iceageg

Correction to my previous post . . . I managed to change the oil pump in my VG33 swapped WD21 last night without pulling the engine or front axle.

If I remember right the Napa "9390" part number is simply a 39" long 17 series belt.

My VG33 rebuild and swap is complete and has about 2500 trouble free miles on it now. This thread (and Mr. 510's adapter) were invaluable in getting it all done and together. I did run into one noteable difference that I thought I should add here for future readers. The issues that Mr. 510 ran into with belt alignment on his alternator were not present in my 92 for some reason. With the new oil filter location I did end up using a different belt length (Napa part# 9390) and I had to fab up a new tensioner using C.O.T.S. hardware but otherwise it went together well. I used the standard swing arm and adjustment block but had to remove the tensioning bolt and replace it with the following setup. 4" all-thread nut-washer-nut tightened about 1/2" from one end (to create a surface to push on the end of the original swing arm nut-nut tightened in the middle (to create a sort of bolt head halfway down the all-thread) in the end it looks like this ////NUTwasherNUT////////////////////////////////////NUTNUT//////////////////////////////////////////// that gets threaded all the way through the original tensioning block that is bolted to the alternator. I should have taken pictures. Now it is WAY down where most cameras don't fit. Set and tighten the original swing arm in its end position even though it is not long enough The open end of the all-thread is run into the original tensioning block with the nut-washer-nut end stuck into the end of the original swing arm Use the nut-nut setup in the middle to thread the new setup out of the original tensioning block and streach the belt. Tighten up the pivot and tensioning block and its all set.

This forum has saved me alot of headaches and been a terrific source of information. Happy to be able to contribute something tangible back!

I figured out what was causing our issue. Aparently the throwout bearing carrier popped loose one of the clips from the shift fork while we were installing the new engine. Also related, the clutch fork moved off of it's pivot and spun crooked. The end result was the throwout bearing not being able to travel all the way back, thus maintaining partial preasure on the preasure plate spines. The truck could be driven very gently with no problem, but any semi-agressive use of the trottle and it jumped 1-2000 rpm quickly. For anybody who suspects this might be their problem, look at the exposed end of your clutch fork. It should be lined up with the square in the bell housing that it sticks out of. The piston from the slave cylinder that pushes on that end of the clutch for should be pointed strait into the recess. If the shift fork is at an odd angle or that piston is pointed at a downward angle the problem I described above could be your issue. To fix this you will need to remove your slave cyliner to release that source of tension on the shift fork. I cut away the boot from the shift fork so i could look inside and verify that the bearing carrier was infact not clipped to the the for end properly. Using a long screw driver I was able to rotate the carrier into almost the correct location. Using vice grips and as my father calls it "gorrilla strength" I was able to rotate the shift fork back into place on the throwout bearing carrier. A few gentle taps with a hammer and the fork slid into the clip and realigned on the pivot correctly. Install a new boot on the clutch fork, put the slave cylinder back on and it was ready to go.

I managed to change the oil pump in my VG33 swapped WD21 last night. It can be done but you had better have the following on your side before you attempt it: 1) A very good assortment of tools including some you don't mind grinding/bending for the purpose. 2) A second set of hands to help with certain steps. 3) Superior ability to apply sealant to places where your fingers can not reach. 4) A very good ability to bolt things together that you cannot see, only touch with your fingertips. If you question your ability to provide any of these things . . . pull the motor or you will end up with bad things in your oil pan which will leak badly because it it isn't sealed properly.

I am experiencing the same thing after my vg33/new clutch/new mounts install. What did your's end up being? Thanks, Ian

Hurray for more CO members. Welcome!

New power steering line. Checked/topped off the tire preasure. Did some cleanup work to get the console ready for painting. Think I found room for the supercharger.

That's right. The original original gangsta'. Caveman style! Unfortunately there isn't really anything gangsta about me.

First initial = I Last name = Sage Middle initial = G I was given a username of IsageG about 15 years ago for something at work. I adapted it to IceageG and it has stuck ever since.

New front bumper and wipers blades all around. Plugged in the passenger side horn while I was there. Still sounds sad and needs to be replaced. Power steering line on back order.

Just a quick update . . . It seems like every time I get one project finished two more pop up. Progress on the console has been slow, but it is continueing. I have the holsters glassed and trimmed to fit. Just need to get them lined then I can fit them in and glass the rest of the exterior. My wife decided on painting it flat black rather than trying to match the blue of the interior. It has black seat covers front and back anyway. All of that will have to wait one day longer as the preasure line for the power steering has decided to start leaking . . . quite badly. Could be worse. I could have a car payment on something I am afraid to scratch and lack the computer science degree to work on.

Which is really sad because I can usually do a more than adequate job of making myself look bad without the help of others. All it takes is a public place and witnesses.

I can see room in an upcomming episode of Top Gear for the guys to test cornering, breaking and acceleration of their vehicles with drinks in the cupholders. Possibly best lap time without spilling your latte.

