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max

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Everything posted by max

  1. Finally, fixed all problems RPM jumps fixed by replacing bloody TPS (not sure it was required, but just in case ...) and by resetting and learning TPS. Now RPMs is smooth and allows me to drive on low range and 1st gear smoothly without jumps Info for those - who will face this problem:
  2. Will double check everything tomorrow. PCV valve was changed during last engine repair. Before that repair it was eating a lot of oil, but plugs was good. And coolant level is always the same. Will check for visible leaks, because it is some smell like hot/burned oil under hood after driving. Thank you, I'm safe here as I'm on western part of country, and we have problems on the east (on border with russia). But your support means a lot to us these days. Thank you! Btw: recently started http://uatoday.tv, should be reliable source of news.
  3. UPD: I closed that disconnected hose (that is temporary, we will connect it on a weekend). And after I closed it - P1130 went away. Probably I'm not right, but I think - when this hose was open swirl valves was always closed, and now when I closed hose - swirl valves are always open. It also feels like engine have more power now. Actually I'm curious what do you guys think - can driving with swirl valves always closed be a reason of engine eating oil? Like on higher RPM it is not enough air going to cylinders and pressure in cylinders grows too much and it sucks oil in to cylinders ... Asking, because it is eating line 0.5l per 2k km. Will see results later after fixing swirl valves problem, but it is interesting side effect if it is true.
  4. No, didn't check TPS. Read in manual about idle learn, but did not have chance to do this procedure as I could not enter idle learning mode by pressing acceleration pedal, probably because it is not electronic. But today I found something. It is vacuum hose squeezed, broken and disconnected. It goes from swirl control valve solenoid or vacuum tank to somewhere under intake or near it. So, it is not accessible without dissembling intake. Fortunately I have all gaskets for intake and will do this job on the weekend or next week. Will see - if it fix P1130 (should do) and RPM problems.
  5. Replaced solenoid to new one. Still having P1130. Checked +12V - OK. Could not check ECU signal line as manual says that it is grey wire 29-pin on ECU plug, but in my case 29-pin is empty ... magic, so I assume that signal line is OK. Tubes are not clogged (at least those are connected directly to solenoid). So, will continue to check other places where vacuum leak might be. Also it is weird thing happening with RPM when there is no load on engine and I'm pressing accel pedal ... I thought that RPM must grow smoothly as I press accel pedal, but in fact after 1500 RPM it begins to jump to ~1750 and returns back to 1500. After I continue to press pedal it continues to jump but from higher RPM to ~1750 (line from 1600 to ~1750, from 1700 to ~1750), but period of jump increases. After pressing accel pedal more - RPM normalizes but it is happening only like after ~2500 (hard to say exactly). This happening only on hot engine (cold does not have this effect). Also, Idle is almost OK (sometimes little higher that should be, but always constant). Also, it is not very comfortable to drive on low RPM on first gear Probably someone knows - where to look to fix this? I think it might be connected with P1130 as ECU takes signals from throttle pos sensor, engine speed sensors, coolant temp sensor, MAF sensor. Probably one of those sensors telling wrong voltage to ECU and it has influence on P1130 detection and RPM jumps. Or accel pedal should be calibrated (but it is mechanical ...). Would be great to read you ideas - what it might be.
  6. Yes, all gaskets was replaced to new and for rocker covers I had extra new gaskets that was used last time for fix oil leak problem. Probably it leaks as first time gaskets was not aligned or tightened correctly. Not sure about crossover tube, as mechanic did that job without me, but believe that is does not require to remove transmission to access it - as job was done in one day. Only I know for sure that coolant leak happen because it is a aluminium tube that is rigid and does not allow to compensate (by metal flexibility) some small offset between heads that comes after rebuild. Now I had problems with Idle and error P1130 (SWIRL CONTROL VALVE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE). Manual says that one of the possible cause might be Intake system (Intake air leaks). And today we found that broken valve on steering pump that was causing air leaks in intake. So will see if this error will comes again, but Idle is still not stable (sometimes 750, sometime between 800 and 1000). That makes me think that there are another problem, probably with air leaks in intake manifold. So, I;m waiting for ordered gaskets for intake to open it and see what is there.
  7. Found this guy broken. It sits on steering pump and takes air right after MAF and supplies it directly to intake manifold. It's number is 49762-AA000 (VALVE ASMY AIR). Our guess is - that this valve used to add RPMs when steering pressure grows (probably important when turning on idle). Can anybody confirm our assumption? It was sucking air into intake from broken hose connector all the time, so we just closed it, till new part will be delivered.
