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colbywan

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Posts posted by colbywan

  1. I don't get the hype about HID lights. My mom's maxima has them factory, and while they are great most of the time, when it rains the color temp of the light makes it really hard to see.

     

    Are you talking about an older pre-projector style headlight maxima, because then I could understand what u mean.

     

    Otherwise a proper HID setup is FAR superior in every way to halogen. Especially during inclement weather.

     

    -Colby

  2. Sure, If you have an open you just need to swap out the side gears and spider gears from your pathy.

    In my LSD thread you will see some tips for getting the 3rd apart, take apart the diff like I did mine and swap your internals. then re- assemble your 4.9 open in the same housing the 4.9 was in using my writeup and you will not have to re-align the ring and pinion.

    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29793&view=findpost&p=565021&hl=&fromsearch=1

     

     

    I have a limited slip in mine now, it's not open.

     

    Can I still swap parts?

  3. OH and the 33 splines use larger seals...

     

    You could swap the whole X axle. Lotta work but if your skilled and that determined go for it. you could go lazy and swap the leaf suspension :( that's the easiest way but .... :(

    Maybe call ARB and see if you can just swap out the splined part of the locker?

     

    Hmmm.... Ok, thanks for you input MY1PATH I really appreciate it! :beer:

     

     

    -Colby

  4. unfortunately the Locker is the reason It will NOT work. The LOCKER is 33 spline and your pathy is 31.

    The X axles are too long for the pathy.

    The rest would be easy.

     

    ShiZz!! So there's not much else I can do then eh? How creative would I have to get to get this to work? So the complete axle is to long to re-weld all the brackets from my axle, or is that just to much of a PITA??

  5. I have a 94 pathfinder with LSD. I found for sale used a complete H233B rear axle from a first gen xterra 4.9 with an ARB locker. I am hoping that there is a way to buy this axle complete and take the third member or certain parts and use it with axle or my carrier and be able to use the locker?? :shrug: This is the ratio i REALLY want and the locker is a HUGE bonus!! I already bought a ring and pinion 4.9 from a member here for the front and this would totally ROCK if I could get this to work for the rear. Is the only way to use these parts to take the axle and weld my brackets on to it and bolt up the entire swapped axle to my pathy.

     

    I've been searching and found this it kinda helps.

     

    http://forums.nicoclub.com/all-you-needed-to-know-about-nissan-axles-through-2004-t233955.html

     

    Does anyone out there know their xterra's well enough to help me with this?

     

    Thanks everyone!

    :beer:

     

    -Colby

  6. X2. The front end can really affect the rear. Get your front end evened up, and it should bring the rear right back into spec, or damn near.

     

     

    Okay, guess I should trust my gut more often. I just start to over think things ya know. It's funny cause I noticed the front first. Then I noticed the rear looked worse so I started thinking maybe it was the culprit. It drives like total crap this way that's for sure.

     

    -Colby

  7. Maybe your right torsion bar is sagged. 4x4pathy94 had the same problem. He had the jgc springs too and the front being a hair lower really affected the rear too.

     

     

    Ya know Adam, I was thinking that too kinda because the guy who did my alignment said my torsion bars were off (and I was like what the? because I was pretty dang sure they were even) and so he adjusted one. But the way it makes the rear look I just keep going back to the idea that it can't be the front bringing down the rear that much. But who knows hopefully it is. I made an appointment ot go back to the alignment guy Tue @ 9 so we'll see what he says.

     

    -Colby

  8. I just noticed that my pathfinder is leaning big time to the passenger side. I first thought it was the front end but the more I looked into it I'm thinking it is in the rear passenger side. I've got JGC coils that I've had for a long time and I was thinking maybe that one side is just sagging from being old and over used ya know so I pulled them both out marked them then swapped them to the opposite side. The sag / lean in still there on the same side??? I just had the alignment done and told them to check every bushing ball joint and maintanable part. They said everything was great. I had all the rear trailing arm bushings replace about a year or so ago and I've replaced just about everything imaginable in front. My frame doesn't appear to have any frame rot at all. The spring hats looked fine, I can't find any evidence of a broken part any where under there. I'm at a loss, the only thing I can think of is that maybe the frame is bent? But I looked at the frame over and over and it looks fine and there are no indications of a bend or anything like that.

     

    IDEAS!?

     

    This is a pic from my cell phone. I can get better pics if needed. I measured the difference between the drive side rear and passenger side rear and it's close to just under 2".

     

     

    970646753_Qx3vt-XL.jpg

     

     

     

     

    -Colby

  9. My ECU fried exactly the same way. Tab broke off and fried the whole deal.

     

     

    Are you serious?? The round aluminum dial used to adjust the computer broke just like mine, wow what a coincedence! I would've thought it was a one in a million thing there but I guess more like a 2 in a million haha.

     

    How did you fix it, just replace ECU?

     

    -Colby

  10. Thanks for all the support fellas! I'd like to think that anyone of us in that same scenario would've done the same thing. :)

     

     

     

    Tungsten - Great idea, I had thought of that as a possibility as well.

