Bunchie
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Posts posted by Bunchie
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I'm sorry, but what you have there is a "Pavement Princess"...I know, it's probably NOT what you wanted to hear. What XPLORx4 said is quite accurate.
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Receiver! Excellent starting point Citron, thx. I'll do my research cuz its PROBABLY buried somewhere stupid. Still gotta install my Xmas pres so I'll be opening up the dash for that as soon as the temp reaches double digits Celsius, so I'll do it at the same time.
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Is it common for the fobs to fail? I have 2 having both failed. Niether have worked for quite a while. NOT the batteries (CR2025). Worth it buying OEM to see or better value to convert it to aftermarket?
Comment/ideas pls...
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Hey RC, I agree w/LittleFR's assessment that the possibility of bushing failure in contributing to ur continued consumption of end links. I've just recently got my Pathy back on the road and prior to that, hadn't done anything, suspension wise, for at least a 100 K. NOW, back on the road, I'm noticing it pulls to the right, the sway bar end links are rattling, etc. It's all getting replaced this year, once this freak winter decides to move on...TO ALBERTA, where it belongs!!!
2 ft of snow...on Salt Spring...all in one shot..."Aaah Houston, WTF?...OVER"
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Sometimes a lifter will collapse; meaning the fluid(oil)contained within it, essentially leaks out because of the pressure of the rest of the valve train pushing on in. You mentioned it sat for 5 years. In that amount of time,easily one of those lifters could have "collapsed": how long has it been back in operation and "running"?
By using the tranny fluid, it may be a simple way of getting the required fluid back into the lifter WITHOUT having take half ur engine apart to get to the culprit lifter. Try this method first before delving into more advanced troubleshooting. If ur explanation is correct, the "tapping" DEcreases at low RPM's, which should mean the lifter is not being "hammered" by the cam's slower revolutions.
All the tension in the valve train is produced by the valve spring itself: that may also be the problem. If you used the original valve springs for the rebuild, one of them may be failing or have failed. Unless you had actually checked all of them, you probably made the assumption that they were all good (understandable-they don't fail very often).
Depending on your mechanical skill level, use the "Stethoscope" method to determine on which side the suspect valve is, pop off that valve cover and check for any obvious issues: cam, springs or anything that may not look kosher.
Replacing the spring is relatively straight forward but there are certain specific tools you will need. Try the tranny fluid first and see if there is any change. It won't happen immediately so run it gently for a day on so and see what the results are. Good luck and advise of results. Cheers, V.
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Hmmm, my jury is still out on this mod...nice work though... I personally think it's a LOT of work for a minimal sight line advantage, but each to their own. Good luck w/the fin.
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Gup pie..."I'm so smart, SMRT....Dough"
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And if it's low, add some tranny fluid instead of oil. The tranny fluid should clean any guck that may be causing the lifter to stick. The tranny fluid won't hurt anything in the engine. Source: Old mechanic's trick.
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Yeah unfortunately. Some time ago, I found a website that had a list, by year,(I think I just Googled: nissan pathfinder problems by year) of the number of problems each model year had...2005 was a very bad year, sorry to say. In general, the first year of a new style or overall change in design production tends to have a lot of problems bc they have spent the last 5 years designing the damn thing but have not had much time to Beta test it and find out where its failing are.
Remember the '85 Pontiac Fiero? It was Plagued with a myriad of problems that year. And by the time 1987 rolled around, GM had solved all the issues but by then, no one wanted one bc of all the past problems.
That being said, WELCOME. There is a ton of insight & experience, readily available here, as I can personally atest to. Do your research, find out what Recalls and fixes are available for your truck and exercise them. R50's(the model series previous to yours) for example, have less than ideally sized front rotors, which are prone to warping. It's something we R50 owners just have to deal with. Happy Pathfinding!!
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Kinda curious about the areas ur finding these little gems to drive on...do people have properties/cabins up there? Or is it State owned land? We have a lot of FSR's (forestry service road)out here in BC, but a lot of them just go to areas where they are still logging. I have yet to start blazing some trails in my Pathy-I'll feel more confident about taking her out once I replace all the worn out & wiggly bits it so desperately needs. Must admit, I'm a little jealous of you and your monkeys at this moment in time. Enjoyable vids, BTW.