  8. After 2k km of driving was found oil leaks under rocker covers. Replaced gaskets and its gone. Then found coolant leak from aluminium pipe that connects two cylinder heads (just fixed that). Cleaned injector. After those fixes some MIL light flashes a few times with random misfire error and swirl valve solenoid. Replaced knock sensor (error was shown). Reassembled intake as those error might be related to air leaks. Now everything is fine (want to believe) but Idle speed is always around 900 rpm, but should be 750 (and it was before repairs). So ... what I found in manual, that Idle Learning procedure exists and I would like to try it, but unable to do that. In manual is described how to do it with CONSULT-II and how do Idle Learning without CONSULT-II. I've tried second method but it looks like it does not react on my action at all. Does that mean that my accelerator position sensor is not working or I'm doing something wrong? Does somebody did this procedure successfully (or probably tried to enter diagnostic mode playing with accelerator)? (on 2001 SE with VQ35DE, MT) Or should I check something different to fix Idle problem?
  9. Found local manufacturer of exhaust parts from stainless steel. Looks like it has next configs of muffler: 2 in/1 out, 2 in/2 out, one camera (direct), 3 camera. Probably will chose 2 in/1 out, 3 camera. Other question (how do you guys think): I removed catalytic converters (stuff inside, only box is left), added mechanic lambda separators (only one way to turn off Check Engine light). So, how do you think - will it be OK for engine and lambdas to replace catalytic converters to solid pipes (will drill holes for O2 sensors)?
  10. Agree, we can trust factory setup. Probably will do very similar to what is now.
  11. Thanks. No, unfortunately don't have pictures as was very busy during that time. Only stupid lessons was learned like: - don't believe in internet theories and myths, - never postpone repairing. So, still don't have an answer for one question ... How to know engine condition of used car (like when you want to buy it)? Mine was eating oil from the very begining I bought it but it was runing fine all that time (probably except of some power lost), no noticeable smoke, nothing ... Well. Next thing I want to fix is exhaust. Again - no parts available. So, probably will build new one from similar parts, probably will do bigger diameter, but would like make it sound good. Does anyone here know what is the best configuration for r50 exhaust or how to calculate it in right way?
  12. Just for info. It looks like story almost finished. It took more that 2 month to rebuild engine block: crank shaft and cylinders was grinded, pistons rings and other minor things was replaced. To be completely sure that my engine is 100% ok - need to drive 2k miles in safe mode. Here few pictures: in progress assembling Now it looks like any r50 under hood, but probably need to be cleaned (will do that after installing snorkel ).
  13. Oh, I'm sorry, just opened EM section of service manual ... now it is clear what to choose.
  14. fleurys: there is info about bode size, but part number is related JF or CP. Would be nice to figure out what original Nissan piston grade (1,2,3 or OS=20) are most close to 95.58 bore. So I know Nissan part numbers: A2010-4W100 = A2010-4W110, A2010-4W160 - STD GRADE 1 A2010-4W111, A2010-4W161- STD GRADE 2 A2010-4W112, A2010-4W162- STD GRADE 3 A2010-4W170 = A2010-4W171 - OS=0.20 A2010-4W176 - OS=0.20 It seems like STD GRADE 1 should be a standard bore 95.5 mm. And OS=0.20 probably is over-sized by 0.20 mm, so probably it is 95.7mm. But what bore is STD Grade 2 and 3? ...
  15. fleurys: thank you for all infos. it looks like this engine has iron cylinder sleeves. latest update: measured cylinders and it looks like it is possible to get repair cylinder sleeves, now next question comes up = what pistons are available for that size, needed something to fit near 95.58mm ?
  16. A few days ago VQ35DE was pulled out from my pathfinder and opened to see the reason - why it is eating oil. And it looks like this engine is not in good condition at all. Mechanic says that there is a significant wear of some parts. (sorry for my English, hope you'll understand it) And we are figuring out what can be done with all of that. It looks like cylinder liners need to be replaced and also cylinders itself (with other related stuff) should be replaced too, crankshaft should be grinded (is it good idea to do this on this engine?) and probably some minor parts should be replaced. So, the question is - is it really possible to find parts for this repair (eg: are repair cylinder liners exists for this engine)? Or will it be easier to purchase whole cylinder block (it is expensive like a hell here)? Or is it better to find used Engine (if yes - where to buy it, how to know if used is in better condition then mine, and eg: can I buy VQ35DE from NISSAN MURANO Z50)? Would be very very appreciated for any info and help or experience from you guys! Thanks in advance.