    GG - I will do just that as soon as I get back from Alaska. I'm leaving tomorrow @ 3 for a week long fishing excursion. I'm so excited I can't even tell ya. :fireworx:

     

    -Colby

  11. Did you get a whole new ECU, or actually replace just the resistor in your old one?

     

    I had contemplated getting only a new resistor but the circuit board looks pretty burnt and the resistor is far to burned to read what ohm and watt it was. I figured I'd get a new ECU and keep this one as a back up.

     

    -Colby

  12. Okay, well I decide to take the family on a little up in the mountains excursion using with our little pup (pop up trailer). I did everything I thought I could do to prepare for an mild off road trip. I changed the oil, put better tires up front, had the alignment fixed (again!!), got the truck inspected and passed emissions blah blah blah, checked all fluids, changed the air filter, filler her up with PREMIUM, and I even washed the ol girl. So I thought everything was golden. I decided since it was my first trip with the pup I had better take a bunch of tools for whatever I could foresee ya know.

     

    Everything is going great, the truck is towing better than normal. We get to the cabin camp for a night drop the trailer and decide to run to town for some baby stuff. On our way back about half way up the dirt road to the cabin while driving over a real bad washboard the truck just dies. Great no phone service here either. :( I start trying to eliminate the possible issues. First I check all fuses. They're all great. Then I check for spark, seems like there isn't any at all. I decided to check for fuel pressure too just for the heck of it and that definitely wasn't the problem. So I started thinking, hmm what could cause a lack of spark. The coil gone bad or what? Then I realized this fowl smell emanating from the cabin coming from directly under the passenger front seat. Uh oh that doesn't smell good, it smells just like burnt electronics and if any of you have ever smelled this it is VERY distinct and unmistakable. And we all know what resides under the front passenger seat, the ECU.

     

    So by now my wife and 11 month old baby have just been picked up by some very nice folks to be take back to camp (no phone service) and to get help from the fam. I decided since I'm stuck might as well take the seat out and see if I can see anything obviously wrong with the computer. Nope I can't see a thing except that I am now 100% positive that that is where the smell is coming from.

     

    By now a couple uncles show up and tow me back up the hill to camp, there I decide to delve deeper into the heart of the ECU and this is what I found. A fried resistor!! Oh shi#!! You'll never in a million years guess why there is a fried resistor either. Well I'll tell ya, a long long long time ago I noticed that the little toggle switch used to check and clear codes half of it kind of fell off or for some reason went missing. I had no idea it fell inside. It must've had the perfect storm of bounces from the washboardy road sending it flying right into the perfect spot to short out the ECU. I think it landed on one half of that load resistor and the other half of a diode that has a + connector right by it.

     

    Anyways that is what happened causing the ECU to stop functioning all together. So now I'm thinking I am really screwed. The truck is dead, I'm up here a couple hundred miles away with the family and a pup trailer. I mean talk about weird luck, the ECU basically fried itself I mean that piece had been in there forever ya know. So I'm thinking about how to get a new ECU and how to get one fast so I didn't miss work on Monday and I'm coming up blank. So I thought well maybe there's a possibility I can fix it? So I rip it out of the truck and start tinkering. I thought hmm I wonder if I could just jump a wire over the burnt part and at least get it running I mean what's the worst that could happen, fry the ECU worse?? So I cut a piece of wire from the trailer and splice it in the bypass the burnt part put the ECU back under the seat and get in then VIOLA! It FREAKING WORKED! No way, I can't believe that I actually got it running lol. Isn't that crazy?? That it actually was okay with bypassing the part it fried I mean I could've been so much more effed. So I ended up driving it all the way back and for 3 days til I got a new one lol! In fact I can't tell any difference what so ever, although i'm sure this isn't a permanent fix. I would imagine it would eventually fail due to the over voltage from the lack of load resistor.

     

    Here's a couple pics.

     

    950995645_3BpFD-XL.jpg

    951012064_rwQ5t-XL.jpg

    950995778_XzNNq-XL.jpg

  13. I have only towed a few times with the Pathy so I don't have much input other than to show the other side of the arguement.

     

    837130304_CLyWL-L.jpg

     

    http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23849&view=findpost&p=482234

     

    B

     

     

    Hey that thing looks familiar. Yeah I tow that trailer everyday about 25 miles each way. The pathy does pretty ok it's the headwinds that kill the ol girl haha otherwise it does round 70+ no prob. I haven't noticed any problems what so ever from the supposed short wheel base. I thought the wheel base was just fine for towing I mean it's not going to do well with a huge load but what SUV does aren't bigger trucks for that kinda stuff. As long as your realistic it's just fine for towing. Plus my pathy has 32's a heavy as hell bumper a wind brake safari style rack a speaker box and eveything else I lug around and that trailer isn't empty I'll say that much. I'd say it's somewhere over 2000 lbs at least with all my painting / remodeling gear inside.

     

    -Colby

  14. Happy Birthday guys!! :beer:

     

    Colbywan, may you have a peaceful and zombieless birthday.

     

    B

     

     

    Lmao! Actually to be honest I went to see Zombieland today for the first time and it was AWESOME. So there was some zombie action goin on :laugh:

     

    Thanks alot guys! :beer:;

     

    -Colby

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