theexbrit

The shock will do you fine, there's not many cheaper shocks that have 10" of travel, more than that I think you'll have to lay out some major coin. Definitely won't be under the missus radar! :laugh: :laugh: I got mine from Amazon, seemed to be a good price.................... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BYNJ7KG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So I installed the 5125 Bilsteins today, holy cow what a difference!!! Smooth ride & the rear end is as tight as a ducks arse in water. A great set of shocks, so glad I went with them. The difference over my old 5100's is just amazing.

So, Bilstein recommend the 5100 series for up to 2" of lift, anything over that they say use 5125 or higher grade shocks. The KYB's would probably work fine for most 2" lifted R50's, I had the 5100 Bilsteins for about 6 years on mine & never had a problem, they are similar in length extended/compressed as the 5125's. My truck sat at 20"'s of shock length just on the ground so I needed at least 6" of travel or more, I have the AC kit rear springs with no spacers. The shock length isn't too big a deal as the sway bar is going to limit the travel anyway but when my rear axle is at full "droop" the sway bar & the shocks are at about 26" of travel & the sway bar is pretty much maxed out. The valve ratio on the 5125's is 225/70 so I should get a great, responsive ride in the rear. As for Kickinwing's question, I don't do any hard core flexing but I'd rather have too much flex available than too little, the KYB shocks would have been topping out too much for me & probably wouldn't last too long, if you can afford the Bilsteins I would go for it, I've never read a bad thing about them yet.

Thanks for the reply, some good info for folks looking for shocks. I took one of my 5100 series shocks off & measured it, the closest I could find is a 5125 series (33-18552), 255/70 valving, 10.17 inches of travel, 15.91" compressed, 25.93" extended, $75 each. They got great reviews & are pretty much the same lengths as my old 5100's. The 5125's go on "upside down", with the boot at the bottom so they will give the truck a different look...................... https://www.amazon.com/Bilstein-33-185552-5100-Shock-Absorber/dp/B00BYNJ7KG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527807925&sr=1-1&keywords=Bilstein+%2833-185552%29+5100+Series+Shock+Absorber

Hey all, haven't been on for a while but I finally swapped my bent old rear axle for straight one & I want to fit ne shocks. I have Bilstein 5100's at the moment but the bushings are all shot & I can't find new bushiings. The shocks came with the AC lift kit from 4x4parts & all I can find say they were a special order for that kit. I bought some bushings from Bilstein but they don't fit so I just figured I'd throw new shocks on. Anyway, my question is what's a decent, fairly cheap ($50 ea or less) shock for the rears with a 2" lift? I know some folks are using KYB 34388 shocks but they have an extended length of 23.14" & my Bilsteins sit at 20" on the ground, so 3.14" of extension ain't gonna work. Unless I'm reading something wrong. Thanks.

Any idea how these would stack up against the AC Heavy Duty rear springs? I've searched everywhere but can't find the lbs rating for them, mine seems to bottom out quite a bit when I have a fair amount of weight & this looks like a great mod

Thanks for the info!! New bushings are less than $100, 2 complete LCA's are close to $500 from nissanpartsdeal. I'll have to see my budget.

Hey bro, thanks for the quick reply! I have a complete shop at my disposal so all the tools will be there but it sounds like a lot of hassle & I'm wondering if the poly is worth it. I don't do any serious wheeling anymore mostly trails & tracks, I'm thinking the original Nissan ones lasted for years so maybe I'll spend the extra coin & get the complete LCA, I think they're about $180 each on nissanparstdeal dot com. I will put poly on the rear trailing arms as these get twisted when they flex (unlike the front which just move up & down) & this tears the @!*%e out of the rubber. I've replaced the bushings twice in 3 years. I have to get her up on a rack as I noticed some slight "clonking" sounds from the front which I'm pretty sure is the LCA. When I checked them last year the bushings looked pretty knackered.

Hi all, I'm looking at putting poly bushings on the front A arm/control arms. It looks like the it will be a PITA to get the old ones off & press the new ones on, has anybody replaced theirs or did you just buy a whole new arm? I know "Justme" replaced his & said it wasn't bad but he had a shop do his so I'd like to haer from someone that has actually done it themselves. I have access to a 20 ton press. Thanks!!

Thanks for the reply. I think it's ok but I'll double check. I did have to move it out of the way to clean the TB, maybe it got kinked.

Hi all. I have a 1996 3.3 R50 that idled fine but was gutless up hills, under load, etc. I decided to do a throttle body clean & removed the hose from the air filter box to the throttle body. I found a fairly large hole in the bottom of the air intake tube just before the throttle body, this was obviously causing the lack of power as it meant the car was running very lean. I replaced the hose & cleaned the throttle body, now the car runs great & has plenty of power but it idles at about 1,400 rpm when warm. I (very carefully) cleaned the MAS, then disconnected the battery & reset the ECU so that it could "re learn" the air mixture, etc, but after nearly 600 miles it still idles high. Any ideas?