msavides
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Posts posted by msavides
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did you check out my links? The TB's on that site are all brand new and cheap, as an example I bought a brand new in the Nissan crate 5 speed tranny for my 90 sentra that listed for over $1500 and got it for $450 DELIVERED!!
Damn. You got a Awesome Deal.
I bought my 91 pathfinders 5 speed tranny and tranfer case from them Brand new in crate for $900.00 shipped to my door about 3 years ago. Worked great still had all the factory nissan tags on it.
Those guys are awesome.
Mark
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And it will keep the bottom of the engine free from diaper rash.
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and registering it. i have a nissan sentra with a rusted body and i wanna find a better body and put my motor in to it and use whatever body parts that the new body needs. my question is if i register it will it be a salvaged title?
here is what you will have to do. Besides all the hoops you have to go through to get it smogged, you will have to gave a brake and Tailight inspection done, you will also have to have a dmv inspection done. As long as all the vin plates on the vehicle match you will have no problems with the dmv inspection. If any of them don't match you will have to go to CHP and have them make a Custom vin plate to attach to the vehicle. And yes all vehicles that have had a junk slip, if they are to be reregistered will have a salvaged title.
This is based on doing this about 15 years ago. Things could have changed now.
Mark
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PART NUMBER: 24079-40F00
ENGINE SUB HARNESS
(NISSAN LIST $32.50)
I ordered it through Alkorahil on this forum
Pm him and he can give you his price for it.
I have spent almost 3 years trying to get rid of My code 45 (leaking injector) Check engine light. If this POS harness fixes it. I don't care if it is hokey.
So far so good. AN interesting thing happed when I installed it. though. For the first 2 miles (until the truck warmed up) my truck missed and spat ans sputtered and was cutting out. I thought crap This thing is doing mor harm than good. Then after it warmed up it was like a switch was flipped and it smoothed out. I have not had a problem yet in over a month.
Mark
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Make sure you overfill the Transmission.
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That is the factory sub harness that Nissan released to fix the MAF ground wiring.
I expected a little better build quality out of it myself. I just installed one on my truck and so far (knock on wood) My CEL has not come back. I will hold my breath.
But It is Authentic Nissan.
Mark
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I have an new cable sitting in my garage If you want it.
Mark
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Hey, good idea!! Do they nest that well??
B
They go together perfectly. Just have to run a drill through the holes to straighten them out and get longer bolts. I welded up that useless radiator drain plug hole as well.
I still have not got under the truck to take a photo of the carnage.
Mark
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I took 2 of the stock skid plates and welded them together. I drilled holes every 4 inches and plug welded them and ground them flat. I had to get longer bolts. So far it has held up. I Put a huge dent in it slamming it into some rocks last year. I will post of couple of pics of how well it took it. I powder coated the inside silver so I can see better in the engine compartment and used roll on bed liner for the bottom.
Here some pics of the build
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Summit racing has redline Mt-90 they get it to us californians in a day.
Only stuff I use in pathfinder Manual Transmissions. Although I only use Royal purple ATF in all my autos.
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I ordered a starter for it just after my last post. I bought the stuff to do what your suggesting a month ago so I may try it tomorrow so I can say I did everything. Changing that starter with the headers and body lift is not going to be easy.
MrJim
I have changed a starter on one without a lift and headers and one with a lift and headers. Let me just say the one with the lift and headers was 100 times easier. This was a manual transmission though.
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Not a problem. Just looking for someone to suggest some dates. Not too much dialog going on here lately. So I will just pop in every now and then to see if a trip date gets suggested.
Mark
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Do you guys have any dates in mind? I'm considering making the trip. I've never wheeled at Holister and i'm up for meeting some NPORA members.
I am available any weekend. Still waiting for the people with more delicate schedules to suggest some dates.
Mark
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I was just saying to myself...."oh please oh please just work ...." Drive around a lot early today and it seemed ok. sometimes it pauses at 1000 rpms as it drops from driving speed, and then settles right at about 760 rms nice and smooth. With 252,000+ miles on the engine...I know it will never be pefect again but at least it seems like the wild rpm days are behind me now....finally.
so this spring I replaced: all hydraulic lifters, new plenum gasket (of course), all new vacuum lines, new spark plugs, new power steering high pressure line, new IAC valve, new distributor cap & rotor (today), seafoamed intake system (via brake booster vacuum....lots of pretty white smoke!)
I may replace the EGR stuff since I believe its all original.....next pay day
The pause at 1000 rpm is normal in a manual. From what I was told it is controlled by the ecu to allow for better syncro shifting. after a few sec it figures out that you are not going to shift and settles down to normal idle. I am thinking of putting in a federal ecu to take care of my check engine light. since federal in 91 did not have the injector trouble codes. I will see if it works. But first I want to install the Mass air flow sub harness to see if that takes care of the problem.
Mark
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success. First try. took about 20 minutes. I did my best to set the new sensor to the same position the old one was in with a flat head screwdriver (turning the mechanism the throttle plate shaft goes into on the sensor) attached to the throttle body in as close to the same position as old one was in also...set idle speed, shut off engine, reconnected everything, started up, test drove for a few miles, drives great....got my idle just a tad higher than 750....more like about 760 but I can live with that. Checked ECU for codes..."55" (all normal) Truck seems happy so I'm happy.
Now I'm going to go do yard work....
Oh and the new sensor was only $11.65 (beck arnley) on closeout at Rock Auto parts. (for 5 speed manual)
Cool.. Got out an get a lotto ticket now. Your extremely lucky.
