iceageg

Correction to my previous post . . . I managed to change the oil pump in my VG33 swapped WD21 last night without pulling the engine or front axle.

If I remember right the Napa "9390" part number is simply a 39" long 17 series belt.

My VG33 rebuild and swap is complete and has about 2500 trouble free miles on it now. This thread (and Mr. 510's adapter) were invaluable in getting it all done and together. I did run into one noteable difference that I thought I should add here for future readers. The issues that Mr. 510 ran into with belt alignment on his alternator were not present in my 92 for some reason. With the new oil filter location I did end up using a different belt length (Napa part# 9390) and I had to fab up a new tensioner using C.O.T.S. hardware but otherwise it went together well. I used the standard swing arm and adjustment block but had to remove the tensioning bolt and replace it with the following setup. 4" all-thread nut-washer-nut tightened about 1/2" from one end (to create a surface to push on the end of the original swing arm nut-nut tightened in the middle (to create a sort of bolt head halfway down the all-thread) in the end it looks like this ////NUTwasherNUT////////////////////////////////////NUTNUT//////////////////////////////////////////// that gets threaded all the way through the original tensioning block that is bolted to the alternator. I should have taken pictures. Now it is WAY down where most cameras don't fit. Set and tighten the original swing arm in its end position even though it is not long enough The open end of the all-thread is run into the original tensioning block with the nut-washer-nut end stuck into the end of the original swing arm Use the nut-nut setup in the middle to thread the new setup out of the original tensioning block and streach the belt. Tighten up the pivot and tensioning block and its all set.

This forum has saved me alot of headaches and been a terrific source of information. Happy to be able to contribute something tangible back!

I figured out what was causing our issue. Aparently the throwout bearing carrier popped loose one of the clips from the shift fork while we were installing the new engine. Also related, the clutch fork moved off of it's pivot and spun crooked. The end result was the throwout bearing not being able to travel all the way back, thus maintaining partial preasure on the preasure plate spines. The truck could be driven very gently with no problem, but any semi-agressive use of the trottle and it jumped 1-2000 rpm quickly. For anybody who suspects this might be their problem, look at the exposed end of your clutch fork. It should be lined up with the square in the bell housing that it sticks out of. The piston from the slave cylinder that pushes on that end of the clutch for should be pointed strait into the recess. If the shift fork is at an odd angle or that piston is pointed at a downward angle the problem I described above could be your issue. To fix this you will need to remove your slave cyliner to release that source of tension on the shift fork. I cut away the boot from the shift fork so i could look inside and verify that the bearing carrier was infact not clipped to the the for end properly. Using a long screw driver I was able to rotate the carrier into almost the correct location. Using vice grips and as my father calls it "gorrilla strength" I was able to rotate the shift fork back into place on the throwout bearing carrier. A few gentle taps with a hammer and the fork slid into the clip and realigned on the pivot correctly. Install a new boot on the clutch fork, put the slave cylinder back on and it was ready to go.

I managed to change the oil pump in my VG33 swapped WD21 last night. It can be done but you had better have the following on your side before you attempt it: 1) A very good assortment of tools including some you don't mind grinding/bending for the purpose. 2) A second set of hands to help with certain steps. 3) Superior ability to apply sealant to places where your fingers can not reach. 4) A very good ability to bolt things together that you cannot see, only touch with your fingertips. If you question your ability to provide any of these things . . . pull the motor or you will end up with bad things in your oil pan which will leak badly because it it isn't sealed properly.

I am experiencing the same thing after my vg33/new clutch/new mounts install. What did your's end up being? Thanks, Ian

New power steering line. Checked/topped off the tire preasure. Did some cleanup work to get the console ready for painting. Think I found room for the supercharger.

New front bumper and wipers blades all around. Plugged in the passenger side horn while I was there. Still sounds sad and needs to be replaced. Power steering line on back order.

Just a quick update . . . It seems like every time I get one project finished two more pop up. Progress on the console has been slow, but it is continueing. I have the holsters glassed and trimmed to fit. Just need to get them lined then I can fit them in and glass the rest of the exterior. My wife decided on painting it flat black rather than trying to match the blue of the interior. It has black seat covers front and back anyway. All of that will have to wait one day longer as the preasure line for the power steering has decided to start leaking . . . quite badly. Could be worse. I could have a car payment on something I am afraid to scratch and lack the computer science degree to work on.

