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SkiBumBrian

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Posts posted by SkiBumBrian

  1. Got my Magnaflow Cat and muffler today in the mail. I also have my new exhaust studs, gaskets and hardware for when I get some Thorley headers.

    My question is, I want to rebuild everything from the cat back now and install the headers at a later date when I have more coin. Is there a preferred place to do the "splice" that would make installation of the headers later easier and/or cheaper? Maybe some type of flange in an appropriate place for mating the 2 halves?

    Lemme know if this is an acceptable idea or if I should just stare at them in the corner until I can do the whole system.

    Thanks!

  2. Thanks, I plan on watching and listening closely. I am carrying a laser thermometer too so when I get out after a good long drive I can take some readings at the end of the axle. I am a bit anal about noises coming from my vehicles so I don't expect anything to get by me for long.... These next few days of commuting will speak volumes. Thanks again!

  3. Caswell makes a gas tank sealer that works well. It will fill smaller holes and coats the inside of the tank with a layer of epoxy. Awesome stuff, about 40 bucks online will do a 20 gallon tank...Blue Lightning also makes a similar product that I use on Poly tanks, Caswell does not bond to cross-linked polyethylene (XLPE).

     

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  4. OK, here is the story. Not as eventful as it could have been, thankfully.

    It is not as big of a PITA as I thought it would be. The biggest pain is removing the emergency brake cable which entails dismantling the drum brake behind the disc rotor(if you have disc brakes). if you have drum brakes I bet you can skip a step. After you get that free and remove the four nuts holding the axle assembly to the axle housing the axle should pull out with a few grunts.

    Then you will be looking at 2 surfaces, the seal that stayed in the axle housing and the assembly on the axle which holds the bearing. All the bearing assembly is held together and controls the axial play by a castle nut with a lock washer. Here is where my issue was found (I think). I noticed that the castle nut was not locked by the lock washer but continued to remove the castle nut like anyone would that did not own the special Nissan tool, with a large punch and a hammer.... It came off quite easily and exposed the seal and bearing. After close inspection I decided that the bearing and seal were in awesome condition and would not pull the bearing. I deduced that the castle nut was the culprit, loosening and allowing some lateral play in the axle (had it been like this since 1991?). I reinstalled the castle nut, tightening it in the same Neanderthal method I removed it with a bit more torque determined by the swing of my hammer....

    After swearing and giggling about the tedious job of reassembling the E brake mechanism, she went back together and it was time for a test drive at 2 o'clock in the morning. I headed to the Safeway parking lot, lots of speed bumps and dips where the symptoms reared their ugly head in the first place. The problem had all but gone away. The movement was diminished to almost none but I could have tightened that castle nut another 1/4 turn I bet.... I am gonna drive it like this for a day or 2 and see how it feels. It went from feeling like the rear end was gonna fall off to an almost indistinguishable nuisance. When I go back in for the final tweaking I suppose I can have this done in less than a couple of hours.

    So the long story short (too late). This really is no big deal, if you need to replace seals or bearings and have a puller in your arsenal this is quite a simple, straightforward, procedure. If my present diagnosis is incorrect and have to dive back in I wont worry about it, there are ALOT of other things more time consuming and difficult. I am just glad the problem wasn't in the LSD....

  5. Anybody ever service or replace the rear wheel bearings? I am in the process of replacing whatever is shot in my rear bearing carrier. I know the FSM shows all the fancy Nissan specialty tools for doing the job but was wondering if anyone has accomplished this without the axle slide hammer, press, etc. gotta wait til payday to tackle it but would like some feedback before I start this next week.

  6. Been trying to figure out this "noise" since the lift. During slow turns with changes in elevation I feel and hear a thump, thump, thump, but no slipping per say. Only seems to do it at extremely slow speeds and on bumps. My first thought was the LSD, then I thought maybe wheel bearings, then I thought maybe the new Rancho shocks topping out... I am gonna take some laser temp readings on the end of the axles tomorrow after driving to work to look for excessive heat in either axle looking toward bearing issues. Any thoughts? Rebuilding the clutch pack looks like a PITA, thinking maybe I should go with a standard rear end and a locker, only because all the tolerances in rebuilding the LSD looks insane.

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