fast5speed

I, too, am sad I am late to the party and didn't get to see a picture. The way you guys are talking about it makes it seem like I really missed out

when I read the title, I thought this thread was asking if you absolutely needed a clutch safety switch. You don't, if that's what you want to know. When I did my 5speed swap, I just soldered the two wires together for the (I believe mine was called a neutral safety switch?) relay and effectively just completed the circuit. Works great. Never need to push the clutch pedal in to start the car! Really nice for when I don't want to get all the way in it and press the clutch to start it. Like when I'm doing work on it or something and don't want to open the door a million times. If your Pathy was originally an automatic, it should be fairly obvious. If so, there's probably still the A/T computer under the passenger seat. And if it's been taken out, there should be a bunch of remaining wires. Also, the carpet around the shifter and boot should be pretty ill-fitting. Another indicator is if everything looks factory around the pedal area where ahardb0dy posted a picture. If it looks legit, it's probably not been modified. When I put the 5speed brake and clutch pedal brackets in, it seemed like half the connectors weren't available for the sensors, forcing me to solder/jump the clutch switch. As far as possibly trying to fix your original issue and keep it as factory as possible, I would suggest you whip out a circuit tester (one of those little needle looking things with a ground clip and a lightbulb) and test the prongs on the relay as it's installed to see if it's relaying power as it should.

I have 1994 D21. 4x4, v6 all that good stuff. Pretty much the same as your WD21s as I understand, as far as the steering system goes. Pretty much, for some reason, I can't properly install my tie rods. I'm running into a couple different issues. First of all, the biggest issue is that, after a certain point, I cannot tighten the castle nut anymore. At a certain point, the mini-ball joint that makes up the bolt of the tie rod just spins in place. I try to turn the nut, and the bolt just spins. So I thought...this is ridiculous. There has to be something wrong. So I looked at the ball-joint/bolt OF the tie rod. And it's tapered. So I assumed that, somehow, the bolt of the tie rod is supposed to be pressed down into the knuckle? So the friction from the tapered part will stop the bolt from spinning? So I assumed that the tie rod has to be pressed down further into the hole. But, previously, I was already a bit nervous about putting too much pressure on the tie rod that the grease boot would squeeze against the knuckle and break. I will make a video and post it soon, but does anyone have any input at the moment? I've tried to gently use vise-grips to try to hold the bolt in place while turning the nut, but I can never get enough threads on the bolt to get a good grab. Also, I don't want to bugger the threads.

No offence, but on a scale of "not worth it" this one is probably at the top. It would become the epitome of "I wish I never started this project" Going auto to manual isn't that bad because it's mostly removing things. Going from manual to auto would be awful because there are so many things to add. torque converter, flex plate, transmission cooler, lines, trans computer, wiring, center console, etc etc. I believe it would consume a lot of your valuable time, cost a lot more money than you expect, and, in the end, your vehicle now has a lower resale value.

You can put all of it through the gear shifter. Be very gentle when trying to take out the drain plug. It is not the same size as a 1/2 drive socket head. but it will be tempting. It is, in fact, a larger size.

You had me worried! truly cringe-worthy. I admire you trying to keep your frame in such good condition. There should be more owners like you. Drilling slightly larger holes sounds like a very good idea to me. With all the gutterwork I've done in my life, I know it only takes a small leaf to start a clog in an entire gutter drainage system. When I wash my truck, I always spray the hose in as many holes of the frame as I can reach and spray it 360 degrees in the wellwheels. Haven't tried the pressure washer yet, but I've been fantasizing about it. Kinda scared what might come out though

Oh boy. You need to have a look under the hood of an older Volvo. I was helping a friend pull the motor on a 1975 Volvo 242. Holy brake lines! Dual master cylinders and 10 brake lines! In the service manual, bleeding the brake system is quoted as a 3 hour job. To address the OP, I think it would probably be best to use new parts. You can pick up brand newcalipers off Rockauto for like ~$30/side. Alternatively, you could buy a rebuild kit with new seals and all that. If replacing the calipers doesn't work then the other options are the master cylinder, and possibly an older brake line becoming porous I suppose. Can you have someone press on the brakes really hard and look for leaks? If your brake system is somehow sucking in air (other than due to the MC being empty), it must also leak fluid under high pressure.

x2 The reason why these great trucks are in the junkyard all the time... That revised Nissan part looks fantastic! and only $20! Not even worth my time attempting to solder my old one. As of very recently, I've been experiencing intermittent sputtering at idle and around 2300-2800 RPM, but only in 3rd gear (or so it seems). I have a 5 speed, so it is very odd to think that a problem only occurs in a certain gear. For the idle, the truck will bounce up and down, but not come close to actually stalling, for about 10 seconds, then stop. It's only happened twice in the past month. I was driving today, and my truck just acted like it was out of gas, in that 3rd gear 2300-2800rpm situation. It would sputter, seem like it had no power, and almost made me put my hazards on and park it. Then, I pressed the gas pedal a little harder and it came back to life spectacularly. Also, if I shift to 4th gear, it will act normal and power right through the 2300-2800 range with no issues. I thought it was a fluke, but I was able to reproduce the results pretty reliably. Is my issue possibly related to a loose MAF ground? If so, is there a way to test it under normal conditions? Or do I have to catch the issue in the act and jiggle the wire? Would my ECU have any invisible codes stored?

