colbywan
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Posts posted by colbywan
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That's pretty much it..
Well this is the first time I've ever attempted to do a write up like this so please if there is something left out don't kill me!
The main reason I wanted to do this was because I've got so much helpful information from this website that I thought this was my chance to make a stab at trying to give back.
I hope you enjoy it!
-Colby
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Another thing I did was put quick connects everywhere there is a light so that if one bites the dust it's easy to replace or if I wanna upgrade to better.
I ran 5 small wires from the relays (85) up to the dash that would be the control wires for the switches.
This is where I mounted the switches. It's an easy place to get to only one panel under the dash has to come off to gain access to this spot.
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I wired pretty much the same as this diagram except for the power to initialize the coil (86 on the relay) I used power that was only on when the ignition was on so that way if the keys weren't in I couldn't accidentally run the battery dead by forgetting to switch something off.
The only way to get power up to all these lights was to drill the roof. So I did it! I decided to drill in the back almost directly above the passenger rear speaker. To gain access to this spot I took the headliner down partially. Then ran the wires down from the roof into the rear compartment where I wanted my relays. All the relays I mounted to a small piece of ABS with rivets then after I wired them up I just stuck them to the inside of the rear compartment with the same AUTOMOTIVE grade double sided tape. That's also how I mounted my fused power distribution center just stuck to the inside of the fender!
After I finished up all the wiring and tested all the lights I ran wire loom over all the wire on the roof and siliconed the hell out of the wires from the top and from underneath. Then I cable tied in various places and also used rubber tape (similar to electrical tape) Then I cable tied the whole thing to the rack so that it would rub the paint off my roof. I also protected the rack where I cable tied with the same rubber tape so it doesn't get rubbed the wrong way too.
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Now it's time to paint! I take the rack to my work where there's a spray booth and hang it up. I painted it first with a product called CRE epoxy primer (on the right). It's an industrial/automotive coating that has to be mixed with catalyst and reducers.
After letting it have 15 mins for what's called a flash coat I sprayed a different product over the primer called AUE-400LG (on the left) which is an automotive matte black hence the "LG" in AUE-400LG. It has to be mixed with a catalyst, reducers, and an accelerator. These are the same exact products I used to paint my wheels. I wanted my wheels and rack to match.
Let the rack dry for a day then go pick it up.
After picking up my rack I need to fit all my lights and get them ready for wiring. I started with the 4 that face forward. After getting them bolted up I put the 2 side facing and the 2 reversing. Now I've got to fit all my ABS panels to the rack and wire the LED's up. I'm using AUTOMOTIVE GRADE double sided foam tape to fasten them to the rack.
Now the REAL fun begins, the wiring!!
For the wiring first thing I needed to do was make a plan. I wanted to run 14 lights. 4 main front facing, 2 off each side, 2 for reversing, and 6 LED cargo/running lights. I decided the safest bet was to run each set of 2 on a relay then to a switch except for the LED's which I ran all 6 off one relay and switch. I already had a huge fused main power ran straight off the battery for my audio amps. So I unhooked the main power from the amps and ran it to a fused power distribution center I put behind the panel in the rear compartment. The power center has 10 fused outputs. I ran 6 main powers to the relays and from there up to the roof to the lights. I was going to just ground my rack to the body then ground each light to it but I spent so much time painting it I couldn't justify drilling it and making a spot for it to rust so instead I ran 2 10 gauge wires up to the roof and bridged off from there. I wanted there to be just as much ground as power. I pretty much followed the tips on this website and used what was recommended or bigger.
Http://ovo.ca/wiring/wiring.html
Main power at the battery -
Fuse for Main power -
Main power enters firewall here -
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I wanted to keep this as inexpensive as possible so I bought all my lights at harbor freight (I will replace them as the die off) I got all my lights except the LED's for under $80 out the door!
While on ebay I found some really cool LED's that were totally waterproof and were designed for some type of marine use so I bought them. I then figured I wanted to find some unique way to use them on or in my truck. The original idea was to put them inside for lighting in the back for cargo type uses but I changed my mind and decided to find a way to use them in my new rack project.
To get them mounted to the rack I'd need somewhere to mount them so I figured ABS plastic would be my best bet. So I measured where I was going to place them then cut plastic and drilled it big enough for the lights.
The plastic has a smooth side and a textured side I wanted the textured side showing because it looks more dull and goes with the flow of everything else and the matte finish on the rack and wheels.
Now back to the rack itself...
Now to weld up the light brackets.
