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rc_cola_j

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Posts posted by rc_cola_j

    P0420 freeze frame data

    in The Garage

    Posted

    what do the fuel trims tell you in relation to the O2 sensors. A high Negative value means the ECU is cutting fuel so you might have a leaking injector...that was my problem. A high + positive value means an un metered air leak. use some brake keen or something to spray around the intake manifold while the engine is running., you'll know right away if there is a vacuum leak.

    I'm looking at short term trim values or long term?

     

     

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    P0420 freeze frame data

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So I got up a little early today, warmed up the car and ran the engine at 2500-3000rpm for a few minutes. Then watched the O2 sensor values in the scan tool.

     

    For the most part, they all look normal. However, Sensor 1 Bank 1 periodically spikes up anywhere from 1.8 to 2.3V....what could be causing this?

     

     

    P0420 freeze frame data

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So the stft and the ltft are: Short Term Fuel Trim and Long Term Fuel Trim respectively and B1 and B2 are bank 1 and 2 meaning left and right side of the engine. The fuel trim numbers are the air fuel ratio that the ECU is making. + numbers mean more fuel to air and - numbers mean less fuel to air.. Ideally the air /fuel mix should be something like 14.7 to 1. on the scan tool closer to zero is best. Short term means every few seconds. Long term is over minutes or hours. that number shouldn't change very often though the STFT will change every second or so. If you have High + numbers like 20% or more could indicate a vacuum leak as more air is in the system for the ECU to mix in enough gas. High - numbers could mean a fuel leak. ( I had this twice with leaking injectors that killed my Cat)

     

    Cal % load...is how hard the engine is working in your case 54%

    fuel sys...CL means closed loop..

    ETC is engine temperature in degree Celsius 84 is good that is operating temp.

    MAP kpa is air pressure into the engine in KILO Pascals.

    RPM is well RPM

     

    all of this looks pretty normal to me....

    I'd be checking electrical issues related to missfire

    hope this helps

     

    Dude, thanks.

     

    Misfire? Bad Cat converters?

     

     

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    P0420 freeze frame data

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    After changing my O2 sensors last week, I'm now randomly throwing a P0420 code. Below is the FF data. Can anyone interpret this? I've read that if the fuel trim is low it could be a fuel injector or fuel pressure regulator problem....if it's too high I could have a vacuum leak. But I don't know what I'm really looking at here....thoughts?

     

    e7684b1beacb4acef825b73ade89a752.jpg

     

    c06cf52ca196f667f2214c8afe4742a0.jpg

     

    8167a0803a0645c0bed8b8cf97a27202.jpg

     

    9aad413f4dd631993c2e81c300093a1c.jpg

     

     

     

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    #6

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Or be lucky and have a couple factory tool kits at your disposal

     

    But seriously if it hasn't been removed in a while it's a major PITA!

     

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

    I got it swapped.....took a while. It's the angle and lack of visibility. Jesus.

     

    While doing spark plug yoga on top of the engine, I somehow managed to do something to my Throttle Position Sensor.....threw a P0120 right away....no signal at any of the terminals on the TPS. I have no idea what I did.

     

    But, a 45 minute drive to town at 15km/hr got me a new one at the auto parts store.

     

    What a week.

     

     

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    • Like 2

    Possibly a dumb question.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    RC may not know what it's truly supposed "feel" like. He, like the rest of us, probably bought the truck used.

     

    Mine was 3 y/o w/72000 K on it(possibly a lease return). I drove Marvin for the 1st time and it was Metallic Sherwood Green, ARE U KIDDING ME?!?!?! I was in love! I fondly remember that memory but that was 14 y/ago. Hence the massive referbishment of him now.

     

    He's acquired "Town Truck" status as he scares me on the hwy now.

     

    Id say R is right & L is left...sitting in the drivers seat. My perception. Is there a standard when it comes to this. An ISO 9003somethinerother Global law. If so, WHAT THE HELL IS IT??? Anyone??

