Mr. Pickles

Thanks! At 1am, no less.

Somebody a while back posted the part # to use when calling Summit (I think that's where they shopped). Anyways, I'm trying to find that # and have been searching the forum with no luck. Does anybody have that off-hand? Summit only seems to list full Hardbody kit. I'm getting ready to order the UCA's, along with shocks. I like the Calmini UCA's, but I don't think I wheel (and jump) hard enough to warrant the added cost, which is really only $75-100 more since they come with new upper ball joints. But I'm sure I need all new ball joints anyways, and there's a kit on eBay in the $50's. And, I am doing this on a budget since we're looking at selling our home and upgrading. So... the Superlift UCA's, stripped of the rest of the Hardbody kit, would be what I'm after.

Hence, what I said, only streamlined and specific.

If I remember right, I think somebody had posted something about replacing the bearings in the idler pulley rather than replacign the whole thing. You might search for it, probably 1 year + ago. And if you find it, post it again. Mine has been making some noise.

My only interior mods up front are the CB mounted on the side of the tranny tunnel, the Eclipse deck, and 6 blue LED's (3 per side) under the dash. All the effort has been put into the exterior so far.

There are some pretty steep prices on many of those parts.

I don't know if its the design or the glass used, but they seem to crack or brake regularly, and many people (myself included) decide to scrap the high priced stock units for cheaper aftermarket ones of a similar size. Check the Pilot swap on one of the sticky's in the Garage section. They're cheaper and put out much better light.

I hope you got it for REALLY cheap, cause that kind of swap job isn't going to come very cheap.

Like has been said, check the wheel balance as that's cheap. If not, who knows, maybe they reach some sort of resonant requency (correct term?) where they have the right hum or vibration on your Pathy at that speed to make noise.

Maybe that's your ticket. If its used springs from a junkyard Jeep here, how are the customs people going to know. Just say a friend sent them to you for free, or you bought them on eBay for $5. Maybe they'd just see some used metal, call it good enough, and send you on your way. Anyways, just trying to help out. I see no issues whatsoever with sidestepping a government or 2. :secret:

On the towing note, does anybody else have mileage experiences while towing? I have a 5speed and was quite suprised at the mpg, as it only lost a minimal amount. Around town she drinks a bit, but on the highway she doesn't seem to care much what the load is. I also drove the same trip with the roof rack loaded with tall Rubbermaid storage containers full of camping gear, plus tents, etc. at 75mph and didn't notice much of a drop at all because of the drag. Maybe its a 5speed thang.

What is the capacitator actually used for??? I've seen them in stores but never quite got it. Its kinda like a mini-battery. It stores a charge between bass hits and such, so that when the amp pulls a bunch of power at once, you don't stress the rest of your charging system as much. Pretty much, it helps with safer power draw and more stable power for the rest of your accessories. Here's my sub box with the Sony's, and the recently installed Phoenix Gold cap. Yes, I need to clean up the wiring eventually.

Oh yeah, on the towing issue, I don't know about long term abuse issues as I rarely tow with the Pathy, but I towed a round trip of approx. 500 miles with a 16' boat with a 120hp outboard (not sure of the weight- its my brother's redneck special -alcohol- ) loaded with 3 coolers of food and drinks on ice along with excessive camping gear for 4 for a 3 day weekend, more crap in the Pathy along with said 4 people. The old girl tracked fine and pulled no problemo over 2 passes (Snoqualmie and Ryegrass in WA). Not only did we get along fine, but over the course of the trip I only lost about 2mpg! I think if you push it occassionally but within reason, you'll be ok. But mainly it would depend on load, terrain travelled, frequency, speed, etc. Common sense stuff really. If you keep things within reason, probably your main area for concern would be braking. Sorry for the postjack, but you say you have a salvage truck. You don't have a post in the newbie section, so I'll ask here. Do you have any pics of the wreckage and or thoughts of what needs to be replaced? Somebody somewhere always seems to have parts laying around for cheap, and the rest of us like some carnage shots. If so, post in a new thread please!

Maybe a ______ company (no idea what kind of co. has the equipment) would be willing to do so. Somebody fill in the blanks! Somebody with a big enough lathe or similar machine tool that could ensure a straight and true bore. If they're free to you, and you could slip somebody $100 or something for the work, you'd still come out ahead. At this point its time to talk to your friends, your local 4wd shop, ricer shop, etc. and start brainstorming, cause you obviously can't walk to the corner garage on this one.

FNL, is there any customs break for "gifts" from international relatives? And if so, do they inspect packages? Maybe you could "adopt" one of us as your cousin, then we could send you a birthday gift of new toys. :shrug

True that. Keep up the regular maintenance, and you shouldn't have to replace anything until the part is ready to tell you it needs replacement. 250Km is only about middle-age for a Nissan.

I bought 1 a few years ago from an online parts store (don't remember the name) and it was still only like $40. The Stealer wanted something like 3 X's that, way over $100. :o

You're incredibly confused. Where did foam enter the equation of a cotton gauze K&N filter? Foam would be of the cheap a$$ ricer variety.

Thanks, that'll be $5 please. :contract:

Definately check! Losing your brakes is a BAD THING. If you're not sure what to look for, take it to a chain brake shop, as most will do an inspection for free. Sure, they may try and get you for bogus stuff, but they most likely will also find the problem. Then, if they're reasonable and its something you don't want to mess with, let them do it. If not, have at it on your own and consider it their fault for trying to screw you.

I was just doing an across-the-board comparison based on towing, and the Nissan tops at 9500 lbs for ALL models, matched by 1 of the many Ford F150's but the other models run less, and the rest of the truck pack was lower and generally only had the max tow rating in 1 or a few of the models of their line. Wound end up with the Chevy Silverado at 9000 lb max, the Dodge 1500 at 8750, and the Toyota in the basement at 7100. On an amusing note to the American flag waving truck elite, according to my reading, only the Nissan, Ford and Toyota can put an assembled in America tag without an asterik (*). Dodge splits production with US and Mexican factories, and Chevy splits with Canadian ones. Not that this is a hit on those countries at all, just a nod to the love the (*). Kinda like what will one day be in the record books next to Giambi (*), Bonds (*), Canseco (*),...

And they're cheap. I just picked up a set from Central 4Wheel Drive for $22.

That's a strange little toy. But if it works, it works. Pull Pal

That would be helpful, although I the part #'s don't seem to interchange between Pro Comp & Summit. I guess I should call them, just to make sure. Have you stretched yours offroad on full estension before? I just wanna make sure they don't blow up. My front end is only about 2" lifted from stock with the stock UCA's (for now) so it hopefully will fall close enough into specs.

Well, that sounds good enough... probably. The advertised specs were stock up to 1 3/4 inch lift for a Hardbody. If the shocks interchange, and they go up to 1 3/4" vs. my roughly 2+" of suspension, then I should be close enough since I'm not exactly rock crawling and stuff regularly at full extension.