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That's awesome! Necessity is the mother of invention...I should know, I'm a charter member of Team Winginit-lol. Ur lucky to be able to get out and about this time of year. We've been slammed w/snow for the last month out here in the Pacific Northwest, which is unusual for the coast (Vancouver, BC). Mind you, if I want adventure, all I need do is go for a drive on the streets these days, with the overabundance of clueless drivers we seem to have out here. But such are the trials of livin in paradise!! Look forward to seeing more of your adventures, cheers.
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Hey folks, thanx for all the answers to my questions. Adamzan, I live in a suburb of Vancouver. It's called Cloverdale and those of use who live here, like to say we live in Cloverdale bc it means we don't have to say we live in SURREY-LOL! Well it looks like we've had our last dump of snow for this year...we don't get snow here all that often and year's allotment was more than most people around here have any sort of clue how to deal with. Now maybe I can get on with the list of repairs required for Pathy so she's Summer ready!!
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And what's your reason for the rear sway bar delete? You didn't do that to the front did you? And where did you mount ur air compressor or did you just use a refillable pig? In process of deciding what all to do for overall upgrades.. Great pics, btw, super clear. Didnt have to squint my old man eyes once! Thx
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Wife is just talking to her Mom and she says they have almost 2 feet and it's snowing w/a vengeance again...might have to take a run out there in case they need any provisions. They have a 2 WD SUV and I dont want them driving that in these conditions...BUT I WILL, HEEHEEHEE! I love my Pathy!
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Ok y'all y'all, I started this thread and now I have a few Q's regarding your answers/comments.
Citron: thank you, I did not know how ethanol affected the ignition of the fuel. Is that ALL it does? Do you know WHY they seem to put it in all the "lower" grade fuels?
LittleFR: Trying to understand how Sta-bil factors in to the ethanol equation. Ive noticed here in Vancouver, & BC in general, most of the main fuel suppliers state, on the pumps, that fuel "may contain up to 10% ethanol", except for "premium" which seems to contain NO ethanol. Both 93 and 94(available at Chevron only) are considered "premium".
Anyone: Is/was the 3.5 ltr engine made from 2001 and on, always built as a 10:1 compression engine and thus requires the premium fuel?
Adamzan: Hey buds, don't be moaning about the local gas prices...I put $40 CAN into the tank yesterday at $1.47 per litre only so I could get 20X the Airmiles, "premium fuel" offering at Shell(with min 25 litre purchase)-haha, just so I could get a half a tanks worth of fuel. So using the following formula: $1.47 X 3.78 (ltrs in a gallon)=$5.56 CAN for a "gallon" of premium...now let's factor in that US/CANADIAN exchage rate at X 1.27% =$7.06 per gallon!!!! JC, that's just SO wrong on a multitude of levels....
Everyone: Now I hope y'all have a clear idea of why I'm asking about HAVING to run premium in my ride. Well it snowed here again yesterday and last night...about 8 inches overall (inlaws about 1/2 hour away got 1-1/2 feet-lucky them) so I think I'll put some clothes on and go see if I can burn off some of that expensive premium fuel I have use...after all, I wouldn't want it to go BAD!! CHEERS from snowy Vancouver.
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Hey Al, and welcome! I'm pretty new here too but there is an ocean of knowledge and lots of members w/repair & upgrade experience willing to guide you(and me-lol).
1st, you have a 22 y/o truck and by now all the original soft and wiggly bits are pretty much done. Unclear as to what kind of condition the vehicle is in currently...how much it got beat on enviroment, etc. That being said, depending on ur budget, try to buy those parts first. Bushings, shocks, tie rod ends(even ball joints), end links, etc. I know with my 01, there were NOT a lot of those lubed joints that actually had grease nipples to renew the lube so once the rubber cracked they would start to dry out-my current problem: all that stuff needs to be replaced at this point in its life (325, km). I know here in Canada, you can return auto parts fairly easily: unused & w/receipt, so long as they're not "electrical parts".
Use the search bar to find posts of other members, narrating their repair journeys, short cuts, btw's, links, etc, frequency of failure of the parts you are thinking of replacing. Other associated and possible failing parts: get 1 front & 1 rear brake line, just in case.