Which is really sad because I can usually do a more than adequate job of making myself look bad without the help of others. All it takes is a public place and witnesses.

I can see room in an upcomming episode of Top Gear for the guys to test cornering, breaking and acceleration of their vehicles with drinks in the cupholders. Possibly best lap time without spilling your latte.

This guy is just happy his thread-jack ended up in another place!

It looks almost identical to the ones that come in Cirrus aircraft. I am sure they would sell some to you but the cost of aircraft parts usually prohibitivly expensive. A quick search of the internet turned up these on ebay, a random site, another site, or this site, or google. Seems I may have options for a cup holder if desired anyway.

The little pocket in the back is sealed. It is just the right size for the kids to put a Nintendo DS or doodle pad and a couple of pens in. No plans or need for an ash tray. The holsters will be a universal semi-auto. More of a pistol shaped compartment. I am using my XD-M as the basis to ensure that pretty much whatever I decide to carry that day will fit. The fit can always be adjusted with padding to suit something smaller. The intent is to have it easily accessible without the discomfort of having it concealed on my person. IWB carry in the small of the back or on the hip can get a bit uncomfortable for medium to long trips. Somebody asked earlier about the switches in the console, While there is only one slot used in my vehicle I did leave room and account for all four slots. Contributing to the general OT banter, I generaly try to avoid distractions while driving. Drinks generaly stay in the grocery bags until they get home or to the game/park/picnic/camp site. I even pull over to use my cell phone. All a cupholder is to me is an extra spot to collect change. For the guy on page 2 who has a console for sale, mine is a manual and my wife is now set on her custom console instead of a stock one. Thanks for letting me know though.

I LOVE the ingenuity and I am glad you are please with it. But I presented my wife with that and a "TADA! Look what I made for you out of stuff I found laying in the Target parking lot" I would likely be limping my way to a friends house for the night. Plus . . . no concealed holsters.

I never intended the skeleton to conform to the floor/tunnel. It is much easier to get the fiberglass to conform to the rounded shape of the tunnel than it is any wood product. As for crooked, its not. There are a couple of places where the wood split. Using one size larger drill bit to pilot the rest fixed that. The lid for the compartment wasn't lined up perfect in the pictures but it is not attached yet. I simple set it on top to form a more complete picture of what I was trying to accomplish. I plan on starting the forms for the holsers this weekend. They are the last piece keeping me from glassing the rest of the console. I will also try to get some decent pictures of the disaster that is what's left of the existing console. I hope to have it ready before Christmas but I have other projects and work taking up 16 hours/day until probably mid Dec. Progress should pick up after that. I fear if I don't get it done and installed soon I may be looking for a place to stay.

As somebody who makes his living off of the production of aftermarket parts, OEM nazis don't bother me in the least. And I am quite sure my wife is more eager to see the final result as well.

The wood is simply the skeleton that the fiberglass forms around. While I did try to build it as stout as practical, the fiberglass itself adds tremendous strength to the whole assembly. For comparison, speaker boxes are often made with only a base and 3 sides with slender dowels holding up wooden rings. Fleece and fiberglass is layed to make the side(s) of the box that you can see. The rings then hold up competition quality speakers that can easily weigh 50lbs each and create a tremendous vibration. As for the fiberglass itself . . . yes it is messy and time consuming. In the end though I will have something I created myself. However, if you can find me a center console for a 92 Pathy that won't fall apart like all of the others I've found in Denver that includes two built in concealed holsters I might scrap my project and buy it.

In Tungsten's defence it does look like @!*%. Time put into making it look pretty at this stage of the build is time wasted. The fleece all gets covered up and sanded over. I would be stupid to waste time making it attractive at this stage. I did consider cup holders but a larger general purpose compartment and twin built in holsers was the order for this project. I like the idea of adding a power outlet though . . . hmmmmm. As for the condition of the existing console, it is missing from the parking brake back. The PO told us it was smashed beyond recognition and no longer has the pieces. I am stuck with finding one or making one. I think my choice is clear.

