Karmann
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Posts posted by Karmann
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I wouldn't worry too much about the topping out issue, perfect choice for what you use your truck for btw. They're the perfect combo of ride and handling on and off road.
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Pretty interesting, I had one of the Nissan/Infiniti design centers up my street for a little while, always saw all the latest products floating around. Now Hyundai does the same a couple doors down.
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Good lord that is crispy. You might want to do some sort of rust-preventative measure on them this time around.
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Exactly! It's not a show car, and I never want it to be, so I'm completely ok with it being a 10 footer.Looks pretty good from 10 feet away...
I agree, with rear tint you almost have to upgrade the reverse lights to not be dangerous.
B
And that's my reasoning too. Plus everybody loves a light show.
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If you want to avoid having to have the key ON (using unnecessary battery power) and tranny in "R" ( which means your rig potentially could roll away), consider wiring the lights on a separately controllable circuit. I recently installed a Universal Remote Control Kit to operate the BlitzPro lights from a key fob. It was pretty easy to wire up and it works great.
Hmm, that's not bad at all.... Right now my primary function is turning them on when parked on a level surface (sleeping platform habitat), and I have a DieHard Platinum AGM battery, so typically their draw doesn't worry me too much. But thank you for the suggestion.
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I have the OME with Fleurys front 1" spacer to level it out, and I love it. Much better than the stock spring rate for what I do, yet still incredibly comfortable on the highway and around town.
See this thread for more info on what people run:
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Thank you! That's a great setup, they really are perfect for unloading etc. I have the ability to put the key in ON, transmission in reverse without the motor running, and light up everything I may need to see when taking out stoves, tents, etc.Nice, super-clean OEM-looking install. Kudos to you.
I love those Blitz-Pro 6" light bars. I've got 4 of them installed as my reverse lights. 2 in the bumper (in approx the same place as yours) and 2 on the roof. All 4 BlitzPro lights are on their own separate relay, so I can operate them independently of the stock reverse lamps. They are very bright, and work great as area lighting if you need to set up a campsite in the dark.
Unfortunately, I looked them up when I was writing this up to find a link, and they seem to have disappeared off the market.
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Ahh, nice mod! Looks like I'll have to play with this in the future! Thanks man, looks great!
Sure thing bud!
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I'm a big fan of clean looks on my rig, yet needed to add some additional lighting when reversing due to my limo tint, and general lack of stock output. What better way than putting some 6" LEDs into the factory rear bumper reflector location? I thought. After several months with the bumper off, finding time here and there to work on the thing, finish the body work, and paint it, this is the result:
These are some 6" LED Blitzpro lights, which I was able to cram into the slots, after much fiddling and bondo work. Essentially what you want to do is: take off the rear bumper, cut out the bottom part of the "reflector cup" only leaving the top of the plastic tab. You may want to do this another way, if you want more room, as it's pretty tight otherwise. After, you simply mount up the lights and go, assuming you hadn't cracked the paint as I did, or discover a rear collision as I did. If you are in the same boat as I was, I highly suggest mounting the lights, and having a local body shop do the rest of the painting and bondo work to save you the hassle. Looking back, I certainly wish I did. After mounting, I wired the lights into my passenger side reverse lamp (converted already to LED pre mod, so the total draw of the system is less than one incandescent bulb), run the wire through the plug in the load floor, and away you go.
It might just look cool in the desert.
Or light up the whole dang thing.
These lights are very bright, and have now given me ample vision when backing into a camping spot, to the point of being able to see clearly through my tint, and see the whole background in my rearview mirrors. So I would call this mod a success. None of my work is perfect, but for a 12 year old vehicle, it doesn't look bad at all, and it performs better than expected. I would suggest this to anyone, hopefully taking their own twist on it, and would alternately mount one lamp on the space between the rear bumper and the top of the trailer hitch.
Hope this provided some inspiration.
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Looks good, I'll add my "super stock" bumper to my list of favorite mods.
