Nice186
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Posts posted by Nice186
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I just installed some H.O.D bulbs and they are amazing!! Yes you read that right H.O.D not HIDs
http://oraclelights.com/automotive-lighting-products/ORACLE-HOD-Bulbs
Can be found cheaper on eBay... I bought mine for $18.99 and I'm loving them, much brighter then stock
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LMAFO!!!!
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Yeah mine is 94 so round it is and thanks for the code!!!
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ok so i am about to buy the parts off of rockauto and i see there are two different types of timing belts, one is square tooth and the other is round, whats the differents and which is better?
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You can change the thermostat without removing the timing belt cover. It's preference when you want to change it.
Having the rotor point to plug 1 and having the timing belt sprocket marks point to the valve covers at 45 degrees is more than enough for verifying TDC. Sticking something down there is optional unless you are doing something crazy.
Ok so the sprocket on the top left should point 45 degrees to the left and the right sprocket should point 45 degrees to the right. And the bottom sprocket should be lined up with the belt line right? Ok I'm still confused on the tightness part, I read over the manual and I still don't get it. Once you line up the lines to the new belt and all, you then tighten the tenser wheel till the belt is tight that you can flip it more the 90 degrees? Can I just used a wrench to tighten the tenser? Or do I need a special tool that shows how much pounds I put onto it?
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Surgery went well, I can't do anything till tomorrow afternoon. But when it comes around I will try to find the weep hose and check that out,
Also so when the balancer pulley (which is the bottom one right?) lines up with the mark on the belt and I check the rotor is on first gear, that means it tdc? Cause that's much easier then taking the first spark plug and sticking something in there to see if it compressed or not
I will read about the tension on the belt when I get home
Once again thanks all for the help
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Ok so I took my fan and shroud off to have a look at the bypass hose and thermostat housing and I do not see/feel any thing wet, I took some photos of it and ill upload them later as I'm going into surgery now and ill be knock out for a few hours(truck is apart on my driveway ATM)
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I would agree with everyone, if you are replacing the water pump than you should do the timing belt and thermostat as well. Was/is the truck running any hotter than normal lately?
No my truck is running fine within a 20-30 min drive it stays under the half mark between C and H
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I would do it your self, take your time, and if you have any problems/questions someone is always here to ask. But if the guy who gave you the $350 price is good and reliable than that is a good price.
The bolt looks like one of the engine block drains, there is one on each side of course.
Can't really tell where the leak is from the pics, you need to pull the shroud/ fan to be able to get in there closer, should be able to feel around use a dry paper towel to reach the back of the thermostat housing to see if the towel gets wet. As was already said it may not be the water pump could be the bypass hose or the thermostat housing leaking.
Ok we'll I'm gonna try and take the fan and shoud right now and see if it is a hose or the housing... If it is the hose or housing, would I still need to take the timing belt cover off? Or would I be able to change that stuff without touching the timing belt? Would make everything much easier
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OK first off i wanna say is THANK YOU ALL!!!!! for all of your replys!!! I cant say this more enough! you guys are really going indept and helping me understand.n
now i went outside (2am) haha and took a few more photos to make sure that this is the water pump and not a hose!
i am under my truck. engine is < and the fan/front of truck is >
that drip mark is where its leaking
another view
is that bolt the draining bolt? if so its not leaking from there.
ok so now thats out of the way, i now know it has to be the water pump
Now i found this awesome video that shows step by step of how to change thw water pump and timing belt off a 1994 nissan pick up v6 and this is the same engine as my 1994 pathfinder.
^ this video is 3 parts and this guy does a really good job showing how to do it
but the only thing im getting confused about is this guy didnt do the tdc and the part when he tightens the timing belt. i dont understand what he means when he puts it on 40 degrees and stuff.
to tell you guys the truth i felt much better of how to install the timing belt before i watched this video but now that i saw this i am afraid i might f$%k something up
the mechanic that said he will do it for $350 will get all his parts from pepboys or autozone (water pump, timing belt) is it worth it?
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That depends on the design of the engine. The Pathfinder VG uses the water pump body as a seal for the timing belt chamber so the water pump can only be taken off if you remove the timing belt. I have done this job and there's nothing to it. All you do is basically drain the coolant, remove the fan and shroud, remove the hoses, remove the balancer, and remove the timing belt cover. Before doing that though, don't forget to position the engine at intake TDC and not exhaust TDC. The rotor under the cap should point to spark plug 1. Then you can go ahead and loosen the tensioner and pop the timing belt off. Loosen the water pump bolts and remove the old water pump with your big hammer. Rub some sealant on the new water pump gasket and pop it back on. Be sure to put the timing belt on the right way with the proper tooth count between the sprockets. All the torque specs are in the FSM. When you put everything back together, just refill the coolant. Don't worry about opening the thermostat since this engine does not need to have its thermostat open to be refilled with coolant. The coolant will fill the engine through the return line in the intake manifold.
If you got any questions there's plenty of write ups here and don't hesitate to shoot me a message.
