1994SEV6
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Posts posted by 1994SEV6
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the tab on the centerlink (last pic) is for a factory steering stabilizer
am I supposed to have one, or is that like a special extra option package?
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In my process of slowly buying new replacement parts, I got some sway bar bushings. The rectangular ones with the dome shape on top. I knew this wouldn't make a WHOLE lot of difference, but they were cheap, and I thought it would be some easy fun.
I got everything off and my old bushings looked...almost better than the new ones. I could tell they were a little bit aged and cracking a little bit, but they weren't worn at all and are bigger than the new ones.
I put the new ones on, and I'm a little concerned with a gap, here's why
I don't like that gap at all. I know it's probably not a big deal, but it doesn't look like it should be there.
Here's Old vs. new
What's this little bracket on my steering bar? Does it have anything to do with those brackets on the bottom of my oil pan?
I also bought some upper control arm bushings. Mine are completely...blown, demolished, crushed. How easy are they to change? I tried changing my tie rod, but I kinda need two jacks to relieve tension on the tie rod. Is the control arm like this at all?
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There both ugly... Hell the only good car that has been made in the last ten years was a Holden that was rebadged as a Pontiac. And before that the late 300zxtt.
The recent GTO? yeah..massively underrated car. Came with either 5.7l or a 6.0...with a 6 SPEED!!!
So massively underrated. Sold the balls out of those cars, and then GM was like naw...let's make THE ugliest car ever (Aztek), let Pontiac take the hit, and then dissolve Pontiac.
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So you DIDN'T have to replace that tension rod? That's ridiculous damage though.
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Tried to change a tie rod end.
Didn't work out for me.
With my genius self, I concluded that I should buy an entire tie rod assembly. Trying to unbolt one tie rod end from a very old adjustment sleeve wouldn't work.
Any tips with this one?
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I don't know if the gas tank where it's at now (way in the rear) is necessarily the safest place for it. I suppose you would have to get hit REALLY hard for it to take damage, but still.
But, if you were to make it smaller or move it, inventing a tire carrier system doesn't sound very fun. I'm sure your first idea would be to adapt the tire carrier system of the Hardbody. Well, I have a Hardbody and boy, is putting that tire up and down a complete pain in the neck.
Most people who wheel with HBs chain the tire inside the bed anyway.
If the truck was mostly for the freeway, then sure, but it would be more trouble than it's worth.
P.S. I thought most people (who wheel) chained their spares to the roof of Pathfinders anyway?
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^^^ Yep.
Sounds like typical tire hop. That's why you should try to only use 4x4 in slippery surfaces. If there is room for slippage, then this shaking won't happen. If you continue to use 4x4 on surfaces with high friction (such as the road), parts will be subject to wear and tear. It will be your tires taking the damage, or even worse, your T-case taking the hit.
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What's the rating differnce on the 2 types of belts?
If you are asking frequency at which you have to change the belts, then the square tooth (93 and older) are ~60k. 94 and newer (round tooth) need to be changed at a generous 105k miles.
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That picture is worth 1000 words.
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Mine cost me $21 in Baton Rouge.
Course if I count in the gas my titan burned to go over there and get it I probably paid more than you.I wish you lived closer, I could help you mod and mount that, then you could help me put the trans back in mine!
I stop and look at it every day but it still hasn't moved on it's own.James
James, putting that hulking mass of a transmission back into a Pathy seriously isn't a 1-man job. If you get some help, it would only take a few hours.
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hmm. let me think. There's been quite a few things. Nothing terrible like
But here's a few things:
First of all, not really that big of a deal, but what pisses me off the most is that the previous owner put 30inch tires on the truck. So my speedometer is off by 14%, my odometer is racking up 14% more miles, and my engine is revving 14% higher. 3 different brands of tire. The spare tire was on a Nissan XE chrome wheel with a 27inch tire.
The stereo wiring harness was a mess...omg.
I have one brand of speaker in the drivers door, another brand in the pass. door, and some speakers out of a Chrysler in the back.
SEVERAL broken bolts/screws that were just left.
2 of my 3 tensioners for acc. belts were broken.
The intermediate pipe (the one with right after the Y pipe, and has the cat) has about six different welds. It has been spliced at least that many times.
My rear sliding window has no latch. I have no idea.
My sunroof glass has black caulk all over the bolts.
When I bought it, it had a half-full bottle of Power-steering fluid just chillin' next to the battery with no cap. Not even DEXRON, just some gas station BS.
The left side of my bed, pretty much where the tail light is, is all putty and bondo.
And my wiring harness for a trailer hook-up is pretty much nonexistant.
I think that's all I can complai- Uh, I mean, "think" of right now.
Other than that, there's just a lot of minor broken and missing stuff.
If I had spent a bit more time looking at the vehicle, I would have seen most of the stuff, but I still love it.
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NGK may be the best, but does it matter at $48?
I think Rockauto has sets of spark plug wires that range in price from like $13 to $24. I think the $24 are Bosch.
By spending $24 extra dollars (or $74 extra if they weren't on sale), what are you really gaining?
The answer is that you probably aren't gaining anything. Or at least anything significant.
Electricity is electricity.
You can even make your own wires if you want. Just buy a spool, cut it to the proper length, and crimp it.
