Chriskaw440

Hi there neighbor LOL. Yeah the shipping cost more than the three rubber stops but I couldn't find any locally and would cost me as much in gas to go to a dealership that did have them. Mine is a 5 speed and sure enough, all the rubber stops were gone except for the square one on the clutch pedal and the unused round one on the clutch pedal. As I mentioned earlier, my clutch interlock switch has been bypassed since last year but I did notice that that one was gone too. I live just off the Peak Exit on 26. -Chris

Thanks for the help. My local Nissan dealership wanted $5.25 for each OEM rubber stopper...and was out of stock. I ordered 3 from Z1 Motorsports in Georgia (I'm in South Carolina) for $3.23 each. I borrowed one from the clutch pedal that did not have any switch (in the up position)and put it on the brake pedal for the brake lights for now. The back tab of course mostly broke off when I pried it off the clutch pedal since its brittle from age...so I placed a dab of liquid nails adhesive on it to ensure it would stay in place for the time being on the brake pedal. Seems that over the years, as of last night, ALL the rubber stoppers on all the pedals had broken off except for two of the three stoppers on the clutch pedal. The clutch interlock one was missing too but my interlock is bypassed anyway. thanks again. (what stinks is, the shipping for these things costs more than the three rubber stoppers do!)

thanks Dennis...it looks like its the pad on the brake pedal that broke off is the problem. Since both of the pads are missing for each switch, this may be my answer as to why my cruise control hasn't worked in years also! it probably fell off the pedal a long time ago.....now both have broken off so the both switches are not being activated when the pedal is in the full-up rest position.

You hit the nail on the head....went out to check the brake pedal...and where there normally would be TWO round hard rubber pads that depress the brake light switch(es)....are gone. I found the broken up pieces in my floor mat. Now to come up with a quick fix. How did you fix yours? I kinda doubt you can actually order those pads?? thanks again...you saved me from ordering parts I didn't need. -Chris

ah thanks...will check in the morning (call of duty black ops is calling my name at the moment LOL) If it is the switch thats bad at least they are super cheap $$ -Chris

My 1990 SE decided to have mysterious brake lights...after coming home from the gym tonight, and parking the pathy....a little while later, the brake lights came on by themselves...while truck not running. I figured it has to be a brake light switch on the brake pedal assembly. There are two of them that look identical. I unplugged the right hand one and the lights went out/off. unplugged the left hand one and plugged the right hand one back in, lights came back on. I have never had to deal with these before so I am wondering if I have to replace BOTH switches, or just the left hand one. They are inexpensive and available on rockautoparts.com ps...the brake lights stayed on whether the brake pedal was depressed or not. Im thinking the switch just shorted out/went bad? thanks, Chris

you'll have to take the plenum and intake manifold off to get to the knock sensor since it is located on top of the engine block under the manifold. I did mine a while back...not hard if you are familiar with removal procedure of all that stuff. From what I understand, if the sensor is bad, the computer will allow the engine to run at a 'baseline' mode, kinda like safe-mode on a computer. It will run ok, but not at is peak performance...or something like that. (mine is a 1990 se)

Its not uncommon for the LOWER rear control arm bushings to be blown out at that age. They will allow the whole rear axle to "pop" back and forth when a load is put on them or taken off... I replaced all my lower arm bushings with out the use of any press. Just takes some grinding out of the space in the arm they go in to allow for the new ones to fit...tapping in with a mallet. I used a sanding drum on a drill while the arm was clamped in a vice. getting the old bushings out of the arms....now thats a chore! but I used a hammer and chisel to bust out the remaining bushing rubber and knock out the metal center bolt collar, then used a sawz-all to GENTLY cut the metal sleeve of the bushing so it would collapse and thus be tapped out easily...being careful not to cut through the arm its self. This was about two years ago....this past weekend I was going to replace the upper control arm bushings, only to find out after removing the arms from the truck that they were still in perfect condition so I didn't bother. Now I have extra brand new bushings that I'm looking to sell to anyone that needs them for a lot less than if you order from anywhere...and these are pretty much the last of them from Rockautoparts.com....other than the really expensive ones. Before replacing my bushings...my truck would wander all over the road whenever getting on or off the gas, or driving on uneven pavement. I was also not able to get a front end alignment done until the problem was fixed since the shop could not guarantee the suspension was 'square' for alignment purposes. -Chris

I changed my own brake master cylinder years ago and I sure as heck did NOT get one from a dealership at their rip off pricing. I either got it at Rock Auto or some supplier I can't remember but it was easy to install and has been fine for over 6 years now. Bleeding it (bench bleeding) was the only tricky part....then of course the system has to be bled after installing is done. I think I paid between $70 and $100 for the master cylinder. Dealerships are ok on some pricing and of course if only a genuine nissan part has to be used. I've been a rock auto parts customer for years now and never had any issues. Great delivery and they always send me updated catalogs on closeout parts for my pathfinder of which I have gotten some GREAT deals on. Just this week I ordered the last of their rear control arm bushings for only $14 each.