Stuck in some 6" blitzpro LEDs for reversing. -
Sounds like they don't? Maybe try for the FM unit, or same as Ferrari said
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Frontier I feel like is more for the Xterra than the pathfinder. In terms of cross compatible parts.
-Kyle
Correct, the Frontier is directly related to the Xterra and has no cross-compatible parts with R50s that I know of, other than general VG motors etc. If you're looking into fitting 35s, typically an SFD is the only answer. Fender upgrades on these amount to how much you're willing to cut, as there are really no fiberglass options.
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You can make it a little more efficient. Look into an exhaust. Karmann has a nice sounding mangnaflow? (I can't remember the brand) and I know the VG motors response very well to a cat back exhaust. Well have to ask him if he saw any MPG improvements from his exhaust.
You can replace the O2's if they are original (just fronts, rears don't affect milage) it might help.
And yeah, having drive train fluids served can marginally help too. Checking universal joints along the drive shaft can also be a worth while venture, if they are worn due to corrosion, for example, that can cause excessive strain on the engine.
But by far the best mpg mod for the pathfinder is manual front hubs. You lose the option of 4WD on the move. But I've had mine for a few years with no issues. I had about a 2 mpg increase before the exhaust issues.
So if I were you, I'd look into manual hubs, they definitely help.
-Kyle
Thank you
And correct, I have an 18" magnaflow with the resonator removed. More or less a cat-back system. I would say if you want to pick up mileage, do the above maintenance, check your air filter or step to a cold air intake, and most importantly switch to manual locking hubs. These take wear off of your front end, increase MPG, and increase in my mind responsiveness. Plus they just look proper. Otherwise your mileage sounds normal, I just got 17.5 mpg this weekend with 450 miles of highway driving and 50 of off roading, loaded with gear. -
Go on autoanything.com, I bought my set of intro-tech hex mats from them and they've been excellent. Full coverage of the rear footwells, and the small indentations catch any liquid. Check them out
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I have the 3.5, see my sig link for my fuelly profile. That mileage is totally normal, and I only run 91 octane.
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As mentioned, check for an exhaust leak.
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Superbrightleds.com. Literally every interior light I have is now LED thanks to them and a Craigslist source.
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As said the voltage difference causes this. I love LEDs but haven't swapped my blinkers to them until they have a resistor built in, and DOT legal ambers.
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Pretty cool, knew it would happen eventually with GPS mapping etc.
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Lots of cool stories on here guys, keep it up!
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With a volt meter you have no power testing the actual sockets? Time to test the wires to the socket, if those have power then the socket is bad. If no power is to the wires, then trace those back and check for power.
Now starts the fun of chasing wires.
Correct, that was what I was afraid of...
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6 ply should be fine, i run about 35 psi in mine and have a really comfortable ride. No need for 10 unless you're going on sharp rocks a lot, or drive a 3/4 ton truck.
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Odd, but I have my fair share of experience with clueless dealers, talk to Rob as I can assure he isn't clueless.
Hope you can track down the right filter, otherwise, I've had great luck with Mobil 1 EP filters. -
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I saw in your post that you said you had checked fuses, but I figured that you may not have checked ALL of them, and only checked the fuse behind the coin tray.
And you may have not checked the condition or terminals on the POWER SOCKET relays under the hood. Is that what you have already done? How did you confirm the fuses and relays were in perfect condition? Did you use a continuity tester? Sometimes fuses may LOOK ok, but may have an undetectable break in them that causes them to perform intermittently when a current passes through them. If you have operated any devices plugged into those sockets at very close to their rated current, the fuse may not blow, the fuse metal could melt/deform and become unreliable.
Check for power using a multimeter or a continuity tester at the fuse terminals and at the relays when key is in ACC or ON.
I replaced the fuses in question (power socket, rear window, and lighter) both in the engine bay and the sin drawer, with no results.
Just did the continuity test, and nothing registered. Any other ideas? I'm pretty dang confused.
bumper cut how's it look?
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
TAG does not have the best reviews. You're much better off making your own bumper.