Bunchie
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Posts posted by Bunchie
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Hey guys those fobs, especially '00, '01 (early/late build), '02 are model number specific: after the "KBRASTU10" you could have a "blank", an "A", an "01". Some websites have a location to enter your VIN, that WILL determine exactly what model number you will req for your ride.
I found a local locksmith that programmed & cut a new key for $100.75CAN-it was NOT worth my time to save a few bucks online an NOT find someone local who would cut/program MY supplied key(Which he previously DID only to tell me those keys I bought online, had NO chip). I have also heard, that some ACE Hardware's can do them-it boils down to if the store is willing to purchase the programming equipment.
The fobs are easy to program yurself:sit in truck & lock doors w/drivers button, key in/out 5/6 times, something on dash will flash(yer in program mode), then press ONE button on fob and yer DONE. I believe I found that gem on a NICO club thread when I Goggled it recently.
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Dumb Q but I'm going to ask it; Have you changed the diff lube ....ever. Has ANYONE?? Cant hurt to try. Suggestions:try some Lucas oil treatment. They say you can run it straight out the bottle. Also check CL. You might find a old retired gearhead looking to make some cash. Ring and pinion work requires a specific skill set OR you can do like me & just replace the entire rear end-lol.
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I wonder if the problem perhaps lies in the control circuitry rather than the wiper motor itself....? A motor primarily will only do what its told by the power circuitry, right? My 2CW.
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Thank you Slarti, I'll check that out on the weekend-highs to 70º by Sunday, the weather folks are sayin...believe it when I see it, lol.
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R50's are still a cable driven design unlike the wife's '08 Sentra...A hurkyjerky throttle response for sure.
One of things I always liked about PF's is just how subtlety one can feather the loud pedal.
You may have just got a dud throttle cable housing that failed. MY suggestion would be to get one from the JY. It's an easy re & re. Remove a couple of bolts/nuts & remove each cable end knob from thier slide/turn sockets. Suggest lubricating assy cable well b4 reinstallation.
Cheers, V.
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Hey kids, so I've had Goldy on the road now for almost a week. To start I fueled up w/a 25ltr gerry can and had no issues getting the fuel down the filler pipe, but tonight I put $100CAN in the tank(sitting at less than an 1/8th of a tank), or should I say tried. It was almost like there was a restriction in the filler tube. The fuel kept coming up the neck even when I restricted the fuel flow at the nozzle. Anybody run into the prob or has input regarding this issue?, I'd like to hear your thoughs, thx, Victor.
BTW, Goldy has performed well so far and its amazing what vehicle sounds you can hear when your stereo doesn't work...well IT works but I need to attach an amp to all the wires the PO left in the back when he scooped his amp b4 selling it, sigh Sway bar end links need replacing front & rear for a start-lol.
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So the structural A post (pillar)is Not the failure point. THATS GOOD NEWS. Now you can find a replacement door at your leisure.
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SAFETY 1ST BOYS & GIRLS, SAFETY 1ST!! It only took 1 of my cars falling off jackstands, for me to learn THAT lesson quick. Sufficed to say it was very unnerving opening the garge door the next morning to find THAT.
Just sayin....
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Good man! Work smart, not hard(it took me yrs to figure THAT out-lol).
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I wouldn't worry about the "mystery" bolt hole, if you used 8 bolts, it ain't going anywhere.
One thing I did learn was that if you wish to remove the rear bumper, you'll have to remove the hitch first-learned this the hard way on a buddy's '99. Hope you used some Neversqueeze-his was from Quebec and Rust was its middle name.
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Well THAT sux...just tried to see that vid and stupid utube sez it's not available. Once again I've been left out of all the fun the rest of the kids are having...sigh.
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I took Marvin out Xmas shopping....we done GOOD. Now all I gotta do is wrap them presents!-lol.
Been steady rain for last 3 days w/a vague chance of clearing Wednesday of next week-gotta pull the window mechanisms for all 4 windows as the passenger side went down but only went back up with a buddy helping it. NOT doing it it while its pissing down w/percipitation, thank you very much. REALLY gotta clean out my one car garage.
Lubrication for the Nation, people.
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"Assisted suicide"...hmmm hadn't though of it in that perspective. If so then that makes me a somewhat unwilling "assistant".
Is 57 too old to be an assistant? Probably not. I just became a maintenance tech in a pharmaceutical mfging Co after 27 years as a Security Field Tech...
It's ALL good!
