maaakaaa
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Posts posted by maaakaaa
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Thanks! We get some salt here, though not salt belt levels. I do have 270k miles and the bushings are visibly bad, so I should just go ahead and buy the rods, too. Any specific brand recommendations on the strut rods? I plan on Energy Suspension bushings.
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I need to replace my bushings--hopefully it will help cut down on the wandering. If the bushings are bad, is it normal for the strut rod itself to need replaced like Inyouface's? I'd rather not disassemble, reassemble then disassemble, reassemble again!
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I replaced my oxygen sensor tonight. I didn't figure it would take too long.
The oxygen sensor had other ideas.
I finally completed my O2 sensor replacement today. After a several day regimen of PB blaster, driving to heat the pipe, trying the wrench on it, more PB blaster, more wrench, hit wrench with firewood log for "impact wrench," more PB blaster, more wrench/log/heating. I finally cut the wires and got the box end of the wrench on it, which helped me avoid rounding the hex part of the sensor, which was starting to happen with the open wrench.
My plan is to replace rear differential fluid today, also.
Yesterday I had my front seatbelts replaced under warranty at the dealer. No hassles at all from them!
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My dad's 1976 Ford F-250 4-speed (including granny low) that I drove for a few years after getting my license. Behind it in the picture is my first car--'87 Accord 5-speed.
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My fan started making a lot of noise, then I blundered into this thread. After cleaning out all of this junk the fan has quieted down and my heater seems to be more effective now that it doesn't have to blow the air through a layer of forest duff.
I also tried to undo the little clips and take the bottom off of the box, but gave up when it seemed more difficult than that.
A couple of things I discovered while getting in there: 1) Slide the round plastic things that hold the top of the glove box toward the middle to drop it down (this took me way to long to figure out!). 2) You don't have to unscrew the glove box latch screws. I had one strip out so I drilled it out, only to discover that the whole thing was unnecessary.
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I ordered an O2 sensor from Rock Auto yesterday (along with a distributor cap and rotor while I was making an order). I will see what that does when it arrives...and the weather warms up a little for more pleasant wrenching.
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I checked the codes last night. I had a 33 (heated oxygen sensor) and 51 (injector circuit). After I cleared the codes, the CEL came on again, so I ran codes this morning and only got the 33 code. I guess it's time to get an O2 sensor. I notice a code 53 for oxygen sensor. What is the difference between 33 and 51? Also, any advice on what might cause the 51 code and how to deal with it?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the input. My check engine light had been on intermittently, then all the time, and now currently is off. I will see if I can see what codes have shown up.
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I thought he had his head out the sunroof!
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Do you all use the stock mounts or heavier aftermarket mounts?
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My 1994 is running kinda rough. Jerky acceleration, slows on even mild hills, etc. Strangely when the weather gets down around 0 degrees F it seems to run noticeably better. (The heater is pretty inadequate then, though!). Any ideas on what might cause this?
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Here's what I have. It actually was made by the owner before the one I bought it from. It works pretty well and stays in place great since it is tight between the seats.
Here is a side view.
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I repainted my front bumper with Rustoleum hammered black. Better than the paint peeling and rust spots look. I forgot to take a before picture. I actually did it yesterday with some nice hot, calm weather. A rare afternoon without much wind can't be wasted!
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Ok, thanks. I will try to find the plug to the light and get that hooked up.
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Here's a new one...or three pigtails. They are down near the clutch pedal.
Here's one more picture of a different angle, though it's blurry
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I know this is a pretty old thread, but the topic is certainly still relevant! I finally got around to taking care of mine last week. I decided to go with the Plasti-Dip rubber spray paint. I went with red to match the truck and give some variety from the grey of the rest of the interior. I had never used Plasti-Dip before, but it worked great. I should have prepped the trim piece better, but I had pictured the paint being a thicker coating since it's rubber. I had some remnants of the foam stuff and that section is still kinda dimpled. It stood out in the driveway, but when installed is always shadowed and looks pretty good. The red was a gamble, but I like it and it matches pretty well.
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Welcome! I recently bought a 1994 as well with many more miles on it. This forum has been great for learning about it and planning projects.
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Bilstein 5100 Front: PN 33-230405 Shock Length 16.4”
OEM Front Shock length 13.6”
Bilstein 5100 Rears: PN 33-230320 Shock Length 24.5”
OEM Rear Shock Length: 22.85”
These are the shock I bought which bilstein said they'd fit with a 2-3" lift...
That's about what I am wanting to do. How are those shocks (those specific model numbers)? I just called Bilstein and they told me that I would have to have a suspension shop measure everything after I do the lift, but I'm sure you or someone on here has more useful information on what I need. I'm looking mostly at the 5100s.
More on topic, do many of you have experience with the Ford coils? Mostly I'm reading about people using Grand Cherokee coils, but I'd like to be able to go to the junkyard with as many options as I can.
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I'm interested in the front passenger window motor and regulator, assuming it has power windows and the motor works well.
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Great! Thanks!
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My 94 Pathfinder needs shocks badly, but I can't afford a lift until later in the summer. I'm planning on doing about 2 inches of lift and getting Bilstein 5100 shocks. I want to get longer shocks for the lift, but I don't know if it will work to run them at stock height. Any advice on this?
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I have the Mastercraft Courser AXT. They have been great in snow and muddy roads as well as the pavement. They offer a load range C light truck tire, which is something not every tire offers. It's very similar to the Cooper AT/3 that gv280z has. I almost bought the Terra Grapplers. I looked seriously at the Hankook Dynapro ATM, but they only offered P and load range E in the size I wanted (265/75/16).
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I've had Mastercraft Courser AXT tires on my Honda Passport for about a year and a half. Mastercraft is owned by Cooper, and I think I heard that these are the same casing as the Cooper Discoverer AT/3. The tread is very similar, but more squared-off and aggressive-looking. The Passport is dead now, so I plan to transfer the tires over to my Pathfinder I just bought. They have done great in snow and muddy dirt/gravel roads. Pretty open tread pattern for an all-terrain. Lot's of complements from friends, too!
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Thanks for the advice, everyone. I am definitely more able to work with wood than do metal or plastic fab (no skills or knowledge there), but didn't know how to not make it look ugly. Even just painted might look funny. Fiberglass coating is a good idea--I've never done anything with it, but I'm not afraid to learn something! What would I need to get to do that?
Seat Belts Help for an aging vehicle
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I just had the seat belt warranty replacement done. The dealership had to contact Nissan to have my VIN reopened. They apparently dump old VINs out of their system if the vehicles hasn't been to the dealership in forever. But the dealership gave me no hassles and once the VIN was open they ordered the parts (kind of slow to arrive) and installed them for me. No more throwing the belts onto the seat!