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Bobsteriffic

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Posts posted by Bobsteriffic

  1. 99% of the time it's that sensor. It is expensive for sure! I fixed the abs light on my 95 by bleeding the brakes and flushing the fluid. I am not sure how that fixed it but the light never came back. It had been intermittent for a year. My 94 I just unplugged the ABS controller which shut the light off.

     

    Looks like I found out what I'm doing this afternoon. Mind pointing me the direction where I can find that controller? I'll do some forum research myself but sometimes it's hit and miss on results.

     

    I could care less about the ABS on this machine, not to mention it's only in the rear anyways lol.

  2. I ran codes on my ABS system and the computer thinks there's a fault in the circuit for the speed sensor. I'm hoping it's a plug issue like yours because that sensor ain't cheap! It's been a low priority since it's not like the brakes are good enough to lock up the rears anyway.

     

    How do two mechanics in a row mix up ABS and alarm system wiring? :lol:

    Not necessarily "$hitty" mechanics, but mechanics that have no business working with electrical.

     

    First guy did an injector replacement, and the second one did my brake pads and alignment. They both had the same mentality of "hey that lights on, I could probably fix that and charge more." Like mechanics can be a great help when you don't have the time or experience to work on it yourself, but as of recent I've told anyone working on my rig to leave that damn light alone!!

  3. I think I threw the timing belt. I have a new one, and a water pump, and the other belts but I've been putting it off because I wanted to put in my altima electric fan shroud at the same time. But i've been waiting for the electric controller. Lesson of the day (and apparently a lot of other days before now) is DO NOT PUT OFF THE TIMING BELT Change. Sorry for yelling. Now I'm looking for a good 33 swap thread.

    Ouch. Before the Pathy was mine (father's before), the timing belt change was ignored and when it snapped, oh man did the top end of the engine get mangled. My family literally left her for dead at our mechanics and the only reason she's alive today is because the mechanic got tired of looking at it after 9 months and rebuilt her :lol::lol:

  4. The grey one? Yeah, that should be the 4x light switch. Sounds like it might've just been a loose/dirty connection then. Nice! Hopefully my ABS light turns out to be a similar issue.

     

    Yep that's the one I pulled! I've put ~25 miles on her since then and no flickering so I think I'm good!! Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

     

    On a side note, keep me posted on what ends up being the fix to your ABS light. Mine has been on for roughly 6-7 years now, never bothered to actually figure out what was wrong with it. I've had 2 different mechanics attempt to fix it, both ended up just screwing up my aftermarket alarm system further :suicide:

    • Like 1
  5. Damn, sorry for the confusion! The '94/'95 manual shows a bolt there and the switch mounted farther back, and that's how my '93 is set up. Guess Nissan found another thing to change mid-year for no well-explained reason. (Just checked the '89 manual, and it looks like yours.)

     

    If all else fails, you might try unplugging the switch and see if the light still acts up. If it does, you know it's the wiring. If not, test the switch.

     

    No problem, I understand how it is lol.

     

    So just to clarify the switch I'm looking for is the cylindrical shaped connection? I pulled it and everything looked fine, but upon re-seating everything it seems like that may have been the issue. Light comes on in 4 and goes off in 2, and no flickering so far. I hope that was it!

    • Like 1
  6. Your 4wd switch is the one next to the speedo sensor towards the tailend of the case. One of those plus to pictured is your neutral switch.

     

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

    Ahh good to know, thank you. I was looking around the tailend of the case and I didn't see anything... I'm gonna get under there tomorrow with a proper flashlight and take a closer look.

  7. Looks like the switch should be the one towards the back of the transfer on the passenger's side.

    Are these the connections I'm looking for?

     

    Oc6DF9d.jpg

     

    If so then I'm not sure what's up... all the connections looked and felt solid. I jiggled all of them and it doesn't seem to have made a difference, doesn't really act up right when you start driving her but the more bumps she goes over the worse it gets...