Now that every thing's welded in place it's time to finish the prepping. So taking my angle grinder again with the grinding wheel cleaned up the rest of the welds. Now swapped and get the wire wheel for a final look over for anything I had missed checking very very closely. Next is to use some sort of cleaner. I like this product, we use it at work and have had good luck. You want to make sure you use plenty of it and rub every inch of steel. If you don't use a product like this then it's very hard to get a good bond to bare metal. Use heavy duty shop type paper towels or rags and be sure to turn your rag often. Make sure you wipe til you can't get any more black off. Believe me this will take some time. Don't just wipe it once and call it good.
Next I used high end automotive caulking and sealed every weld or imperfection I could possibly find. I caulked everywhere water could sit and caulked in all the light brackets around their welds. I didn't want rust to have a chance!
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I recently bought a used rack from another forum member (vengeful). Thanks for the prompt shipping Dan.
No worries man. 
I had been thinking about which style rack to buy for looks and function. Part of the reason I got the rack from him was because judging from it's design I figured I could mount it down by using my stock cross bars to hold it down on the factory roof rack and if they didn't work I was planning on making something out of steel that would work. I started by getting the rack in my possession then deciding how to mount it to the roof. Luckily it worked out exactly as I planned and the factory crossbars fit over the two main supports of the rack and hold it down very snug on my roof. Then I decided on the height I wanted. The rack was about 8" tall when I got it. Here's what it looked liked before I started.
I decided it was too tall for my taste so I took my angle grinder and cut 4" out of it then welded it back together. Here's a pic just after welding before any real prep began.
Next I took my grinder and cleaned up all the welds every where to make them all purdy. The paint was absolutely terrible it would just scrape right off with a putty knife. For some reason the original primer didn't bond to the metal very well at all and would release cause all paint to release. This is very common because most people don't know how to properly prep material before paint especially when it comes to bare metals.. I decided for the best bond I'd need to start over completely so I got out my trusty angle grinder with a wire wheel and proceeded to remove ALL paint down to bare steel.
I have to say that it took me a fair amount of time to remove all paint from the entire rack. Don't get discouraged when doing prep the better you prep the longer the paint will last. When painting, PREP means EVERYTHING!!
After I finally got the whole thing stripped I need to make some brackets for the lights I had in mind so I decided to use some flat bar material. You could use anything similar just be sure it will support the weight of your lights.
I measured how long to cut them then I cut em and used a torch to heat them so I could bend them to the right angle. last I drilled the hole where the light mounts. I needed 8 so that's how many I made.
After getting the brackets all made and drilled it was time to decide where exactly I wanted all my lights.
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you have a switch for each light?
Me? No. There are 5 switches total. One controls the 2 middle lights facing forward, another for the outside 2 facing forward, a switch for the 2 lights off the side, and one for the rear facing or backup lights, then one last switch to control all my LED cargo/running lights.
5 switches, 14 lights.
-Colby
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thanks! and thanks for your help! They are crooked on the pics because I had to wait until darkness to line them up..... but that is done now!!!!
I can seeeeee!!!!!!
Any time! I'm glad everything worked out for ya.
-Colby
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I'm using an extra factory light switch in the center console that I picked up from edicer.
Isnt my rack already grounded if its bolted to the roof? And its aluminum so it wont rust....but now that I think about it, that would probably be bad for grounding correct?
lol. Looks like I may be ripping apart my headliner again to run a ground wire through.
I don't know if alum grounds as good or not good question. You could check to see if they grounded well enough if you have one of those battery jump start boxes or an extra batter. I used one hooked it to the positive of the light then to the ground of the chassis to see where good ground spots were and if the rack was grounded with out the extra wire. My rack is connected to the roof via the factory rack but I've got rubber spacers in between so that the paint stays nice ya know but if your is bolted directly it may be grounded better.
-Colby
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I put the daylighters on my roof today. Drilled through the stock crossbar and then through the roof.. lol. I did it!!! and it came out great! I have never wanted the daylight to go away so bad before! C'mon darkness!!!
Hell yeah dude looks good!
I know the feeling believe me...-Colby
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haha, no worries.
Yeah I'm using a 40 amp 5 prong relay for 4 lights, two running off each power prong.
Then yeah, you've got to ground the switch. You'll need to ground the rack then ground the lights to it. Another option, the one I used was to send ground up to the lights then ground in to the chassis mostly because all the time i spent prepping and painting my rack I didn't want to make somewhere it could rust.
Where r you mounting switches? This is where I mounted mine. All I had to do is pull the piece of dash below the steering wheel for them.
-Colby
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your rack looks great Colby. Can't wait for the write up for it in your other thread.
Yeah, I'm wiring it to a stock fog switch I have, so have to deal with the dash removal I guess.
