Jmoor85
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Posts posted by Jmoor85
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Well after trying the bagel method for about 12 seconds it work. Popped the bushing right out. IMHO DITCH THE GREASE METHOD
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I'm about ready to try that. I saw a YouTube video about three weeks ago showing the bread method.
I'll give this grease a little more time and then I'll have to take one of my wife bagels. We don't eat much bread so it's rare we have any. I told her earlier today one of her bagels might get donated. She said I'm redic.
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I can not get this damn pilot bushing out. I have rented two tools specifically for pilot pushing a but they are all too big. I am trying the grease method and it did move a very very tiny bit but it has been an hour and nothing. Anyone have any better ideas?
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I think I asked this before but do the flywheel bolts get lock tite or anything?
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Threads were thankfully not actually hit. I ran a tap in them all to make sure it would go smoothly. So now I just need to replace the pilot bushing and then start installing. Have a soccer game tomorrow and Halloween stuff but maybe I'll get a couple hours on it this weekend.
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Man, where was this tidbit last year, around this time? I pulled the housing to replace my RMS during my transmission swap. I've had an oil leak ever since.
Well I as an oil leak there already at the oil pan so I didn't have much choice. But hopefully someone who just needs a RMS replacement will be helped by this.
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Got that dang broken stud out. Found a squared extractor. I drilled the hole a little deeper and tapped that square extractor in there.
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The only pick I have broke. I tried tapping around it with a small chisel. Tried a flat head. Smallest EZ Outs I have.
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Well I totally F'd up. After installing the RMS I figured I'd tend to the driver side exhaust leak while the seal dried. In taking the manifold off I had two broken studs. Already rusty on the break. So like the passenger side they were old. Both studs are broken underneath the surface and are domed. I went in through the inner fender and tapped a mark on the stud to drill out the center. Unfortunately the drill bit walked on me and I didn't catch it soon enough. It went at a more straight angle than the angle of the stud. I was able to get a 1/16 bit in there to try and straighten out the hole. In doing this the broken stud did turn (right). So I know the stud can be backed out IF I can get something in there to bite on it. I'll try and take a pic for you. But I need ideas. I was thinking of getting some amazing glue to glue a small bolt in there or something. I couldn't sleep last night. I tried a small EZ Out but it wants to grab onto the side of the bolt hole.
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Damn. Wish I read this sooner. I installed using the ultra copper.
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There is supposed to be a gasket that comes with the RMS, for the housing. At least mine did. I just used some of that spray adhesive to hold it in place and it's been fine. Although I was stupid and didn't replace the oil pan one the first time around.
Hey if I can learn from someone else' mistake then I will. Lmao. I really do not want to be doing this job again.
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I ordered the gear oil from Napa online. So I figured I'd call them and see if they have the permatex ultra copper in store. They said they do. So now my next question. I have the paper fel-pro gasket. Is there an even better one than that? The oil pan seal seams to be the same as the one I took out so it should be fine.
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So do you guys suggest putting a small tacky layer of RTV down behind gasket of RMS housing and also on the housing itself? What about for the oil pan seal?
I have the regular black RTV gasket maker and the high heat stuff.
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He will be a good dog. His heart is there. Our other boxer already likes him. She lost her buddy in February. His name was Ceasar and he was a huge 92lb English bulldog we had for 8 years. Best dog I have ever had.
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I was up until late last night cleaning carpets instead of working on pathfinder. Life calls.
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Yeah. I'm looking at ordering it online. Probably today.
If it is not one thing keeping me from getting this clutch done it's another. We adopted a boxer from a very poor living condition. He is a rescue and while only have him for a couple days now he has made me practice my patients. He has been caged his whole like(3years), doesn't have a name, never been on a walk of felt grass and have never run. He has gone days without eating so he is very food motivated. Yesterday on my lunch break I come home to this.
Here he is the day we got him. Much happier boy.
Compared to
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Well. No one in town has gl-4 gear oil. I think I'll have drive to the next little town over. They have a machine shop and a little store with super high priced stuff.
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Yes sir. That's right. I don't mind weekend warrior projects but this is hopefully the last major job for a while. Knock on wood.
Btw I'll pick up the stabilizer and oil today after work. Looks like I'll be off in a couple hrs.
T
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Oh wow. That's crazy. I had no idea they did that. Man. It's a good thing there are forums like this one to share that info. So I'll just fully drain it and add in the 5.1 liters.
Probably go with the 80/90 right now. Tight budget. I only drive 2500-3000 miles a year avg to work and back. But if I am able to start using this thing for camping and fishing I will change it out for something better. I'm just sure more and more will pop on on me that needs attention. I noticed with the front tires int he air that they won't just spin freely. As soon as you let go it stops sounds like breaks are constantly rubbing.
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Thanks for all the help guys. I have been so spoiled with my American cars I guess. Seems to be a lot on these nissans that need extra attention. But I think it is way better built than my blazer also.
So B,
Am I to overfill the transmission which intern will flow to areas which normally get starved? Then open the fill plug and let the excess pour out on it own?
What fluid do you use? You are in California also so I am curious with our warmer weather what people run for fluids/ oil,gear oil, ect.
I'm going to do the RMS and oil pan seal today if I can get out of work at a decent time.
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I was just getting ready to say that after an hour of thumbing through my Nissan manual I found a look at the RMS housing that looks like it fits into the oil pan seal. I would just need to make sure all residue was completely gone. Man, if it wasn't for the clutch I would have my new wheels and tires already. Oh well. Play time later.
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Can the rear oil pan gasket slid in without loosening the pan bolts? I am not going to drop the front diff just yet. Hoping it can slide into place the way the old style rope seals do for the RMS.
Clutch replacement help
in The Garage
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Got the exhaust manifold and new gasket installed. Flywheel and clutch are on. Now just need to stab the transmission in there and he rest should be pretty straight forward.
I torqued the flywheel bolts to 80ft lbs. in the manual it shows 72-80 but the. On the bottom of the chart is shows
MT 115ft lbs or something. But that doesn't seem right.