1994SEV6
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Posts posted by 1994SEV6
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Reindex?
I read a thread on here about re-indexing the front torsion bars, but just to make sure:
You recommend completely un-tensioning the torsion bars, and re-adjusting the anchor that they sit in?
My adjustment bolts have not run out of threads. I am still able to crank them up more, but I feel this will make my front camber problem worse, at the expense of little ride height gain.
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x2 I believe that you should try to reindex the tbars first.
James
Reindex?
I read a thread on here about re-indexing the front torsion bars, but just to make sure:
You recommend completely un-tensioning the torsion bars, and re-adjusting the anchor that they sit in?
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Have you reindexed?
uhh...I don't think so.
I think I need to adjust something in the front suspension. Maybe I need to add a shim where the front upper control arm meets the frame?
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As some of you may know, I did an A/T to M/T swap on my 1994 D21 in Dec of 2011.
Ever since then, I've felt that my front end has been lower than it should be.
I just chucked it to me not having cranked the Torsion bars enough.
I finally got around to cranking them up some more. I can't remember, but I think I tried to crank them up significantly.
The front end barely came up any, but now my front wheels are positively cambered pretty badly. Like, you can see it with the eye.
My front wheels are like \ / but not so intense as the diagram (lol) suggests.
I would like to have the front end raised up a bit, and get my front wheels back to their positive camber.
Also, my rear end is sagging. The leaf springs have lost their curved shape when not-under-load. I plan on removing the leaf springs to get them re-arc'd. There is a shop in my area that does suspension for all of the big dump trucks and all that, and they will re-arc leaf springs for like $45 a side. (on a side note, is this a good idea at all? Or do leaf springs not take well to this type of treatment?)
I'm mentioning this because when I re-arc my rear leafs, the rear will be even higher. I already don't like how the rear is higher than the front, and re-arc'ing the leafs will make the rake even more intense. I don't want my truck to have the ass end in the air.
I think the front sagging makes it look like a 2wd, and I hate hate hate hate that. I bought a 4x4 truck, I want it to look like one dammit.
Here is my truck currently:
I would love it to look more like this, but I understand this is likely the work of a body lift at least. But even so, you can clearly see that the wheelwell gap in the front and the rear is equal. Actually, the gap in the front might even be a bit more.
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The link to "Brent's website" doesn't exist anymore.
Does anyone know how difficult of a project this is? How long it would take, how intuitive you have to be? I know I have an LSD, but I don't think it's working at all
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Shhhh. That's why I was trying to lure him into my trap.
ew. stop being a trap.
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Why are you guys saying a bunch of dumb stuff? "a 350 out of a TRUCK/VAN won't make 300hp"
Why the hell would you ever do an engine swap out of a truck??? Truck engines are tuned completely differently. not for performance
"oh well, yeah, of course the camaros and corvettes and CARS will make 300hp+"
NO @!*%!!!!!!!! That's why you want an engine out of one of the CARS because it's tuned for PERFORMANCE
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Yeah, I know. I installed a set of Nissan OEM manual locking hubs on my truck. They are definitely robust to say the least.
For most people, autos are fine in the snow. Even light wheeling. Then some people upgrade to manual hubs. 90% of 4x4 vehicles with manual hubs have warns. With that being said, I'm not going to spend $200-300 or whatever Warn wants for some manual hubs. Not when I can wait it out a few months and snag some Nissan OEMs from a JY for like $20 a piece at most.
Well, this strategy doesn't seem to work for Trogdor.
http://www.ebay.com/...r#ht_500wt_1198 This guy wants $77 for very clean hubs. That's a bit less than what I paid for mine.
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except Ford engines are some terrible-ness.
When Tungsten said "I doubt a stock 350 engine could put out 300hp", I was about to say "this ain't no Ford BS"
Even Ford's modern 5.0 (except new Mustangs, which they must have done some spooky magic on) only make like 230hp. Just last year, 2011 Lincolns with the 5.0 only had 230hp. Talk about some junk engines. Not even to mention the fact that reliability doesn't exist.
And then the new Toyota CAMRY (yes, the 4-door family car), can put out 270hp with an itty bitty V6. A family car.
Must I forget, that in 2003, Honda was pumping 240hp out of a 2.3l inline4? So...Honda = 240hp with 4 cylinders... Ford=230hp with 8 cylinders.
Ford, you're doing it wrong.
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OK but that four barrel is an expensive part.
Holley is worth it.
P.S. to the OP, go with carbureted. Don't mess around with fuel injected swaps. That's a pain! It also costs a whole bunch more.
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They did but not over 300. Then they went to fuel injection and got more power. Not sure if he is planning on running a carb one or fuel injected.
"780 CFM Holley four-barrel CARBURETOR on a special aluminum intake"..."rated at 370 bhp in early Corvette sales literature, but actually only sold as 360 bhp version at 6000 rpm and 380 lb-ft at 4000[7] (the NHRA rated it at 425 hp for classification purposes).
Just stop now. Please, for your own good. You're very wrong about this. I know older GM engines very well.
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I've called 40 (at least) different junkyards. No V6 Hardbody yet has had manual hubs, all auto. You have to also figure in that every 96-97 Hardbody was a 4 cylinder. There is no 96-97 V6 Hardbody, 2WD or 4WD. So there is an extra surplus of 4 cylinder models those 2 years with the 28 spline hubs.
jeez..you called 40 different junkyards and had them check for manual hubs?
Y U so butthurt over some manual hubs?
