Mr_Reverse
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Posts posted by Mr_Reverse
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I didn't bother tapping into a switched power for any of my e-fan conversions. They have all always been hot. The fans don't run enough to hurt the battery when the engine is off.
If I was going to have it switched, I would pick a convenient circuit that isn't a critical one and use it to run a relay to feed the fan controller.
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You might want to try Nissan for many of the parts. You will want a timing chain kit. When you have it apart, you will want to inspect both of the timing covers closely for damaged gaskets in the internal oil passages. The front cover is known to have the gasket fail between the cover and the passage plates screwed in the backside of the cover. Those gaskets are not available as far as I know, but can be easily made. When I was at the dealership we just replaced the timing cover when they developed internal leaks. It was not terribly expensive. Those passages are for the variable cam timing phasers, so when they leak, you have cam timing codes and poor running pop up. There is a couple of tiny screens in there too, be careful not to lose them. Many of the gaskets are from a tube, but there is a bunch of little O-rings used.
I suggest getting a FSM for your engine and read it. Use the exploded diagrams to make a list of all the little parts you are going to be replacing.
I am going to warn you now, Nissan engines are not inexpensive to rebuild. Years ago I built a Z24/Z22 Frankenstein for my 1980 200SX, and it wound up costing about $1000. And it was a primitive SOHC 4 cyl. Also, they have very tight tolerances and will not tolerate mistakes very well.
Good luck, do it right and you will have a very good engine when done.
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When you say you checked the fuses, were the ones you checked in the interior fuse box? Did you check the fuses under the hood as well? The IPDM has fuses hidden in it as well. If all the fuses are good and no noticable problems in the wiring like loose connectors in the HVAC head and radio, then you might want to consider taking it in to a dealership for diagnosis. It is possible that the IPDM is failing, or another module is bad. Trying to remember, but I think there is a unit that is called something like instrument amp that can cause your problems.
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I don't deny that there was a problem in there, I am just saying that the H233B differential is very easy to set up. However, I also know that no matter how simple you make something, someone will find a way to screw it up. A good percentage of my work is to repair "fixes" that are done by people who should not be allowed to touch a wrench.
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Possible it is finding its way in under the roof rack, but with it up front at the sun visor, I am more inclined to suspect the windshield seal.
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I found that trimmer line works great for clearing the drains and for pulling wires through the car.
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Yep, it is a possibility, not a definite killer. Working in a shop, you quickly learn to CYA. There are a lot of people who will blame you and your work for all the problems their abused and neglected wreck is suffering from. Years back, the shop I was working in had to deal with a customer that had their Astro van in 4 months before for just an oil change. The van was towed in because 4 months and about 6k miles later the left front wheel fell off. Turns out the driver hit a large pothole just right at 60 mph and blew the tire and broke the aluminum wheel. But in their mind, we were the last ones to work on the pos, so it was our fault it broke. I deal with that kind of crap several times each month, not that extreme, but still that kind of stuff. It gets old and expensive if you don't have documentation and warnings up front.
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Basically the flush breaks up the accumulated varnish and debris that helps keep the various seals sealing on the worn parts. The flushing out of that stuff sometimes prevents the seals from doing their job causing internal pressure leaks. That tends to erode more from the seals. Then the various pistons can't apply proper pressure to the bands allowing slippage. Once that starts, the trans eats itself.
That's why I warn customers that have neglected engines and cooling systems that problems are likely after a flush or major servicing. Oil leaks are common after a neglected engine gets cleaned out and cooling systems are a nightmare after major work.
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Trans is broken. That is the classic failure for the trans. First reverse goes away. Over time forward gears start to go away after reverse goes. When mine went, I found a local shop that rebuilt and upgraded the trans for less than it would cost to replace it at the time. That was about 17-18 years ago.
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Sketchy, but you can set a floor jack on a platform to do the lift.
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I currently have the sunroof glass from an 01 Xterra in my 93 Pathfinder. I only had to change the latch. I was going to go with an R50 glass I had found, but the outer seal was better on the X. That seems to indicate that the seals are likely similar since the glass is. That is with the manual units. Aftermarket and powered sunroofs are a different matter.
Years ago I bought a replacement outer seal for mine from the dealer, but I never was able to get it to fit quite right. So when it crumbled again, I just spent $25 and replaced the entire unit.
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I would just do the drain and fill routine. If it still looks bad, do it again in about a week. That is the safest way. Otherwise talk to a shop about flushing the trans, but there is a chance of a full flush causing a failure in a high mileage neglected trans.
