hillbillybob

sorry for just seeing this. the pillar is the same color as the dash. what are we waiting on for these now? and when do we need to send a payment and to who?

my 95 pathfinder XE interior is blue, if that helps

the local junkyard here has springs for 10 bucks a piece!!

because its not fixing something thats broke as the garage section suggest. and its not something specific to any peticular year of pathfinder. it was more of a fab idea that could be for any rig. granted its not like a 4 link SAS or a motor swap but its not an average tinkering.

I'd be down for one. i have a tweeter but I doubt its functional so if it has one or not it doesnt matter to me. And I'd be interested in a 3 gauge, you can never go wrong with too many gauges.

I may also try and fab up a plate that will slide in on the backside frame so i have the option of having them open or closed depending on what im doing at the time. My idea to use these versus buying vents is I like the price of these and after its camo'ed i bet you would hardly even notice they were there. and looking at the picture its kinda decieving because its sitting on the louvers. its only going to stick up maybe 1/8th in. and i may also use a machine screw if i dont like the way the rivets look.

I've used expanding spray insulation, I would recommend a rust converter like POR 15 to stop it from spreading and use the foam, let it set and use enough it comes out the hole. Use a hack saw blade to cut off the excess and that will give filler something to go against, I don't know how big of hole your tryin to fill but that will work for looks but won't be that strong. If you are looking for strength out of filler I would guess it needs to be 1/4 in. And that's just guessing from playing with it after it hardens

I never thought of the weather aspect. Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. In looking at it, I'd probably try to mount them with the back edge in line with the washer fluid nozzle and centered between the edge of the hood and the hood line. The drivers side all I see for the weather to get is the brake booster. On the passenger side I see the cruise control, wiper motor, and all the relays and electronics mounted on the fender well. Being bored at work on breaks and having access to it, I can brake up a nice easily removable pan out of .050 to cover everything. Funny enough they are covers for ventilation fans in a hard side full sized fold out container used by the US military as kitchens, living quarters, and CSI labs.

I saw these 2 vents in the scrap bin at work today cause someone had messed up the holes so "they couldn't use them on a finished product". we use some stainless ones and some aluminum and these happen to be aluminum so im going to TIG up the messed up holes and mount them somewhere on the hood. they are approx. 9in.x9in. my question is where should i mount them? front as "intake grates" or towards the rear of the hood for an "exhaust grate" a friend has some similar on a crawler jeep on the rear of the hood for the reasons of moving so slow they would perform better to allow the hot air to escape out the back of the hood. Im leaning towards the rear cause thats logical to me. In your guy's opinion should they be towards the front, rear, or left off? And when I install them, I would cut out the hood and make a frame as backer and rivet them in place. and in the spring/summer the flat black is going away to be repainted realistic camo ( my brother in law has done his truck couple other rigs and hundreds of guns, and actually has a huge wait list for stuff to get painted). Thanks for your input

in my experience with my old fords if i had the hubs locked and the transfer case in 2wd i could do much over 35 because the slip yoke in the driveline was wore out cause the driveline to do this ^ causing it to be way out of balance. if i put it in 4wd the vibrations were not nearly as bad as before but still noticable. with the hubs unlocked and it in 2 wd the front driveline didnt turn therefore not causing any vibrations. do pathfinders have a slip yoke in the front driveline? i would assume they dont cause of the hard mounted front axle but its a possibility they do

that makes more sense. but i guess im also comparing to guys with chevy pickups that crank the torsion bars and say they ride like hell, thats not from more load on the spring having to lift the vehicle farther up? in that case i would assume the stiff ride comes from the geometry being off with the A-arms now angled down and not level like they were designed to run?

the way I understood the difference from cranking to re-indexing is that cranking will add ride height but also increase the spring rate resulting in a stiffer ride. re-indexing will increase the ride height by repositioning where the torsion bar begins to resist the load put on by the lower control arm. so that in theory i can retain a closer to stock spring rate (and ride) with the additional height i want. thats the way it was explained to me by a guy who did the opposite and lowered the front end of something (dont remember what vehicle) while he was road racing. It sounds like a good theory but does it actually work that way?

this is the flex i was taking about the tire is totally stuffed up in there!!! Im not terribly happy with the way the front end is with the torsion bars cranked, i have approx an inch of down travel before it hits the bumpstops up front so my idea is to source some low profile front bumpstops and then re-index the torsion bars 2 splines so that i will have the added ride height with a little less spring rate cause just cranked they seem way too stiff and have hardly any give. sorry about the picture quality, it was taken from a phone and then sent to me, sent to email, and then uploaded to photobucket.

