1994SEV6
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Posts posted by 1994SEV6
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Also what's up with the smooth hood? Did a certain year hardbody come with no hood vents?
James
Hardbody hood with vents?
wut?
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after alot of work:
Wow. that thing is amazingly beautiful. My uncle has a 1979 280zx. I need to snag that from him one of these days. Needs a bit of work though. It's a nice baby blue. If it's an autotragic, I might just let him keep it under the tarp in his driveway for a while longer though.
Nice tag. "NoslowZ"
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Scion TC
the TC stands for Toyota Camry.
I'm keeping track and taking pictures of my gas mileage for the thread around here. Some of you might be surprised. Currently, I've gone 170 miles and my needle is still on the 1/2 mark.
Not very accurate though I would say, as nothing is linear.
Passed 131k miles today.
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Replaced the Thermostat..... would love to strangle the engineer that put it where it is at!
yeah...I'm gonna need to do that one of these days. Mind giving me some details? What brand did you use? How hard would you say it actually was? How many hours? How many busted knuckles? That type of thing.
Thanks.
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I didn't fix it. I swapped it for a 5speed.
At the time, I was certain it was broken. Since I've done the swap, I've had some doubt that maybe, possibly it could have been saved. Maybe the cooler had a clog, and all I needed to do was get rid of that clog?
Eh. I don't really care anymore because the 5speed is sooooo much fun. I don't even remember driving it with an automatic. Never looked back.
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that's exactly what happened to mine. Minus the shuddering on the highway and stuff like that. Actually, I still had reverse. I had 2nd and 3rd gear only. No matter what gear I put it in, it would start out in 2nd and sluggishly accelerate.
It might have been a fixable problem at one point, but 3 months down the road is a different story. Get a used one out of a wd22 as said above or slap a 5speed in there.
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I'm not even sure I have an EGR system. I was selling some doors to a fellow D21 owner and he asked to take a look at my engine bay to see if he routed his vacuum hoses properly. Then he said he noticed that I didn't have an EGR valve. In my head, I kept thinking he meant PVC and I kept pointing to the PVC valve, but he was pointing to something near the PVC and telling me it was plugged. Then he pointed to my plugged exhaust manifolds and told me he has a hose going from the exhaust to a system near the throttle body and into his intake manifold.
IDK if this means that I don't have one, or I have a different style. It sure gave me something to think about though.
Just for the record, mine's a 1994 D21 and he had a 1993. Both with the v6 and identical in most every other way.
EDIT: I have a feeling I'm going to get trolled by Tungsten because I'm talking about that secondary system or something. The one that he made a post about and some Nissans have it, and some don't.
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Thats why you genrally pull the drive shafts when towing a pathfinder/every other car.
um..no. You don't do this. Why would you get under your vehicle and remove your driveshaft when you are supposed to just put it in neutral?
Yes I get it serviced every 30k. Is there any way to bypass the cooler just to see if that's even the problem before I install a new cooler?
Unfortunately, the recommended service is every 15k miles to keep these particular A/Ts in tip-top shape. Personally, I don't think you did it any damage by giving it a service since most trans aren't serviced at all.
You could remove both the inlet and outlet hoses from the cooler and branch them with a piece of rubber hose.
I'm trying to understand, but I think I'm only getting a faint idea. Are you suggesting to loop the trans lines without routing the fluid to the cooler whatsoever?
I can replace the cooler/radiator or trans cause I have a full parts truck with a bad motor. I just don't think I have the tools/ equipment to drop out a tranny and T case in my driveway.
Hey man, have faith. It's not that hard. I bet you could do it. All you need are a few wrenches, a jack or three, and patience.
Not to be cynical, but this is pretty much what any mechanic in a shop would say. If it's the original trans with 220k miles, then you're one hell of a lucky owner. Definitely do simple tests to see if the trans cooler is clogged by looping the lines, but don't go to AAMCO or anywhere. Just swap it if that's really a plausible option for you.
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Once in awhile it's kinda hard to move the shifter into gear, only into first or third, all other gears seem ok. I have to press the clutch pretty much all the way to the floor to shift into any gear,
I can also pull it out of gear without having to push in the clutch
If it's hard to shift into gear, then it's most likely lack of pressure in your clutch system. Usually, a small lack of pressure only affects 1st gear because you need to fully release the clutch for 1st, but for the other gears you can half-ass it. Since it's 1st and 3rd, it could possibly to the knob on the end of your shifter. It's like a plastic cap type thing that moves the gates. The plastic cap may have chipped away over the years in some spots.
You're supposed to be able to take the shifter out of gear when you aren't on the gas. I suggest becoming educated in rev matching.
So you had to replace the slave cylinder then? Or can you get just the seal?
With the prices of slave cylinders new, don't even bother replacing seals.
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i know lol i was saying your right it looks like the exhaust temp light.
yeah, I know. I'm just messing with you.
That's pretty handy. You can tell if your catalytic converter is going out.
That would have helped my dad. He had a 1983 Mercury Cougar (the crappy slow ones). He got under one day to get rid of a stick or something...his cat was red hot. scary as hell
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It looks just like the exhaust temp light to me.
catalytic converter is part of the exhaust.
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Your post wasn't deleted, you replied to the OP's other thread.
WTF!!! I tried to look for this for 5 minutes and I thought I was going crazy!
Here's my evidence
Your warning light of "round muffler with 3 wiggley lines over it" really stumped me. I did some Google image hunting and found this.
http://www.estima-motoring.co.uk/FAQ%20-%20Dashboard%20Warning%20Lights.htm
I know it's for Toyota, but ignore that. It says exhaust temperature light? Sounds like some extra emissions system not in the US. I guess that's how they do it in New Zealand?
