leeuniverse

I've already put a new EGR Valve in (which includes the flying saucer top "diverter???"), so didn't I already fix that problem? Not sure what you mean by EGR "Diverter"? Is it another item somewhere? Can you show me a pic?

Hey Lubeman...... Do you know if doing the MCCC way will also clean out the Exhaust Manifold? I was reading elsewhere that someone used Amsoil's foaming engine cleaner and a follow-up gum out through a vacuum port will clean the manifolds and the 02 Sensors to eliminate sludge from the throttle body and Idle Control system to help clean things out for better running? I've had the Intake Manifold cleaned because I had to change the Knock Sensor, but not the other/rest.

UPDATE: See below for the latest! UPDATE 2: RESOLVED! Hey all.... My new pathy had some check engine codes. At first was apparently the EGR valve and Knock Sensor. Replaced both, they cleaned the intake manifold also and I changed the PCV, was still getting an EGR Function code, so replaced the EGR Sensor, and then next I'm replacing the EGR Control Solenoid hoping that will finally get rid of the problem. The service manual seems to say that for the EGR Function error, the EGR Valve or the EGRC Solenoid could be the problem. My next try after the solenoid will be the Vapor/Carbon Canister. What are your all thoughts? I'm worried I'm going to keep going and going and not fix the problem. Anyone had any experience in this? I have to get rid of the Check Engine light because I'm going to likely be moving to a city and I won't be able to pass smog then. I'm poor and unemployed and I'm already spending all I have left trying to get the vehicle reliable. Thoughts?

That looks like a good option as well for those who can set up the fancy hook-up setup, me no money for that yet. That filter is apparently designed specifically for lower pressure fluids, and certainly easier to change. What hook-up setup did you use to connect that filter to? (for those of us who would like to do that in the future) Thanks

Wow... That's amazing it caught so much crap. It really shows you that Car Manufacturers aren't really designing their products to last, because with that kind of buildup, you would think a filter like that would be standard for a Tranny. Well, I think the easiest way for me to go is with a Magnefine...... But, I can't decide yet if I should do it "inline" or do your bypass method. I really can't set up a "fancy" screw on filter bypass, mine or the inline would have to be like your example, down below the radiator etc. where all the hoses and lines are. Update: Well, I've decided I think to just go the "inline" method for now. It's apparently a recommended product, so I shouldn't be worried about it restricting flow. Really have to go the cheap and easy install way now anyway. Thanks for the discussion guys, it's been a good learning process, and I'm sure useful to others.

I know.... I'm simply mentioned the things that have been classified as "defective" before their time, per my model. For example, the O2 sensors "gradually degrade", they don't stop working as they should and give a check engine light like they should. That's a "defect", not simply normal wear and tear. Same for the CV joints. Other models don't become "loose" well before the normal time, it's a defect of design and manufacture. Anyway, I was simply mentioning that there is a bunch of things on my model I have to fix, and which most I see do need to be fixed which have been reported in reports on my vehicle of known defects and issues. That's all. No need for a war here. I do understand what you guys are saying. I'm simply reporting what has been reported as "problems". And low and behold, I have several of them. When something has been long reported as a "common" problem with a product, that doesn't occur with other similar products, that IS NOT "wear and tear". That's a defect.... My opinion.

They among other things are not simply "worn" they are defects that don't wear out the way the items normally should. If you research those particular issues with my model, you would know that they are known "problems" with the particular product/models. That means they were a "crap design", not simply normal wear and tear. It's like the "Tranny Cooler" issue. That's not simply a "worn" tranny cooler, it's a major defect that shouldn't occur if the product is maintained and treated normally. There is only btw 115,000 on the vehicle, no offroading, etc. Further, non-reported/known "official" defects I haven't mentioned, both door locks don't work, one door won't open from the outside, another door won't lock with the door lock, etc. A vehicle so unused as this shouldn't have all these kinds of problems.

Actually that's a wonderful professional looking diagram..... Good job. Makes perfect sense. So that actually works huh? Have you seen that done before? I'm just concerned that the flow would get stuck a bit at the bypass and/or there not be as good a flow going through the cooler, and thus raise oil temp? I guess I would then use the Amsoil setup or whatever type of filter type system I want? All seems like a lot of work. Maybe I should just keep it simple and create a simple "inline" filter like how a gas filter works? That "magnet" idea was kinda cool also.

Hmmm.... So Lubeman..... I was able to get Dowsers bypass filter idea, but I couldn't rap my brain around your bypass version. Is there any videos/instructions etc. on your version?

I know for the obvious reasons why it would be a good idea, but won't adding a filter cause the Tranny Oil PUMP work harder than it was designed to, and thus cause a Transmission Failure anyway? Thus, wouldn't adding a filter actually defeat the ultimate purpose? As it is, there is only a simple "strainer" as a filter in the Tranny. Thus, wouldn't adding a "fine" filter in the system put strain on the pump that would cause it to wear out? Or, is it actually easy & accessible to change the tranny pump or no? Even if it is easy, wouldn't pump failure still cause damage, thus too late anyway? I would love to add a filter for the good reasons we know, but it seems to me doing so might be actually adding to the problem, and it all equals out in the end? Thoughts? BTW, I think I remember reading that one can add an "inline" filter that works as a "magnet" to grab the harmful stuff rather than going through a filter. Is this likely a better way?

