pathyguy87

No vibrations with mine, but I do experience similar symptoms of the kick or slack. I feel it when I am coming on/off the accelerator and when shifting. I think it is inherent in the locker design, but it does bother me to be honest. Like you, I thought it was the rear control arm bushings getting worn out, but I am reluctant to change them out for nothing.

I just checked the plastic gear for the cable, I was really expecting to find it all worn down. I might try driving it around with the cluster removed

Forgive me guys, I know this topic has been beaten to death. I have looked at all the threads and I am just stumped. My issue is the speedo never really works, sometimes it bobbles randomly or just reads 0. My trip and odometer do not function either. So I started to troubleshoot the different components that are known to fail. Here's what I have done: 1. Removed the gauge cluster and and spin the speedo with a drill motor. It appears to read just fine 0-60+ 2. Removed and repaired the white plastic sprung tip that inserts into the gauge cluster 3. Got under the truck and use the same drill motor to spin the cable. I get the same readings on the speedo 0-60+ 4. Pulled and inspected the speedo gear inside the trans, It appears to be in great condition with no signs of distortion. So what am I missing? I don't know where else to look

not sure lol

The install is very straight forward. Just remove the 4x4 badges to reveal the mounting holes. You will need 4 bolts to mount the bar, I used allen style bolts with a countersunk head. The 4x4 badges will have to be shaved smooth on the backside so you can re apply them onto the light bar. The other thing I want to mention is the rubber seal that runs around the bar. I suggest when you inquire about the light bar, make sure that seal is included.

Ok so I recently purchased a Terrano clinometer and I am preparing for install. My truck has square dash style, and I have removed the center air vent for better access. I can see there are in fact 4 square holes beneath the dash pad that will mate to the clinometer bracket. However, I am not sure how to go about cutting/drilling the dashboard to mount this thing. So I am curious if anyone has done this before and can offer tips or advice.

I am currently prepping for a body lift removal. Today I removed front and rear bumpers, the front bumper lift bracket was a pain to get to. Went to the parts store to get shorter bolts for the body. Hoping the rest of this job goes smoothly

The lockright will only fit in an open diff housing

Make sure your interlock switch is in the off position.

Did the maxima alternator upgrade today. Definitely an easy project if anyone is thinking about doing it. I just had to swap over the pulley and trim the fan spacer from my stock alternator. After that, it bolts right in. Also, scored an extra lego wheel at pull-a-part this morning

Here's an older pic, I have since changed wheels and added a brush guard

http://omaha.craigslist.org/cto/4504501622.html ?

Me and a buddy spent the afternoon installing my new (old) brush guard. It was meant to go on a stock truck without a body lift, so we fabbed up some mounting tabs to make it work. Im happy with the outcome!

Mount the lower brackets, and let the tire carrier rest on that. Now you can make your marks for the corner brackets. An extra set of hands is helpful, good luck

Yep, that 3M tape is exactly what I used. I use it for all kinds of stuff, it holds great

Swapped out the lights on my targa bar. I was running some smaller fog lights, but I upgraded to the factory Boschs. These things are huge! Thanks to vagabond for trading me two of the lights I needed

I think your rear height looks fine. The front, I suggest reindex the T bars as mentioned. Yes, your camber will be off, this is normal. You will need an alignment when you're done

yes I used the exact part shown in the pictures #KC09103BK. And they do not compress much at all, so you get the full 1.5 inches. Fitment is spot on.

I tried it, works great! My pathy is level now. Installed in about 30 mins

well I'm right in the middle of doing some rear wheels bearings. I was not getting much drama from the rear end, like grinding or howling. Just a slight vibration. I began looking around. With the rear off the ground, I could grab the wheel and move it up down left right in and out. all directions about 10mm easily. very loose and wobbly I cant find much on the forums of somebody actually doing them. Most people say "you shouldnt have to do them" or "they last a million miles." My question is, whats the best way to press the old bearing off? Im having trouble finding a shop that is willing/able to do it.