therepairgod

even easier solution that took 20 seconds... didnt even have to take anything apart. removed the key and screwed a small pan head sheet metal screw into the the white plastic housing just below the emergency key release lever, preventing it from engaging. works like new now, the button even still works.

im nearly ceratin it is the revolution sensor connection. its the only 3 wire connection on the entire transmission and it effects downshifting from d4 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_ZalgYPLjXsUllqTUUxQkp0VmVrM0I3d19QQ3pBUGlUcmJr/view?usp=sharing

Back to the issue. I have a 90 pathy with a 91 tranny that was installed by the previous owner. There are 3 wires black, white and red that are not an o2 sensor, they go to the tail end of the transmission on top of it, they are easily followed to the transmission connector which controls the kickdown solenoid, just above the fuel filter. When the previous owner installed it, he did not use the factory connector but crimp on splices simply pushed onto the male terminals of the wiring harness. That connector has black white and black with white stripes. The connector and butchered solenoid wires were taped together but has come loose. My manual does not even show the wiring at all and I cannot find any info online as to the correct pin out. Symptoms of I'm in overdrive and try to accelerate, the transmission spools out of gear and basically into neutral if I turn off overdrive same thing happens. All other speeds it will downshift correctly, so I know it's only involving overdrive kickdown. It truly sucks, going down the highway at 65 and have to slow down to 55 to go faster.

I'm sorry, but you just simply do not understand. Please move on.

I have never heard of a 3 wire o2 sensor installed in the over drive unit, of a transmission...

i have a pic, but i cant post it here.

Manual didn't shed any light, and unfortunately neither did that pic. Back to guessing and blowing up the tranny I guess. Thank you!

If I say please, would it help?

Starter replaced Radiator flush Oil change Fuel filter Plugs Rotated tires And those pesky strut arm bushings

My pathy wont downshift at highway speeds. the transmission kicks out of overdrive and out of gear altogether. we found an electrical connection right by the fuel filter that had been severed by the previous owner and rigged back together, that had pulled loose. the wires are in fact for the solenoid 3 of them. black white and red without the factory terminal. the coresponding connector has different color coding for the harness. my question is if someone can snap a pic of that connection, so i can correctly splice the wires back together. its on a mount with 3 terminals attached to the wheel well, right above the fuel filter.

sweet 33"s it is! i drive in a lot of sand around here, and the extra flotation of 2 inches of tread width will help, i was just worried getting the truck to accelerate in the sand. im going to have to get some ponies under the hood but its good to know that its manageable. as far as my speedo, my tranny is a 95 and the gearing is wrong, garmin says 65 speedo say 78. at least with 4 inch taller tires the speedo should get closer. i know i could change speedo gears, but the garmin never lies.

im trying to decide between 31"x10.5 or 33"x12.5. how much power loss would there be? the one upside to the 33's is that it would correct my speedo lol. i know they will fit with a lil trimming but i dont want to have to regear the axles if its going to suck. id rather get the 31's and not worry, but traction is king and 2 inches wider and another 1 of pumpkin clearence is hard to pass up. thoughts? i tried searching the forums btw, all the links were dead. oh and before i get asked, firestone destination m/t is the tire im looking at. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Destination+M%2FT&partnum=105R5DESTMTOWL

i did some investigative flexing last night to test your comment. the front didnt respond any differently with or without the bar installed on the front. maybe an inch more flex than without. the rear end when backing up the ramp massively flexed, and the body was level. when the front was up, it felt like i was going to roll lol. the bar being out just smooths out the side to side thrashing, and on the highway i feel like im driving a baja trophy truck. with the bar in, i get tossed back and forth in my seat offroad but it handles like a race car on the highway.even just little things ive noticed, turning into a driveway for instance, with the bar the body pitches hard as the first front tire goes up and then pitches back hard for the second and then dont forget about the rebound! without, it just crawls over and hardly will spill my coffee. after seeing the difference between how the 2 suspension systems(front and rear) react, it makes me want a SAS really bad. as far as the bar goes, i will install it monday for the work week and pull it out before trailday. takes about 2 minutes.

ive got some ideas brewing. im looking for an old shopping cart corral, to cut up. i was at walmart last night getting excited lol. i just want a low profile anchoring system for a few items as well as a folding light rack. ive got it in my head i just need a Mig and a cart corral!

