patqx4
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Posts posted by patqx4
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Well the new tires don't rub, so I'm going to shelf the idea until the spring.
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Definitely, there are good eBay merchants in Ontario, but I've also gotten parts from California dirt cheap, even after shipping.
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That is one great looking truck! Makes me wish I had a wd21 too
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Much thanks to cnam and cdn_s4 for the pictures.... I will get the tires on first then see where I'm at. Cdn, where did you get the rubber fender flare material? (Also what's your first name so I can stop calling you cdn_s4)
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Jyeager, do you still have your stock bumper on? Did you just ditch the plastic wheel well liners? I'd like to see a pic of your setup if you have one.
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I have 1.5" wheel spacers, strut perch will not be an issue. I was referring to strut spacers. I ran 1" ones and had camber and CV issues, rather not go that route again.
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So I'm getting 5 new 32" BFG KM tires, my 31's barely clear as is, I don't want to run spacers and can't afford to SFD. I'm seriously thinking about cutting the fenders and folding a lip inward right to where the plastic flares meet the fender. The front bumper would need to be cut too, along the same contour.
The problem is once it's done if it looks stupid, there's no going back.
Is it a terrible idea or should I go for it?
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Wow, any more info on those wheels mark? They are exactly what I'm looking for...
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Wow, she's a beauty man! You must love having that. That hood scoop is not factory is it? Any engine/ performance mods?
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You learn something new every day... Thanks for filling me in! I thought the sole purpose was to center the axle laterally.I respect your opinion, but wanted to offer a counter point. Just adjusting the PHB length when you lift your truck is not a very acceptable solution. If the PHB isn't level, the static ride height doesn't have the axle at the apex of it's arc.
You end up with negative side effects in the rear suspension performance.
It's never a bad thing to have the axle centered under the vehicle at static ride height, but the PHB should be level too. This requires a drop bracket if you've lifted your vehicle.
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They do look nice, too bad I already did a poly swap. That adjustable panhard rod would be so much better than the crappy drop bracket from krf.
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Welcome to the forum, nice pathfinder!
I would love to see pictures of the impala. I absolutely love that generation of them, its one of the cars I frequently look for in the local classifieds. They never come up around here.
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You will not be able to use 4wd in any way with the hubs unlocked. Personally I leave mine locked in January through March, because like you said, deep snowy driveways and stuff to deal with every day. The rest of the year I leave them unlocked unless I find I need them, which is pretty much only off road.
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There's no question, the R50 is more rust prone than average. I'm certain that mine will die of rot before the drivetrain dies. But I live in eastern Canada, so rust is a constant battle.
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50psi seems really high, are you sure that's not the maximum pressure? I think the stock pressure is around 32psi
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Hawairish, I could use a few small trim pieces from a rust free climate, if you are there!
Specifically, the lower outside door window trim pieces. Mine are rusted to hell and look terrible -
I just realized you have a wd21, I hope it's the same! sorry idk why I thought you had an r50.
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OK so I thought I had the jug, but I actually have the one without the additive. I used this stuff in my front diff but the stuff with the additive looked very similar to this iirc (this was 5 years ago now)
So I walked next door to Canadian tire, Their store brand stuff has changed its look now. and they don't have the motomaster lsd stuff anymore! I did find this though, should be good but its expensive as all hell at 25 bucks a litre
I checked their website http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/search-results.html?searchByTerm=true&q=gear+oil
and looks like they have a "posi trac" additive. I think if I were to do it again right now, I would buy this 5L jug and use it in both diffs, and get the posi trac add for the rear diff. Hope that helps
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Yep, I'll take a pic of the jug later tonight when I get home for you.
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I had actually done this method before taking it in, except I just used a tape measure. Either I suck at taking measurements, or this way will never get 100% accuracy.I align mine using strings tied to jack stands laid along the back sidewall on the tire, then tie it to a jackstand in the front "along the sidewall again. "do that on both sides and measure the distance between the sidewall and the string in the front. "rear of the front tire and front of the front tire, "along the sidewall to the string" If it is different on each side, adjust it until both sides are within spec.
I love only being able to adjust toe, as long as your suspension components are good. saves a lot of jack, not going to give anyone 100 bux to undo a lock nut and do half a turn retighten lock nut.
same mind set as i am not paying 600 per side for struts. /shrug havent messed anything up yet doing it that way.
Pat
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That's weird, I found motomaster gear oil with lsd additive at Canadian tire here in Halifax.
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Even though the warns come with new studs, I didn't need them at all. The stock studs were long enough to grab all the threads on the nuts.
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You can also press the "mode" button to just open the vents up and let fresh air in, I do that a lot to minimize fan noise and hear my music better. Works for heat too in the winter.
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Qx4 is not just kinda a pathy, its totally a pathy in all areas that matter! Welcome back the q looks good
Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Action shot from yesterday