hillbillybob

Manual hubs for sure my friend has a Toyota pickup with a welded front ifs and when wheeling leaves the passenger side engaged for 3 wheel drive and when he needs the extra traction locks the drivers side, I'm trying to locate a set of manual hubs that don't cost a small fortune so I can do the same thing.

I feel a little childish when I say pathy. Although I'm not sure why because my turquoise/green highboy got name the booger by my friends...

Ever since I've had my pathy only the very bottom line of the rear defroster has worked. I finally got tired on not being able to see out the back and looked at it a little closer and I don't see any visible cuts, rub marks, or burnt out spots in the rest of the lines, I know its getting power because the one works but I don't understand why the rest don't work, anyone have burnt out/ lines that don't work? Can I check to see if its getting proper power? Check voltage?

sorry for just seeing this. the pillar is the same color as the dash. what are we waiting on for these now? and when do we need to send a payment and to who?

It's not man purse, its a satchel.. Indiana Jones carried one. Haha that's what came to mind.

My girlfriend says that I'm crazy about flashlights. There is 2 in the pathfinder, I stashed one in her car, and couple in the toolbox. At one point I collected all of them to check batteries and I had 16.

leatherman, keys, change, lighter (even though i dont smoke) wallet that generally has no money haha. I started carrying a lighter and knife even when i was in high school and didnt get in trouble cause it was a little hick town and i had a couple teachers ask to borrow my kife haha. my theory on that was somewhere, someday im going to wish I had a knife or lighter and always having both with me made sure i didnt have to wish. and for a while i also carried a 1911 .45 but now that generally stays in the pathfinder.

my 95 pathfinder XE interior is blue, if that helps

the local junkyard here has springs for 10 bucks a piece!!

because its not fixing something thats broke as the garage section suggest. and its not something specific to any peticular year of pathfinder. it was more of a fab idea that could be for any rig. granted its not like a 4 link SAS or a motor swap but its not an average tinkering.

one of my favorite snacks is water chestnuts wrapped in half a piece of bacon, skewered with a toothpick to hold it in place, glazed with your favorite bbq sauce (longhorn bbq sauce is my locally made favorite) and then baked. Its making my mouth water even thinkin about it!!

I'd be down for one. i have a tweeter but I doubt its functional so if it has one or not it doesnt matter to me. And I'd be interested in a 3 gauge, you can never go wrong with too many gauges.

I may also try and fab up a plate that will slide in on the backside frame so i have the option of having them open or closed depending on what im doing at the time. My idea to use these versus buying vents is I like the price of these and after its camo'ed i bet you would hardly even notice they were there. and looking at the picture its kinda decieving because its sitting on the louvers. its only going to stick up maybe 1/8th in. and i may also use a machine screw if i dont like the way the rivets look.

I've used expanding spray insulation, I would recommend a rust converter like POR 15 to stop it from spreading and use the foam, let it set and use enough it comes out the hole. Use a hack saw blade to cut off the excess and that will give filler something to go against, I don't know how big of hole your tryin to fill but that will work for looks but won't be that strong. If you are looking for strength out of filler I would guess it needs to be 1/4 in. And that's just guessing from playing with it after it hardens

I never thought of the weather aspect. Thanks! I'll keep that in mind. In looking at it, I'd probably try to mount them with the back edge in line with the washer fluid nozzle and centered between the edge of the hood and the hood line. The drivers side all I see for the weather to get is the brake booster. On the passenger side I see the cruise control, wiper motor, and all the relays and electronics mounted on the fender well. Being bored at work on breaks and having access to it, I can brake up a nice easily removable pan out of .050 to cover everything. Funny enough they are covers for ventilation fans in a hard side full sized fold out container used by the US military as kitchens, living quarters, and CSI labs.

I saw these 2 vents in the scrap bin at work today cause someone had messed up the holes so "they couldn't use them on a finished product". we use some stainless ones and some aluminum and these happen to be aluminum so im going to TIG up the messed up holes and mount them somewhere on the hood. they are approx. 9in.x9in. my question is where should i mount them? front as "intake grates" or towards the rear of the hood for an "exhaust grate" a friend has some similar on a crawler jeep on the rear of the hood for the reasons of moving so slow they would perform better to allow the hot air to escape out the back of the hood. Im leaning towards the rear cause thats logical to me. In your guy's opinion should they be towards the front, rear, or left off? And when I install them, I would cut out the hood and make a frame as backer and rivet them in place. and in the spring/summer the flat black is going away to be repainted realistic camo ( my brother in law has done his truck couple other rigs and hundreds of guns, and actually has a huge wait list for stuff to get painted). Thanks for your input

1995 XE 4x4 with LSD, power everything and 189K for $400 and it runs and drives great!

in my experience with my old fords if i had the hubs locked and the transfer case in 2wd i could do much over 35 because the slip yoke in the driveline was wore out cause the driveline to do this ^ causing it to be way out of balance. if i put it in 4wd the vibrations were not nearly as bad as before but still noticable. with the hubs unlocked and it in 2 wd the front driveline didnt turn therefore not causing any vibrations. do pathfinders have a slip yoke in the front driveline? i would assume they dont cause of the hard mounted front axle but its a possibility they do

that makes more sense. but i guess im also comparing to guys with chevy pickups that crank the torsion bars and say they ride like hell, thats not from more load on the spring having to lift the vehicle farther up? in that case i would assume the stiff ride comes from the geometry being off with the A-arms now angled down and not level like they were designed to run?

the way I understood the difference from cranking to re-indexing is that cranking will add ride height but also increase the spring rate resulting in a stiffer ride. re-indexing will increase the ride height by repositioning where the torsion bar begins to resist the load put on by the lower control arm. so that in theory i can retain a closer to stock spring rate (and ride) with the additional height i want. thats the way it was explained to me by a guy who did the opposite and lowered the front end of something (dont remember what vehicle) while he was road racing. It sounds like a good theory but does it actually work that way?

this is the flex i was taking about the tire is totally stuffed up in there!!! Im not terribly happy with the way the front end is with the torsion bars cranked, i have approx an inch of down travel before it hits the bumpstops up front so my idea is to source some low profile front bumpstops and then re-index the torsion bars 2 splines so that i will have the added ride height with a little less spring rate cause just cranked they seem way too stiff and have hardly any give. sorry about the picture quality, it was taken from a phone and then sent to me, sent to email, and then uploaded to photobucket.

Ive done the Jeep coil lift and cranked the torsion bars (soon to get back under it and re-index instead of crank) and at full flex my tire (235/75/15) that is stuffed in the fender well to the point i cant even get my fingers between the tire and the center of the fender well and not just the edge. i am kinda thinking about doing a body lift down the road but for now im looking to get a set of 31x10.5x15 goodyear wrangler authority from Wally World cause they are pretty cheap and from reviews they last a long time on a rig this size. Has anyone made extended bump stops to keep the tire from hitting the inside of the fender well? i could imagine it would rub pretty hardcore with the guys running 33's or is it not an issue because of the body lift?

if they ask where i was driving when it broke my answer is going to be a road. it might not be much of a road..more like a 4 wheeler trail haha. but if they dont want to replace it ill go to the next autozone, there are like 3-4 in the area. and your right they arent going to want to warranty it very bad, but with some persuasion they should do it if I ever need to.