Two more questions for everyone....
1. Do I need to ground the switch? One of my diagrams has it grounded, the other doesnt.
2. Can I ground my lights to the rack?
Thanks a bunch everyone. Will post pics as soon as I'm done!
Thanks
Are you using relays? Here is a VERY good site on basically how to wire everything with advice on how much power per relay and wire size. Basically everything you need to know.
-Colby
edit - duh I forgot to put the link after putting the diagram up..
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They can be a pain unless you know the tricks. Take a box knife and barely stick it under the edge of the head then slightly lift it up til it pops it's little head up then pull them out with needle nose pliers or similar. I like using the sharp blade better than the flat head screw driver because it too can be a paint to get in there. They are very easy if you get it down to a science like I've got. I have had every one in the truck out several times doing all kinds of wiring.
-Colby
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That's an awsome idea!
Yeah the coolest part is they stretch to fit almost any drink! I've had it for over a year and it's only showing minor signs of wear. When it wears out I'll just cut a new one.
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Nice dude! That looks killer!
Thanks man! It hasn't been an overnight job that's for sure! Bet you hardly recognized it huh?!
-Colby
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That's what I did on my 99, too. Though, I pulled the plate off, drilled a 1" hole, threw a grommet in there, and used that.
I can't wait to see it, dude!
Here r pics of the rack which I'm sure you meant Dan but I was talking bout the firewall hole I drilled for the power for the rack ya know hehe.
-Colby
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ok, so the rack is up, and the lights are attached to it. I ran the wires through the roof easily enough, and I understand how to wire it up correctly.
So that being said.....How do I route the wires through the firewall? Do I need to take apart the dash to do this?
Please say there is an easier way.
I ran power through my firewall via a small hole I drilled for the main power on my rack lights and stereo amps. I drilled on the passenger side of the engine compartment close to some brake lines. I used a small plastic type grommet. I pretty much chose here because it was one of the only places easily drilled also because it came out in the best spot for me. No taking apart of the dash for me for that step but for installing switches or wiring it to a switch requires different degrees of "dash removal". So to answer your question no, unless you want to put in switches or something like that...
I tried taking photos but they didn't turn out very good because it's too dark. I'll take pics tomorrow and post em up for ya.
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Congrats man that is a sweet pic!
-Colby
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Thanks for all the compliments guys it means a lot to me!
Cool, well I'll do a write up hopefully tonight.
I'm running the maxi alty with a way bigger than stock battery and haven't had any issues thus far. I'll think it will handle them just fine.
-Colby
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Thanks for the pics guys! ... well... looks like I am gonna do some drillin! hehehehehe.
I will post a pic after I do it this saturday.
Good luck! Believe me I was nervous as hell to take the plunge and drill the roof out but take your time and everything will work out and hey if you have probs you've always got the AWESOME people here on this forum who are always willing to help.
WOW, that thing looks sweet man, really it does. It's one of my favorites now, love the black and dark gray. Especially the wheels and nismo sticker.Thanks man! I've really been putting a lot of work into this beast so guess the fruits are finally paying off eh.
-Colby
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holy @!*% 14? damn i only see 6 where are the otyheres hiding at?
I've got 4 straight out the front, 2 on the sides up close to the front for seeing things on the sides or whatever, 2 in the back for backin up of course, 2 on LED's on the sides in the back for long uses at the camp site without draining the battery, 4 more LED's facing in for loading or whatever I use em as running lights..
I did all the work myself. I cut ABS plastic to mount the LED's in and cut then welded vengeful's (dan) old rack stripped it painted tons and tons of prep.
You think anyone would be interested in me doing a write up? Because if you think people would like it I'll do one. I took pictures from day one til today.
-Colby
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looks good man I also like your new sig picture truck looks way different now! I like the stealth look thats what im trying to do. I took my mud tires off for now and put the stock tires on and am going to paint them black should be all black now i just need tint! Great idea for foglights though guys!
Ha thanks man! I've been working on this rack for weeks getting it prepped and it took me DAYS to wire it! I've got 14 lights on it... overkill?! I don't think so!
I was thinking about doing a write up on it, I took pictures the whole way through.
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you can install diff drop bushings to lower your diff slightly and thus reduce some of that angle. the diff will still be out of harms way after the bushings are installed.
I've never heard of these either... hmmm time for me to
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got a part number so I can rub their stupid noses in it?
Lights on top?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Well anyone that's interested I've finished my write up and posted it in the garage ha maybe it'll make it to the how to section. That't be SWEET!
Here's a link if you're lazy.
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21725
-Colby