As for your original problem with the starter, it sounds like something is preventing the starter from getting power. This might be the neutral safety switch/ relay that controls this, or some loose/frayed wires
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I could have SWORN I answered this already
The indicator light of the muffler and wiggley lines over it is for when your catalytic converter is overheated. You need to turn the vehicle off and wait for it to cool down.
I definitely posted a picture along with it, but maybe that's why my post got deleted...?
I'm pretty sure that specific indicator is for non-US vehicles, hence you being in New Zealand.
Oh yeah, I also have the dual digital trips. Mine is broken though. I think it's a problem with the cluster itself because I got a replacement and it still doesn't work.
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I still don't understand the original problem...
Why don't you just put a new idler arm on and let it go for another 200,000 miles?
I don't understand the need for all these complicated designs of braces and stronger braces and dual steering boxes.
So what if the original one failed? Replace it, and it WILL break again...in 10-15 years.
For a daily driver, I don't see the point.
Kingman, what you said about "the Grassroots links were breaking they wouldn't be selling any, many people here would have complained about them, and the company would probably be in over their head with lawsuits from people nearly dying when their trucks lose control"
That's not necessarily true. In extremely specialized markets (such as aftermarket parts for WD21s), people don't have much choice. They have Grassroots, Calmini, custom fab, and that's pretty much it. This particular part may not be causing people to die, but if somebody wants/needs that part, and it's their only choice, guess what, it's still gonna be bought no matter how bad it is.
My friend is a mechanic for BB guns at an arena. You wouldn't believe how many fake, cheapo guns from China he fixes. Those things are dangerous, toxic, broken, and ugly out of the box. Screws messing, parts missing, no lube, wires missing, crossed wires, toxic ingredients. AND it's illegal to manufacture and sell them in China, but they still sell them by the thousands. Little kids still buy them in the dozens despite all that.
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Your warning light of "round muffler with 3 wiggley lines over it" really stumped me. I did some Google image hunting and found this.
http://www.estima-motoring.co.uk/FAQ%20-%20Dashboard%20Warning%20Lights.htm
I know it's for Toyota, but ignore that. It says exhaust temperature light? Sounds like some extra emissions system not in the US. I guess that's how they do it in New Zealand?
As for your original problem with the starter, it sounds like something is preventing the starter from getting power. This might be the neutral safety switch/ relay that controls this, or some loose/frayed wires
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These are the two connectors next to the shifter as far as I can tell. They match the symbols on MT-33 Pretty well with the clips. They each have two wires and are not connected at all. Let's number these plugs #1 and #2.
Then I have this third plug. This does NOT plug into the wiring harness. I think there are actually two plugs here. In a picture I will post below, One plug from the trans goes and plugs into these plugs independently. It's trippy, I swear.Let's number these #3 and #4 to be safe.
the top plug in this picture plugs into the harness, which I will show below. The button plug is the one that goes over and plugs into those two other plugs in picture 3. Plugs #5 and #6. #5=top, #6=bottom.
here is where #5 plugs into the main harness that goes to my engine bay
This is the single plug from the wirning harness. Notice FOUR wires only. Also notice my soldered neutral safety switch in the background.So I end up with something like
......................................#2 #1
.............#3 #4....................V V
.....#5 ----\..V .......................V
....#6 ---------| \--(#5 goes here)|----------(to engine bay)---
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let me try to go take a picture right now because I really need this fixed by tomorrow.
So, you just ran your own wire from the switch up to the engine bay?
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did you just reuse the wiring harness that came with your automagic tranns? That harness doesn't have the all the plugs that you need.
oh.
Yeah, I did reuse the harness. Everything is hooked up. There are no unhooked plugs or wires (except those two in the cab). So, considering that, I imagine you mean the proper harness hooks up to all the switches and then it branches off into more than one plug at the end?
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All that in 41,000 miles on a VG? whatttt?
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all the plugs are properly hooked into a harness. This harness ends up as 4 wires and connects into my engine bay. This is the same setup was the auto trans. The only difference is the power wires for the auto trans and anything else.
The neutral safety switch controls reverse? I just soldered the wires together. I thought it just controlled power to the starter
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on the side of my trans I have about 5 plugs.
One towards the back for the speed sensor I assume, one for the 4x4 indicator, one for reverse, one for neutral, and....I think that's it?
I should mention that my speedometer works fine, but I don't have reverse lights or 4x4 indicator. Is this a simple unplugged wire, or something a little more complicated?
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When I removed my auto trans shifter, there were at least two wires connecting to it.
Correct me, but I assume one is for the shift lock, and one is for the reverse lights?
The 1st wire comes up from the front driver's side carpet. I assume this is the shift lock because the shift lock mechanism is right under the fusebox. Am I right?
This 2nd wire comes up from the carpet around the rear of my center console. Would this wire be for the reverse lights?
I need to finally get my reverse lights working. I know the bulbs work, wiring to the lights work, and the P.O. said the transmission lit up the reverse lights fine.
What did I miss doing when swapping from A/T to M/T?
If I'm right, and this wire is for the reverse lights, how the heck do I hook it up?
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the beginning of the crew cab era from the Jap trucks.
Just curious, what years were these made?
Pick a part run
in General Forums
Posted
OH OH OH OH OH!!!!!!
those 4 in the front right above the grille?
I kinda like those actually. Never seen them on an HB though.