Zilverado

WOW!!! That's a good memory you have (or did you search for my previous thread)? Bach then I never did do a cable/terminal swap - just a good cleaning. Even now, the cables themselves are still pretty good, it's the cheap (thin) little copper terminal clamps that are the problem. This time I actually had to cut them off of the battery, so now I'll be replacing them with heavier lead terminals - simple enough. Unfortunately, the body of my ride is getting to the point where more costly (time and money) repairs will be getting "weighed" and the painful question of "is it worth it" will be asked. We've really enjoyed this vehicle, but with over 330,000 km and the body rust, I'm not sure how much longer she'll be in the stable. Hopfully when the time comes, I can find another Pathfinder to take her place... Thanks for the help.

OK - So I am officially an IDIOT!!!! Turns out that the wire actually belonged to the oil pressure sending unit - which I replaced last year with a mechanical one - - AAARRRGGHHHH!!!!!! After removing the oil filter and soaking the starter with engine cleaner to try and find the missing "connector", I finally gave up. I temporarily re-attached the battery cables to try the starter again, and WHALLA - it bumped forward every time I tried. So I guess the combination of cleaning the contacts and de-greasing the starter got everything going again. Never the less - - I'm still an idiot.

Thanks Man, but can you recall where it plugs in (front, back, side...) - since I'm working by "feel" here? I think I'll remove the oil filter to try and see if I can get a better view. It's time for an oil change anyway...

So, I'm having some starter trouble (no starter action), so I started with the corroded battery cables - which was the problem last time - but still no luck. I stuck my hand down to "feel" around the starter connections and discovered a disconnected plastic connector. Now I'm not sure if I disconnected it while feeling around, but I don't think so. It has an orange boot and a single wire. The other end of the wire comes from the harness somewhere near the front of the harness. It's EXTREMLY tight in there, so I can't realy tell what's going on. Does anyone know where this plug goes? The boot was quite oily, so I suspect it's somewhere around or below the oil filter, but I can't access anything under there. I suspect I should remove the oil filter to get a little better access, but I thought I'd ask the question... I have attached a photo to help describe this. Hopefully someone can give me some ideas.

Have you tried having someone turning the steering wheel while you watch the steering components. You should be able to see if there is alot of movement in some of the joints in the system.

Hear's the link to the sticky... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9692

Picking up some kind of basic manual is definitely a good idea. That will at least get you started. Then if things come up, forums like this are an excellent supplement. Overall, the job is quite straight-forward. A set of spring pliers is a handy tool to have. Along with replacing the springs (as Pavelow mentioned), you should take a look at the brake wheel cylinders and axle seals to make sure neither of these are leaking. If there is oily residue around, that means things are leaking and it's simply a matter of time before this becomes an issue. Leaking gear oil (axle seals) and brake fluid (wheel cylinder) will quickly contaminate the brake shoe material and cause the brakes to bind or lock-up quickly, with very little pedal pressure - not a safe situation. And once the shoes are contaminated in this way, they cannot be cleaned and have to be replaced. So if you see anything suspicious in there, this may be the time to address it. Have fun.

Instead of requesting an email, which you will likely not receive, you can check the box at the bottom of the screen when typing your topic that says "Enable email notification of replies". This way, you'll get an email at your specified address, letting tou know people have responded. And I agree with the other guys, even without this feature, it's not that difficult to check back occasionally to see if your question has got attention (clearly yours has...). By keeping all of the replies within the forum setting, the information stays in the public domain where it can benefit the greatest number of people - that's what makes these forums work. As for your question... based on my experience, what you are saying does not make sense to me. I replaced my fuel pump on my '92 a couple of years ago and just last weekend replaced the sending unit. I do not understand how a faulty fuel pump would give you the problems you describe, unless the sending unit is built into the pump. Mine is two entirely separate parts - the fuel pump sits inside the sending unit assembly, but they can easily be replaced individually. Maybe your year of Pathy is different.

As has been said - - likely your steering/bump stops. If you do a search, you'll find more posts about this. I know I've even seen photos included in some (in case you're not sure what these are or look like). Mine actually creaked and groaned at slow speeds backing out of our driveway, so I put a little grease on them and that shut them up.

It may be that the temperature issue is a coincidence, but I have read (and have experienced it myself) that these vehicles are quite sensitive to voltage when trying to start. So start by cleaning the battery terminals WELL, before going to the extent of replacing the starter, since it's a bit of a bear to do - especially on the 4wd. I say this because, earlier this year, I had a similar problem. I suspected corrosion, so I took everything apart and wire brushed it. Still no luck. Battery measured a strong 12.5 volts at the terminals. So I was on the verge of replacing my starter. I tried one more time to boost the vehicle and whalla - - it started no problem every time. I took the terminals apart again and this time used a light sanding drum on my rotary tool to clean them up. Put 'er all back together and haven't had an issue since. So give it a try and see what happens.

That's a good point, I forgot about that. I'll make some calls tomorrow and see what I can find. Thanks for all the advice.

So I'm wondering what to do replacing my cat (it's rattling inside). Do I spend the big money ($300 to $400) and go with an OEM (with flanges) or do I spend under $100 for one I just clamp in. I was also debating just going with a straight pipe, but that would likely cause my O2 sensor to freak out and give me a "Check Engine" light? What have the rest of you done? Thanks in advance.

Ditto!

Thanks Man - gave my Buddy my order today, so I should have the stuff shortly. Just in time for the warm weather to really kick in.

