Anyway, any help pointing me in the right direction would be super appreciated. I've tried nissan and as many wreckers as i can in new zealand and come up short (nissan said maybe but it would cost at least 400 bucks!!!) Thanks guys.

Hi, replacing my exhaust as it is holier than a sieve. The tailpipe and the muffler section i have but i cannot for the life of me find the short section between the manifold and the muffler section. There are none in any wreckers yards and nissan aren't even sure they can get it but know that it will cost me at least 400bucks and 3 weeks wait. So what I'm asking is, where can i get this section from in the US? Seems like it might be cheaper that trying to have the part made out here. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks guys.

Thanks lads, appreciate it. Turns out it was that pesky faulty switch and the bulbs were all fine.

Hi fellas, I'm having a bit of an issue. To pass my warrant of fitness my truck needs to be able to communicate to me that the full beams are on. Sadly the light is no longer working. Was just wandering if this was an issue anyone else has had and if there was somewhere i could get instructions on how to remove the console as I'm particularly averse to just getting stuck in and trying to rip the dash out. Thanks in advance.