1994SEV6
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Posts posted by 1994SEV6
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Not around a corner, anyway!
aren't those kind of cars supposed to handle like really well?
I knew a guy who had a terrible beater fox body mustang. That thing was primer black. He just put a fin on the back, painted a yellow batman logo on the front and call it the Batmobile. Half the time he dressed up as batman. It was pretty cool.
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nobody thinks that it's the condensation drain hose draining onto the hot exhaust and causing a steaming sizzling sound?
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Went to school and wiped it down with wet paper towels and dry ones so water marks weren't a problem. Windexed the windows (not the widsheild). Wetn'blacked the tires so they were cleaner then drove to my HS to chill with some old friends.
So yesterday I wiped it down with wet paper towels and dried it. Then attempted some turtle wax on the exterior. Only did the hood, two fenders, and driver's door.
Wiped it down again. This time using micro fiber clothes. Clean up the boot.
Wiped it down after the rain.
Cleaned her.
Damn. you be cleaning your truck like erryday.
Today I was talking with my friends dad about my exhaust puffing and spark plugs. He asked if I had aluminum heads and told me to put ant-seize on the spark plugs instantly. "Next time you go to pull those spark plugs out, you'll pull the threads out with them". Probably not, but it's good insurance. He also told me that since the truck is so old and the electrical system is already kinda "tired", I should gap the plugs at .028 instead of .032-.035 (or closer to .036 in my case). Runs so much better now.
Anyway, that's pretty much what I did today. Finally, landscaping is starting up again. I can stop being so destitute.
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This sounds pretty typical of the safety mode for the transmission. Sometimes the transmission will lock itself into "limp home mode" if there is excessive wheelspin.
This has been mentioned on the forums a lot recently with "broken transmission" thread or something like that.
To get it out of fail-safe mode you have to do something like turn it on and off and then turn it on without starting it then wait 8 seconds and look for the flashing transmission mode light.
Let me see if I can find it for you
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http://m.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W80646
That's the "correct" tool for window crank removal. If you plan on pulling them alot, it's worth the 5 bucks to get one (it's a hard tool to wear out too
) It can be done with small screwdrivers, picks, and whatnot... but can test patiencewait...wut. I'm looking at the picture of that tool. I can't imagine how to even use it. Is the window crank like a snap ring type thing? I'm not trying to break some fragile plastic piece that's going to bug me every day for 3 months until I replace it.
I think my friend got that trim piece removal kit that SilverPath was talking about. It's 4 yellow things with flat and forked heads. Worked pretty well on the clips for the door panel
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Check the sizes.
All the transmission bolts are medium and short sized 14mm bolts. They are that yellowish galvanized metal color. The longer, 15mm, silver bolts are the starter bolts. There are only two of them. On the transmission there are one or two bolt holes that are not occupied. There are bolt holes on the trans side, but no bolt holes on the engine side.
Just FYI, there are 4 bolts securing the trans to the engine. There are 2 bolts for the starter. And on the bottom, there are about 6 bolts for the gussets.
P.S. the silver bolts are very easy to distinguish. Instead of going IN the engine, they come THROUGH the other side. Also, the starter bolts go in from the front and come out from the back. All the other bolts go in the back and come out the front.
The silver bolts have a weird stamp on the head.
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The speaker in my driver's door has been blown for quite some time. I finally removed it and put in some speaker I got from the Junkyard. The only problem is that all the speakers in my truck are secured by three screws in a triangular fashion. The one I got from the junkyard is a 4 screw hole design. It seems that all the other speakers I can find online are 4 holed also. I've tried google'ing crazy things to get a 3 holed speaker. It seems that 4 holes is the traditional way.
So, I need to get a speaker with 3 screw holes OR
I need to drill new holes. My pass. side window rattles quite a bit, and I've found out why. If I roll the window down a little bit, I can move the window from front to back. It has a LOT of play. My drivers side doesn't have this. I need to remove the door panel to fix the window problem, but I have no idea how to remove the panels. How do I remove the window roller handle and door handle?
Would drilling new holes be a bad idea?
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Not to burst your bubble, but a 4x4 Hardbody basically has a 1 inch body lift built in. Thats why its easier for you than a Pathy. Ask any Pathy with any sort of body lift, plug 6 is a piece of cake.
I don't think the 1 inch body lift is true.
Why would it being farther away make it easier? That's more distance to line up.
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this is a supercharged one?
I didn't spy a supercharger. I don't think I did at least.
Wow, that thing is really done up.
What is that big rod that goes across the steering wheel in front of the dash cluster?
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Put two gallons of race fuel in the tank and filled the rest up with standard pump gas... the Pathy has power all of a sudden hahaha...
oh @!*%!! that's awesome. That stuff is like $6 a gallon, right?
Anyway, here's my video. My explaining how to do, removing the spark plug, and installing it, all in under 6 minutes.
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Wow, that's actually really nice.
I was looking at the picture. Every single picture made my eyebrows go up more. "..wow" "..wow!" "wow" "whoa" "wow!!!" "is that stock?!"
Those 3 little switches next to the shifter, are those from Nissan or some aftermarket thing? Those are cool.
oops NVM. they said "air locker". I don't think Nissan did that.
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oil pan?
EEK. Tungsten is right.