I got the same deal at rock auto in November. I did not think they had anymore. But good score.
Mark
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I finally got my new TPS in the mail today......now to see if I have the patience to deal with it. Guess I need to go buy an Ohm Meter too.....
I wish you luck.
And my idle has been still perfect.
Stupid check engine light!!
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I've heard all the octane banter here also....but my 1990 always runs much better on premium. Even with the new knock sensor and no error codes....everything in good shape etc etc.
87 or 89.....under load....mine knocks still/runs noisier. So I just pay the extra few cents and live with it. with 250,000+ miles on it....she keeps on going and I just changed all the spark
plugs last month when I replaced my lifters....they all had perfect "wear" on them. About 350 miles to a tank of gas give or take driving conditions.
As I understood it on these rides, the timing is electronically controlled so I never mess with it....
Need to replace my TPS sometime but I hear it's a bitch to get it adjusted right...and I've heard that its easy....which is it? I've never replaced one.
-Chris
I guess it depends on your luck. I had no such luck. It took me 2 hours. and about 60 attempts to get it correctly set. See here for my tips
http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25451&st=20
Mark
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I have the fuses installed in my hubs, I also have an arb in the front.
I have not broke any cv's or any fuses. However I have replaced both of my cv's with new ones from rock auto.
In going over the specs for the fuses. They are still stronger than what the cv's are rated at. I think even with the fuse the cv's are still the weak link. The fuses are designed to fit many different hub model and I don't think they are rated to break before our lowly nissan cv's break. Also if your Cv's are breaking because they are binding then the fuse will not offer you any protection whatsoever. since the bind occurs well before the fuse.
Also replacement cv's I have noted have less angle before they bind. I tested this against my stock Nissan ones when I replaced them with new ones. (I replaced my boots on my old shafts and kept them as spares for this reason. Now my only thought about this is that the nissan ones were worn so they did not bind as easy. So I eased the new one in to try and break them in before giving them the extreme stress of hard wheeling. This is just a theory.
Just My 2 Cents
Mark
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Do we have a date yet?? I'll drive the distance and be equally weenie about wheeling since I'll need the truck to get home.
Seriously, it would be fun and I'd like to meet more NPORA members...
B
There are very few trails that will cause trail damage to a well maintenance truck (exception of tank traps). the biggest disadvantage that Enjoy had was not having a limited slip differential. This particular spot would flex the rear to get one tire off the ground and the other wheel would just spin. This made him have to get a running start to get past it (uphill mind you). When he would get up to the spot. The front end would get wheel hop and that is what was the demise of his half shaft and his steering components. I also don't think he had been wheeling much with a manual transmission. And it takes a while to get really competent at it. I am still stalling the engine and burning up clutch material. But I am getting better with each trip.
I am not one to push people to do what they are not comfortable with, but I was wheeling with him before and it did not sink in to me at that time that he had not wheeled this truck that much, And i knew nothing of this trucks capabilities
I think we should start by throwing a date out there and seeing how many people can make it.
Since B seems to have the most restrictive schedule I think he should suggest the first date. I for the most part can make it anytime.
Mark
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yes that is correct the timing is controlled by some loop back and has to do with the CPS
i guess ill keep using 89 and ignore that problem
maybe a mix of 87 and 89 will help
such is the case of the VG30E with intake, headers, and a sport exhaust
how about an ECU upgrade?
If you do not already have a factory service manual get one.
It has detailed instructions on how to set you base idle and troubleshooting for figuring out your idle. you also have an aac valve that controls your idle. I just went through some wacky unstable idling problems that turned out to be my Throttle Position Sensor. your problem seems to be with your cold idle and there is really good troubleshooting for that. you could even look at the 1995 manual that in online in pdf format, I don't think there was any troubleshooting differences between 91 and 95.
Mark
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You could have made it. If you did not break an axle. especially since it was new. And you got a Calmini steering system Now. You can make it now.
How about next time you lead the way.
Mark
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I have had zero success adjusting timing on my truck. every time I try to adjust it it moves then goes right back to 15, i then turn the dist again it move for a sec then goes right back to 15. So i don't think adjusting it will help. I think the ecu corrects it.
When I was doing a tune up I read the proper way to adjust the base timing is to disconnect the harness plug from the Throttle position sensor, and that disables the auto timing adjustment then you adjust the timing to as close to 15 BTDC as possible. as soon as you reconnect the TPS it adjusts itself anyways.
I am not 100% sure if this is correct operation, This is from my experiences with my truck.
Mark
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For anyone who is dealing with broken Bolts.
These are the SHIZIT!
I had no problems removing my 3 broken studs with these. they drill reverse and once you drill into the bolt far enough you turn the extractor on the bit to remove. They are truly AWESOME. I have also removed other broken studs with ease. My antenna just snapped off flush on my pathfinder so I will be trying them out on it as well.
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Hello All!
I can't believe how I ended up here! I lucked out and found a 1990 2dr SE Pathfinder with only 115,000 miles. Only after researching the background of the vehicle have I realized exactly how fortunate I have become. This is my first 4x4 and I can't wait for the next storm so I can race it through some mud!!
Are you in Northern or southern California. We lost a few wheelers here in northern California. Would be nice to replenish the pathfinder pool.
WELCOME!.
Rock auto Parts clearance 91 wd21
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclefeeds.php?carcode=1211881&m=wc&l=en&html=true
Get the parts while they last.