RCWD21
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Posts posted by RCWD21
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If I were to convert it the amount of batteries required would nullify any gains! I'm still really curious as to why it's sitting there though, that's a pretty big electric motor just to basically throw away.
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Today I was going through my somewhat local pick and pull and stumbled upon the coolest thing I've ever found out there. It was a 95 Ford Ranger with a full electric conversion.
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Currently yes, it's very similar. Especially since I drive it around the neighborhood and had it settle down some. There's roughly 1/2" gap now between the arm and bump stop but the front is still lower than I'd like it. I'll mess with it a bit more tomorrow and see how it sits.
Currently it looks like this, also that's how thin my bump stops are:
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I actually found your info about mechanical lockers showing the different carriers and such and based on what I see in my pic and the 4 pinion carrier in your posts I'm pretty confident that it's a 4 pinion carrier also.Looks like the 4-pinion to me. The 2-pinion open and 4-pinion LSD carrier have different cast gussets. From Nissan Nut's site:
Also sorry for the multiple posts, tapatalk was being tapatalk again, it doesn't even show that I posted this question or that I have replies about it...
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Sorry guys, tapatalk wasn't letting me do anything and I guess it posted more than once xD It didn't even give me a notification of a response or that I even posted this.
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I've installed a set of super lift upper control arms and what 'were' 3" lift coils for a JGC in my pathfinder and after trimming the rear coils to reduce the lift a bit (was originally 4" +/-). After being trimmed these coils are still roughly 2" taller than stock JGC springs of the same wire diameter uncompressed.
I'm still roughly 2" lower in the front with the torsion bars adjusted to leave about 1/4" gap between the bump stops and arms, my bump stops are about 1/4" thick.
Here's my questions.
1. Would a 1/4" or even 1/2" ball joint spacer give me any additional room for adjustment or would it be pointless? Again I'm only looking for ways to increase the front height by a little bit
2. Does anyone know just how thick the "ultra low-profile" bump stops are that I see mentioned on the forum? I guess I could just find the thinnest pair possible and go with those.
3. Would roughly 2 inches of front rake effect the ride quality all that much? I don't have much room left to work with and I'd really rather not have to pull the rear springs back out for a 3rd time if I can help it.
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Got some drop down brackets for my e-brake fabbed up and installed, they're not pretty but they'll do the job just fine. Now I have a functioning e-brake again, next up is trimming the exhaust, rebuilding the front calipers, and leveling off the front end
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Just double checking before I order a lockrite locker for my pathfinder. A vin search says I have a 4 pinion carrier, looking online I'm pretty sure I have it. I'd assume with the limited view through the fill plug hole of be able to see spider gears if it were indeed a 2 pinion carrier right? I'll try to post a pic but it's giving me a hard time for some reason.
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Just wanted to double check that I have a 4 pinion carrier and not the 2 pinion carrier before I order my lockrite locker. It looks the same the whole way around when I rotate a tire. And thanks to Photobucket being down and out I can't find the reference pics nor my thread containing them.
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Just wanted to double check that I have a 4 pinion carrier and not the 2 pinion carrier before I order my lockrite locker. It looks the same the whole way around when I rotate a tire. And thanks to Photobucket being down and out I can't find the reference pics nor my thread containing them.
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No that's from the old set of shocksUh is that rubber bushing on the ground out of place?
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Just double checking to make sure this is a 4 pinion carrier so I can order the correct locker. It looks like this all the way around so I'm 99% sure it's the 4 pinion carrier. I can't seem to find my thread showing the differences
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Just double checking to make sure this is a 4 pinion carrier so I can order the correct locker. It looks like this all the way around so I'm 99% sure it's the 4 pinion carrier. I can't seem to find my thread showing the differences
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Got the springs trimmed to reduce my lift a bit, and the new shocks installed
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Ordered my winch and got a free cover in the process, should be here next week.