     

    I've attached a link to other angles of the same area.

    https://imgur.com/a/O1Aor

  8. It's probably just the connection. Check the harness. I bet they didn't tie it back up properly.

    I seem to have misplaced my service manual, do you know where I would find that harness? I thought I remembered reading somewhere on here it was inside the t-case??

  9. '92 Pathfinder here, another issue has arisen as of yesterday.

     

    I was driving her around doing nothing out of the ordinary, when all of the sudden the 4WD light on my dash started flickering green to indicate it was on. It stays off whenever I'm accelerating, but when I let off the gas or apply the brakes, the light flickers on and off, eventually turning off when idling at a stop light.

     

    I know that it's staying in 2WD because I tested it and it shifts in and out of 4WD no problem, no flickering 4WD light either when it's engaged in 4WD, but after putting it back in 2WD the light starts flickering again. I'm assuming it's related to the sensor that connects to the transfer case, but I don't really know where to begin with that. I called the transmission shop that worked on my car but they said they couldn't look at it until late next week, and they would also want to "keep it for a few days." I know I can fix this myself but I don't know where the sensor is located. Does anyone have any info relating to this?

    Cheers

  10. so the ecu isnt bringing back a code. I push in the o/d button and it revs my rpms up by around 250 rpm. so if im doing 65 on the freeway at 3500 rpm and i kick in od it goes up to 3750 and its also causing mine to overheat. Im almost scared to take it on the freeway because im afraid of blowing the motor out of it

    Now that's bizarre. In my 1992 I sit around 3000 RPM's at 50mph until I engage overdrive, which at that point it shifts into 4th, and then into the extra highway gear. I can then cruise 75mph around 2400-2500rpms.

     

    Now I don't have enough knowledge of transmissions to actually provide any proper input here, but that just almost sounds like your transmission was either put back together incorrectly (if it had service done to it), or your rear differential has been swapped. If I remember correctly these machines come with 4.3 ratio with the manual transmission and 4.6 with the automatics.

     

    If your rear diff hasn't been touched, then it's safe to say you'll probably be tearing that transmission out because that sounds internal...

  11. Yeah, I got mine from the original owners, it is from out in BC somewhere, near Vancouver.

     

    I've driven a pathy across the country twice actually. It always went smoothly but this time I'm taking the one I can wheel. I had the oil pan off last summer and all appeared fine in there, nothing lose or any chunks of metal laying around.

    Sounds like you're good then. I would just throw in the obligatory "side of the highway tool kit," but other than that I wouldn't worry too much! These things don't leave you stranded unless you're ignoring maintenance, such as myself lol. Now that I've got a brand new tranny I'm gonna make sure to maintain this thing as much as a I can.

  12. I had basically the same problem you have. I recommend running the codes and seeing what the ECU brings back. User Terranovation posted a very thorough walk through on how to check the codes here. I can't remember which code my Pathy brought back, but it was some sort of solenoid that wasn't engaging correctly. Unfortunately I ignored it, and after 60 miles of continuous highway driving the transmission gave up all together so I got a manufactured one. I doubt the solenoid alone was at fault for the tranny failure, but it probably provoked it.

     

    Good luck!

  13. Hmm I don't notice any ticking ever. It used to tick when it was really cold out (-20), and I used castrol conventional. Once I switched to a synthetic it never made another peep. I have had this truck since 120k miles.

     

    I am planning a cross country road trip and wanted to take the pathfinder to do some west coast wheeling. But such a high mileage engine makes me nervous.

     

    Do you use regular or synthetic oil? Do you have an oil filter relocation? I installed one and now it takes almost 5 quarts to fill.

    I've done some pretty far trips in my Pathy, unfortunately on the most recent one was when the tranny gave up lol.

     

    I use synthetic high detergent oil whenever I can get my hands on it, better to spend some extra money now on the heart of her than money on repairs later down the road. I want to install a relocation kit, but for now I've been dealing with wrestling the filter out from above the starter... she usually takes around 4-4 1/2 quarts to fill her up to the recommend level.