I was kinda hoping it was the cat....

It looks like its my TPS may be a bit squirrily, as it was idling today and I was checking things out....working the throttle body open and shut, it was running beautifully, so I started tapping on things with the handle of my screwdriver and if I tapped on the TPS much it would throw the idle up higher and get stuck there. Sometimes it would...sometimes it wouldn't It is a new one, so I loosened the two screws that hold it in place and did a slight rotation until it idled better and test drove it a couple miles stop and go driving and it seemed fine. So we'll see how it goes after a few days. When I unplugged the MAF sensor the engine died immediately. Is that a normal thing to happen if you unplug the MAF?

any ideas why then the idle would be so crappy after about a minute of starting (cold) until its warmer? practically everything has been replaced with new parts. also....the longer I drive it around town (5 speed tranny by the way) the more the idle wants to jump up to almost 2,000 rpm when taken out of gear. Sometimes I can even feel it do this when I am driving at a slower speed while in gear...its like feeling the engine start to 'pull more' when I am not giving it any more gas, or even starting to slow down....then I take it of gear and it races up to almost 2,000....then eases back down to where its normal and purrs like a kitten.

Rock Auto Parts has quite a few brands on closeout..... NTK, Beck Arnley, and Standard Motor Products...... ranging from $49.99 to about $60.00..... and $99.00 to $107 (bosch most expensive...) for regular stock. If mine is shot I'll probably go with one of the first three. I know getting one from my Nissan dealership around here will be $$$$

if I remember right....I got a Bosch one. thanks for the tips. I cleaned the MAF sensor already but I am still suspicious of how 'well' its actually performing since its the original, 20 years old now... Im thinking this could be why, for the first 30 seconds to a minute, the truck idles great when cold, then it turns to sh*tty sputtering idle, until its fully warmed up for the most part.... takes a few moments for the ECU to get a signal from the sensor??

I'm thinking that my O2 sensor may be fouled (from engine running a bit rich for a long time thanks to a bad temp sensor that has since been replaced) and causing my crappy idle while warming up in the mornings and maybe my often at times erratic idle jumping to almost 2,000 rpm and then settling back down to normal. O2 sensor is only about 3 years old.....and my ECU flashes "55" (normal) Does seem plausible for those symptoms...when most everything else is new or cleaned? thanks...just still trying to solve these issues.

I recently had this same issue...in my 1990 SE, left me stranded at a rest stop on I-95! Turned key, everything lit up, but not even a click at the starter. Finally started ONE LAST TIME and I made it home. we traced the problem to the black-with-yellow stripe wire that runs from the ignition switch to the back of the starter. There was voltage at the ignition switch, the harness along the steering column.....but NOT at the starter. So we ran a by pass wire from the harness at the steering column to the starter and bingo. Starts like a charm now. This trick however, also bypasses the clutch interlock so now I can start it in gear, if the moment of cluelessness ever strikes me. Saved me from buying a new starter or ignition switch or whatever. (we jumped the starter at the starter and it engaged so that proved the starter was still good) Take a volt meter to those points to see if they are getting voltage.

UPDATE: well ok maybe jumped the gun too soon....it ran fine UNTIL I test drove it this morning....after going about .5 miles, the idle jumped to just over 3,0000 rpm and now wants to stay there. out of gear, the engine is racing over 3,000 rpm and when in gear, its still running high as I can feel it pulling the truck along with out giving it any gas. Could this be caused by bypassing the clutch interlock switch on the clutch pedal somehow? neutral switch? Ok the fast idle was apparantly caused by the TPS. After resetting it the idle has pretty much returned to normal. Apparently after disconnecting the battery to replace the negative post clamp, it, or the ecu maybe, had to relearn its parameters. I tried the 'key on - hold gas pedal down for 5 sec...release...hold down...release...over and over a few times, then key off....wait....start engine. Idle was up and down for a few moments and then settled down to normal idle speed.