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Sounds like you're pretty bad off, luckily these are the only mounts that have rust issues. It all stems from the back seat area being rusted out and spreading downwards. It's so bad I even have to replace portions of my rear inner fenderwell areas.My rear right body mounted cracked and ripped when I put my pathfinder on it's side. I welded up what I could back there together and i plan on welding in the frontmost right body mount bracket after I fix my motor. I currently do not have a bracket up front which is causing my fender to sag and rip off the body.
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From what I can gather on schematics the hinges are different when the 96 year change took place. They appear to be longer than 95 on back? It's really hard to tell though due to crowded numbers.
Why not go to a pick n pull and get you a good set of hinges that way? I find lots of them in my area.
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Are you talking about the small set screw like thing that meets up with the throttle cam and has an 8mm lock nut on it?
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Has anyone ever cut out and repaired rusted out body mounts? Not the frame mounts but the actual mounting points on the body itself? Both the mounts at the front of the rear wheel wells on my rig have rusted through enough to worry me. And since I'll be cutting out under the rear seats more anyways I thought I'd tackle that at the same time but thanks to pictures going disappearing all the bookmarked pages are no longer of any use to me.
I was thinking of using 1/16" plate steel in strips to lap weld in since there appears to be a large gap between the panels and it would also beef up the mount area more than welding in a lot of thinner sheet metal, not to mention the contour of the body panels themselves in that area of the floor.
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I'm using a set of Rancho RS5112 (they're 26" extended to give a little extra articulation) for the rear and once my 30 year old electronic shocks wear out in the front I'll be going with a stock length Rancho replacement which is RS5214.
The 5112 is 16.25" comp length, 25.96" ext length and has 9.7" of travel
The 5214 has 9.68" comp length, 14.3"ext length and has 4.62" of travel.
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Thanks for the pics Citron, and I'll have to look at that winch when I get to Alabama. I had a day off from work only to turn around and drive right back through where I just was. 100+ hour weeks are a serious grindPics of the mounting.
From reading on here and other places, I am looking at the Engo sr9 winch now. Good reviews and good price.
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This is the sort of experience I wanted to hear about and it being the winch I'm getting is even betterI have a smittybilt XRC 8, Been on my truck for 7 years. It will drag the whole truck through mud with the wheels locked! I did that just to see if it would, engine not running either. Haven't had to use it a lot for recovery but lifted several box blinds with it and pulled down an old barn. The second year I had it I seemed to get stuck every time I got off a main trail at our camp and had to use it a lot. Just recently it pulled the truck up on my trailer when my pathfinder left my son on the road! Always worked when I needed it.
James
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When I get back home I'll take a pic of the bumper I was given. It's off of a service truck or some sort. It's a truck step style bumper which is kinda nice to be able to get up top but it's a little shorter than I'd like it to be but any bumper is better than no bumper right nowI had planned on using the left over material for my rear bumper too.
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I live 3 hours from the supplier that I'm going with so I'd rather have metal left over than realize I need another sheet of something.4'x4' 1/8" plate, 3'x4' 1/4" plate, 2"x1/4"x36" flat bar.
I have about 40% of the 1/4" plate left and will have about 20% of the 1/8" plate once I make the center piece, for aesthetic reasons. I bought a lot extra in case I messed up, considering how far I live from a place to buy more.
Picture of mount is forthcoming.
All that's left at this point is buy the metal, hookup our new plasma cutter or use one from my dad's work and get templates made.
The extra metal that's left over should give me plenty to figure out a way to mount the rear bumper I'll be using until I make up my mind on what I want back there.
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Ball joint spacer and front suspension questions
in General Forums
Posted
My only concern with this whole lift is that it feels incredibly unstable going over even small bumps. I'm not sure if it's just because I'm so used to driving a frontier with leaf springs or because of something else, the only thing in the rear end that I removed was the rear sway bar and I'm starting to think I need to put it back in.
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