     

     

    I did buy the Pathy used.....She is my second vehicle.....my first was a 1980 Ford F250. That was so easy to work on compared to this vehicle. I grew up in a big city and didn't even start driving until my later 20s which were just a few years ago. I have no idea what something is supposed to feel like. Hence why I'm worried about asking dumb questions, lol

     

    My front end feels loose...like there is lots of play in it. I've been trying to track down a rattle as well.....I though I had it when I found the sway bar bushings were missing. I swapped new ones in. the ride got better, but still loose and rattly.

    Possibly a dumb question.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    What year Pathfinder? I'm only familiar with the wd21's IFS. If your talking about just your shock absorbers (or dampeners) then it shouldn't matter either way. If it's a MacPherson strut then they usually have a right and left. If you haven't noticed a difference in ride or tire wear I wouldn't worry about it. Take it with a grain of salt until someone else chimes in.

     

     

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    It's 2000 R50

     

    The struts are in on the proper side. It's just the mounts at the top where they attach to the body that I'm concerned about. I think they are also called strut bearings?

     

     

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    Possibly a dumb question.

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So, I changed all 4 O2 sensors today. Was getting P0138 and P0158 codes randomly....managed to only lose one set of pliers in the engine bay, so I'd say it was a success!

     

    Anyways, while I was crawling about in there, I noticed that my right strut mount has a big "L" on it. As well, my left strut mount has a big "R" on it. How bad is this?

     

    I had my struts and a lot of other stuff replaced in the fall....what would this mistake result in?

     

    Sorry if this is a dumb question, I'm learning here.

     

     

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    Want your thoughts..

    in General Forums

    Posted

    So, what I would do is find yourself another VG33E block and go through it, top to bottom (I'm sure there are some aftermarket parts available), but specifically focus on porting/polishing the heads, any valve upgrades available and installing upgraded cams. Smooth out your intakes and exhaust manifolds, consider high flow cats, but definitely go with a after market/custom cat back exhaust. When your old motor tires/fails, swap the waiting one in with mostly stock components, and enjoy a fresh motor that performs 10-20% over stock.

     

    For road vehicles that has always been my strategy: Stock motor (maybe cam replacement) and peripherals (unless there is an inhibiting/fail prone component) for reliability, and then make it breathe like a cheetah and fart like an ox. Just think of an engine as a self driven air pump; as long as it has sufficient fuel, all it wants is all the air it can draw and not having it backed up on the way out. Oversimplification, but you get the point.

     

    You might want to consider setting all of this up and then doing the swap on your own schedule. Not only is it more convenient, but then you have a running motor to sell... ;)

    BTW, unless you are extraordinarily hard on vehicles, you shouldn't be having issues. The VG series is known for 250k miles (400k km) without major issue at norm; we have a 1999.0 with 300k km that runs flawlessly.

     

    B

    Beauty, thanks.

     

    Just curious, would a vg33ER fit?

     

     

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    Want your thoughts..

    in General Forums

    Posted

    His "was" a VERY rusty '96. ICBC wanted an inspection for it to be insured in BC...he said, screw it and bought another PF ('99) for $1200.

    Oh, don't get me started on ICBC and their cash-grabbing standards.

     

     

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    Want your thoughts..

    in General Forums

    Posted

    Morning RC, another beautiful day in paradise, hey? May I suggest the following factors: budget, time your Pathy will be out of commission, availability of parts/tools & equipment req'd, how long the "Boss" will tolerate having yer truck expoded all over the place-lol(wife's ability to ask "Soooo, how long is this going to take?", when I'm balls deep into a project is uncanny). The diesel option WOULD be cool, but I have NO idea how many systems would req complete change out or modification and subsequent availability of repair parts down the road.