     

    I should also mention my Pathy has been in the direct family ever since she came off the showroom floor with ~120 miles back in '92. I'm almost positive it has always ran synthetic, but I may be wrong. I've ran synthetic for the past 4 years she's been mine.

  14. I have 270,000 miles (450,000km) and still run the factory spec 5w30. Perhaps I should watch out for that? I mainly drive it in the summer here anyway. How loud is the ticking?

    Depends on how warm the engine is. When she used to run 5W30 back in the 260K range, the lifters would start to tick anywhere above 3000rpms when she was at operating temp in the summer. Now that I run 10W, I never really hear them anymore.

    Last week I was running her around literally all day, and by the end of the day I could hear them very slightly when I would get above 3000. I just want to make sure that I keep it well lubricated, there's been very little work done the engine as a whole.

  15. Swapped out the oil this morning, it was 10W40. Usually I just run 10W throughout the entire year where I live, but with the weather already getting warmer I put in some high detergent 15W-40. I don't run anything less than 10W because of the high mileage (315,000+), the lifters like to start ticking when she gets reallll warm. Does anyone think this is overkill? She's running great so far, I just want other's input.

    Cheers

  16. +1 on checking that O2 sensor. My Pathy used to get upwards of 20-22MPG on the highway until my O2 sensor started to crap out. Caused it to stutter, run rich when idling at stop lights, the whole nine yards. Swapped it and all those issues are gone and I'm getting roughly 18MPG again. Good luck!

  17. Dude good forum detective work

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    As much as I love these forums, the built-in search function is pretty bad imo. Doesn't bring back results half the time. I've resorted to just googling "NPORA *insert problem keywords here*". So my search to find this thread was "NPORA No gauges no start" and sure enough it came back with results. Seems to work pretty well!

     

    Cheers

    • Like 2
  18. I was out wheeling her a little bit on some trails and decided it was time to head home. On the way down the trails, I noticed my RPM's were stupidly low, and then saw the fuel and engine temp gauges slowly going down as well. Next thing I knew all my gauges were dead except the speedo, no fan or blower, but my radio worked. Really bizarre. Drove it all the way back into town and pulled into a parking spot to try to restart her. No dice. Everything was dead.

     

    At this point I was freaking out so I decided to start searching the forums, and sure enough, I found this thread. And like user fast5speed said, it was a blown ignition meter fuse. Swapped it out with a spare I had, and everything fired up as normal. This forum is literally the gift that keeps on giving. Thank you all!

    • Like 1
  19. Alright! I was out of the country for a week so I haven't had a chance to take a look at the Pathy until today, and the mission was a success!

     

    Sure enough as you mentioned, Slartibartfast, the culprit was some twigs and a dried up leaf lodged inside the fan blade. I didn't even need to remove all 3 screws, just the front 2 so I could fit a small pair of needle-nose pliers inside to pull the debris out. After reassembling everything it's perfectly quiet again. Thanks again for the help guys, this forum is the best.

     

    fYoQogA.jpg

    ZUV9SRp.jpg

    • Like 1
  20. They're pretty easy to remove, three screws and a plug, though one of the screws can be a little tricky to get to because the fan motor's in the way. I seem to remember taking the motor on my '95 completely apart at some point to clean it out, but that was long enough ago that I don't remember how exactly it disassembles. I do remember that it had a bunch of brush dust inside, and that stuff gets everywhere (being graphite and all), so be careful about where you disassemble it. You might find the issue just by removing the fan and messing with it by hand. A single leaf caught in that fan can make a surprising amount of noise.

    Thanks for the info Slartibartfast!

     

    I'll tear back into my dash later today and give it a shot, time permitting. I'll definitely take the entire assembly out of my car before I disassemble it then, I just cleaned her yesterday lol. And yes, after driving her more last night I really wouldn't be surprised if it's just a leaf or twig, I'll make sure and post later on my findings!

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