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rc_cola_j

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Posts posted by rc_cola_j

  1. I honestly have no idea. I would start with the service manual rather than a more generic list that looks to be geared more towards GM products anyway.

     

    Pre-round dash WD21s didn't have a BPT valve. This was added (and apparently carried over to the R50) to shut the main EGR valve when exhaust backpressure rose (basically turning off the EGR when the engine is loaded). That doesn't sound like it would change idle, but for some reason it did when you unhooked it. Having looked at the manual again, I would be more inclined to suspect the EGRC solenoid valve (which lets the computer shut down the EGR at idle or high revs), but that doesn't explain why unhooking the BPT would change anything. Then again, I'm looking at the '95 manual, and Nissan may well have changed the operation of the 3.3's EGR.

     

    Again, download the appropriate year of the service manual, find the EF&EC section, and look up how the EGR is supposed to work. Somewhere in there you should find descriptions of the parts, their location, and how they're hooked together. If you're running the original vac lines, probably best to replace those, they do dry out over time and new line is cheap. Poke around, take stuff apart, try to rule things out, eventually you'll either stumble onto the issue (like I did with the rotted hose) or rule everything else out.

    You and I are thinking along the same lines. I was planning on replacing the lines this weekend........I did look at them today....the vacuum line on the manifold side of the BPT valve seems to have a restrictor in it, sot of looks and feels like a little ball bearing, but it has a tiny hole in it....it is passing a vacuum signal. Q..is this normal? Could this be a mistake that a mechanic made on previous work?

     

    Also....there is a metal line running from the EGR back to the bottom of the BPT valve. Is it worth a try to take this off and spray some seafoam inside both the EGR and the BPT valve?

     

    Do you guys use any chemical that could safety clean the EGR and the housing it self?

    Seafoam?

     

     

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  2. Interesting that the BPT seems to be acting up. I remember the one on my '95 had a short rubber hose at the bottom (where exhaust pressure joins up) that was dry-rotted and had a big hole in the back. It looked fine until I removed the valve and could see the back. I would start by checking that. IIRC the service manual has procedures to test the valves manually, most likely in the EF&EC section.

     

     

    ... so that's what BPT stands for. Thanks for clearing that up!

    I don't actually know what component of the EGR system is the issue. I just know disconnecting the Vacuum line between the BPT and EGR valve eliminates the rough idle problem.

     

    I'm trying to understand the EGR system and have been doing some reading. I came across and article (http://www.aces.edu/~parmega/efi/egr.txt)......in it it says that there are a few different types of systems based on how the BPT works

    d4919d5bddd66d4fcf9484167401440f.jpg

     

    Question.....which type would apply to the R50 Pathfinders?

     

     

     

     

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  3. So I'm doing a lot of reading online......how do I properly diagnose my EGR issue?

     

    What's going on is that once the engine warms up it begins to 'lope' at idle......as though it has a small vacuum leak.

     

    If I disconnect and plug the vacuum lines between the EGR valve and the EGR Backpressure Transducer. It runs fine.

     

    How do I tell if it is the EGR valve itself sticking open or if it is the EGR BPT? Or is it an Aspect of the EGR?

     

     

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  4. I'm getting sad.

     

    I can't get to it for a little while......can probably live with a rough idle until then, or just disconnect it.

     

    In the mean time I'll put some penetrating oil on the threads and such

     

     

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  5. Sigh. Guess I have another project to add to my list.

     

    It seems like the EGR would be a be a time consuming thing to remove. Eh?

     

     

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  6. In an effort to diagnose my problem (and on the advice of a friend) I took some spare wires with alligator clip ends and re-grounded the body to the negative terminal, the engine to the negative terminal, and the engine to the body.

     

    I'm keeping my fingers crossed but I haven't thrown any of the codes since. Am going to give it some time though. Perhaps all I needed to do was clean up my ground connections.

     

     

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  7. Got my Ebay LED 20 in bar yesterday and today got the guys at a marine factory to make up a bar mount.

    It was a serious piece of equipment, a solid 10mm thick aluminium bar a bit over a couple a feet long.

    Offered to throw in a six pk of beer but they said no, so got it for free! Can't wait to get home and see if it all fits.

    Can you post pics?

     

     

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  8. So there is a service notice out for the o2 sensors on my model year. It says to replace the sensors and also flash the ECU with updated software.

     

    I went back through the service records for my pathfinder, one o2 sensor was replaced in 2006.....but no mention of whether the ECU was updated.

     

    I called the dealership on the mainland where the vehicle was serviced in the past. They said the only way to tell would be to do a full diagnostic for $125!! This would tell them what software version is running and potentially what's going on.......but it may also be $125 to tell me not much.

     

    There has to be an easier way.

     

    Is there an easier way?

     

     

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  9. It's like night and day to be honest....however Both my from struts and rear shocks were dead when I bought the pathy......don't have much to compare it to in terms of stock. I was planning on getting Fleury's spacers for the rear to improve the rake.......I'm hesitant to do the front for fear of wearing the CV's. When I have $$ I will look into the best approach in more detail.

     

    Somehow managed to swindle a 21" cree curved led light bar from a friend this morning.....brand new in box for $70!!! Question is, where to mount it?

     

     

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  10. I'm kind of limited to my gas choices where I live. It's a small island with one gas station.

     

    The 140 and 160 codes are "no voltage" on bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2.....both after the catalytic converter.

     

    Same goes for 138 and 158, except it is a "high voltage" problem.

     

    Still not sure what is going on here.

     

     

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  11. Well, had the suspension done. OME medium duty in the rear, OME heavy duty on the front with Rancho shocks and struts.

     

    So happy with the lift gained and the ride quality!

     

    Didn't have the money for spacers, but will probably go that route in the spring.

     

    c62f8d853bc12847ae45593d40b73b67.jpg

     

    1f4b3e72388a3cfd574f3eb57f67e7fc.jpg

     

     

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    • Like 1
  12. My vehicle is a 2000 SE

     

    I have intermittently over the last 2 weeks been throwing two different sets of codes. It's either P0140+P0160......which I will clear using an OBD2 reader. I cal then drive around for a few days then I will have those come back or throw a different set of P0138+P0158. Clear them and drive around some more and one of the two sets come back again.

     

    What's going on here? What are the chances that two post catalytic 02 sensors would go at once? Could it be a grounding issue or exhaust leak? Will these sensors affect fuel economy?

     

     

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  13. Yes, I saw the same thing noted.

     

    What I am curious about is whether or not this bracket is required for the struts or the springs? I am just doing the springs on mine.

     

    I can't figure out what this fitting kit is either.

     

     

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  14. Just pulling the trigger on ordering new springs for my 2000 SE.

     

    Am going with OME springs. Just curios what exactly the 'fitting kit' (SMP638) does or is for? Is it for fitting the springs or the OME struts? So, if I am just going for the springs, do I need to order this?

     

     

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