The project we currently have before the FAA is for the Lycoming IO-360 as it exists on the Diamond DA-40. We have gone to fair lengths to ensure that it will also bold on to just about any other Lycoming IO-360 with little modification. As with any STC it is the first one that takes the most effort. Once it is certified exspanding it to other airframes and engine sub-types is a comparativly easy effort. The big question with other airframes is the potential need to bump the cowling. We have done 337s on a number of aircraft based on our earlier STCs. Whether you are interested or not feel free to give us a call some time. All of our contact information is at www.forcedaeromotive.com. Oddly enough, we got a call from a gentleman in Tahoe this week who is interested in a system for his PPonk powered 182.

This guy is just happy his thread-jack ended up in another place!

It looks almost identical to the ones that come in Cirrus aircraft. I am sure they would sell some to you but the cost of aircraft parts usually prohibitivly expensive. A quick search of the internet turned up these on ebay, a random site, another site, or this site, or google. Seems I may have options for a cup holder if desired anyway.

We had a Piper Arrow when we started development on our first design some 20 years ago. That is a teriffic airframe. Not real confidence inspiring flying out of Truckee on a hot July afternoon though. We have always thought our system would be a perfect match for the smaller helicopters. Went so far as to contact Robinson and try to get something started with them but that ended up falling through at the time. It is almost time to open that door again.

We got our first STC about 7 years ago. Now we have 4 with a 5th in the test plan stage now. We meet with them next week to get the ball rolling. The first one was almost impossible because nobody had done anything like it before. The whole test plan had to be made from scratch. Now they are all pretty much the same. Still a big effort though.

The little pocket in the back is sealed. It is just the right size for the kids to put a Nintendo DS or doodle pad and a couple of pens in. No plans or need for an ash tray. The holsters will be a universal semi-auto. More of a pistol shaped compartment. I am using my XD-M as the basis to ensure that pretty much whatever I decide to carry that day will fit. The fit can always be adjusted with padding to suit something smaller. The intent is to have it easily accessible without the discomfort of having it concealed on my person. IWB carry in the small of the back or on the hip can get a bit uncomfortable for medium to long trips. Somebody asked earlier about the switches in the console, While there is only one slot used in my vehicle I did leave room and account for all four slots. Contributing to the general OT banter, I generaly try to avoid distractions while driving. Drinks generaly stay in the grocery bags until they get home or to the game/park/picnic/camp site. I even pull over to use my cell phone. All a cupholder is to me is an extra spot to collect change. For the guy on page 2 who has a console for sale, mine is a manual and my wife is now set on her custom console instead of a stock one. Thanks for letting me know though.

I LOVE the ingenuity and I am glad you are please with it. But I presented my wife with that and a "TADA! Look what I made for you out of stuff I found laying in the Target parking lot" I would likely be limping my way to a friends house for the night. Plus . . . no concealed holsters.

I never intended the skeleton to conform to the floor/tunnel. It is much easier to get the fiberglass to conform to the rounded shape of the tunnel than it is any wood product. As for crooked, its not. There are a couple of places where the wood split. Using one size larger drill bit to pilot the rest fixed that. The lid for the compartment wasn't lined up perfect in the pictures but it is not attached yet. I simple set it on top to form a more complete picture of what I was trying to accomplish. I plan on starting the forms for the holsers this weekend. They are the last piece keeping me from glassing the rest of the console. I will also try to get some decent pictures of the disaster that is what's left of the existing console. I hope to have it ready before Christmas but I have other projects and work taking up 16 hours/day until probably mid Dec. Progress should pick up after that. I fear if I don't get it done and installed soon I may be looking for a place to stay.

Age: 18 and below 19-30 30 and above (Circle One) Gender: Male Female (Circle One) 1.Are you a…. Student Parent Other (Circle One) 2.For a watch face, what colors do you like best? (Circle Only 2) Pink Blue Green Yellow Black Gray Purple Red Orange White 3.Do you wear a watch and/or a charm on a necklace or bracelet? (Circle All That Apply) Watch Charm 4.Would you like to have an extra sense of security? (Circle One) Yes No 5.Do you like to wear brightly colored watches? (Circle One) Yes No 6.Have you ever witnessed or been a victim of a crime, including but not limited to robbery, kidnapping, et cetera? (Circle One) Yes No 7.Do you go near “dangerous” areas often? (Circle One) Yes No 8.Have you ever been scared for your safety? (Circle One) Yes No 9.Do you carry a cell phone with you at all times? (Circle One) Yes No 10.Would you be willing to pay $30-$70 for a well-made, quality watch? (Circle One) Yes No 11.For a watch strap, which material would you prefer? (Circle One) Silicone Metal Links Leather 12.Do you like to tell time from a digital or analog clock? (Circle One) Digital Analog 13.If you are a parent, have you ever been concerned for your children’s safety? (Circle One) Yes No 14.If you are a student, have your parents ever expressed concern for your safety?(Circle One) Yes No 15.Why do you wear a watch? (Circle All That Apply) Function Fashion Sport

The point wasn't specifically to make people think about aircraft engines, rather to think about power production on the whole and how different methods of producing power can be used cross-platform. Aviation piston engines are WAY behind the technology curve for many reasons (some good, some not so good). As a result they have been forced to adopt different technologies as a means to increase power and reliability. Most people are unaware of the differences between the two. This is my small attempt at bridging that gap. I encourage questions about why and/or what each piece is. If you think you are close please venture a guess.