  17. Installed new aftermarket black style head lights and back lights, added warn manual hubs, checked oil separator (installed few month ago, already added few liters of oil) = it is empty and dry, on next week going to service for engine repair (eating oil). bigger image
  18. I have same problem in winter, after crossing rivers, ice on rims causing that. I know - it sounds stupid , but just in case ...
  19. I'm speak russian too
  20. Mine (2001.5 SE) has "LSD fluid only" sticker. Do I have an LSD? Or do any of R50s have LSD in stock?
  21. Thanks for the interesting info and cleaning up difference between manual and auto versions. But you know ... right now my the biggest pain is the oil consumption (5w30: 1 liter per 500km (1 quart per 310 miles), 10w40: 1 liter per 1500km (1 quart per 932 miles)). The question is how big PCV catch can should be in my case? Yes, PCV valve should be replaced, and it is good to install oil catch can and do IM maintenance, but I sounds like those procedures could not help to avoid such big oil consumption. (or I'm just not understanding something again) I think before making final decision about dealing with donor I should find-out what I need to fix front vibration problem, and measure cylinder compression (dry and with oil). Then will see if I have a chance to fix all issues with affordable amount of resources or it is reasonable to buy a donor.
  22. According to service manual you are right. So, it makes possible to swap only engine or both engine and transmission. Oh, yes, but I believe that I know right guys that can do all the stuff, event if mounting points does not match I read some rumors about VQ35DE. Already bought PCV valve, seals and gaskets . Also, some sources said that it sucks oil because some oil channels in valve covers are clogged by dust, and it really helps to replace covers or clean them. Also, I've read that when VQ35DE have problems with clogged catalysts, ceramic dust from catalyst is sucked back with gasses (due to pressure difference) to cylinders and during some time it makes cylinders bigger (I've already cut-out catalysts, and had some fun with second lambdas ). From one side this is good engine that should be repaired only after one million kilometers, and my has only 250 000 km (160 000 miles) and theoretically it should not need repairing right now, so it makes me believe in PCV valve or similar theories, but from other hand - I'm not the first owner and don't know this car history. Also, mechanics says that they can tell something only after opening engine and measuring everything. And my friend fix his engine recently by replacing some parts (rings, etc), and it cost (work + parts) like more than half of a donor. Also, I believe that fixed engine will not run as long as factory one will do. Also, donor should give me a lot of other interesting parts. I'm sorry, my English level and theory knowledge does not allow me to correctly understand this. Can you please just say if this allow to swap manual to automatic or what does it mean for me? Thanks!
  23. Hello! Questions again Here what makes me to ask: I have 2001 SE, 3.5 manual transmission, air conditioner. Have some problems with my car (engine eats oil - 1 liter per 1500 km (~900 miles), transfer have some noise, and others minor things looks like need service). New parts are extremely expensive in our region. R50 wasn't on Europe market and there is almost no chance to find used parts. Used parts from US + shipping are close to new parts at price. Have an idea to find used car in Europe for very good price and buy it for parts. But as I see all R50s that can be found are of 2002 year and on automatic transmission and climate control. So difference is (my, donor): 2001 vs 2002 manual vs automatic conditioner vs climate control Here is a question: Is it possible to swap engine, transmission, etc? To tell the truth I feel like no problem from mechanical point of view but a little worry about electrical components (like ECU, etc). So, what do you think guys?
  24. Thank you all for replies! We did a general inspection and found that u-joints are dead, replaced them. CV joint looks like do not have any play and are ok. After replacing u-joints drive feeling becomes better (don't know how to describe), but vibration still persist at same conditions. Also, I have to replace rubber dust boots on front (covering CV joints (as I understand)). At that stage I;m going ask my mechanic to inspect CV joints more carefully. Also, it (vibration) might be a result of lift in suspension, as some joints have excessive angles, but guys who did a lift told me that all angles look fine (they saw this problem on other cars already). Also, for me it sounds more like looseness or deterioration of some parts as it occurs only at certain speed and load and looks like something resonating. Also, have to mansion that we replaced all rubber bushings and inspected ball joints recently. Think a year ago my 4x4 light was flickering a few times when 4x4 mode was on, but after that this problem gone. But at that moment I didn't have a problem with vibrations. But it is another thing that is weird: I'm unable to turn off 4x4 mode immediately, mean shifter moves to 2HI, but nothing happens (4x4 light still on and it feels like car is still in 4x4 mode), only at 1 try from 10 it works fine, and when driving on higher speed than 5 miles/h it never goes to 2HI.

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