craftsman67

I was able to get to it without doing anything with the timing belt cover...guess I jut had the right socket and swivel...I did however have to change my oil because of the excessive fuel that was dumped in the cylinders. When I replaced the sensor, I couldn't let it sit and idle long because I was so low on fuel, so I test drove it a little early. I was heading to the store, and got about a half mile up the road when I noticed very low oil pressure, so I turned around and headed back home. It was ticking pretty bad when I turned into my drive, so I shut it off and coasted in. I checked the oil and was puzzled why it was so full on the stick with no oil pressure, and sounding like it was dry as a bone. It was late, so I gave up till this morning. Thats when I noticed the gas mixed in it. I drained it, put new oil with some Lucas oil stabilizer, and it seems to be running as good as ever!...Should I be really concerned about the excessive gas in the oil, or do you think I caught it in time where there shouldn't be any permanent damage? I have a friend that will do a compression test on it when I can get to his house. He just lives about an hour away, and I don't want to risk the long drive just yet.

Where can I find a harness for this...not having much luck looking online. Do you know of a link you can send me, or do I just have to try my luck at a salvage yard?

Never mind man...I just read this post again. The first time I just skimmed over it, and I think I can handle it.... I sure hope this is it!

I thought it might be the same one, but there are two of them in question. one is on top of the intake next to the radiator intake, and the other one is behind the timing belt cover, I'm told...I haven't looked for it yet. The guy at Advance said that one of them is to cut the fan on and off...Is that the one on top of the intake? I'm guessing the 13 is for the one behind the timing cover...Am I right?

I copied this from another site, but it seems to be missing some info...It's supposed to be 1987 Nissan codes...check out 13...It says Cylinder head temp sensor. Could this cause this condition? The ECU constantly monitors the function of various sensors and actuators, regardless of ignition key position. If a malfunction is present, it is stored in the ECU and can be retrieved from memory by turning on diagnostic mode selector, located on the side of the ECU. When activated, malfunction is indicated by a series of flashing red and green light emitting diodes, also located on the ECU. When displaying malfunction codes, then code number can be determined by counting the number of light pulses. The red light represents the first digit of the code, while the green light represents the second digit of the code. For example, a Code 12 would be displayed as one flash of the red light, followed by two flashes of the green light. Malfunction codes can be translated using the following decoding chart: Code 11 -- Crank angle sensor circuit malfunction. Code 12 -- Air flow meter circuit malfunction. Code 13 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/VG30i engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Cylinder head temperature sensor circuit malfunction. Code 13 -- 200SX w/CA20E engine, Pathfinder & Pickup w/Z24i engine, Pulsar, Sentra, Stanza, Stanza Wagon & Van. Water temperature sensor circuit malfunction. Code 21 -- Ignition signal missing in primary coil. Code 22 -- Maxima, Stanza, Stanza Wagon, 200SX & 300ZX. Fuel pump circuit malfunction. Code 22 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Idle speed control slips out. Code 33 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Exhaust gas sensor circuit malfunction. Code 34 -- Pulsar w/CA16DE engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Detonation sensor circuit malfunction. Code 41 -- 200SX w/VG30E engine, Maxima & 300ZX. Fuel temperature sensor circuit malfunction. Code 41 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, 200SX w/CA20E engine, Stanza & Stanza Wagon. Air temperature sensor circuit malfunction. Code 42 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine, Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Throttle sensor circuit malfunction. Code 43 -- Pulsar & Sentra w/E16i engine. Mixture ratio feedback control slips out. Code 43 -- Pathfinder, Pickup & Van. Injector circuit malfunction. Code 44 -- All monitored systems satisfactory. The diagnostic code retained in the ECU will automatically be erased after starter is operated for 50 times

Finally got it back home where I can tinker with it...still not having any luck, so I was thinking something was clogging the injectors again. I changed the fuel filter and replaced the rubber fuel hose. I poured a little Seafoam in the filter before I reattached it, and ran it for a few min...Nothing really changed, so I decided to check the codes again before I pulled the injectors. This time I got a 13, which according to the thread on here is a engine coolant temp sensor. I also read that a bad one could cause it to dump enough fuel in the TB to flood it out some how... Do you think this could be my problem?

So this can keep dumping fuel like clogged injectors do huh?...I've now gotten a 13 on the ecu and was thinking my injectors were clogged again...I just replaced the fuel line and filter and wanted to check the ecu one more time before I pulled the injectors back out. Is 13 a engine coolant temp sensor on a 87? I know some are different, like the 43 injector code was.

Are you sure you read it right...must have set up for a while!

MAF is new, but I will take a close look at the wires...we didn't think about the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose either...Thanks, I'll give it a shot!

After a recent T.B. work on injectors, and replacement of all sensors on it about a month ago...but more recently I replaced the radiator 6 days ago, it seems to be having some more fuel issues of sort...or so it seems. Yesterday morning it started fine, but on the way to work when I stopped at a stop light, I noticed it was idling a little rough. It ran fine at the speed limit speeds, so the first thing that came to mind was maybe a vacuum line might have come loose. I looked when I got to the job, and thought I found one...but I could have knocked it loose while checking it, just not sure. I put it back hoping it would solve the problem, but no change in the idle. I came home for a few minutes after work, then I had to run an errand to a friends house...I stopped at Walmart by his house to kill a few minutes until he got home. I came back out and tried to start it but the battery was too weak to turn over. (I knew about the weak battery) So I called him to stop by there to give me a jump. It turned over, but wouldn't start like normal after several attempts. I had to hold it to the floor to get it to start, and keep on the gas for it to run...no idle. I barely made it to his house, but I had to roll through a couple of stop signs, and pop the clutch to restart also, to keep it running. It was dark and getting late so he gave me a ride home. Today I had a friend with more mechanical skills than me, look at it but we still couldn't find the problem. When we first started it, it did idle rough for a couple minutes, then no idle after that. We pulled the injector wires, one at a time to see if that would make a difference, but still no results. We pulled the seat out an checked the ECM code, but it read a 44. Any ideas on what it could be?

Yeah, I had already thought that I would do them all at the same time...any recommendations on a website for parts?

Mine is a 5 speed...

Rust? Really? I see you are also in N.C. so yours must have been relocated. My 87 is rust free, as far as I can tell. It was a 1 owner still in all original condition (no mods or paint) and in GREAT shape except for the dashboard of coarse. I couldn't believe it was over 20 years old when I first saw it.

Thanks man...I'll swap it as soon as I can then. I want it to last as long as possible. I'm actually looking forward to the challenge...I always have N.P.O.R.A. if I get stuck!