ebayfish

I've only ran it for 2,000 miles since I put an Xterra transmission in. Brand new Max-Life fluid & all still looks good...Just want to protect my investment.

I have bypassed my stock transmission cooler & mounted a Hayden 403, 18,000gvwr, 7.5x12.5x3/4. Its mounted behind the radiator, to the outside edge inside the shroud as to get the most airflow from the fan. It never feels overly hot to the touch after running, but I don't have a gauge. Should this be enough cooling, or should I look to mount a second cooler in front of the air conditioner coil?

I've got a few holes in my factory exhaust. Is there any way to make the 3.0 sound decent or will it always sound like an angry bumblebee? Is there much power to gain by opening up the exhaust(plus intake of course)?

I hope for your sake that the tranny is not shot. I just did the Xterra swap & it made a huge difference! Pulling that transmission is the hardest transmission I've ever pulled, lots of hidden bolts, behind the starter mount, etc. I found an Xterra transmission with 45k miles on www.car-parts.com for $300 & shipped it to my work for $110 through RYC. I used my pathfinder transfer case, topped it with Valvoline Max Life ATF & everything went together well. I then sold my old core tranny for $125. If you got the time, that'll probably be your best bet if it comes down to it.

I think the pump wasn't building enough pressure to engage reverse, or maybe a clutch/bushing was deteriating and released a bunch of crap into the system & clogged it. Between draining &replacing the atf, then driving it maybe 80 miles the new fluid smelt horrendous with tons of brass sparkles. I'm running great now, only problem is that I tweeked the sleeve that the rear driveshaft slides in & couldn't get it perfect. Now I got the metal squeak sound of it rubbing at low speeds. I'm gonna see if thicker oil than wd40 helps(maybe some sticky Lucas), otherwise I guess I'll wait till it reseats a groove.

Xterra Tranny is in with original case & Max Life ATF...What a difference! Shifts better & much smoother. Also it must be geared a little higher, taching a little less on the interstate. Thanks for all the help & advise! Hopefully I will never have to do this again, I have easily 30 hours labor in it.

Thanks Adam! I'll let you know how the swap goes.

Xterra tranny is about to go in. Of course I'll be flushing my lines, but what's the most recommend ATF? Valvoline Max Life Dex 3 synthetic?

I've got a transmission on order 2000 model, 9/99 with very low miles. Transfer case was not included. Can I mate my old one to it or should I get an Xtrerra one?

That transmission fell through, the guy started d**king me on the price. I have found a few others, from 2000, 2001 & 2002 that I will have to drive for. I see the interchange parts are the same, all things equal, are they the same transmission & transfer case or is one year more desirable?

Thanks guys! I can't find much info on the swap elsewhere. I'm amazed how hard its been to find this exact unit. I've walked over a dozen junk yards looking. This one has just under 100k miles & they are asking 600 pulled.

Thanks guys! I can't find much info on the swap elsewhere. I'm amazed how hard its been to find this exact unit. I've walked over a dozen junk yards looking. This one has just under 100k miles & they are asking 600 pulled.

Sorry keep asking, but I want to be sure. I found a wrecked 2000 xterra with a 3.3 auto 4wd. Any reason why I shouldn't go with this tranny?

Did they use the VG33 in Xterras of those years? I assumed they were the same.

The timing belt change is pretty easy. it took me about 5-6 hours, and was pretty straight forward. you can pick up kits on ebay for about $60 on ebay with a new water pump, gates timing belt & tensioner. The gates belt also has timing marks on it makeing it pretty well dummy proof. go ahead & get a harmonic balancer puller from your local auto parts store before you start the job. IMO, it is also a good idea to replace your thermostat, coolant bypass hose & at least your two main fain belts while you do it. It can all be done for under $100 & a fer hours of work, a whole lot cheaper than a new engine if it does happen to break.

Aliright, I've found 3 decent looking junk yard trannys all on wrecked pathfinders (not x-terra). All 4wd 6 cl with transfer case, with similar mileage. I found an '01 or '02 for $250 or an '04 for $400. Are there any pros or cons these trannys? Besides the torque converter are there any other parts that I will need to scavenge from these? Once again, I'm mating it up to a '95 3.0. Thanks for all y'alls input, I love this site!

My gf has an 01 infinity q series & the seats are much more comfortable than my 95 pathy's. The mounting looks similar, if I were to find something similar in the junk yard, do you think all the seats would bolt up directly?

Well, my band-aid bought about 4 more days....no more reverse again. Time for a donor I guess.

For that EGR, is the problem generally with the carbon buildup in the piston or the remote electronics?

I just googled their o2 sensors & saw prices ranged from $18-150....is there any brands I should shy awat from? Some had a new connector, other you resplixe wires.

Is the only o2 sensor on the exhaust under the drivers seat or are there others? Is it possible to test it or do you blindly change it?

I've got the good 'ol 3.0. I've had it for 3 months now with no issues. I've replaced the timing belt, fuel filter, oil & filter, cleaned throttle body, water pump, thermostat, all belts, etc. The other day it developed a tiny miss while cruising. That has developed to a major loss of power when the engine is under a load. I got a c.e. light & flashed egr function code. My experience with an egr in other vehicles is constant small sputters, nothing like this. I'm assuming as with all the other parts I've replaced, the plugs, wires, rotor cap & button are probably factory original. The wires are a Japanese brand, Yasaki or something like that. Do you think I should start with the electrical system or egr? The egr codes haven't came back after I cleared it. Is it possible(without too much cussing) to change the plugs without pulling the intake plennum?

My little 10mm 1/4 drive socket wouldn't fit between the mount & pan. Then I removed the section or exhaust from the collector flange at the exhaust manifold down to the Y. Not a bad job, just frustrating when your working on your back & you realize someone has "borrowed" your metric gear wrenches..

Thanks, Adam! Luckily I do have have a drain plug on my pan if I have to go that route. I hope to never have to drop that pan again (dropping exhaust & tranny mounts)

I purchased some new to me rims that I couldn't resist. They are 18x9 with approx. 5.25" backspacing. I'm sure I will need to run spacers. What would the spacer recommendation be? I plan to run a 32-33" tire, trying to keep the tread as narrow as possible for fuel economy. I am about to be putting on a 2.5" suspension lift, but the front lift will result a bit from reindexing the torsion bars.