94LE-BlackEmerald

Yes, 4x4. I don't know what full ladder means, but it has all of the welded-on cross-members. I left the bolted on cross-members behind.

Anyone want a free WD21 frame? I'm in Salt Lake City, Utah. I spent a weekend freeing it from a 93 or 94 at a pick-n-pull about 18 months ago on a whim. It was in such great shape that I felt like I had to get it before the truck was crushed. I intended on replacing my rusted out 94 frame, but I'm never going to get around to the project. It's in really good condition, basically no significant rust, except for weld spots and such. I am happy to take some photos. All you have to do to have it is come to my house in Utah. PM me, if interested.

May 25, 1994 202,000+ miles

I had the same problem on my 94. It was the nozzles. Pull them out, give them a soak, use a needle to clean the holes.

You might consider pulling the stock amp, taking it apart and looking for bad solder joints on the boards. My rear speakers went out years ago, so I pulled the amp, touched each connection with a solder iron, added a couple drops of solder here and there, and things have been great for years. The stock radio, on the other hand, is a disaster. I have 4 units. The radio works on two but no lcd, the lcd works on one but the radio is full of static, and the lcd and radio are messed up on the fourth. I'm about to try an aftermarket double din unit but am having trouble fingering out what will fit.

Okay, so I removed the hubs and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. There was lots of grease, although it did seem a bit runny. I've cleaned up the hubs a little and taken a couple of photos (left side in the first photo; right side in the second). Let me know if you see anything unusual. One thing I will note is that when I pulled off the right hub, the washer/ring/brake inside of the hub was loose, so it fell out along with the spring. I don't know if that would prevent the hub from locking. I'll note the hubs appeared to be in the same position, and in the same position as the first photo in the second group of photos in the link provided by adamzan...or the 2WD position. I tried to put the "brakes" together and measure them, but they don't fit together very well and kind of rock back and forth. Maybe I didn't have them lined up just right. Everything is soaking in brake cleaner, so I'll try again after the soak. So after I pulled off the hubs and they looked okay, I started looking at other things. The truck is presently jacked in the front and in 2WD Hi. I spun the front axle and both CV axles spun in the same direction coming out of the front differential. They also spun at the CV joint closest the wheel and spun at the hub (removed). However, I took a closer look at the left CV joint, and I think it is the culprit. The boot is definitely compressed (I wouldn't say twisted, though), but if you look in the photos, it is offset toward the rear of the car and the axle has rubbed against the front shock (note the missing paint). The front shocks were replaced in the last 2k miles, so the rubbing must be recent. LEFT SIDE LEFT SIDE RIGHT SIDE So I've ordered a new CV axle and am cleaning the hubs. While everything is apart, I'm going to replace the lower ball joints, take off my Thorleys and go back to the stock manifolds and pipes. I've never been able to get the collector gaskets to seal; I burn through the copper gaskets in about 3 months. Thanks for the suggestions!

Okay, so I followed the advice glenn and adamzan and here are the results: I have power from the front drive shaft into the front differential. After that, the CV axle on the driver's side spins up to the CV joint and nothing beyond that. On the passenger side, no spinning at all of the CV axle out of the differential. Also, I went against glenn's advice and did this both on the driveway while rolling and having the car jacked up. Even when jacked up, the driver's side wheel does not turn. Thoughts? From adamzan's post, I guess it is the passenger hub, but some clarification would be great. Thanks!