My best friend's dad, who has a Corvette that produces over 1000hp, still uses regular Bosch wires.
Btw, the car is worth over 180k, so it's not him being cheap.
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Finally picked up a code reader today. Got the P1440 code (EVAP leak code). I traced a faint gas smell from the carbon canister area after stoping the engine. Guess I'll start there when I get the motivation to blast the area with my pressure washer as it is completely encased with red South Carolina clay.
did you have a check engine light on?
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Wow. Rust is a serious downer.
I haven't really experimented with those "rust-proofers" too much, but I didn't think it was such a big deal.
When you say the rust comes back, how long does it take? You think it will not work even for the year?
I just thought of something. Can't you somehow spray it with some sort of plastic coating? PVC in a can or something? I don't even know if that exists, but if you coat it in plastic then you would be fine.
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Nice action shots!!
oh..uh..NSFW!
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3.5l is a timing chain(as well as the 4.0 in later model).
3.3l is timing belt
3.0 is timing belt
2.4 is timing chain
You're talking in respect to all the r50 models? Because correct me if I'm wrong, I think the 2002 models only came with a 3.5l v6
5523Pathfinder was listing multiple common Nissan engines. The 3.5l VQ is what a 2002 Pathfinder would have. Earlier Pathfinders had the 3.3, and even earlier ones had the 3.0. Some nissan trucks and other cars used the 2.4l KA, which also had a timing chain.
Timing chains SHOULD last the "life" of the vehicle, but the life of a Nissan vehicle is much longer than the lift of an average vehicle. Generally, timing chains last 200k+ miles. But even then, they only stretch and warp in minute amounts. More than likely, your timing chain guides will be gone long before that. At 99k miles you shouldn't really have to do much at all.
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So I finally got a "muffler" on my truck.
A friend of mine welded some silly glass pack on the pipe coming from my cat.
Well, since it's not obnoxiously loud, I can hear a lot of other stuff with my truck. The engine fan is one of them. It took me a while to figure it out because I've never been in another vehicle where you can hear the fan from inside, but it's definitely the fan.
I can't hear it at idle, but if I rev it I can hear it, or even if I'm in 1st and sometimes 2nd gear. I can't hear it after that because of outside noises.
I can't imagine that something broken or malfunctioning would make it possible to hear my fan, but is this acceptable?
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Getting exhaust for these trucks is actually no fun.
I haven't had much luck. My muffler rusted off a good number of months ago, and I haven't figured out a solution.
You can always buy it from the dealer, but it will be pretty expensive. Advance Auto Parts wanted something like $300 for an exhaust system only from the cat back. Ridiculous.
I can't figure out a way to clamp it up either. Nissan originally used some weird clamps that are glued to some rubber which was bolted to the frame. Can't get the old broken clamps out, and don't know where to get new clamps.
I've tried rigging it up, but as of now, my "muffler" is resting on my cross members and hanging near my rear axle.
I would say to go to a junk yard, but that's not necessarily the type of stuff you want to get used. I guess if it looks rust free (or even new), then sure. But it's always a gamble.
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Changed the PCV valve!!!
Now, just waiting on payday to get the windshield!!!
LOL. I love how you operate.
$3 part now, $200 part next week.
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I have heard something before about over filling the trans, I dont know how to do it, but I heard that it was only good to do on the automatic trans. Do you guys recommend any trans fluid additives like lucas or anything?
over filling is only good to do on an automatic transmission? now...that's something you DON'T want to do.
That also goes for Lucas products.
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The front of the 18 wheeler is made of plastics and fiberglass.
The semi is white..the truck/suv is black. BLACK shrapnel flies everywhere. I don't even see any white shrapnel. A truck doesn't explode like that. A vehicle crumples when in an impact.
Dude, you're a retard. Obviously freezing conditions, and at minimum, 120mph impact speed.
what? why are you insulting me? What does it being cold have to do with anything besides the snow on the ground? That doesn't change how fake the video is. The website that it's on isn't even real. It's just a single, floating page. "Number of views: 0"
120mph? what are you talking about? That semi was not going 120mph. But I bet you'll say "oh, well the semi was going 60mph, and the truck was going 60mph. so, 60+ 60= 120."
First of all, that's not how that works. Second of all, the truck was not hit head-on, it was going laterally. It was a complete T-bone.
Here's an example of what happens when someone hits something REALLY hard. Note: the truck is not "shattered"
http://www2.wspa.com/news/2012/mar/18/north-charleston-man-ar-3434581/
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i think parts of them are fibreglass and the roof rack or fibreglass cap. that would shatter, especially below 0 deg C
Someone said that was an F150... didn't look like an F150 to me?
yeah. that was definitely an SUV.
If you pause it perfectly when there is a piece of the black shrapnel in screen, it looks like it's kind of floating above the ground.
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I'm not sure I believe that. When the Semi hit that vehicle, it shattered. Vehicles don't "shatter". Vehicles are made (mostly) of metal which bends and warps. That's not what a T-bone looks like.
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You know what works better is replacing the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. Then you won't have a "tired" ignition system. It's maintenance.
I just did the plugs..the rest will be coming soon.
Running a drunk pathie
in The Garage
Posted
those...are the exact same thing. You want to spend less. Period.