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So I took Marvin through the car wash (courtesy of my former employer-lol) this morning and then proceeded to run over a Seagull on my way to work...stupid $hithawks. Fiftytwelve of them were fighting over something in the median and one of them had the misfortune to decide, at just that moment, to fly under my front drivers tire. Marvin:1, $hithawk: no score.
I told this to my buddy at work and he reminded me that here in BC, you are not allowed to kill seagulls(apparently some GOVT nob decided to make the Seagull our provincial bird)...Oh snap, MY BAD.
Moving on....
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An easy way to check the output of your alternator is by starting the engine then once running, remove the Positive battery lead. If the engine dies, your alternator is shot. Truly, the only reason current vehicles have batteries is to simply spin & engage the starter motor.
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I know 1st hand of this issue...sigh. On my 01, part of the lift gate's nylon latching mechanism broke off within the inaccessible part of the lock itself. Long story short: like me, ur screwed!
I took a zip cut blade on the grinder and cut an access hole(2" x 4") in the lift gate outer skin, to gain access to the back side of the locking mechanism. Then beat the $hit out of the lock w/a big chisel and hammer.
I know of NO other option for this problem. Inherant design flaw. This is why my Sherwood green metallic Pathy is currently sporting a gold lift gate.
Found another gate on CL for $100. Sorry but this is NOT a cheap fix problem you are currently struggling with.
My suggestion is to find & purchase a replacement unit b4 attempting this endeavor.
Good luck, V.
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Nissan alarm systems suck, period. Marvin's fobs quit working YEARS ago, mind you, it can still be armed using the key. On the wife's Sentra, you have to be within a foot of the receiver in order for it to work. And this is AFTER the knobs at the stealership "fixed" it. Strangely enough, Goldy's 1 remaining fob still works...but for how long still remains to be seen.
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In my opinion as a welder... you don't "repair rust"
I'd have to agree w/you on that-lol. Repairing rust is an oxymoron.
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Well, I guess it all depends on whether you want to actually "repair" the rust issue or simply say screw it and cut out the problem. If it's the latter, a grinder w/a zip cut blade will make short work of those fenders BUT that route also opens up the vehicle to worse issues than just a rusty spot. Your budget also factors into it. Post some pics of the problem spot, if u can. I'm in Cloverdale and have 2 PF's so I'm fairly familiar with them and their construction and places to find bits n pieces you may be missing.
There is a wealth of info in this forum. Spend some time "searching" in the R50 section b4 throwing random Q's out as the info may already be available in someone's prior post.
Cheers, V.
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Ok kids, since none of you were really helpful with my Q: What fuse controls the dash lights, I have the answer: It is the 7.5 amp, 2nd up from the bottom left side of the cabin fuse box...which so happened to be the 2nd LAST fuse I ended up pulling...it figures, right?.... So 2 of the 3 dash bulbs were burnt out and while the replacement ones I got worked, the original ones were slightly shorter and fatter. Not too sure if it will make any difference in the long term. The shifter and ashtray lights are still not working. But the bulbs tested out ok but who knows...more investigation is req'd.
That is all, V.
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Yeeeesh, I've got about the same miles as Adamzan and I've never even touched mine....is that a BAD thing????
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Only time she as ever failed me...
This failure may be more common than we realize...the real Q is: What actually failed??? Where's the weak link?
My '02 looked EXACTLY the same when I bought it. Ended up buying a complete rear end assy from the JY. Cost me $450 removed(w/a cat back exhaust in the deal too). I totally lucked out w/mine as someone had just replaced ALL the control arms on it!! Any chance of that option in ur local area??
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The simplest way is use an awl...in the sidewall...ALL the sidewalls. Tire places WON'T fix ANYTHING to do w/sidewalls. Haha, the feeling one experiences is MOST gratifying!
SIDE NOTE: It is my firm belief, that when you a new BMW, it comes with a special course that explains HOW to drive ur new Bimmer like a "Complete #@%¥in' a $ $ h 0 l e". Well, it seems like it up here, anywho.
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I know up here, you can buy "thumb screws" or threaded knobs, if you will, at Home Despot, in the hardware section in the little cubbies they have w/all the individually priced, oddball fasteners and such. Same sort of thing as you would find on a patio umbrella base that keeps the umbrella from spinning around.
Manual switch for ABS to act as traction control
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I think the pedal MAY need to be activated, which, would be counterproductive, yes? TBS, is it a "heavy" or sudden brake pressure that activates the ABS? SOMETHING triggers it. If its a heavy application, then a pressure switch is the most likely item. I WILL give you credit, it IS a clever idea...in theory. V.