Jmoor85

So does this shield have a replaceable seal or do I install it just the way it is?

Got my throw out bearing cleaned up and pressed on. Belhousing all cleaned up. Nothing leaking.

Oooook. So my buddy came over and I got him up to speed on the leak situation. So we husked the transmission outside and decreased it. Found that the rubbery boot for the shifter is the cause for the leak all over the linkage. Someone has been in there before. Zip ties all over the boots. So I guess I need to just seal the boot better when I reinstall it. Second all the oil in the belhousing was motor oil so I sprayed degreaser all over that and then checked out the RMS. It IS leaking as well as the back part of the oil pan. Someone has gone in there and smeared grey RTV everywhere. It didn't work. So it looks like I will be taking off the entire RMS housing to replace the seal and then also put a new real oil pan seal down and RTV the corners. I'll post the pics from today.

Okay cool. That's a lot of good information. Right now there is two types. The red stuff in the transfer case and clear stuff in transmission. For right now I'll keep it that way until I have more time change the fluids for what I want. Right now I just want to get through this job. My blazer is majorly crapping out and won't last much longer. So I'll leave the RMS housing in place and drop the oil pan? Replace and resell oil pan? Then use a seal puller to pull out old RMS and install new one? Did I understand that correctly and in the correct order? I'm taking your word for it and it seems plausible for it to leak. I have gasket maker black RTV to use as well.

Yes. It does show to remove entire housing to replace the rear seal. So I'll rent a seal puller from oreilly or something. So you are saying the oil pan has to come off as well? Adamzan mentioned it didn't. Again this is my first and only Nissan. I've had it a couple months now and just trying to get all the bugs worked out. That is definitely motor oil in the bell housing and not gear oil. So my guess is maybe the pan was leaking. What gear oil goes back into Trans and what does the transfer case get liked with? My blazer was an automatic and took the same in both. But this Trans is manual and obviously has gear oil in it but the transfer case leaks ATF?

Here is everything that is needed to come out. I only have 20 minutes here and there to work on it at a time. So the progress is slow go. I try looking over everything from my big Nissan manual I got before I tackle it. That way I get a good idea of what I'm doing.

Yeah. I'm going to replace the rear seal. How does the oil pan get sealed there without having to come off? I see it on the exploded view but nothing about sealing it. I'll check the weep hole. Hopefully it's nothing just going to add more work to it.

Here's where some oil collected. Probably dripped down from oil filter when it was changed out.

So the rear main is not leaking a drop. I almost hate to disturb it. At first I thought it might be leaking due to all the grime in bell housing and the little shield behind flywheel. But I'm thinking it is just from oil getting slung off the starter as I do not see it anywhere near the rear seal. What are your thoughts? If it's not broke don't fix it?

From what I have read on here the 31x10.5R15 came stock on some pathfinders so you shouldn't have clearance issues. Depends on how saggy your stock suspension is. I have the same tire and wheel combo as you and will be buying 15x8 wheels for my 31x10.5R15 tires since those wheels you have are only 6" wide and while you can get those larger tires on those wheels it will cause faster wear and in even wear due to the bead getting pulled so far in which will push the center of your tire tread up and cause quick wear and tear.

Okay so the most difficult part of this job so far is getting the shifter out. The boot was riveted to the floor from factor. There is a retaining ring that the boot goes under and that ring is riveted. Then my pliers were not strong enough to get the clips out. I'll be posting some pics once I get flywheel off. Called it quits last night. Lots of oil residue in bell housing. Hoping I don't find anything too bad behind the flywheel. The clutch disc was down to the rivets. It's been bad for a while.

Hoping to only work 10 or 11 hrs today so I'll have time to drop it. I've worked 41 hrs in three days. Money is good. Plus I love paying more in taxes. I acquired a trans jack and I have my floor jack to use. I'll figure it out. I'll post pics of my findings. If I don't get it down tonight I'll do it tomorrow since I'm only scheduled to work 8 hours.

Right. When I said I think "that's" where the leak is coming from I was referring to possibly above. I might have some help tonight to drop it. I plan on cleaning it all up along with starter before installing it again so hopefully I'll get more answers. I'll post the results here and hopefully it will help someone else down the road

It's possible that's it. I am trying to find someone to help to lower this thing to take a look at it. I'll keep you posted. B the fluid in the middle of the gunk in clean looking and that spot on the tcase is clean/shiny. It did start spitting in the driveway once I started driving it. My gramps usually only drive it twice a month of so. I'm thinking a seal somewhere got dry.

Hey guys. Any idea about this leak? What's the fix for it? As you can see by the "clean" spot that it is a heavy leave and that is where it is coming from.

Yeah I tried the heat method. Stripped the bolt round. I've had a ton of success in the past on other projects. This one seems to just break bolts on every part of car. I was able to cut the bolt with the saw without messing up the flange. The blade is about the thickness of gasket so if fit in there without ruining anything and y pipe dropped down without issue. Also I'm thinking I'll have to drop transmission. I do not have a lit so sliding the Trans back will not give me enough room to get to rear main seal and pilot bushing. I'll try it but not thinking I'll be very successful.

Okay so I have both torsion bars out, both drive lines, torsion bar crossmember and everything disconnected front transmission except bell housing bolts. So now I need to try and save my exhaust. The pipes themselves are not rusted through. The little heat shields are rusted loose though. I'm thinking I can take a sawzall and cut between the y pipe flange and intermediate pipe. I'll cut the bolts in half and worse case I'll have to drill out the bolts on the threaded side and put new bolts in. The gasket should seal any potential imperfection the sawzall leaves behind. What do you think?

Thanks B. Actually that little tip on loosening the front bolts was a great help. Also what grease should I use for the splines? Also would it be the same grease suggested for throw out bearing and Trans splines?

I actually replied to your link a couple days ago so I could refer back to it. It has helped.

Okay. So I got one torsion bar off, both drive lines. Looks like I'll have to cut the exhaust off near the "Y" section and replace the piece that connects the driver side to the "Y" and replace the "y" piece.

So. I'm attempting to replace my clutch. I haven't gotten far at all. The exhaust is so rusty the bolts do not even have threads anymore. Is it a must for the exhaust to be dropped? My wallet is not prepared to pay for exhaust also. It will have to be cut out. Also I have never removed torsion bars and for the life of me can not figure out how to remove them. I took the adjust bolts out which lowers it and removed the c clips. But yeah. I must be missing something.

This is a good write up and very helpful to me as I will be doing mine on my 93. Thanks for the time you took to post this.

I do not know for sure on pathfinders but I know on my neighbors car there is a switch on the brake pedal. Theirs was burnt out. It sends a signal when pedal to pressed to the trans letting it know it can change through the gears. This might be your issue.

Wow. On all the Chevys I worked on it was an expensive job and you needed a donor vehicle. I found 7 LSD at pick N pull. Did anyone on here make a pinned topic on what's needed? I'd go grab what I needed and just keep it to the side until I got in there. I was testing out the 4x4 on the levee and it sucked having r slip and spin a tire when it was in the air before engaging the 4x4. Probably would t hardly use 4x4 if I had LSD