ive never had a front skid plate... i will gladly accept gifts...

ive had it out for 2 days and there is a drastic improvement as far as handling, the only thing i noticed is at highway speeds going around a curve, when i hit a lump or valley in the road i can feel the steering trying to find center as the truck body rolls back. its not drastic or uncontrollable at all. so much smoother offroad though omg. im still pushing forward with the disconnects, everything is built i just need to make some corrections in the sway bar itself as it doesnt line back up easy enough to get the bushing seated and the links back together. looks badass, i love having a lathe.

could you put the moog part number up please? even napa was confused as to what i was talking about.

ive got a prototype mocked up, sending it off to a machinist friend to make the final piece. my factory link is nearly severed at the control arm so i have to replace it one way or another, if this works great it was worth the try right? i dont have a skid plate in the front so removing the bar and stashing under the back seats is no biggie. i got some metric wing bolts to replace the one that holds the frame bushing cap. in theory, remove the sway bar bushing top plate with the wing bolts, then pull two safety pins in the links and pull the bar out. my only unknown is how difficult it will be to line it all back up and put it back on. thankfully i can make some light bends to the bar to get it to line up with out binding. for the record i removed one side last night just to try it around my block, and it made a huge difference going over or into obstacles. the sway bar limits individual front end suspension flex side to side. the suspension is designed to move, so removing the bar doesnt add any strain to any components, it just allows one side to to flex without pitching the body side to side. it was awesome! wasnt excited about turning but going 3 miles an hour down a trail shouldnt have any problems. im glad i asked and thank you for the help y'all!

well after much deliberation and thought, ive divised a way to make disconnects. that was the easy part, the hard part is determining what to do with the bar after its disconnected. the tierods are in the way to rotate the sway bar, so i have to figure out an easy tool less way to remove the sway bar to frame mounts. might be just as simple as a wingbolt, but rest assured i will conquer this and post photos when its done.

looks like im machining some disconnects!

that is a VERY clean look! im trying to accomplish two things with a rack. one a place to tuck away and protect trail lights, and two extraction gear. with the sunroof its like an escape hatch lol, i spend alot of time exiting out the top to pull my friends cherokee out of holes that i made it through, it would be nice to have a basket to put straps and chains in. although im starting to rethink mounting anything on the outside of the pathy and heres why... branches. i was thinking the frontier rack and then low profile lights under the bars but thats still a lot of money just to have some lights and a basket. so my thought is to mount ammo boxes to the tire swing, and drill holes in the bottom of the box to store chains and such, they are lockable, durable, and the perfect size. as for the lights, im thinking 2 on the hood with a frame around them, cantilevering back to the center of the hood with a small basket behind the lights to put a strap in while running trails. the goal is to have nothing that will snag up but easily have access to extraction equipment that i dont have to get under the truck to hook up just pop my head out the top and throw a rope. it gets old getting your feet muddy when its somebody else's mess.

not a bad deal! im trying to swallow $1100 for dick cepeks. you will go a lil faster, the engine wont have to work as hard but the narrow tire wont float on soft stuff as well as the 12.5. depending on the tire model, it could easily measure close to the same. for instance im lookling at 31x10.5x15 that actually measure 31 high 8.5 wide... my current 30x9.5 actually measure a tread width of 10... go figure...

ive already removed the rear and oh what diference that made! virtually no decernable difference on the road but now the body doesnt pitch and roll while going over,well things, but the front end still throws the truck around. has anyone removed the front and rear bars? if so, how was the results? i drive mainly highway, i will never tow with this truck, and when it gets offroad it gets pushed pretty hard. just tired of limiting suspension travel just to get thrown around the cab as the front end negotiates obstacles.

ive noticed in trying to search old posts that the links are dead on some posts. not links to articles or photos but the actual forum link. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?/topic/33061-2wd-steering-setup-installed-w-pictures-using-oem-steering-damper/page__view__findpost__p__622028__hl__%2Bsway+%2Bbar for instance this one...

finally got my starter replaced after a nasty mudhole claimed it. under an hour, it helps to have air tools and every adapter known to mechanics, but not that hard all in all. now to replace the strut rod bushings...