Please help! I have a 94 Pathfinder LE and have lost my 4WD. I am trying to diagnose the problem before I start tearing things apart and replacing stuff that works just fine. Here are the symptoms: For quite some time, I’ve had a noise coming from my front end that I only hear when the car is moving and is related to the speed of the car and not the RPMs of engine. I thought it was the bearings, as it’s kind of a whirring sound and not grinding. I think I can feel it through the gas pedal, too. When it first started, I checked the differential fluid level, and the level was fine. I did not dump the fluid and look for metal shavings. The differential fluid was changed about 10,000 miles ago with Mobil One Synthetic 75W-90. Also, after I started hearing the whirring sound, I sometimes heard my tires letting out a little squeal when turning sharply on the road. I haven’t heard that in a while, but I have the windows up and the heat on since it’s winter. I use reverse each morning as I leave for work and sometimes hear/feel a pop in the suspension (I think front-passenger side) as I start to turn the wheel, but I don’t think I’ve heard that in a while. My lower ball joints have busted boots, though. Also, I noticed oil/grease on both hubs one day, wiped it off, and it hasn’t returned. Recently, I went to use the 4WD, and it was clear I have none. The lever in the car moves into position and I hear the usual plinking sound and 4WD light comes on, but there is clearly no 4WD as I’m sliding all over the snowy roads. One other thing, using the lever to put it into 4WD is way too easy. My experience is that I almost always had to fiddle with the lever in the truck and apply some force before the 4WD engaged. Putting the truck in neutral always made it easier, but still required a couple tries. It now slides into position without any effort or resistance. Based on my searches, I believe it is a shredded front differential (wrong fluid?) or a combination of jammed out-locking hubs and busted CV axles. Any help on diagnosing/fixing this problem would be greatly appreciated, and those in the Salt Lake City will get homebrew!

My hood wouldn't pop up for years until I got the bright idea of putting some PB Blaster on it. I could pull the latch/realease, but the hood wouldn't pop up like it was supposed to. However, it released the mechanism, so I could still go lift the hood. I suggest following k9sar's advice and have someone pull up on the hood while you pull the latch/release in the truck.

I installed my relo kit after the header install. You will have to remove the wheel and go through the fender to get it done. Attaching the hoses and spinning the whole 'thing' on is an option. I put the hoses after spinning on the plate thingy. It's a bit of a pain, but it is no more difficult than installing the headers, especially without a lift.

This will get you started: Single: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Dual: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...r=1#Application And to find out where everyone has placed their relo kit

Nickel Chrome: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Ceramic Coated: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

It sounds like your idler pulley to me. http://nissan4wheelers.com/groupee/forums/...5/m/96210939011

I searched and didn't see anything addressing this, so apologies if it has been covered before. Anyway, I have a leather-wrapped steering wheel on my 94LE Auto, and the leather is starting to crack and split. It looks like crap. I'm wondering what my options are to have it repaired/replaced. I don't really want to put an aftermarket wrap on it, the stealership wants $600+ for a new steering wheel, and I called a couple places in the area and those that will redo it want at least $300. Any suggestions? What year steering wheels will work? (I have cruise control and such on the wheel, too.) These looks pretty close: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=110164056276 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=250106428855 Any thoughts? Thanks!

Black Emerald (pretty uncommon color, I think)

Splinter, The repair manual says the 2WD requires 8 3/8 quarts (7.9L) and the 4WD requires 9 quarts (8.5L). According the flush instructions (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8817), you'll need about 12 quarts to pump empty, fill, pump empty again, and fill. Sorry, I don't know what fluid to use. I posted a nearly identical question minutes before you.

I'm planning on installing a transmission cooler and flushing the fluid. I searched around and didn't see much info on what transmission fluid I should use. I'm sure it's been discussed, but I couldn't find the thread. So anyway, what transmission fluid should I use in my 94 Auto?

I recently had installed the Dynomax Super Turbo and Dynomax Catalytic Converter in your links, along with 2.25" pipe. Mine is a daily driver, and I'll probably have to remove the muffler. I won't know until I fix the leak with my Thorley headers, which I also just installed. Right now, my pathy sounds like a freight train (really embarassing), but my exhaust leak is really bad (http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=15077). It's fine at idle, but it's just plain stupid-loud in gear. YMMV, though. Oh, Autozone lists three exhaust gaskets. The part numbers are MS92271 ($16.99), 037-8002 ($17.99) and MS4014 ($14.99). I used the first (felpro) following the advice of others. I also used the Permatex Ultra Copper RTV silicone (see that other thread I was talking about). The leak out of my passenger side collector tube is so loud that I can't tell whether the headers are leaking, so I'm just going to go back and do the whole passenger side over again. It will happen once the new copper collector gaskets and band clamp for the lap-joint arrive (again, see the thread re: this issue). HTH!

