BrianD

I did get the parts from Parts Source and they lent me the flarging tool kit as well. Will heat loosen these nutz for me? Any input is welcome. Thanx!

Thanx - I had a wife lightly step on the brakes while I was under neath and found the leak - see the picture above - lux like I got about 3 to replace. Pls read the response above - any advice on getting these nutz loose in such a confined space is pretty tough - will heat help me with this? I do not have acetylene - just a propane torch. thanx again

Load bearing sensor? That thing with the big spring on it? Is that what that thing is? Yeah the metal line on the top left in the photo is leaking - the nutz seem like they are welded in there - had to put the tools away cause we got a storm but I am ready to apply heat to the nuts to help with loosening - is that what U wud do? The nutz are so rusted that the 10mm wrench doesn't fit tight anymore and I'm afraid to round it off with force alone. Thanx for yer input - any more advice is very welcome.

Thanx bud - after looking at the cluster *my "vocabulary" is so small* under there I called the local dealer and ordered the only part they had ..which turned out to be the rite one. The other rusted lines that I am going to replace are back ordered so I got sum stuff from the PArts Source and I'll try my hand at it - mechanics are too expensive - I only paid $500 for it so this is to be expected

I blew arear brake line last nite - do I need Genuine Nissan parts to fix it or can I do it myself? I haven't crawled under it yet today but it's leaking at the rear cluster point where the lines split to go to both rear wheels - anybody dun this B4? Also goin to get my new lower rad support - any tips on this install wud B helpful too. Thanx - Brian

My 98 was parked for 2 years sloping downwards at the front - it collected water so the lower rad support is completely shot and the new part is in. Any tips on how to replace this? How shud I hold up the rads without removing them. I know all the bolts are going to snap( like everything else I've replaced so far) so I'll have to drill and tap the existing holes out before installing the new rad support. I hope that if any members have any advice before I start this job U wud send it my way pls. I've installed a new driver's side front fender and new bumper - been drilling and tapping a lot of new threads so far so ..more to come.

I busted my Nutz and bolts removing the fender and bumper - had to drill and retap the holes in many places even after adding Penetrating fluid and oil. I decided I'll patch the passenger fender cause it's not too bad and sell or return it and use the money for a lower rad support. Anybody ever replace one o deez? I thot I'd add sum tips on the removal - if U remove the signals lights - U can get in thru those holes to get at the bolts and nuts that U loosen to remove the whole bumper & fairing assembly with licence plate and fogs lights all in one big pc. As long as U have disconnected yer lights and fasteners from the bumper corners - put it all back together as 1 pc and slide it on - install 2 bolts and tighten everything up. Waiting on a new lower rad support. I had to do it this way cause my body guy will need to take it apart for paint and body work in various places and he wud go thru hell to take it apart and worse - and get new fasteners to put it back together again - I'm just saving him time which is saving money for me. I think it rusted so badly because of the slant forwards that it was on while parked for 2 years. What say U?

OK - here's my first try at this - tell me if werx. http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n498/briandrum1/98%20PATHFINDER/

I got em from a friend of a friend in St.Thomas Ont ...(can't say) dealer for cost $128 - list is $179 - the new bumper was $79 - list $117 - the bumper ends were $36 - list $53 - add taxes to all of those prices - I got 2 new rear KYB OEM shox for $102 too.

Thanx - I took yer advice and been hitting it with a hammer in th ebad spots to see if I can make a hole - so far so good - - I am gonna get sum ??? oil/ under coating while I have the inner fender panels off and get this all coated before replacing them and then getting a major oil spray this fall. What's the best oil I can use at home for this? Thanx bud.

Thanx _ I will try that!

Sorry I can't answer your question about the crank - Wud sum one PLS tell how U post these large pictures? I wud like to add pix but can't find answers anywhere - Sorry man - Newbe here.

Thanx man - I will check that out - How do I add pix?

So...I bought this 98 Pathy for $500 a month ago - put an alternator and battery in it - it started (after 2 yrs of sitting) like it was never shut off...it runs great! (I changed the engine oil and filter before starting it) 230kms - the recalls have not been dun yet but the rust on the frame is almost nothing. All the doors and rubber gaskets are like NEW! It passed safety and E-test - I even has NEW brakes on it. So far I have fixed: Tons of little stuff and cleaned and cleaned it AAND... All 4 window mouldings(rusted badly) I got from the wreckers $35 I got the rear wiper motor fixed with new brushes and it was seized too.$70..but now it blows fuses? Help! I bought 4 new rims for it ...been spraying rust goo at it everywhere. I also had a lower passenger side A arm ball joint replaced yesterday $120 + labour, cause the steering wheel was shaking on a long 100 km left turn - it still had a shake in the steering wheel so we put the rear tires on the front and Vise Versa and the shake is gone - Altho they look like new, I need 1 or 2 Bridgestone Dueler H/T 689 – P265/70R15 110S - any cost saving to be had here from anyone?? I ordered 2 new front fenders for it yesterday and chrome front bumper too (replacing the holey stuff)- waiting for the parts. Gotta cut out & replace the rusted stuff under the passenger doors too. I'm looking for cheap rear corner chrome for it still as well. I am trying to find out if I can repair my rusted out tranny lines better than the pc of rubber hose that is presently on there. The Japan Tsunami has new lines back ordered... Can anyone give me sum advice? I also priced 2 rear shocks and was Shocked to find they want $85 + tax ea for them! Can any one save me sum $? Gotta get the A/C fixed too. I ordered vent visors too. What's the best spark plugs for it - anything to save $ on fuel I can do? Any advise with any or all of the above is welcome. Change all the fluids? I'm in Kitchener Ont Canada - Thanx in advance - Brian PS - I had a dream last night that I was a Muffler - I woke up exhausted haha!

I hooked it to a 12volt car battery - it worked like new - how wud I check it? I put in a 30 amp fuse and that also blew - thanx for yer help so far.

I am hoping someone can help with a rear wiper motor problem on my 98 pathy chilikoot - I got new brushes installed and the main axle was un-seized - it's now working(on the work bench with 12 volts supplied) I installed the newly rebuilt wiper motor assembly and now it blows fuses?!? WTF? The rear washer was working without blowing fuses BEFORE the motor was fixed. I tried a bigger fuse(against my better judgement) and it also blew.I carefully inspected all the wires under the rubber boot where it meets the rear door and looked at the switch and it all lux gud.In fact, all the rear door wires look like new. What now? Any suggestions?