WOW!! Thanks. That was the issue. You nailed it instantly. I'm impressed. Most of my contacts had some black sort of build up. I think the issue is that they aren't actuating properly to make contact, as opposed to the build-up being the problem. I never would have guessed this. Now I know the issue and can snag a new one from the JY.

Sometimes they just do, I guess. When there is too much load on the circuit perhaps. I know I've blown that fuse twice and it was because I tried to plug in the dash cluster after the truck was already turned on. Looking at one of those tiny red 10A fuses, it's easy to think maybe they could become subject to corrosion or wearing down some other way. If that happened, then they would have an even lower than advertised threshold before they blow. Sent from my SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

Reminds me of that guy on here several months ago that had us all on a wild goose chase. "The vg30e in my wd21 pumps out 200+hp and gets 30+mpg. Custom rear end, blah blah blah." Anyone else remember that guy? Said he was like 19 or something and fabricated everything in his spare time. To be honest, the MPGs our trucks get are kinda above average. I have a D21 King Cab, 4x4, 5 speed, SEV6. I use it for work, so it always has ~300-400lbs in the back. I'm running the stock 31x10.5 tires. My driving is probably 70/30 city/hwy. I get a solid average of 17-19mpg. I know it's not always a fair comparison, but most other [pick-up] trucks get like...low teens. Sometimes single digits. For a short time, I was looking to get a 1999-2005 F-250. The ones with the v10 struggle for 14mpg 100% hwy. The v8 gas managed 16mpg. ~12mpg or less in city. I was on InfamousNissan for a minute, and I think I remember the 4cyl 2wd 5speed hardbodies getting something like 24mpg at most. I think I'll stick with my 17city/22hwy. but you know what they say, it's all in the driver. Sometimes my 1995 Honda Civic hatchback gets 40+mpg, but I've managed to return less than 28mpg on occasion. But if you're determined, there are some basics you can do: reduce weight, reduce resistance, change gear ratios. You could take out the rear seats. Leave your spare tire at home. Remove A/C components (100+lbs believe it or not). Installing lighter wheels makes a huge difference. You could get thinner tires to reduce rolling resistance. But watch out, your braking power and suspension response will diminished. They will also wear faster.

It was more like 5 hours until I finally decided to use a compression tester and find it was blown. 5 hours of cleaning the carb, checking for spark, checking ignition timing, checking fuel supply, etc etc. You know how it is. Have to take everything apart and put it back together for every check lol. It didn't help that I was led on by it starting and running a few times, but only for a couple revolutions at a time. Back when I was stupid and didn't know anything about much of anything. I just kind thought 'well It's gotta start one of these times'.

It's not really this simple. Yes, it is true, but is too basic and oversimplified to be helpful. Actually, there are 4 requirements for an ICE to work. Spark, air, fuel, and compression. Realized that one the hard way when I spent 5 hours trying to kick-start a dirt bike to find out the cylinder needed to be bored. It sure did have fuel, air, and spark though!

Hi there o'knowledgeable NPORA members! Today (for the past few weeks actually) I've been having odd electrical issues. First, the low-beam on my passenger head light went out. Then, I noticed the high-beam on my driver's headlight went out. Odd, I thought, since the pass. headlight is only 5 months old. A couple days later (hadn't repaced headlights yet), at a red light, my dash lights suddenly flickered. A few days after that, I turned my headlights on, and my dash lights didn't come on, but my head lights still worked the same (one high, one low beam on opposite sides). I do landscaping, so I only drive my truck during day light, but I figured it was time to figure out what the heck is going on. I put in new headlights, and nothing changed. Still have the same low beam out, and the same high beam out. Checked my fuses for head lights and dash lights, all fuses working. Then, I noticed that my tail lights weren't working. I assume the tail lights are tied into the dash lights. When I say "dash lights" I mean the illumination lights for gauges. My idiot lights (CEL, battery, oil, brake, etc etc) still work. Is my headlight selector stalk broken or am I having serious issues with grounds? Looking to fix this relatively soon as we recently got a snowstorm and I need the 4x4 on the truck to get around. Thanks guys

definitely doesn't sound like a battery issue. The lack of dash lights is a dead give away for a blown "Meter" or "tail light" fuse. I can't remember. Check those fuses and see what comes up. I'm not sure about always, but in my experience, when that particular fuse blows (dash lights), my tail lights also don't work when I turn the headlights on. I'm pretty sure they are linked on the same fuse, which is why I can't remember if it's Meter or Tail Light.