When we purchased our '92 Pathy there were a number of known issues that we are fixing as time and funds allow. One of those was a smashed center console. After checking several scrap yards in the area and visiting a few part outs it became aparent that every used center console available had been smashed in a similar manner to our own. I decided to make one from scratch using the same techniques that I have used to make speaker boxes in the past. Mats: Wood for skeleton (I used .75"x1.5"x8' but thinner material would work) Wood glue for skeleton Screws/brads/nails to assemble skeleton Drill/screw driver/hammer Fleece to support skin Optional chicken wire or similar material to form interior pockets if desired Staple gun & staples Fiberglass sheets Fiberglass resin Cups for mixing resin Brushs to apply resin Body filler (if you intend to paint) Multiple grits of sand paper (if you intend to paint) Paint (if you intend to paint) Vinyl (if you want the leather look) Carpet (if you want to cover on the cheap without painting) Spray adhesive (if you don't paint) The basic techniques for this can be found in hundreds of places online so I will not detail every nuance of how to operate a saw, stapler, brush, sand paper, paint can, fiber glass, carpet or vinyl. When I am finished I will come back and post links to good resources for those if desired. For now I will simply post a few pics of my progress and update the first post as updates are available. I have limited bandwidth in my life so am seldom able to start a project and finish it as rapidly as humanly possible. Planning: Spend some time at the start to envision your final product. Now is the time to decide on any special features your existing console did not have. For instance, the small recess under the parking break that could serve as a small dish for coins or a garage door opener is absolute crap. It is not deep enough and the sides are sloped so anything in that dish goes flying under the seat when going around a corner. The one I designed has strait sides, is deeper, and extends farther forward towards the gear shift than the original. I have also accounted for a built in holser on either side, a small hidden compartment and a pocket facing the rear seat, but those are details for later. For now decide what features you want and envision them in the car. Measure the space you have and verify that your plan will work. Modify as needed and measure again. Make sure you write down all of those dimensions and ensure that the measurements add up. I used a CAD program to make 2D scematics but paper and pencil have always served me well in the past. This diagram will allow you to figure out how much of what material you will need for your build. Assemble skeleton: Now that you have your diagram and aquired the materials you need it is time to start assembly. Brads are often used for assembling the skeletons of speaker boxes but I used screws. You will want to predrill the holes for the screws to avoid splitting the thin lumber. The fiberglass provides most of the strength but every little bit helps. You will see some triangle gussets in my design for this reason. Depending on the fit/finish you are looking for you could run the exposed edges through a router after the glue dries to round the corners. I did not elect to do this myself. Fleece inner skin: Once the glue has had a chance to set overnight you can apply the fleece that will provide the shape for the fiberglass. Use the staple gun to attach the fleece to the frame and pull it snug around all of your formed surfaces. If you have done speaker boxes with this technique before you will be frustrated by the number of interior folds and cutting you need to do at each corner. Fortunately, the fiberglass and body filler will cover up any blemishes so this step does not need to be aesthetically perfect. For the rear facing pocket I used chicken wire to for the pocket then wrapped the wire in fleece. The wire/fleece assembly was then stapled in place and will be glassed over. This would likely be much easier without the outer pocket skin in place but I am going to try it with the outer fleece already in place. After the fiberglass skin is complete I will cut out the slot for the parking break. I already know that the arm rest/compartment will be overly large and be partially in the way of the parking break but I already understand that and am ok with it. Of note, in my build I already know I will need to cut the side fabric down to improve access to the internal holsters. This will require me to create and attach the holsers prior to glassing the outer skin. I will provide details about creating the holsers as well once they are complete. I currently have several projects competing for my time. I appologize in advance to those who are hoping for more rapid progress but I assure you I am using every available moment to get this done.

Last weekend I got my my custom center console drafted in CAD and put my materials list together. Yesterday I got the skeleton assembled. Today I will try to get the moulds for the skin assembled and on the skeleton. Pics and build thread to follow.

Discovered power stearing leak. Need to locate the source. Gave her her first full exterior wash/wax/tire/wheel spa treatment. Found out the power door locks work intermitently. Found out the rear washer fluid pump does not work. Hurray for successful forum searches. Liking this group more and more.