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I noticed the truck felt a bit sluggish today going home. I think it was a psychological thing, but I wanted to double check my spark plugs.
One of them was .042, one was .040, one was .038, and the rest were in the .032-.035 range. I re-gapped them just to be as precise as I could.
Would these minute differences in the gaps make any real difference?
I put all the spark plugs back in, and there is a kind of "puff puff" to it now. It sounds like it is in the exhaust only.
It seems like some members on here have a genuine issue with the #6 plug. I made a little video of me getting it out in about 1 minute. Would anyone be interested in me posting it as a how-to?
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Sorry, but that's not much info at all. Just a "rattle" and "ping" noise isn't much.
Does it come back if you let off the gas? Does it run fine other wise? When you give it gas, you probably can't hear it because of the fan and exhaust.
It could be rod knock, lifter tap, water pump, something in the exhaust (like the vg30e exhaust manifold issue), something in the starter motor, loose bolt on the flywheel, any of the accessories
It could really be anything. 10 minutes of listening in various places and experimenting will rule out 95% of what it could be.
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My commute is about 4-6 miles each way depending on which route I take.
IF I leave my house at 6:55am, I can fly through and be there in 12-15mins. If I leave at 7:05am, I hit severe traffic and it takes 25mins.
The traffic is only in the last block of my trip. Pretty much, I'm sitting in traffic, being 3 minutes away from being late, in FRONT of my destination. funny how that works.
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Then sold it for something that got better MPG 93 pathfinder SE and only $400! (but the tbelt broke after 3 years)
Boy are you disappointed.
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Changed my spark plugs, PCV valve, and did an oil change today.
So that #6 spark plug? Took me about a minute to get it out. I could see how it could be hard to do, but I just used the shorter of the two spark plug thingys that Nissan provides. The trick is to look through the holes in the intake plenum to see where the plug is.
I had some time, so I put the first two spark plugs in at my girlfriend's house. The guy at AAP told me they were pre-gapped. I doubted this, but didn't know much better. I drove it for about 8 miles like that. I go back home and use my gapper and the new plugs were only gapped at .020 inches. It was still running but missing like crazy.
So I guess they were a bit overdue.
Anyone have any ideas on how old these plugs are? I think I heard somewhere that Nissan used Bosch plugs at the factory? So I don't think these plugs could be much more than 50-60k old.
OH yeah, if you notice in the first picture, one of the plugs actually has its washer seized to the plug body. There were actually two like that.
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My name is 1994SEV6 because I get all the ladies.
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Pretty sure, says hg43 in the engine bay. But now that I look at the sticker on the door it does say 235/75r15, is that 29"? If so, I guess that kinda makes up for it but like you say it still shouldn't be that high... Any more ideas??
i saw your problem the other day, and I went through and considered all errors. Even with 29" tires, your RPMs still wouldn't be that high. Same with the 4.6
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So apparently they made Jeep Liberty diesels?
that would be pretty damn cool.
this guy wants $5000
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pathy stayed the night about 6 miles deep in the woods with a broken idler arm...went up this morning and got it out
oh damn that's hardcore. Around here, it would probably have been ravaged.
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You're going to have to do some slight modification to your hood to fit this... just sayin, lol
naw chill. Rig it under the cargo area like a spare tire and pipe it to the intake.
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Its damn expensive to get a Bluebird (Datsun 510) let alone a Skyline. I know there was a giant scandal when Motorex was importing them into the states. 12k for a GTR is ok in my book! I'd just like to say I owned one and take it into my local Nissan dealer for a oil change.
I thought US made Skylines illegal to import because they literally just fall apart when you crash them. Super dangerous. US is like nuh-uh.
Check this out. Not even something you want to be involved in.
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I agree. An R50 would probably be more than plenty for what he needs.
IDK why, but in my area, R50s are almost cheaper than WD21s. You can get an absolutely perfect R50 with ~140k miles for $2500.
Down there, the strut housing rust problem doesn't really exist. For a daily driver, it would be great. Maybe get a 4x2 version with a stick?
The thing with Toyota vs. Nissan is negligible. IF the Toyota competing model is better, it's only marginally. The Toyota Tacoma MIGHT be better than the Frontier, and the 4runner MIGHT be better than the Pathfinder, but they will BOTH get you to 200k miles no problem. They are BOTH extremely reliable. But the difference is a $2500 R50 or a $4500 4runner.
We've all seen things about the R50 on the forums. Strut rot problems, not really having a frame, etc. Not really that big of a deal for a daily driver in Florida. We haven't heard much about the Xterra on these forums, but it's pretty damn close to the WD21, so you can't go wrong there. Based on my craigslist search, it might be a little hard to find an Xterra for under $4800. They only started making them in 2000, so they are newer and more expensive.
The Jeep Liberty..eh. IDK. I have nothing against Jeeps but it seems heavy and cumbersome. It's only been made since 2001 to it might be a bit expensive. IDK about Jeep Grand Cherokees, but the plain Cherokees are pretty good sometimes. I wouldn't mind having one.
Sizzling noise when turning sharp left...
in The Garage
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what are you talking about?
On my truck, there is a black hose running out of the cab straight down. It's zip-tied to some other hoses to keep it in place. It just runs down out to the ground. It's for the A/C to release condensation water. If that hose somehow came loose, it's only a few inches from my exhaust. I'll take pictures tomorrow.