BendRed
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Posts posted by BendRed
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Precise1 is right about the filter but you'll be ok this time around if you have already installed it.
Your pretty much golden with ANY filter other then FRAM - even most auto parts stores house brand .
Oh and don't forget to check you spark plug gaps before installing.
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Ok , removed it , cleaned it and resealed it with teflon glue and some ... Right Stuff .
That Right Stuff is the BOMB!
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I've heard that referred to as a welch plug. Seen a few leaking over the years including mine. They can be really difficult to remove. If you can get it out reseal it with a liquid Teflon sealant. If you can't get it out (forgive me please guys!) Seal it with JB weld.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Thanx for the input .
I will not hold that advice against ya ... necessity is the mother of invention
Love the avatar BTW .
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Funny how people will change a timing belt and leave the seals/tensioner alone...
I go in and change EVERYTHING, if I plan to keep the vehicle, that is. It isn't that much more work or cost, and who wants to wonder where the oil is coming or change the T-belt AGAIN when the water pump fails...
Two points:
I didn't see thermostat bypass hose on the list. Make sure to change it when you are there, it is a biatch to get to otherwise.
The 1993.5 on up timing belt with the rounded teeth are rated to 105k miles, not the 60k of the square ones, so don't change it prematurely.
Congrats on having one of the few WD21s out there that have less miles than mine. If it doesn't make it to 250k+ miles, your son either flogged it to death without maintenance, or crashed it. I hope for neither, and seeing another 500k Pathy on the forums...
You do know about overfilling the tranny? 5.1 liters is recommended, check out the Garage/TSB section for the thread.
B
I always change the T belt when it comes out - my cost is $26 for a gates belt
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btw - what is the recessed , looks like maybe 14mm allen head screw next to the right cam ?
It was completely covered in RTV that someone had placed there and had old crusty coolant all running from it .
Is that coolant pressure relief or something ?
Need to address that leak before reassembly.
Same thing Doc Bill is addressing here , halfway down in the thread - pic included
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Oh sorry .
Bypass hose is on as well as the two seals for the coolant passages attached to the bypass hose .
Also , upper and lower radiator hoses .
currently cleaning parts and the boy wants to paint the timing covers , pulleys and what not red to match his rig.
lol
thanx for heads up on the MT fluid
Radiator is currently in the tank getting cleaned and pressure tested.
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Alright all stripped down !
Timing belt , water pump , crank seal , cam seals x2 .
Yup , someone replaced the timing belt recently but tensioner was old , cam seals were leaking like a sive and water pump was hella crusty .
good call .
Time to clean up the mess
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So after procuring my sons new ride 2 weeks ago , 95 Pathfinder with 95k og miles , we decided to drive it for 100 miles and make sure there are no surprises.
Well , 107 miles later and it runs like a champ!
So , the list is as such .....
Front diff - syn fluid
rear diff - syn fluid
MT - syn fluid
power steering and brake fluid flush - syn
spark plugs
Air filter
cap and rotor
fuel filter
water pump
thermosta
timing belt and components
coolant
external belts
valve cover gaskets
camshaft seals
whew .... that should dial him in for about 60k miles
already flushed , drained and fill the motor oil
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Its either ...
1 - the copper hold down screws on the cluster circuit board
2 - bad cluster all together
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The starter was just replaced by the PO right before I bought it and I suspect they didn't disconnect the battery before removal and thats what blew it.
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BINGO!
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nice research friend
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Turbo's do run cooler plugs but with a copper plug in a turbo we find the residual heat after spark causes almost a misfire due to the copper retaining heat after the fire (spark) .
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I think I should clarify my "theory".
When using a Copper plug in a turbo charged car , it throws a CEL code .
Code is caused by the heat left on the copper plug from it not firing then cooling .
With that being said , it shows that copper plug runs/ stays hotter and in "theory" more effectively burns the gas equating into efficiently burned gas = to torque/hp .
We have tested this "theory" on numerous Asian / Euro cars with great success .
You can call BS , but it has worked for the last 5 years.
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Platinum = denser material
Copper = less dense
Remove my comment about the cold part as you are correct about the numeric range printed on the plug .
But - copper does conduct electricity much more effectively then platinum
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FYI - Platinum plugs are really only good for Turbo / supercharged cars.
Platinum = denser material = which allows it to last longer but not burn as hot = not 100% burn off of fuel in the combustion chamber = More money to purchase
Copper = less dense material = burns much hotter and burns off 100% of fuel in combustion chamber = better fuel economy and toque = less money
This test has been done NUMEROUS times on numerous vehicles in my shop .
My customers that come to me with there inline 3.0 BMW NA motors for tune ups always trip out when I implore them for copper over OEM recommended Platinum .
But once I swap them out there more then impressed.
I would have recommend a NGK copper plug
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I was amazed just how little oil capacity the 3L motor holds ... less then 4 qts!
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Oh yeah ....... plastic .... forgot about that dumb ish!
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If Im running synthetic Im running 5-7k mile oil service schedules ...... have for nearly 10 years with zero issues .
Oil filter change at the half way mark.
5w40 is fine in cold climates as the 1st number is the cold temp and the 2nd # is the warm temp.
Here in bend Oregon I use 5w40 Rotella T6 Syn in the summers and Liqui Moly 5w30 Syn in the winter ( for customer euro cars)
Asian cars ...... any proper 5w30 syn all year.
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Christ just go to the JY and grab a distributor or buy a new/rebuilt one. Don't piss around with changing the bearings the sensor will likely already be damaged. Just went through this on my Xterra. Except I didn't change every other part under the hood tracking it
Im 100% with adamzan!
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oh man ...... light at the end of the tunnel
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I use mobil 1 a lot but its still not a top tier oil .
Many oils have pro's and con's and its solely dependent upon what portions of the oil's properties are your needed/desired high points.
I spend way to much time over here talking about oil - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm
I prefer a Shell Rotella t6 or Chevron Dello in syns as they are diesel fleet formula and have the best compounds for sheer and break down properties.
They are designed for Fleet vehicles and fleet vehicles are usually a vehicle that is constantly in motion with long run times.
They also have properties that the copper crankshaft bearings of european cars need and meet euro spec oil requirements where 90% of on the shelf US sold oils do not.
Yeah I know the Nissan isn't Euro
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I don't regret any part I've replaced so far, as long as the truck goes again. Dist. cap center contact was shot, plugs were old, fuel filter was dirty, etc... all stuff I should've done anyway.
I have no clue where I would take it to get a 'professional diagnostics' done. Most garages around here I wouldn't trust with a lawnmower! The one mechanic I knew to trust died just a couple months ago (RIP, Glen) 8>/
I was a mechanic before, and despite computers, I aim to fix this. And I will, with you guys' help(!) Thanks.
Dave
Well then its a good thing thus far . Nice
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yes , Im thinking of relocating next oil change as well. Happen to have a part # for the kit and some photo's of it relocated ?
Leaking coolant
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
This question I think you just answered.
Based upon your small amount of knowledge and that you asked about taking it to a shop ....... you may just wanna take it in and at least get it diagnosed and quoted.