Karmann
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Posts posted by Karmann
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They are not DOT approved, so I would suggest finding a legal alternative to avoid problems. Lights like that can have hot spots, and may blind other drivers, even if installed properly, due to the lack of a projector assembly. If even the seller says "off road use only" I would proceed with caution. If they're for auxiliary lights however, they shouldn't be an issue so long as you don't use them on the street.
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Sad thing is I already had the LCAs replaced with new bushings. So the hunting continues I guess.
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I actually bought some but have yet to install, I replaced the front sway bar bushings, so hopefully the steering rack ones will get rid of the rest. How bad of a job was it to replace? Seems pretty straightforward.
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I had the front tires rebalanced, turns out the wheel weights fell off and/or were never installed in the first place. Fixed 95% of the wobbles. I ordered some new sway bar end links up front, rear trailing arm, and rear panhard bar link. Hopefully that smooths out the rest.
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Next to the A
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Front swaybar removal for me was a 30 minute job in my driveway without a lift. I put it back on to replace some bushings, but took it completely off to inspect it etc.
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That's a cool option to have, I have the same overhead console as that, but the simple manual mirror in mine.
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When you replace one suspension component at a time until you have a new truck.
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Andy, I have stock wheels, same as the ones you saw. The six spoke alloy SE wheels. Considering I haven't been ramming anything with much force, just sandy two-tracks and washboards, I don't think I'd have bent a rim. I've had no blowouts either. I'm thinking it's suspension related?
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Thanks for all the help so far! Definitely some things I need to look into. My struts are probably getting closer to death, but they're certainly not blown out or anything. When I replaced my wheel bearings, I did the inners and outers, and I do have manual hubs up front and run them unlocked 100% of the time on the street (No snowy weather in my part of SoCal).
The shake is basically a consistent moving of the wheel back and forth about 1/2" once going above 45. It continues on until 75 or so where it tapers off, or there's enough other vibration that I don't notice. If I'm on a perfectly smooth street, and doing 50, it's very noticeable that the steering wheel is oscillating back and forth, and you absolutely feel it when you drive it. It shakes the whole front end, and I can even notice it in the passenger seat a little bit.
I'm having one of the tires rebalanced tomorrow, because I noticed there was a wheel weight missing when compared to the others. Hopefully this helps the problem, but for a few reasons, I get the feeling it won't.
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Literally just had the wheels balanced, and got an alignment three days ago.
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I just bought some beautiful new Cooper AT3s for my Pathfinder, and as some may recall I was struggling with wobbling on the last set of tires. Well, the problem has persisted at 45-55, and we can also eliminate wheel bearings, front lower control arms, rear upper trailing arms, and sway bar bushings because I've already replaced those. So any ideas?
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Awesome its good to hear a reply from another ca pathy owner and that you did delete the resonator. I have seen your video a few times. Do you think that if I replace the rear two cats with the magnaflow ones will it still pass smog with the magnaflow muffler also?
Yes I would think it should pass, so long as you use their CA specific cats. I believe people use them quite a bit, and have no issue passing. I'd ask a reputable performance exhaust shop for more information, or contact magnaflow directly.
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I believe if you're looking to up the ante with your cats that Magnaflow makes some high-flow CA units. Otherwise what worked for me was an 18" magnaflow replacing the factory muffler, and resonator delete. Considering I like to hear my passengers, music and other things, but appreciate a little rumble, it's the perfect balance. I'm in CA as well, and it's 100% smog legal. I'm not sure on the mpg gain, but maybe a half to one at best? I'm not sure, I mainly did it for nicer sound and a little better clearance.
Here's a video. (Pre several mods I've done, but mechanically the same)
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In theory high elevation air has less oxygen, and therefore creates less power in the motor. But as was mentioned, the ECU already knows this and can tune the majority of it out with different fuel parameters. So I don't think mine sees noticeable "altitude sickness" for this reason. For me, even with the VQ, you notice weight if you have a lot of gear going up a long grade, maybe that's what you're noticing. Over the summer, consistently sitting at 7k or above in Northern Arizona and New Mexico, I noticed no power loss when going up hills, and I usually reside at 30' of elevation on the coast.
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2002 SE, no passenger side cylinder.
CNAM, regarding your keyless, I've seen a lot of auto parts stores now carrying fobs which when coded should work. Otherwise the dealer should be able to help.
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Do you need DRLs? I imagine there's a mod you can do to have your fogs running when the vehicle's on, lots of Xterra guys do a version of this. At worst you could always pop in some of those Phillips DRLs for a very current (but potentially rice) look.
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Tight lock, referring to the turn radius, but the tighter the wheels are turned increases the positive camber. i.e top of tyre is laying out a bit.
I have my alignment set at 0 deg, at full lock though, it probably hits 4 deg positive, you can hear the tyres clawing at the road
Oh, that makes a lot more sense! Mine definitely angles out as well, that's a normal thing for pathys.
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There are some excellent articles on Expedition Portal regarding tall and skinny tires, but the jist is that they yield a larger footprint when you air down. I have ~30.5 x 9.5" on my pathfinder, and have not found an effect on mileage. They are actually lighter than the tires they replaced, yet are 1.5" taller, meaning I got a .75" lift, and no mileage penalty. The majority of mileage issues are related to weight, and ride quality issues are related to tire design, not size (unless you're going low profile). Typically however, a higher aspect ratio tire (taller overall with a larger sidewall) will ride smoother over rough surfaces than its lower aspect ratio equivalent. Taller tires will affect your speedometer readout, as well as odometer, among other distance-based calculations your car will do, but only by the percentage larger than the stock tire you're running. My speedo is 3% off for instance, because I installed a 3% larger tire, meaning the indicated speed is actually 3% less than actual speed. With my 4.63 stock rear end and these size tires, doing 80 mph yields about 2.9k, anything lower and the mileage is tolerable.
I would say go tall and skinny because they strike a nice balance between ride quality of the taller tires, and better fuel economy and fitment of a skinny tire, plus when wheeling they can "cut" their way to the bottom of many surfaces quicker, yielding better performance on FS roads, thin mud, rock, and others. As long as you don't go for giant wide meats on heavy rims, you won't be sorry.
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Those really are some awesome rims, but there better be a trail on the other side of that river...
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BFGoodrich AT's (which I run) are meant to be run at around 44psi for normal driving but with the light weight of the pathy I run about 35psi, they wear really good, the only "feathering" I'm pretty sure comes from the tight lock the pathy offers. For longer trips I would definitely boost to 40psi
I have Toyo AT-IIs, don't even bring up treadwear
As much as they wobble the tread on them should last until the next millenium. 45k on them and still has tons of tread. Anyway, what exactly is "tight lock?" -
^I was just going to mention tire pressure.
I typically run between the factory recommended 30 psi and 35 depending on the conditions or if I try to eek out some fuel mileage. I know over or under inflation can cause issues with tire wear. -
I've rotated extremely regularly, always keep it aligned, and have replaced several suspension components, yet still experience similar feathering. So if you find out something that fixes this, let us know.
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Smoky Mountains NP
LED Headlights?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
They are not DOT approved, so I would suggest finding a legal alternative to avoid problems. Lights like that can have hot spots, and may blind other drivers, even if installed properly, due to the lack of a projector assembly. If even the seller says "off road use only" I would proceed with caution. If they're for auxiliary lights however, they shouldn't be an issue so long as you don't use them on the street.