     

    There is someone on this forum (will find out who, ina bit) who is currently upgrading his dead(he drowned it in mud)VG33 to a VG35 and has a "progress" thread on the go right now(saw it the other day) with great pics and commentary on issues he's run into. It may be a little eye opening for you- I know it was for me. As I recall he's in Georgia cuz I noticed the bright red color of the mud-Lotsa iron oxide in the soil, where he lives.

     

    I just PU'd a 2002 with a broken pass axle for $1K, body is in great shape...has a few minor things to fix as well. $130 for the tow from Coquitlam to Cloverdale. Found a removed & complete rear diff assy(180, K) in MR for $200(hoping gear ratio is the same, find out today), buddy's garage to do it all in-$0-PRICELESS!, just so I can have something to drive while Marvin(my green '01) gets all the new upgrade bits it so deserves. I will start a new build thread when that commences.

     

    I'll let you ponder the preceeding comments....enjoy the rest of this fabulous long weekend!

    Thanks man! You have it right, another absolutely beauty day in paradise. Might go do a little fishing today!

     

    Right now I'm trying to cost each option out....it's a repair or replace, and if replace, do so with what game right now.....just looking at numbers.

     

    If I go with the replace option, more towing ability would be nice. I towed a trailer this weekend, a 1100 pound BBQ trailer, it towed fairly well except for the climb up the hill from town was a struggle. I am eyeing a camping trailer down the line.

    8e6b19d2f5f03bb5c3e4bc25c8eeb603.jpg

     

    Just want to see what ideas all of you have on engine swaps etc.

     

     

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    Want your thoughts..

    in General Forums

    Posted

    So, my OCD is having me sit here planning out future engine repairs to my 2000 R50. I love this vehicle!

     

    I'm facing the possibility over the next year of oil pump, timing belt/water pump/distributor, possibly a head gasket (am losing coolant+a little sludge under the oil cap)....those are the major, the minor work to the engine is longer, but more general upkeep at 315,000km and over.

     

    Rebuilt engines don't seem to be that expensive....what are your thoughts? Repair or replace? What engine? Currently I'm running a VG33E...go for an VG33ER? A 3.5L?.....I had one friend suggest converting to diesel, another suggest dropping a chevy V6 in.

     

    What are your thoughts?

     

     

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    Get a snorkel..

    in General Forums

    Posted

    If you wheel and get around water/mud you need a snorkel. I was under the fallacy that snorkels are unnecessary and are for the desert/dust. That's wrong.. I went through a mud hole that turned out to have very deep ruts making it deeper than I thought and my engine is now toast...

     

    If you are wheeling you vehicle then a snorkel is your first upgrade. It is sheer luck I didn't kill my vehicle before since in been in deeper than this one before and she was fine. Water hits that box in the bumper the right way and your going to get a big drink of water and a mountain of trouble...

     

    That's my rant. You need a snorkel. I'll make a thread with my engine swap when I get started...

     

     

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    Any other pros (or cons) of a snorkel?

     

     

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    Have a cool idea for led lightbar placement

    in General Forums

    Posted

    It will probably take some good modification, but if I can find one the correct size I'm going to try and fit some in the 3 front face hood vents on my 2 door. b8c91a9348f50bc7b60236acc69b357f.jpg As far as I can tell they are cosmetic vents made from plastic. Just gotta find some single row lights 1"x10" if they even exist. Clearance is tight in there, I'll have to cut some metal and make sure there is enough for shutting the hood without hitting the lights, or mount the lights into the hood itself. I think it would bad ass with 3 skinny lights like that above my existing HID's.

     

     

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    Here's what I did......4db71e1675e0b53ba0d64d33731183d0.jpg

     

     

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    Light Bars

    in General Forums

    Posted

    A few of you have asked for contact info for the guy I bought my light bar from (see photo).

    a29cc74156597e306d162c368e9f36bc.jpg

     

    His name is Aviv Barkay. Great guy to deal with. He ships right away, no hassles. Info below.

     

    9e4760e1d8ad2f70e915da38a28631bf.jpg

     

     

     

     

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