BrianD

Uh ..so the CEL light came back on a week later - I got the gas filler tube recall done yesterday for free(THANX) before looking anywhwere else for problems - the mech hands me a slip - Self Diagnostic Results - it shows - 1.Evap Small Leak P0440 & 2. Vent COntrol Valve P1448 - but there's no CEL light on anymore so uh ..what now again? It's running great! OCT 20/11

Thanks guys so much - Sorry for the late reply - I was out of province on tour. My mechanic removed the code with his computer - there are no issues sice then and it hasn't come back onin the last 12 days. It seems to be running great - I think I'll leave it alone. That link is great thanx.

I called Keystone /Cross Canada - they had no stock - they told me to call back in a few weeks - which will B next week - I asked him for pictures so I know what I'm getting - I'll let U know what I get - ...if I get 'em. Thanx

The CEL came on the other day - I had it checked by my mechanic with his code reader - He said it's a evap code (I think 440)- it cud B a bunch of things causing it - I haven't had the Gas filler tube recall dun yet - it runs just fine and I don't smell anything weird - it first came on when I hit the loud pedal hard to get into on coming hiway traffic. He erased the code and it hasn't come back on so far. so really ..uh I'd just like to hear what any members think I shud do about it. Thanks - Brian

Wow Thanx a lot - I needed that cause I didn't know where to start looking! THANX!

When driving with my cruise control on 95 km (that's where it's most noticeable)it feels like the vehicle is ...uh jumpy? or ...it is getting fuel and letting off too much to feel smooth. Keep in mind it's not a huge amount of surge with increase and decrease of momentum. I feel it's wasting fuel and is annoying - I thot it was my imagination but, when relaxing a lot, I can feel my head lurch towards the back when driving on a flat and smooth paved hiway with very little wind. The speedo reads a steady speed but there's gotta B a problem there because it feels normal at 115km - cud this B spark plugs? This truck runs great when driving at all times without the cruise on so ..I guess it shudn't B plugs - cud it B a vacuum line or speed sensor maybe? Where do I start looking for a remedy? Anybody? Thanx - Brian

Thanx a lot - I never thot o that - will do!

Thanx everybody - in the owners manual on page 8-19 (do it yourself) there's a procedure to check the brake booster - which I did and it seems to work better now - Oh ..I also did the emergency brake handle pull(also in the owners manual)which is supposed to adjust the rear shoes - the pedal is still a bit low and bugs me - I gotta get 4 rubber tubes and bottles for bleeding. However ..in the workshop manual - it says to bleed the load sensing valve FIRST!( I do not see a bleeder vavle for it) then do the bleeding in order of: Left rear - rite rear - left front - rite front - which I've dun 2X - duh! I was also told to leave the brake fluid resevoir lid off over nite and sumtimes it will bubble the air out on it's own - Which I have not dun yet...if have any luck with all of the suggestions I will post again...it rained all day yesterday and I have no garage.

THANX MUCHLY BUDDY!

I am looking for new rocker panels for my 98 pathy - they don't sell just the rocker panels - Nissan wants to sell me the whole door frame - I need to know if anyone makes these and where to get'em...oh and how much$? Thanx - brian

Thanx - I will try that!

When driving at nite I don't see any indicator lights in the dash to locate: 1) cruise control(works fine) 2) mirror adjustment(they work ..just no indicator lights to find em in the dark) 3) rear wiper switch(no light?) 4) electric window switches in the drivers door(are there any light indicators for these?) 5) door lock switches(are there indicator lights for these?) 6) my security light is flashing - don't know why - is it supposed to? 7) keyless entry doesn't work either 8) rear wiper motor still blows fuses but(that's in another post)I still have not resolved this..yet 9) no fog lights 10) Rear console cigarette lighter is not working either All my gauges and instrument lights and indicators work fine. There is a DVD installed for the rear passengers(never even turned it on to see if it werx))that came with this pathy that the previous owner still wants back - They told me it was "professionally" installed but ..U know what that cud mean. If it were dark rite now I'd go and check for anything else but otherwise everything inside and out werx good. Anyone? thanx brian

See my new rad support install pix!

