barthel

Hats off to you TC! That is a ball buster of a job, i did it on my 88. Swore up and down i would never even consider doing it again. I even went as far as to go to Harbor Freight and bought a bearing press to help. Probably just made it worse. I still have a scar on my finger from that job!

I actually used a pint of trans flush first. But yes, that's the way i did it.

I bypassed the stock cooler altogether and put in a B&M 70268. B&M 70268 from Summit Tranny runs smooth, shifts nice and I've had no issues with it since. It was easy to install although i had to put it inbetween the rad and the A/C condenser, not enough room in front of the condenser.

www.rockauto.com Do a search by the car, then the part needed. The part number below should be the correct one. Call the tech line if you're unsure but I get parts from them all the time. Good prices and I've never got the wrong part. BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0941246 Brake Cable, Right Rear;Four Wheel Drive (4X4);Rear Disc Brakes;1 Per Car $40.79

:tonguefinger: Expensive, but quite possibly worth it. I went with Royal Purple as well, and notice the shifting got smoother almost immediately. Had my rig out wheeling in the desert last month, it perfomed beautifully with the new fluid. I changed my T-case fluid to the RP ATF and am going to swap out my diff fluids as well. I' was very impressed.

The help is much appreciated. That's the last time i trust the Haynes manual, 4.6 qts my A**!

*UPDATE* Not sure what to make of this, so I thought I'd ask. I drained my T-case today. According to the FSM, the T-case holds 4.6 quarts. I only drained out about 3 to 3 1/2 (which didn't bug me). I let it drain for a solid hour on a level surface, re-installed the plug and went to fill it up. Well, to make a long story short, it only took about 2 1/2 quarts to refill until it started pouring out the fill hole. Should this concern me?

Great info, I'll be changing it later this week (to ATF) Thanks a ton gang!

Sounds like it's definitely out of time. Turn the crank pulley to line up the timing marks on the cam pulleys, then check your distibutor. The rotor should be pointing at the #1 wire. Now, verify that you're at TDC using a dowel (I used a small screwdriver), place it into the #1 cylinder and let it rest on the piston. Slightly move the crank pulley, the dowel should only go down. You may have slipped some teeth when you broke the cam, in which case you'll have to re-time it completely. Casey definitely has a point about checking the compression in ALL cylinders. It only takes a few teeth's worth of slip for the pistons to start hitting valves.

If it's not posted, or private property, HAVE FUN!

I've seen threads about using gear oil (75W90W) or ATF in the TX10 transfer case. I have an '88 Auto and was wondering if one was preferable over the other. I'm going to change the rear diff fluid next week and was going to do the transfer case at the same time. I have 6 quarts of synthetic ATF already that I'm not using, so i could use that for the t-case, or I have to get the additional gear oil when I get the stuff for the diff. Just curious what you guys (and gals) thought about one vs. the other.

Does anyone here have any experience with BP skids, fitting a set for a 90-95 on an '88? Curious if it would work. Thanks in advance.

And they're a PITA to replace. I wrestled with mine for 15 minutes.

Would that be considered a defect???? Kidding of couse. PM'd you Martin, thanks.

I need to change my rear bumper in a BAD way. I've been all over the net and am having little luck (other than having one fabbed, which is WAY too much money right now). Any of you know if there are bumpers for other vehicle that will work on the pathy's with little or lite modding? I would love a tube style rear bumper (like the Smittybilt's) but am not sure which ones are close. Any ideas? BTW, I drive an '88 WD-21 Thanks much!