Thanks for this write up... You make it seem so easy!!! I saw a video on YouTube that the guy took the whole front end off to get to the belt but I guess you don't need to? Just the fan and the shroud? What balancer are you talking about? Also what do you mean by intake TDC and not exhaust TDC. What does tdc stand for? If the rotor isn't in the first gear position how do I make it first gear? When the truck is on park isn't it on first gear anyways? Should I just replace the thermostat anyway or I shouldn't even touch that?
Ok so this is what I understand so far once I take the fan, shroud and timing belt cover off, make sure it's on first gear by looking at the rotor, count how many tooths are between the timing belt. Then loosing it and take that off, unbolt the water pump. Put the new pump in with the gasket and add sealant so it's on tight. Then slide in the new belt on, make sure the tooths are the right amount and pretty much put everything back in... Also drain the coolant first... Now tell me if there's anything I missed cause this sounds too easy. I know once I do it it's gonna feel different haha... I'm really thinking about buying the part now off of rockauto and give this a shot and save $300 as the parts only cost $50-$60
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if you have know idea were the timing belt is located, wether, inside or outside the engine, then please dont replace it your self have at least a mechanic buddy there and supply him with beer, i am not tryn to be a a****le i"m just saying that you could do some searious damage to your engine if you make a mistake while replaceing the timing belt, cause you have to remove it when you replace the water pump you might as well change the thermostat cause that is probably wat caused the water pump to fail in the first place, that is if it is the water pump. but from the pic it looks like to me it could just be the t-stat housing, how many miles does it have?
My truck as of now has 78k and also I got a quote from a friends step dad that has a shop for $350 to replace the water pump and timing belt.... It's much cheaper then what I thought.. I have a surgery tomorrow and I'm gonna be out of work and school till Monday... I'm thinking if I read the how to's change the timing belt over and over again I might do it myself since I have a lot of free time this weekend now... I don't have the book of my truck (94 pathfinder xe-v6) but how many tooths are between the belt? Are they counting the wells?
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I myself never did a timing belt before. Do I need any special tools? I'm asking this because the way my father is telling sounds like its really difficult to do, then again maybe on these older trucks its easier?
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Thing is I'm tight on cash and the if I take it to the shop for the timing belt they will charge me $500+ for just the belt!! Is the belt outside or inside the engine? If there is a water pump weep hose would that be hanging anywhere where I can see it? Would it leak a lot of coolant? Is that normal or should I replace that hose?(weep hose)
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no that weep hole is for the ac and its dry
right where im pointing is where its leaking on that disk
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ok i just got back from class and my truck drove fine now i walked outside and saw green coolant leaking under my truck, took my skid plate off to see where its coming from, no hoses are leaking but its leaking right under the alternature. can it be that the water pump is gone? i turn my engine on and it starts leaking again and in the same spot
here is a photo
is this hard to replace oneself? how much is this part? is it just worth it to take it to a shop and have them install it? this is my daily driver so i need this truck. thanks for the help guys
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no the ones i was talking about were these
i dont like the square lights and that light bar looks ugly to me haha
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oh sorry thats what i meant haha thanks for that info
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what are the benefits of having a chrome one vs. non chromes? besides the rusting... is it possible to paint the pipe black with heat resistant paint? or would that be a bad idea?
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Thanks alot for the photos and video. now i see that it doesnt seem that hard to install pretty much looks like the u bolt, bolts in on a hole that is already there which makes it much easier then needing to drill a hole!! and do you still have the stock cat on?! i think before i even install this i will have to replace my 18 year old cat haha. maybe with a magaflow one? thanks again for the photos and video!
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thanks for the info really helped me out. yes i still have the stock steering stabilizer, what brand would be good to replace these as well? i will get the rancho as i heard only good things from them and i will check my bump stops in the morning to see if they are destoryed or good haha thanks man!
also i dont know if this will change what you said but my truck came stock with 235/75/15 tires so the 31x10.5s are not stock. at least not on my truck that is and i had to trim my fenders a bit to get them to clear when i took sharp turns
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Also I'm running the stock shocks, what would you guys recommend on aftermarket shocks for our trucks? Thanks for the help guys
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Hi I'm just learning as of now what bumps stops are. What size would be the best for the front and what would be the best for the rear... From watching a few videos I see that bump stops are on the shocks what are the upper and lower your talking about? And the rears are rectangle shapes? Maybe the videos I saw we're all for cars haha, anyone care to inform me a little on bump stops for our trucks? Idk if this would help but I'm in stock height with 31's and I never touched the bump stops. So I think it's time to change them
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i just connected my radio antenna to my cb so i dont have to figure out where to put a huge antenna somewhere haha it works good to me... downfall is i only get like maybe a mile lol but i only use it when i go offroading with friends and they arent a mile away from me just a few hundred feet!
Headlights
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I'm sorry I didn't read the whole article on that page the h.o.ds I got didn't have a pigtail it was just a direct plug in
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=330674820312&index=0&nav=SEARCH&nid=40771382555
This is the one I got.... Yes I know it's made by china or whatever but I wanted to try it out... At the end it's better then my stock, may not be the best but at least I have pure white vs. piss yellow headlights haha