LOL! That would explain the smoke when I first started it up after bolting it together. FWIW, the smoke also promptly sent me to the store to buy a fire extinguisher to put in my car! Just so I have this right: I use the RTV copper/silicone sealer on the headers, something like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku And I use, I guess, I higher temp sealer for the collectors? Can someone suggest a brand, type, etc.? Well, it looks like I'm going to have to strip it all down. Oh well...live and learn

Well, there is definitely a leak in at least one place. Everything is even louder now, like I don't even have a muffler. I'm going to get back under the hood this weekend, listen for leaks, see what has come loose, etc. I suspect I'm going to have to replace the gaskets at the collector tubes. I already have one gasket that looks like 4 pieces of metal sandwiched together. Are those the copper gaskets msavides is talking about? Also, should I use the RTV copper/silicone on the collector gaskets? Also, how clean should the heads be before I bolt up the headers? I spent at least a couple hours on each head alternating between scraping and spraying with brake cleaner, but some places were never really all that smooth. Should I use something that's more abrasive to clean the heads to get them smooth as a baby's butt or will the RTV silicone be enough? Oh, finally, to answer msavides' question, I checked the headers for leaks (tape method) before I had them machined flat but not afterwards. If I pull the headers off, I'll check them again. Thanks again for the help!

So where did I go wrong? I installed the headers and have everything bolted up, and the pathy is still as loud as freight train Everything sounds pretty quiet idling and even when revving the engine, but as soon as the truck is under a load/in gear, it is as loud as before. With windows down, it's pretty loud from either side as I pass cars parked on the side of the road. The passenger side seems a bit louder, though. I'm thinking it may be the slip-on crossover pipe. Thoughts? Install notes: helicoil seemed to work okay, all nuts were torqued to 15 lbs. if I could get the torque wrench on it, headers were machined flat, used felpro gasket for headers, used rtv copper/silicone gasket sealer, thorley gaskets after heads on downtube... A couple of other notes that may be helpful, upon first starting it up after bolting everything up, I had some smoke coming from the EGR tube where it plugs into the header. I'm guessing it was the anti-sieze I put on the nut. I also had some smoke from the passenger side, but I could not pinpoint the location (header vs. downtube). Now I have the smell of burning rubber/plastic, but I guess that's because I have some hoses too close to the headers (non-ceramic). I'm pretty frustrated at this point, so any help would be appreciated. The whole purpose of the header install was to quiet the engine...at least a little!

Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to brave a helicoil. I really want to take my pathy back to them and show them what they did, but it might be more trouble than its worth getting it down to the shop. The shop is a couple miles away, so unless I'm going to go the distance and make them pay for the repairs, I can't justify having it towed down there. FWIW, I stuck a drill bit in the big**s hole, and it's larger than 3/8" but smaller than 7/16". I've ordered an M10-1.5 and a 7/16-14 helicoil kit. I'll have to drill the header if the M10 kit doesn't work because the hole on the header is less than 7/16". I may still have to drill the header since the hole isn't centered. Ugh! Anyway, thanks again for the help. Any other advice, cautions, words-of-wisdom are welcome.

(First time post, long time lurker.) After reading about replacing the manifolds with headers for what seems like forever, I finally took the plunge when it became too embarassing to drive around. I have to say that all the advice and instructions out there on this topic were fantastically helpful. I didn't break a single stud. However, I have one (major?) problem. I had new studs and gasket installed on the pasenger side in August 2004. When I removed the header, I discovered no stud, no nothing in the top, rear-most, passenger side hole. See the photos below. What I need to know is what I should do. Basically, it looks like the repair shop broke a bolt (or just drilled it out.) The new hole is offset, so they did not drill very straight/centered. I can't tell, but it looks like they did not drill as deep as the last hole, so I'm at least hoping they didn't hit the water jacket and patch from there. It also looks like there may be some faint remnants of threads where they put in a larger bolt, and it just ripped out over time. Anyway, is this something I can fix? Should I go back to the repair shop and demand that they pay for the repairs? Basically, what are my options? If you say that this has to go into the shop, then what else should I have fixed? I have an oil leak (rear main seal, I presume), I may be losing a little coolant (but each time I get the oil changed, Jiffy Lube says I need a new cap or something -- I bit once, but not twice), and the old Pathy is generally running like crap (absolutely no power). (FYI, I'm a motivated, but novice wrench.) http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/johnsonpa/closeup.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/joh...pa/distance.jpg http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b379/johnsonpa/medium.jpg