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jasenpeters

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Everything posted by jasenpeters

  1. 1995 - Nissan Pathfinder - XE-V6, Manual (4WD design, but no 4WD) All, Had an accident during the recent (2021-Feb/Mar) ice storm here in ATX. Slid across MoPac and busted up the front/rear passenger wheel components. Namely, as the title says, I need to start with the Compression / Tension Rod (name, according to repair manuals). Sheared it right in half. I'm having trouble finding a replacement online. I just want to be sure, before going with a Nissan dealer, that there is or is not a more reputable (or well priced) alternative elsewhere. My local quote was about $105+ (per rod) from the dealer. Also, any recommendations for the remaining components up for consideration: - Strut / Shock Absorber - Lower Link - Upper Link - Torsion Bar Spring These items are all general components of the front suspension/steering, and it may require a complete rebuild (no problem, come what may). I understand that there may be many more sub/supporting components necessary. Thanks. PS: Please advise on how to get pics larger than 80k per post. Resolution becomes illegible at that size.
  2. Update: I replaced all 68 LEDs 5mm Clear Red High Bright 2.1v/30mA was the final measurements At about 13.2v Source. Took about 2hrs. Passed the inspection. Thanks yall
  3. ---> Slartibartfast You are correct. After disconnecting the hot side of the resistor to a few of the random groups of 4 LED's... None showed signs of improved brightness. I figure they are shot, old age.... I replace a few groups with some high output thru-hole LED's (I had some extra lying around) and the lit up bright as normal, ready for inspection. So, I've ordered another 50 or so to finish the job later. Yes, it's tedious, but it is also fun. I'll update with some final thoughts after I get the parts and get it working back to normal stock operation. Thank you all for your help, much gratitude.
  4. I'm thinking the trouble is at the board. I'm confident I traced the circuit board and have drawn the schematic correctly. I could sent closeup pix of the various sections of the PCBoard if that would help. I tested the connector (on the hatch) supplying the voltage and it was about 12 VDC (give or take), and, I tested a Dome light bulb to see if there was perhaps a current supply problem, but the test was only visual. The dome light lit up with normal brightness. So, I assume it can supply what's needed (perhaps). I also tested the LED strip(s) on a separate DC power supply, and the results were the same: Lowly Lit LED's. I even bypassed the limiting Diode at the beginning of the circuit with the same results, lowly lit LED's. I'm thinking I would have to somehow isolate each parallel line to see if perhaps, one of the series lines are drawing too much current away from the rest...? I don't mind the time it takes to do this, because I'm curious about the phenomena of what's going on. Other forums, so far, are suggesting buying a new strip. I get it. But I enjoy finding things out. That was an excellent explanation, and it gives me much to consider. Thanks for taking the time to write it out. I'll keep you posted on any further results.
  5. 1995 Nissan Pathfinder - XE - V6 Austin, Texas: DPS says you can't get a brake tag if your "Third" Brake Light is not working..... Brake Tag station attendant said that the light is out. The 3rd Brake Light is actually working but very dim. Upon removal of the light, voltage was tested across the Green and Black wires: 12 VDC Hooked up the LED light array to another 12 VDC source to verify: Same results, a very dimly lit LED array. All LED's appear to be lighting up, just very dim. I inspected the printed circuit board and drew a schematic (see pdf attachment) Also, having trouble finding this particular circuit in the 1995 NP Service Manual: https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ I know I may have to replace the lights with an alternative (perhaps 2 or 3 incandescent or something), but since the LED's all light up (dimly), I figure there may be a chance to the repair circuit, or at least, confirm what is going on (what's failing). Thank you for any advice. 1995 NPathfinder XE-V6 - Brake LED Array.pdf
  6. Thanks P&TJ, that's what I saw on the diagram too. But does it require any special tools to get at without tearing the whole thing apart? Separating the front case (bell house) doesn't seem too bad. The beergarage (link above) guy, takes those "front" bearings off last, for some reason. So when I was reviewing that I assumed you have to take it all apart to get to those particular "front" bearings. But, if taking those "front" bearings off is nothing more than a simple puller (those bearings are at the very end of the shafts) and maybe a clever way to "press" new ones back on, then it should be an easy job, if there is no other significant damage to the tranny. I do understand that you "should" have it all opened up and inspected for a proper rebuild. But for those who know the symptoms and risks, it may be a fix that can get you going without all the special tools for a full job, until you can get the tranny to a shop. I'm not trying to short cut, just survive. Anyway the shop's got it now. But I will never know what the actual issues were, in spite of what they tell me, unless I see it myself. I did ask them to save the "parts", so we'll see. I'm always eager to learn more. Thanks for all the comments.