As for the fluid, the dextron fluids are backwards compatible. So any synthetic dextron type fluid will be good.
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Never delt with a pre programed valve body when I was working at the dealership. The various shops would simply do the trans work or replacement then send it over to get it programed. Haven't seen the trans program cause a no start either. Possible that the PRNDL switch is damaged, or misadjusted. When the trucks came in to have the trans flashed, they would turn on the warning lights and stay in first gear untill they got properly programed.
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Well, we all know GM has a couple of definitions. Great mistake and government motors kinda fits...
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Odd, they are one of the easier differentials to work on. At least I find them easier to set up than a Ford 8.8 or GM 10/12 bolt.
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Not a problem I have seen that I can recall. It does sound like the motor relay might be stuck, or a failure in the control module.
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Might have to do a visual inspection of the wiring between the DRL module and left headlight socket. Probably a wire that got some damage that allowed water in and corrosion to form in the wire. If the low beam is getting full power, it might just be the high beam positive wire. If you feel comfortable with doing some minor damage to the wire, you can run a temporary jumper from near the connector at the DRL module to the headlight socket and see if the light gets full brightness. If so, you know there is a problem with that wire.
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Good info to know. Somehow I have managed to pass over learning much about the R50. It is kind of an odd duck in the Nissan truck line up.
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Sounds to me like the timing is off. Easiest test is running a compression test on all cylinders. If one of the cams is out of time(usually the right) you will have lower compression. Other option is to pull the upper cam covers and recheck the timing marks are aligned when the crankshaft is at 0° on the timing mark. If neither one is there, turn the crank until you can see the cam marks lined up and see where the crank is positioned. I had the key break in my crankshaft sprocket that made it impossible for the crankshaft to stay in time with the cams with my original engine.
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Sounds like a poor ground in the wiring to the left headlight. Now you know why us professional wrench monkeys charge so much for electrical issues. There is a lot of tedious labor involved.
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Is there a lock-right for your diff? A buddy of mine and I spent the night before a Moab run years ago swapping the 3rd members between our WD21s. His was a 95 XE with open diff and mine was a 93SE with LSD. I wanted a locker, he wanted LSD, and we were both autos so had matching 4.63's. the lock-right just replaced the spiders, keeping the side gears so axle spline counts didn't matter. When we figured out while in Moab that the thrust block in the center of his diff that stayed home in my garage along with the spider gears was needed to keep the axle bearings happy in his drum brake axle and got it installed, we were both happy with the results.
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I can't say for sure on the regulator since it is not there from 93 on. It does seem to look different though to my hazy memory.
With the connector plug that won't separate, if it won't separate with the locking tab pressed in, the plug has probably melted a little internally welding it together. I have experienced that where the connectors are not tight causing higher resistance. That leads to hotspots in the plug, leading to melting the plastic together.
Then there are idiots like some engineers at GM a while back that decided the best way to seal the PRNDL switch connector on the truck transmission and a few others under there was to hot glue the connectors together. Broke a couple until I found the TSB saying to use a heat gun on it until it is just about to melt the housing to get it to unplug. Apparently dielectric grease in the plug was too simple a solution.
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So what was wrong with it?
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If you are certain that the play is in the bearings, then it wouldn't hurt to take a look. Once you get the drive flange off, you can look at the grease in the hub. If it looks ok, I would go ahead and tighten the bearing nut a bit and if there is no noise or roughness as the wheel turns, not really worry about it.
It is much better for the bearings to be a little loose than too tight. If you lived with a twin traction beam or twin I beam Ford truck, you would know all about keeping the bearings slightly loose.
96 Pathy rear axel bearing replacement
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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I can't imagine the suspension links to cause any problems with the axle bearings. Are you sure the bearing is bad? I also don't see the bearing as being that expensive, more like $30 I think. They can be a bit of work to replace, and will require a replacement seal and retainer ring. The instructions in the manual has you drilling a hole in the retainer then using a chisel to break the retainer. Then using a bearing separator and a press to press the old bearing off. Assembly is stack the parts in proper order and press the bearing into place and the new retainer.
Edit, I just remembered replacing the bearing and seal on the 95 my friend had. The retainer was not pressed on with his, it was a big nut that was screwed into the axle shaft. That was easier in that no cutting was involved and a press was not required, just makes it easier.
Not sure which method your axle has.