Ive done the Jeep coil lift and cranked the torsion bars (soon to get back under it and re-index instead of crank) and at full flex my tire (235/75/15) that is stuffed in the fender well to the point i cant even get my fingers between the tire and the center of the fender well and not just the edge. i am kinda thinking about doing a body lift down the road but for now im looking to get a set of 31x10.5x15 goodyear wrangler authority from Wally World cause they are pretty cheap and from reviews they last a long time on a rig this size. Has anyone made extended bump stops to keep the tire from hitting the inside of the fender well? i could imagine it would rub pretty hardcore with the guys running 33's or is it not an issue because of the body lift?

if they ask where i was driving when it broke my answer is going to be a road. it might not be much of a road..more like a 4 wheeler trail haha. but if they dont want to replace it ill go to the next autozone, there are like 3-4 in the area. and your right they arent going to want to warranty it very bad, but with some persuasion they should do it if I ever need to.

I got it taken care of yesterday and went in with little issue. I had to pull it all back apart cause i put that bronze looking washer on backwards so the snap ring didnt want to go on. the axle was $57 and the core charge was $100 which isnt a big deal cause i drive past it on the way to work. it says it has a limited lifetime warranty so if i do break it again, I SHOULD get a new one free of charge. they say they dont cover off roading but whos to say when and where i broke it at....

The diff isn't centered correct, but if the passenger side tube is longer so the drive flanges are the same distance from hub so the axles are the sane length

Ive got a broken right front cv axle and I checked around and autozone had the best price with a lifetime warranty but when i went to order it the person helping me said they were the same side to side. I also looked at the napa website and they have different listings and part numbers for left and right sides. so i havent gone to pay for or pick up the axle yet but i wanted to make sure they were the same before i started in on this project. i heard we are supposed to finally get some snow so it about time to get it fixed before i need it.

I got my pathy at a towing company auction because the guy who owned it before me couldn't afford to get it out of impound after getting a dui, anything wrong with it doesn't really surprise me. Haha

The rear shoes were prolly 35% and the front were prolly 50%. I haven't had the drums off since October and don't really remember a whole lot about them (the youngtimers is makin my memory terrible). Do they self adjust with the use of the e-brake or going in reverse and stopping?

perfect thanks for the info. i had looked at the fluid when it had come on and didnt think too much of it being 1/4 in above the min line but it was enough to trip the low fluid sensor, i put a little bit in and the lights went off! im still going to thoroughly inspect the brakes again so see if its leaking anywhere but its probably just from them getting worn. when its not so cold out I'll service them and throw some new pads/shoes on. i just dont enjoying working when its 10 dergrees outside!!!!

ok! Thanks I wasnt sure how the pathfinders did the low brake fluid sensor on the vehicles im familiar with only the brake light comes on with low fluid. haha I'll have to drag the girlfriend out to the garage to help bleed the brakes and just replace the fluid.

the CEL was on constantly when i got it once i reset it, it hasnt come back on but was replaced by the ABS and the brake light coming on and off. and the lights turning on and off while turning was refering to the abs and brake light. every time they come on, the brake light comes on first and half a second later the ABS light comes on. never one without the other. and when they turn off both go out at the exact same time.

This has happened since i got it. this is the chain of events that has happened and this was before i knew about the forum. I got my pathy with the check engine light on. 2 days later i drove it halfway across the state to use as a hunting rig in elk camp. and during the day one of the times i un-did the battery to reset the computer and after that the check engine light was off but the ABS and brake light were on. and while driving i discovered that if I made a right hand turn the lights would shut off and if i kept driving straight the lights wouldn't come back on until i made any sort of a left hand adjustment or turn. it did this for approx a month until after an afternoon of easy off-roading that the lights were off and did not come back on. and after 2 months of everything going fine and no check engine light or ABS and brake light, i go to leave work and the ABS and brake light are on and will not go off no matter which way i turn. in elk camp i also discovered a loose wheel bearing and tighten it and havent had a problem since. ( been meaning to repack but havent got around to it yet) working on other vehicles i know some have the ABS tone ring mounted to the front cv axles. could it be something shifting depending on which way it was turning? could the loose wheel bearing tore up something?