RF600
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Posts posted by RF600
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I don't understand why different spray patterns exist. An injector has 1 job. Why complicate things by making 3 different ones? Oh yeah, we are engineer's and we can.
Well I will use what I can find and report back.
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I've read that they should match, and I know that the nozzle on the bottom of the blue dots looks different than the nozzle on the black dots. That said, my '93 has a black dot on #2 and blues everywhere else and runs just fine. The old plugs showed no mixture issues on that cylinder. I suspect the difference between the blue dot and the black dot is more about spray pattern than flow rate but that's just a guess.
That's what I'm thinking. I doubt there would be a difference in flow rates. Most of the replacements I have seen list the oem number and the replacement number. The replacement numbers are the same for both colors.
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My trip to pick and pull was disappointing. I didn't want to pull the intake so I was hoping I could find enough injectors to replace all of them. I have black dots and all I found was blue. I didn't pull any because I couldn't find 6 of them. Either they had really corroded terminals or the ohm test failed. I did find a couple other things I needed though.
I'm going to hopefully find a matching one. If not, I guess I will buy a set.
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Well it looks like the injector for cylinder 2 is out of spec when I did an OHM reading. I can't tell what color is on the injectors. It's either blue or black. I tried wiping off some dirt with my finger and the colored dot came right off.
From what I have found the dot represents flow rate. I just can't seem to find out what the flow rates are.
If it comes down to replacing all of the injectors, will it matter if a different color injector replaces the other? I will keep them all the same color.
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I checked the codes. 34, 51. The knock sensor is still there. Now I need to find some time to check out my injectors. I would assume the knock sensor is a result of a bad injector(s)?
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My first question is have you checked to see the contact points of the bendix to the ring gear? That would be the first place I would look. Even if the starters look the same or are supposedly the same. Start with the easy stuff first.
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I bought a clutch kit from nissan. At first I thought something was wrong. The pedal was really light. I felt like I was going to put foot through the floor when I depressed the pedal. After driving it for a while I have adjusted to the lack of pressure. My guess is most clutches, besides racing clutches, are going to be soft depending on who manufacturers it. Maybe it's nothing?
If you still feel it is too soft have you tried to reverse bleed it? From the bottom up. I have had to do that on a couple different vehicles before. Worth a shot.
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Vacuum lines are good. Today it started and ran really rough. The check engine light came on. The engine light turned off after a couple minutes. I wasn't around my place so I will hope it is stored in the ecu until I can pull the code and see if that will direct me what to look at next.
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The O2 is new. So the wiring up to where it plugs into the harness is good. I have not checked the voltage of the O2. I had to put a new O2 in because it failed smog last year. My assumption is the O2 is working properly since it passed easily after installing. I have not checked it though.
As far as I know the fuel cap is original. I will look at the vacuum lines around the canister. The vacuum lines around the engine are good. I have inspected and changed out some bad ones.
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So I am having a cutting out issue. When it acts up the check engine light does not come on. There doesn't seem to be a specific time when it does it. No specific throttle input. Nothing I can pinpoint to a certain time when it will do it. While driving it will cut out. Usually only for a couple seconds. Then it picks right back up. Even with the cruise control on it will do it. It will do it while driving around town. Sometimes it will die while sitting at a stop light. There is no rough idle, it just idles down and dies. It will start right back up. A couple times it didn't want to run when started. I had to keep my foot on the gas for a bit, then it would idle on its own.
A little history on my rig. Within the last 10,000 miles I have done the following, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, iac valve, iac controller, O2 sensor, coolant temp switch.
I did pull 2 codes, 33 and 34. Since it cuts out at random I'm at a loss for where to look.
I have not checked the injectors or fuel pressure.
Ideas
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You can do it by sliding the trans/xfer case back. The 2 are very heavy. Tranny jack would help a lot.
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I would go with fuel injection, not carbed. Drop a LS engine in there. Should get decent mileage.
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I'm not telling you to use the rubber you have. The 1/16" longer shouldn't matter. There should be plenty of threads in the strut rod to compensate for the extra length.
Honestly, I would buy poly bushings for that spot. They see a lot of road grime and get worked really hard. The poly shouldn't wear out. It shouldn't let the wheel move around much, if at all.
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It sounds like the teeth are off on the belt. You can reset the dizzy to compensate. Does it work, sure. Is it proper? I will let you answer that.
I'm not trying to be a jerk. If you take it to a shop they will not be very happy when things don't work properly. I assume you had to put the plug wire of the timing light on a different wire?
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I'm now a bit over 232000. Hopefully I can get another 200+ out of the old girl.
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If you are taking apart the switch be very careful if you have a window lock button. What makes the button stay down when pushed is a small steel ball. I have a switch at home that I couldn't get the window lock to work properly after the ball fell out. I put the ball back in and it doesn't work properly.
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The larger companies like that seem to have bad customer service. Although customer service in general seems to suck from everyone. I have ordered from Rock Auto in the past and have had no problems. I usually won't order from them or the other whores like that. All they care about is moving products.
I try to keep my money local if possible.
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This is a great forum board. There are plenty that are horrible. I'm sure all of us have been on a bad forum or 2.
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I bought a stock replacement at my local Napa store. When you replace the radiator I would recommend hoses also if you have not done then recently.
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I think 194 is too bright for the cluster? If you do put 194's in, you can dim it. I want to say the bulbs are 158?
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Bahaaaaa
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That rig looks familiar.
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What won on Sunday, sells on Monday. Most of you will know that quote.
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You can still find a good sender at the wreckers. I would look first before having to spend the money for a new part.
Your other issue could be a vacuum leak?
Can't this be made?
in The Garage
Posted
Actually removing the exhaust isn't too bad. Unless you have rust to deal with.