  7. 1) I was just wondering, if it is known that only the "front" bearings (ie behind the front cover) need replacing, would it be an easy job, that is, not requiring complex special tools or disassembly of the transmission as with the more "internal" bearings?
  8. Hey everyone, We brought it to a place here in Austin to get repaired. I decided that, though it looked like a lot of fun to do myself, I did not want to buy all the tools needed for a "Full Kit" rebuild, assuming there were no other issues like gear or shaft damage. However, we did remove the transmission ourselves (we've done it about 8 years ago to replace the clutch) and sent it in for a "bench" job. We saved at least $500 on labour and $400 on parts and services (which included a mandatory flywheel resurface). I do have a few questions if y'all don't mind: 1) If I were to replace the "front case bearings", as per PathyAndTheJets, would this require any special pullers, separators or other tools? From the FSM on the 5Speed V6 2WD FS5R30A type transmission: The front Bearing for the Main Drive Gear is right behind the front cover surrounding the "input Shaft" (Main Drive Gear?). Same location for the Counter Gear Front Bearing. This would be only pertaining to the bearings that may be easily accessible and replacable without having to take apart the whole transmission as in the case for the remaining bearings. Could I also assume that these "front" bearings take the most beating (especially the Main Drive Gear Bearing) because of the proximity to the Input Shaft? There was also some leakage of trans fluid inside the bell housing, which may indicate the MDG Bearing is suffering. 2) Precise1 or anyone else who may know, regarding the Timing Belt Are there other components besides the belt and tensioner? I found a Cloyes and a Gates set at Rock Auto. Any advice is appreciated. 3) Clutch brand? I was looking at Grip Force Stage 2. Or Luk?
  9. Excellent write up on the re-build! Timing Belt, rear seal, clutch, etc, I can handle and will do while tranny is getting rebuilt. I just rebuilt a '96 Saturn SC2 engine. Tempting to rebuild the Pathfinder transmission, but I'm not sure I have the time.
  10. Thanks Precise1, mine looks likes yours in the picture (a bit cleaner, but not as cool ) Is a rebuild more than just the bearings? I wont hold you to it, but what would you estimate the cost, including removal? (which, btw, I'll definitely do, if it can save a lot) Is the Nissan dealer any better or worse than a strictly transmission shop? How long could one go driving with bad bearings, what could happen, etc? Thanks for the feedback and glad to be here. We love this car and want to keep her going strong.
  11. The SUV has been getting noisier over the past 6 months and seems to be related to the transmission. It's so loud you can hear it coming in the neighborhood. Of course, the sound is coming from the clutch/transmission area and is quiet in neutral or in gear with clutch in, ie not moving. The shifting is as easy as it always has been, but the "winding" up sound is getting louder and louder in the past 6 months. Manual transmission fluid is full and relatively clean. Strangely, 4th gear is the quietest, so quiet, in fact, we sometimes drive it in 4th instead of 5th or 3rd if the speed is appropriate. The clutch is 120k miles old and was changed back at about 120k miles. Total miles about 240k on the SUV. We plan on changing the clutch ourselves, and if the noise does not quiet down, we plan on taking it to a transmission specialist, as a rebuild or repair is beyond my desire. (unless it's a simple repair) Any ideas or advice is appreciated. Thanks
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