FIXED! with the help of my neighbor that is very knowledgeable with cars...we determined it was a fault somewhere along the line with the "black with yellow stripe" wire which leads from the ignition switch all the way to the starter. So rather that try to yank all that wire out of the car to find the problem spot, we just disconnected it and by-passed it with a new wire. Somehow this also disabled the clutch interlock switch (so it now starts even if the clutch is not depressed) but oh well. I'm not worried about that. It also leads us to speculate that the problem may have been with the clutch interlock switch itsself but maybe I'll look into that another day. For now, it starts and I'm happy I didn't run out and buy a new ignition switch or starter. -Chris

any ideas what the "Ignition Control Module" does? its the small grey colored sensor looking thing that is typically mounted on the side of the intake plenum, behind the Ignition Coil. ah I found an answer.... The "brain" of the ignition system, the Ignition control module controls the ignition timing and strength, as directed by the main computer. It can be located in a variety of places, but it can normally be found underneath the hood. also called the "ignitor" according to what I read wiki answers.

If the ignition switch is going bad, could it still partially operate? as in, cut on all the dash lights and stereo and such, but NOT send a signal to the starter? Nothing seems wrong with my wiring, yet when key is turned, everything seems to act normally but no current is sent to the starter. 1990 se..so I wouldn't be surprised if the ignition switch is suspect.....but I don't know how to test it. thanks, Chris

x3.... I use Valvoline 20w 50 (has zddp) and in my well worn engine....she runs just fine and quieter. 10w 30 will never ever be used again ....sounded like an old sewing machine LOL!! and I am not an advocate of those off-the-shelf so called oil additives. hell....Lucas is so thick it doesn't even pour from the bottle...you have to squeeze it out! I don't think so....

similar issue with my 1990 5 speed SE here....but its seems to be a lose or shorting out ignition wire under my dash....moved them around some...truck started....ran fine. This morning, no start again....so now I have the fun of looking for screwy wiring to see what the deal is....not that I am familiar with this ignition stuff. D'ohh.

it was installed professionally years ago..but I recently removed all the trailer-brake stuff since I dont tow any trailers and they were all piggybacked onto the brake wires and junk by god knows who....so thats probably what started it all...

been down this road already with my 1990 with 254,000+ miles on it. Replaced my noisy lifters (2 or 3 actually had visible damage to the tips...dont ask me how that happened...) and it was my first time doing this. One lifter got fried because I forgot the break in period or to use ZDDP additive (good luck finding it....thank you GOVERNMENT!) but Valvoline 20w-50 racing oil still has it in it and can be found on the shelf in most parts stores. Mine are quieter overall..still a tick every once in a while...but...given the age of the engine and mileage...it's good enough for me! and I did both right and left sides. Definitly take your time, size/fit each new lifter to the lifter block with plenty of oil...if one feels too tight in a certain lifter space...try it in another one until they all fit nice and smoothly and move freely with no sticking. Use tiny zip ties to hold them in the lifter block when removing and installing them. There are photos around here somewhere that illustrate this. Can be done in a day or less. Its not a rocket science project by any means....just be patient and definitly do the break in period (because I "oops!" forgot to) and you should be good to go. Order lifters from Akorahill here in the club. He works for nissan. Awesome helper! will need new plenum gasket for when you do the drivers side.....and new valve cover gaskets if needed. when I can afford it I plan on doing mine over again since I goofed a few steps (break in) but the engine still runs great and does not burn oil....just still a little noisy but I blame that on my impatience. of course any mechanic knows, or mechanic wanna-be...losen and tighten all bolts in the correct pattern and in 1/4 turn increments until all loose or tight, and follow torque specs when reinstalling...and keeping track of what bolts went where....(cardboard box works well for this) so they all go in the same places as they originally were. -Chris

This weekend my 1990 experienced a "no start" and left me stranded on I-95....turns out there is an apparent short in the ignition wires under my dash around/near the steering wheel column, and it interfears with the car stereo (when I turn the key, all the lights come on, and the stereo cuts on, then turns off...even if it was shut off manually). Something is interrupting the current to the starter. It's not the battery as it was replaced. When I realized the stereo issue....I reached up under the dash in the area more or less over the gas pedal where the wiring is and some relays....moved them around some...tried the key, nothing, reached up again and moved them around some more, turned key....truck fired up!! Finally able to finish my trip home from NC. Now this morning, its the same issue...no start, but power to everything else. I've never had to work with the ignition wires so I am not sure what color they are or which relays, if any under there, may relate to this issue. ps...I'm not the monkey that installed the stereo or any of the other junk like trailer braking system that used to be all under there. Thanks -Chris