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1967–1969 L48 SS350 350 cu in (5.7 L) V8 295 hp (220 kW) (1969 300 hp (224 kW)) @ 4800 rpm, 380 lb·ft (515 N·m) @ 3200 rpm
http://en.wikipedia....rst_generation)
Are you sure you know anything about cars? They were pumping out 300hp from 350s over 40 years ago.
Did you even read the page that you linked above?
In 1970 the 350 was "rated at 370 bhp in early Corvette sales literature, but actually only sold as 360 bhp version at 6000 rpm and 380 lb-ft at 4000[7] (the NHRA rated it at 425 hp for classification purposes). "
My friend has a 1975 Chevy Vega with a 327 swap (that's LESS displacement for those people who don't know how engines work) and it easily puts out 350hp on stock internals. It's some engine from the 70s. carbureted, naturally aspirated, etc.
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Depending on the year. Last time I checked one out it was trashed. All the plastic panels were falling off and the trunk had water in it. They are great cars but only in the older generation. The first generation I think was the best. The second not so much.
So the fact that one car was beat and abused, that makes all of them crappy?
I mentioned this to a friend whose parents had one for a few months. He said it handled amazingly (the CTS mind you, not the CTSV), and even the larger of the V6s had enough power to get it to move. Of course, Cadillacs have nice interiors, but for this car, "nice interior" kinda means some nice leather seats but a bunch of plastic dash pieces. You might want to pony up and get a 1st gen CTSV. At this point, it's probably good performance for your dollar. The 2nd gen CTSV is where it's at though.
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Also, I doubt that a stock 350 Chevy will make over 300hp. It may get close to making 300 but to go over that would need some expensive parts.
.....you're kidding...right?
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Rpm is at around 500-800 so yea I imagine that it should be higher, where do I adjust? I don't have the original snorkel connected neither. The breather from the valve cover to the aircleaner. Think those thing would have something to do with the low rpm?
I wasn't saying your idling RPM was low. If it idles smoothly at 500-800 like you said, then leave it alone. Unless the air flow is somehow restricted, the lack of air intake components would not contribute to lowering your RPM. You should replace those parts, though. I could hear some whistling either from the air cleaner sucking air in, or some vacuum leaks.
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My 94 SEV6 HB had auto hubs from the factory, but I think it has to do more with the trim level than the engine.
To answer the actual question, it is certain enough to say that all Pathfinders came with Auto-locking hubs. I have seen probably 200 Pathfinders in junkyards and out on the road. Never, ever seen manual locking hubs on them. From the factory or otherwise.
What DID come with manual locking hubs were most (or all) of the 4cyl HBs and probably some of the V6s.
Think about this: if ONLY the 4cyl HBs ever came with the manual locking hubs, then I think they would be much harder to find. Only from 94-97 did 4cyl HBs have 28spline hubs, from 86-93, they had 27 spline. The majority of Pathfinders are 28 spline.
I believe that the XEV6 HBs probably had manual locking hubs if the extra option of auto-locking hubs wasn't ordered.
Manual locking hubs are in the manual to be more efficient. There is no point in removing that page and customizing the owner's manual.
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I am suspicious that the ECU resets itself at a certain speed, but it does "learn" and adjust certain things when you restart the vehicle. For example, it can adjust to different oxygen levels in different altitudes. There are methods here for checking codes and checking for vacuum leaks. Read and report back!
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Hey there. HB owner here. I haven't done much of anything to mind except trans swap, "custom" exhaust, and general maintenance.
Yeah, this forum is mainly for Pathfinders, but I just couldn't find anywhere else that had a decent forum going. Either way, a lot of people on here are dedicated to Nissans in general. Some of them just know Pathfinders and HBs REALLY well.
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You don't need to replace the fuel pump. That fuel pump is plenty capable of handling up to 300 hp.
i would hope that a chevy 350 would make more than 300hp. Also, the fuel pump may be able to handle up to 300hp, but that's probably balls to the wall.
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You have (at least) two different noises going on. There is a very obvious high-pitched tap that is at a very irregular rhythm, but then you also have an underlying, subtle, low-pitched knocking.
I'll listen again and edit
I don't think the high-pitched tapping/rapping is from anything related from the cylinders or cam/valves. It's just going too slow to be from that stuff, not to mention the irregular rhythm. If your engine is idling at ~800rpm, any sort of noise from a cylinder or valve/lifter is going to be ~13 times per second.
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UK cars aren't terrible in all aspects. For the most part, just replace all the wiring with a good wiring harness and you're good to go.
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Pinions are used in many places, not just steering...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pinion
Speed sensors can absolutely go bad.
yes. I was about to re-type that. I was very confused because this guy obvious knows plenty of stuff about automobiles. I saw his signature and then looked at the profile and saw the "Standalone tool chest mechanic" badge.
As long as the transmission and driveshaft spins, that speed sensor is pretty happy I would suppose. I would say that you need the proper one for your transmission and rear end. A 4.3 rear end will read differently than a 4.6 and you need a sensor that compensates so.
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And also has anyone replaced the pinion and ring lock for the pinion? I'm wondering if that's why this speed sensor has worn out so fast or not working at all
wha......?
Rack & pinion = steering
speed sensor = transmission
A speed sensor doesn't just "wear out". That's not a part that just up and gets broken. You should check the connections. See that it is properly installed and that the wires are properly connected and in good operating condition.
Front end sagging, but T-bars already cranked up
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
That's a good looking truck! So you're saying my current ride height is normal? I could swear it looked much more level when I got it 2 years ago.
I never noticed that my cab sat lower than the bed. It took me a second to even see what you were talking about. What causes this?? Is the mount fatiguing or something??