Thanks for the reminder.... But when it looked at it, there seemed like there was "at least" an 1 1/2 in the space. But, I'll be sure to do the lower size just in case. Does the PCV hole go to the same spot as if I went through the manifold, or are there some lines/crevices etc. inside the PCV spot that going the manifold way with the foam wouldn't reach? BTW, thanks for telling me the difference between BTU & GVW, I was going nuts trying to figure out which one was around 20,000 GVW or more, because many said BTU only or didn't say anything at all etc. So, it was hard to tell on many which ones had the higher GVW.

Thanks much.... As soon as I get things running properly I'll call and take a run to Reno and Nissan, prepared and hoping no problems.

I was researching and some say to do the MCCC through the PCV port with a 3/8 inch fuel line? Is that actually a better spot than the Intake? Might be because I changed the PCV valve also and there was a bunch of gunk in it? BTW, I noticed that the MCCC smokes the same as Seafoam (white smoke). But, I guess because it's a PEA it's still better? Discovered it looks very easy to put in an external tranny cooler into the 93 Pathy. Just take off the front grill and run the hoses below and the tranny hoses are both at the bottom of the radiator also. Also, anyone recommend that I put a New Radiator in that doesn't have the cooler in it? Like I mentioned above, would it give me more cooling ability for the engine? Only $80 something bucks.

Thanks for the thoughts.... Lubeman. My issue with the Seafoam is that the previous owner prior to last rarely changed the oil apparently. I have TONS of Carbon/Slud in the engine, heads, exhaust pipes etc. With the SeaFoam I was just going to poor it in the engine, and fuel and let it clean, and maybe get the tranny one and do the same. I wasn't going to do the spray or poor in the vacuum, think you're right about the smoke thing. I was just going to spray a standard cleaner into the vacuum whatever. My current issue is that I'm having to change EVERYTHING in the EGR system. Cause I get an ERG Function 32 error code, which looks like was caused by all that carbon in the system. Changed the Valve, the Sensor, and next going to do the EGR Control Solenoid, then maybe the vacuum canister after than if that doesn't remove the check engine light. Any thoughts? I was also thinking about apparently if you take it to the Dealer the dealer can do a high pressure flush of the engine and the manifold and that can really fix things. But, I was thinking about seeing if Seafoam would more or less do the same. Is there another way other than that expensive process of flushing? Thanks.

Right all.... Given everything I had read as well the "ideal" way would be to install a separate cooler as you all have said, but I thought I would ask if anyone had went the other way and just installed a new Radiator. Oki-doki.... I guess I'm just going to have to make a decision. I was looking online and was maybe thinking about replacing the radiator anyway, cause you can get an even cheaper one but without the tranny cooler in it. That might be a good way to go to help the engine run a bit cooler? And then I can still stick on a 20,000gvw+ tranny cooler. Ya, as to Lucas, I've done more research and I'm not going Lucas or Dura-Lube anymore. It looks like the best way to go is to clean out the entire system, fuel, tranny, engine with SeaFoam (have lot's of carbon in everything), and then do an oil change replacing all oils with AmsOil and filter, and then add zMax in all the areas for good metal protection. Although, seems not easy to get AmsOil, so I might have to go with Royal Purple instead (seems Autozone has it), and just change oils a little more often, cause I know it doesn't protect as long and as well as AmsOil. Thanks for the thoughts all, happy to be here.

Hi, happy and not so happy new pathy owner. Tons of stuff to fix on this thing. Between the last owner and myself, already put in $4,000 into it. And maybe another $2,000 to go depending on what I can do myself and all the "door" problems, most of which I didn't know about when buying it. Anyway, I'm aware of the installing a new Transmission Cooler, that the OEM is bugged. I've read all the threads of the forum and on the net on the issue. But I have a question. The warning on this issue says to simply replace the cooler with an aftermarket one. My question is, isn't a New Radiator also an aftermarket item? Couldn't we just stick a new radiator in and that will also solve the problem? I've seen no discussion on this, so it makes me wonder? I ask because it seems about the same price but easier to just stick a new radiator in my 93 Pathy rather than mess with a separate cooler? Then to help keep my Tranny working well I can just use Lucas or whatever, and maybe stick in a simple inline filter? So, my question is, are aftermarket "Radiators" also okay to use, they don't have the defect? Thanks.... p.s. Plan on keeping this thing for a long while, so making it perfect and my baby, and to know everything about it.

If you are concerned about "cold" running with the Tranny or Engine, use "Lucas" or some other appropriate additive that provides a protective coating to the metals making things run more efficiently and less wear and tare cold or hot.

Just an FYI for those who may not know.... It's a good standard policy to go ahead and replace the Water Pump when you change your Timing Belt/Chain on a vehicle. Maintaining both of these are key to keeping a working engine that doesn't blow up on you.

I forget the year range, but for my 93 Pathy there is a known Manufacturer's defect with the Tranny Cooler. It apparently causes clogging of the filter which then prevents parts from getting oil and then full Tranny failure. They specifically say to asap change to an aftermarket cooler to prevent pre-mature tranny failure.

Anyone know if they will replace them even if there is no "major" defect? For example, nothings broken and they seem to still work, and the belts do retract, although they need some help the last half way, got to help them manually a bit to get them to retract in usually. Do you think that would be enough to replace for free? All the manufacture defects on this dang thing I have to spend a couple of thousand to fix (tranny cooler, oxygen sensors, front cv joints, rust prevention, rear bushings, exhaust bolts whatever, etc.), it would be nice to get "something" from the stingy buttheads!