Jump to content

rc_cola_j

Members
  • Posts

    235
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Posts posted by rc_cola_j

  1. Hey all.

     

    So I was bragging to my mechanically inclined buddy about how I just rolled over to 300,000k.

     

    He started going on about carbon buildup in high mileage engines......he is suggesting that the best way to clean the carbon buildup is to suck some water up through a vacuum line and 'steam cleaning' the internal workings. This was a new idea to me. So I googled.

     

    Apparently some say it works wonders, some say it's better to suck seafoam in over water, and some say it is a myth.

     

    I thought I'd put it to the forum and see what you all thought of this method?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. Yes. But first i need to finalize my garage in order to bring those.

     

    Bullet proof trailing arms, full skids and tougher half shafts are some of my immediate ideas i will be working on...

     

    Cheers

    Fleury.....what's your ETA for getting back up and running?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. I had a similar issue last fall. Shut-down and wouldn't start......replaced the distributor. Worked great for a week then it died again and had a no start issue. Turned out to be a faulty camshaft position sensor.

     

    Can you see if the ECU is showing any codes?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. I'll never use KYB struts again..Check out how long I've been on this forum...I'm about to replace my 2nd set....I don't thing they like the cold. or maybe my lift and wheel spacers.? the hard part is finding a OME (ARB) distributor in Canada...I found a local guy who does JDM (Toyota) diesel to french fry grease conversions who is an ARB dealer. and is willing to import some OME struts for me. pricing was similar to Rugged rocks. I let you know how they work out....my reasoning that they will be better is that they are valved for a lifted vehicle and are off road designed. not just highway cruising.

     

    the only other option is rancho but they are hard to find.

    check these guys out....http://krazyhousecustoms.com/i-23060633-rancho-rs5000-series-suspension-strut-assembly-rs5814.html

    I think I found a distributor in Toronto who has these as well but I can' t find the link.

     

    3rd option would be Tough Dog out of Australia but they only have one distributor in Colorado and they haven't gotten back to me yet on prices....

    I had my front struts replaced when I bought my pathfinder last spring. Had a mechanic do it, he said it was a factory equivalent replacement. Well, I have blown said replacement 3 times since. Each time the swap in a new one under warranty.......which is fine, but overall I'm not happy with the ride in the front.

     

    What upset you so badly about the KYBs? They seem to be half the price of the OME......still, I want to make the right decision here

  5. You can remove the oil pressure sensor and tap into the threads there. I am not familiar with where the oil filter is on the R50 but the sensor should be nearby.

    The filter is tucked up above the skid plate. I'll pull the skid plate off in the morning and have a look.

     

    Once tapped in, what is a good "range" for the oil pressure to be in?

  6. I've noticed that my "idiot light" is flickering more and more after start up. When it started a months ago it was less than a second.....now it does it for a good 3-5 seconds.

     

    How do I go about testing the oil pump?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. Yup, that plunger on the right is your throttle opener, it holds the throttle slightly open at startup......it's another one of those things the repair manual says not to adjust.

     

    I did notice that my throttle is sticking shut now. Will tweak it a bit and see what happens

     

    Thanks for helping. I'm going to fiddle with it some more

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Thanks Precise1. I'm going to try each approach and see how it drives and runs.

     

    Have completed option 1 this morning she seems to be running well.

     

    I'm taking all of my tools with me so I can readjust to option 2 after a couple hundred km

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. It's not the fast idle cam. It's the throttle stop screw.....the manuals say nothing more about this screw than "Do Not Adjust"

     

    And yes.....the method for setting the idle speed is very straight forward.

     

    My question was how to adjust the throttle stop screw back to where it should be so that I can continue on and set the idle properly afterwards

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  10. Sooo, I had a friend of mine offered to give me a tune-up and a glance over before going on a long road trip in exchange for venison. I took him up on it. Well, you know that little stop screw on the throttle body that the service manuals say to NEVER TOUCH.....he touched it.

     

    Long story short.......vehicle is running and idling properly for now.....in fact my EGR issue disappeared....., but I'm wanting to make sure it is set properly.

     

    What is the proper procedure???

     

    I have come across two different methods in my googling....

     

    #1 unplug TPS, bring idle up to 600-650rpm with the stop screw. Then bring base idle up to 700 +/- 50 rpm with IAC adjustment.

     

    #2 unplug TPS. Adjust stop screw until it 'just kisses' the throttle......adjust base idle up to 700 +- 50rpm it's IAC adjustment.

     

    Which (if any) is right?

     

    I have a week to figure this out. I really appreciate you all helping me out. I have learned a lot since buying my pathfinder and joining this forum. Thanks!

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. This sounds exactly like the trouble I was having. Thought it was a misfire with no code....replaced plugs, wires and distributor. No luck.

     

    Turns out it's the EGR. I disconnected vacuum line to the EGR valve and plugged the line with a roofing nail. Problem went away.

     

    Hooked it back up, problem came back.

     

    Try it and let me know what happens.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

×
×
  • Create New...