I got a 1998 pathy 2 months ago that sat for 2 years - 235 km - it has TOns of power - tranny worx great too - when U add the juice to it and it still rox - otherwise I wudn't have dun all the repairs to it. It is a solid vehicle and worth the $1500 I put into it - (I got it for $500) see my lower rad support install pix - I also added a new fender & new front bumpers - a ball joint - rear shox - rebuilt rear wiper motor - blower motor resistor - new rims - a brake line - alternator and battery - I will have to cut out the rusted rocker panels and weld new ones in and fix the A/C as well - but I think this vehicle is worth it. Oh got the new steel tranny cooler line to go in yet too.

I have posted before about replacing my brake lines - so that went well but now I've got a low brake pedal - Bled them 2 x all 4 wheels - even removed the ground from the battery but still I have to push the brake pedal quite far before getting any action - Suggestions pls? Thanx - Brian

I tried ording other rear brake lines - they do not have them anymore - U'll have 2 maake yer own.

Oops - I forgot the last picture

Here's a some info and what to expect when removing an old rad support and installing a new one. U will need: Hand drill and drill bits Tap and die set (for retapping broken bolts) Lot of metric wrenches and sockets A mig welder 8 Hours of time if your really fast Removeal of all parts attached the "lower rad support" which of course shud B called, major front lower and upper rad support that holds the bumpers - fenders - coolant bottle - washer reservoir - hood release -horns - lights - tow hooks - wire harness and lots of other things. Once U have all the parts removed - U'll have to find all the spot welds and then centre punch and drill them out about 1/2 way thru and use a chisel and hammer to get the remainder separated. There's a lot! Use a needle nose pliers to remove the clips that attach the wiring harness to the rad support and push it back out of the way. U will need to hang your rads from the hood catch so U won't damage them. I used a broom stick to hold open the hood while doing this. U can see that I missed a few spot welds and the damn thing still doesn't what to come out so I busted it out and removed the remaining spots afterwards. I used a bolt to plug the antifreeze line seen hanging. Once U have it out U clean up all the 1/2 drilled holes with a Dremel so they are smooth and clean and then bend straight what U messed up while getting the old one off - I used a body dolly and hammer to do this. Make sure U have a clean surface to weld to. Short bursts with a mig works great to fill the holes. The new one( which was primed black) was painted with silver before installation - I didn't have to grind off the new paint off for welding because U will B drilling 1/2 way thru the new part into the tabs that are behind for welding - Use a marker and then centre punch before drilling - make sure U sheild your rads and battery from welding sparks to prevent damage and/or explosion. I started at the bottom and worked my way up with the welds - use Lots C clamps to make sure U have it positioned properly BEFORE welding. Look closely at the C clamp on the left and U'll see the holes we drilled before welding. I took a little extra time to clean and paint a lot of the brackets before reinstallation - I cleaned the spot welds after with a rag and painted over them to prevent rust. The fenders will have to be installed here cause the antifreeze bottle bolts to it. The plastic grill and filler strip went on next followed by the bumper and tow hooks - signal lights and everything else. This wud have cost a lot at a shop - $1200 - $1500 maybe more - This cost me $140 for the "part" and 12 hours of time - I cud do it a lot faster now that I know what to expect but I DON"T want to do another one - ..unless I was paid $1200 to $1500 LOL!

Thanx - Actually - it's a bolt on pc - a big one - $140 - I will have to get sum paint on it before installing - there's lotz of stuff to remove that's fer shur...I'll let ya know how it goes after I get my brake lines fixed. I'm shur I'll B busting all the rusted nutz and bolts off just like my fender and bumper replacement...there's lotz of bolts to had at the local TSC store for a descent $. If ya got any advise on doing this job - I'm all ears - Thanx man.

Thanx - pls read above.

The Tsunami has lots of stuff back ordered so don't expect to get them if U R in a hurry.

Yes - they had only one which came over nite - $20 -