Sounds like you won't be able to "pop" down to auto parts store where you going...a set of brass drifts-always handy, a few of those little S/S wire brushes, files-round & flat, anti sieze compound, 1 inch putty knife or scraper, some emery cloth, 2 cans of brake clean, Vise Grip pliers-small, pry bar, a can of GOOD penetraiting fluid-NOT WD-40! Gotta throw the tablet on the charger, I'm in the Red, cheers, V
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Oh yeah THAT stupid book...left mine in the "hidey hole and my lift gate leaks and it filled up w/water...it was OOKKEY and smelled real bad when I found it again so right in the bin it went! Waiting on the STD check right now and the mortgage hasta be paid every 2 weeks so I'm on an ostairity program for the moment. Will buy the MAF cleaner when dat check comes and see what sort of difference is made. Curious, what octane rating you running in ur 01? That "stupid" book says mine needs(wants?) 91+...Its a 3.5 with 10:1 compression so my VIN indicates. Im payin $5.46 CAN or $6.90 US per gallon here in the Greater Vancouver area for the good stuff, which is just sick...what are y'all paying per gallon?
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Another "Inherent Design Flaw"...Fixin other people's screwups. Hey how cum no one ever mentions heat in combination w/penetraiting fluid??? WORK SMART PEOPLE, NOT HARD! And by heat, I dont mean flame but a heat gun. $20, they're cheap. We use to sell a product called Super Carumba...Amazing stuff and FUN TO SAY!
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Well THAT "quote" thing didn't work...I AM NOOB....hear me sigh. Ok LittleFR, when you say you put OEM MAF "back" in, do you mean the old one or a new, replacement Pathfinder MAF back in? And are you saying you simply let the engine warm up b4 driving? Thx
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I had to do a total relearn to run maxima MAF.
So I put stock MAF back in and cleaned TB. Changed fuel filter and flushed trans fluid and went back with OEM fluid.
And my issues went totally away except when it's cold at first startup.
I don't fire it up when it's cold and haven't felt 2-3 flare in ages.
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Hey Onespiritbrain, thanx for the prompt reply...MAF sensor, hey??? Who'da thunk? So just to be clear: the engine speed increases about 500 rpm for the 1.2 seconds it takes to shift from 2nd to 3rd, especially when cold. When warm, its somewhat better. All other shifts are pretty crisp for a 16 y/o tranny. Most of the parts on my buggy are the original equipment so I'm NOT surprised that things are starting to wear out-lol. Big thanx to Howie for the scoop on the Maxima MAF!! My money tree hasn't produced any foliage yet-haha. Cheeky buggers those dealerships...can't recall any of them going out of business in my neck of the woods and it's no wonder. Will clean MAF before replacing it...on Short Term Disabilty at present so $$ are kinda tight right now. Will advise on outcome of cleaning MAF. Thx again, V.
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One thing you have failed to take note of: They already have ur money!! They could care less about ur problem now. They sound like a lot of insurance companies; if they can pass the blame to anyone but themselves, they've WON. No one wants to take responsibility for ANYTHING these days. That being said, I, for one will NEVER buy ANY products made by these clowns, simply bc you had such a crappy experience w/them & their product. I'm sure ur not made of money, so I'm sorry this was such an expensive lesson for you!! I have learned from your painful experience...
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Ok so it's been doing this for a while now. Worse when it's still cold. Looked into some upgraded tranny offerings online but they are somewhat cost prohibitive-got a lot of other things requiring attention prior to THAT sort of cash outlay. Any suggestions as to what I can check prior to major repair options. It's got over 200, none abusive miles on it and there were no alarming things found in the bottom of the pan when I last changed the fluid and filter. Truck doesn't leak any fluids, etc. Bring forth the wisdom, good people of NPORA!! Thx
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Hey last pic reminds me that I STILL have install my hood deflector-bin sittin in its box for 3 years now-lol. And you got the rims I want, dammit! BTW, I drove my truck for a year before I realized I needed to run premium in it-what a profound difference it made!!! MPG AND performance. My Pathy was equipped the 3.5 ltr as it was a late model year upgrade to the line. Check ur owners manual-mine sez 90 octain or better. The $ amount at the pump will be offset by the improvements in performance and mpg. And did you use nylock nuts on your rack mounting system?-nothing like losing ur gear at the most inopportune time cuz the std nuts backed off. Overall, nice ride, duder!
Axle interchangeability between different R50 trims?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Well MINE doesn't whine-it just rattles a lot now but that's a entirely different issue-lol and when I drained both diffs, what came out, definitely WASN'T silvery-Silvery...yeah, THAT'S BAD!!