So has anyone here got experience running LPG refrigerants such as Duracool or Red-Tek in their A/C systems? Our '92 has never been recharged and still cools not to bad. But I am thinking of topping it up with Duracool. I am currently running Red-Tek in my '86 Chevy and it works well, just thinking of doing the same in the Pathy. Now before anybody starts with the "if you want your vehicle to go BOOM..." responses, just know that I am aware of the "perceived" risks and have read many articles for and against these products. And despite the risks, I drive around everyday sitting on 35 gallons of highly combustible gasoline as well. So, it comes down to making an informed decision - - and to each his own. Let 'er rip... (so to speak)

Thanks for the suggestions. Good point about the amps - I'll have to look into that. Like you say, maybe someone else will have some additional suggestions. That's what makes this place so great. As for the speaker power, I too would think that a higher volume from the new stereo would likely damage the factory speakers. But again, I'm not into super-loud music, so I think I should be ok.

First off - - Happy Easter and God Bless you all! So, I did some searching on this topic and read some good stuff, but not for my specific questions. I'm finally thinking seriously of installing a new CD/MP3 player in our '92. I'm thinking of either a Pioneer or Sony. I am not a BIG stereo kinda guy, so this will be an "entry level" unit ($100 to $125) - approx. 50W/speaker. I realize there are many opinions on the different manufacturers, and if there are STRONG opinions, feel free to share them, but that's really not my question. My questions are... 1) How do I remove the original head unit? I looked into this a number of years ago, and just managed to get the front trim off. I couldn't get to the HU itself. I was not desparate at the time, so I stopped looking, but now I want to do this? Are there any tricky (hidden) fasteners or clips? 2) How do the new (modern) units install into the stock set-up? Will they simply bolt/screw in? 3) What's the best way to wire this up? Is there a harness with male/female plugs behind the original head unit? If so, I was thinking of just cutting the wires (between the original HU and the plug) and wiring into this - to reuse the original plugs? Or do I get another plug and leave the original HU alone (not sure what I'll do with it)? 4) Lastly... I am planning to use the factory speakers. Like I said, I'm not a BIG stereo guy, so the factory speakers do just fine - at least for now. Can anyone tell me what wattage these speakers are? So, there's all the questions. Any thoughts on this woudl be appreciated - thanks.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Please don't mis-understand - - I do not think my auto hubs suck - - I have just read a number of posts where guys are raving about the advantages of manuals when doing serious 4-wheeling (which I totally get). I am definitely quite satisfied with the overall performance of the 4wd system (incl. hubs) on this vehicle. I think that when I get some time this summer (before next winter for sure) I'll do a complete tear-down and reconditioning of the hubs. I'll see how everything looks in there. Thanks again.

Did a quick search for similar issues, and I know - I know - "Auto hubs suck..." Actually I have had an on-going "issue" with my hubs. They occasionally fail to disengage initially. A simple - disengage T-case, then reverse a short distance - does not always do the deed. This happened again this morning, so I can still hear the front drive turning along. I have never actually taken the time to check which side (if not both) hub is staying locked up. A couple of years ago, I had one hub apart addressing a wheel bearing issue. I repacked everything, and all seemed to be well. Not sure if this is now the hub in question. So my question is - - is this a simple issue of disassembling and servicing the hubs, or should I be looking at replacing some of the internals of the while I'm in there? Now, before everyone starts screaming "Warn manual hubs!!!" (I know how much better they are), I'll be staying with the autos. For the type of driving we do, the autos are much handier. And to tell you the truth, they've been pretty reliable. So, thanks anyway... So any toughts?

WOW! You're right, that's not a trivial little "OOPS". But it's good to see that despite the initial (and possibly some presently remaining) anguish, you are maintaining a positive attitude. Good on ya - - Good luck and have fun.

Good suggestion - that's where I would look. Just because they ordered a full set doesn't mean there all the same - - - What? A parts place mixing up parts???? Anyway, this should be easy enough to measure. A straight-edge across the outside face of the tire (better yet the wheel itself) should allow you to measure the "depth" if the wheel. While the outside should show something, I would suggest removing the front wheels and measuring the inside as well. Let us know what you find.

Assuming the tires are the same size??? Is there a bulge in the side of the tire? Wheel lugs are all tight? I realize these are "duh" kind of quesions, but it seems a little unlikely that the wheel itself would move out. Maybe someone else...

Oh, BTW - thanks for the offer, but since I can get the parts fairly cheaply locally, I'll pass - avoid the shipping costs to Canada. Thanks anyway.

Well, the parts are in the garage ready when I am. Total bill was actually less than originally expected. Seems the parts person I spoke to over the phone must have been looking at the wrong bushing set. So... Links (incl. bushings) 22.55 x 2 = $45.10 Rod to frame bushings = $12.50 Total (taxes in) = $65.09 (CDN) At todays exchange rate that would be around $55.34 (USD). If only all my repairs were this affordable. Thanks again for the help.

Since I need new tires on my '86 Chevy, I'm actually about to replace the BFG All Terrains on our Pathfinder and swap the tires onto the 15"x8" rally wheels on the truck. I love my 31x10.5 BFG's. We have driven for 4 years now (mostly city and highway) and still have at least 12/16" (3/8") of tread left - they originlay start with 16/32" (1/2"). I could run them for many more years on the Pathy, but since my truck needs new tires now too, I thought this was the best of both worlds. And since the truck is not a daily driver, they should last me for years...